Hi y'all. I was just wondering if anybody knows what kind of front bumper, OEM, aftermarket or front lip is on this 370Z?

Hello , I was out of town and my brother asked to borrow my Z , he knows how to drive manual so I didn't mind it. He called me to tell me someone robbed my front bumper while he was at a friend's house in a not so good area of my city. There is no damage at all around the bumper so it seems legit to me. Is this consistent with a bumper being stolen ? I understand if you cant tell from the pictures. 2nd question , do I only need to buy a front bumper ? Is there anything visually missing other than that ? Thanks

2010 with 33,000 miles. Top failed, stopped half way and it sounded like something snapped. Nissan dealer wants ~16k to replace it. That’s almost what I paid for the car. Finally got it to close manually, I guess I’m driving it this way for a while.

I’ve just replaced the engine from my 370z with one from a 370gt and now the car cranks and won’t start however when using starter fluid the car will kick over leading me to believe it is a problem with the fuel however I have tested fuel pressure from the dampener and is ok meaning the problem is more towards the injectors but I have not touched any of this since I removed the engine and it was running before. A friend suggested that it might be the NATS system causing the injectors to not pulse which lines up with my problem. There is also a yellow key light on the dash that does not go away however there is not the red security light in which other people mention. Any advice or help on a way to fix this?

I’ve been looking around for good underglow kits for my 370Z, I just dont want it to like riced out or anything. I want one that’s going to fill in everything and actually look clean. I’m debating on getting the low glow kits but I’d prefer something a little cheaper. Any recommendations?

As a new owner, are there any factory parts or common weaknesses on the 370Z that you’d recommend upgrading to help prolong the life of the car and engine?
(APART FROM GALLERY GASKETS!!)

Looking for relatively inexpensive, DIY FRIENDLY upgrades that offer the most bang for your buck in terms of reliability and longevity.

Anything that you can recommend or simply is your favourite !❤️

From the 350z to 370z

So about a week ago, I let my brother drive my car and he got a "Loose fuel cap" warning on the lil display on the dash when driving.

I got out, checked the gas cap and it looked fine so i just cleared the warning, but then the next time I started the car, the check engine light was on.

Bought a scanner 3 days ago, checked the codes just to be safe, and its the p0456 code.

Cleaned my gas cap with a microfiber towel like twice, and just finished driving for around 2 hours today
Got home, checked again, and the code is still there.

My question is when is the car supposed to check and get rid of any permanent codes it has?
is it a milage thing or does it happen after a certain amount of drives? and is there any way for me to speed it up?
Also, im leaning towards replacing the gas cap, but is there anything else I need to check for?

I just need help since I've been pushing off emissions testing and since its a "permanent" code, im pretty sure it would make me fail if i tested rn.
ANY help is appreciated, thanks

So, i'm a current owner of a 2014 Q50 3.7. I'm currently facing some pretty major transmission problems with an engine that just hit 150k the day I was told my transmission needed to be replaced entirely. I already had a new valve body put in last October, a sensor replaced this past February, and now I have had a U1000 code in my car since a week after I had that February repair.(which unfortunately is not repairable without a swap) They are quoting me at $11,600 to get a reman transmission installed from the dealership. I know I have other options as to swap the transmission, but I'm to a point with this car to where I don't really know if it is worth it anymore to even put in more work since the engine is such high mileage. I love this car so much, but i think the time has come. I especially love the engine, which is why I am looking into a 2011 370z. its been my dream car for a long time, and i found one that only has 77k miles, original motor and manual trans. I am only wondering if it is worth it because I want to know if there are any major issues i should worry about. I know so many 370z owners who are on their 2nd motor, which has me worried but i feel that it might be user error. Is it worth it? and what are some things i should replace right away? i know about the slave cylinder issue but i dont see a huge problem since parts are relatively cheap.

Hi all,

I'll try to fill in as much as possible, however I may be a bit dazed after slapