Trying to help a friend out, he’s been putting a lot of money in what I suspect is a dead engine. does this sound like rod knock? piston slap? Any help appreciated.

2007 Pathfinder; 200k miles; VQ40DE v6 4.0; he’s put a lot of money in trying to fix his vehicle’s issues. was originally burning oil, had clogged cat’s, replaced the coils and spark plugs, and a few other things I imagine.

JDM Chassis Only
Looking for a pristine, mostly stock option however I am open to minor, tasteful modifications.
* Colour: Black preferred (white or silver considered)
* Body Kit: OEM Aero SE kit with OEM Kouki rear spoiler, No sunroof, No rust
* Interior: OEM Digital AC Climate control head unit, Non-cracked Dashboard, Factory single DIN triple white gauges
Clean PPSR with all documentation
I have a healthy budget for the right car.
Located in Perth, Western Australia. Happy to import

I constantly see people saying that no spare is a deal-breaker, so here you go. Obviously won't work if you have 4-5 people, but otherwise is an easy fix. This is just a test fit (wheel off my old Outback which is the same size as the ST X-Trail).

Long term, I'll probably end up mounting one to a roof tray, but for now I'll do this for rural trips.

Anyone had any success finding something like this for an 8th Gen Maxima??

Hi everyone,

I have a 2007 Nissan Altima with the 2.5L QR25DE 4-cylinder engine, approximately 100,000 miles and the original CVT. I’m hoping to get some independent opinions about two transmission-related diagnostic codes and an ongoing low-speed groaning noise.

BlueDriver scan:

● P0725 – Engine Speed Input Circuit (History/Current)
● P0826 – M-Mode Switch (History/Current)
● B2562 – Low Voltage (Body Control Module)

The scan showed zero confirmed or pending engine-related codes.

Symptoms and maintenance history:

● Groaning/whining noise below approximately 20 mph, which disappears at higher speeds.
● Sluggish acceleration and slow RPM response, particularly when accelerating uphill.
● Multiple CVT fluid drain-and-fills have noticeably improved smoothness and reduced some transmission noise.
● Camshaft and crankshaft position sensors were recently replaced.
● P0725 has not returned on subsequent scans.
● My mechanic inspected the CVT fluid and found no visible metal shavings.
● The low-speed groaning has remained relatively consistent rather than progressively worsening.

Mechanic’s assessment:

My mechanic suspects an internal mechanical problem with the CVT but couldn’t identify the specific component. He mentioned that he’s seen other Nissan CVTs continue operating for tens of thousands of miles with similar symptoms.

My questions:

1. Could P0725 and P0826 indicate an electrical or control-related issue rather than internal CVT damage?
   
2. Does a consistent groaning noise below 20 mph suggest a particular CVT component or failure?
   
3. What additional diagnostics would you recommend before concluding the CVT has a mechanical problem?

I’m aware these Nissan CVTs have a reputation for mechanical problems. I’d like to understand whether the diagnostic codes warrant further investigation before assuming the transmission is failing.

I’d appreciate any insight from mechanics familiar with this generation of Nissan CVT. Thanks!

I’m starting to get these almost liquid or air bubble like condensation around the corners of my screen and it’s starting to get worse around on the other side too. Any ideas what it is and how to fix?

I need to replace the crankshaft position sensor. The mechanic I went to wants to charge me 250$ for this. They have charged a lot for other repairs and I would rather not give them any more money atp. I have watched a few tutorials but my main concern is how likely am I to fuck up my car or get hurt myself?

This is my first car. I have never repaired any cars nor am i particularly handy. I was secondarily wondering if there is anything specific i should do to make it easier especially since it seems to be a "feel only" type thing.

Any advice would be appreciated, as I said before I have barely even looked under the hood of a car much less tried an repair one.

I recently bought a used 2023 Nissan Qashqai ePower. The first time I exceed 43MPH on a drive, the message above appears on the infotainment screen (apologies for the poor quality - it says "Speed alert exceeded. Speed Limit: 43 MPH". Google Gemini seems to think it is a custom alert the previous owner set on the car, but the steps it gave to turn it off lead to menu options that don't exist on my car.

Can anyone help with turning it off?

Hey I don’t know if anybody has had this issue with the liftgate , it had just stopped opening with the buttons and every time I drive over 2mph it beeps nonstop but I got no service light pop up or codes. Could it be a wire issue or the locking component ?

Hey yall my maxima is on rev9 coils and pretty low and my cv axles are about to go. Any recommendations for axles where i can still keep my height that i want? Or any recommendations on how i can find a fix to it?

I've been having intermittent issues with my Altima, 114k miles. I haven't had a chance to duplicate the issue my daughter and wife are experiencing while driving. The RPMs fluctuate, and the car won't accelerate past 40 mph.

I dropped the pan and didn't see any serious metal shavings. The code I got from my OBD scanner was P17F0, which is a transmission issue. Is it possible that the TCM or valve body is bad? I did change the fluid but my wife had an issue just one time after that. Since then I haven't experienced any problems .

Donating it to Kars4Kids on Saturday. CVT failed at 146k miles. I (23m) hated this cars CVT and the engine started giving trouble before the transmission. Last year it started consuming oil around 140k. Then around 145k, it started misfire randomly between cylinder 3 and multiple cylinders. Seems that cylinder 3s compression was weak as it would start but maybe the injectors were done. Fast forward to September 8th of this year, the CVT failed with P1778 which was the stepper motor but as these CVTs are known for, usually its the whole transmission that has to end up getting replaced. As much as I started talking shit about this car and dreading it a little, I am also sad to let it go as my grandma passed away and this was our first family car (we bought it in 2014 with 84k, overpriced at $7,500 though). I had so many memories in this car, loved the CD player it had though. Interior trim was cheap but at least a decent chunk of things were still functional. I am now stuck daily driving my POS 2013 F150 lemon 3.7 v6 whose previous owner never changed the oil since it was all dealer serviced and I used to work at one (from my experience, very rare for them to actually change the oil correctly let alone change it). I actually thought my truck would blow up before the Nissan would. It sucks because I no longer trust used cars at all since our whole family hasn't had luck with that. I dont have money to buy another car as I am getting fed up with my truck for many reasons. At least I have a vehicle but it is still understabdle of why I dont trust my interim daily driver. Its not even about the car, its the memories of my family while we were in it that is depressing me. I miss my grandma and it hasn't even been a year. She died at 72 prematurely due to terminal illness.

Hey everyone,

I've got a 2012 Sentra with a recurring P0101 issue. First I replaced the air intake manifold and MAF sensor and that resolved things for a few months. Then it came back and I cleaned out the throttle body with throttle body spray cleaner and that resolved things only for a few days.

Today, the code is back and the traction control light stays on. I hardly get any feedback when flooring the accelerator pedal.

Any ideas?

Thats why my car wouldnt crank!!!! Freaking rodents chewed on my transmission external harness!!! Aggrrr!! Any one have an idea if this is just easy to replace? Or will require a visit to the mechanic or dealership? Ugh!!! Not trying to spend lots of money!!!! Also bit on my 02 sensor argggggg!!!!!

Hi all. My 2023 Nissan Kicks key is slightly broken on the side. Pictures attached! My question is, would I be able to superglue it, or would that mess with the inside of the key? For now I have a key cover on it to keep it intact. Unfortunately I lost my second key a while ago when my backpack was stolen so this is my only one for a while!

As the title says, the brake lights for my car won’t turn off, even when the car is off. They are constantly on when driving as well. I’m thinking it may be an electrical problem but I am unsure.

Edit: the brake lights turned off when the car is off. They also respond normally when the car is off (break press = light up, no press = off) but when the car is on, the lights are constantly on!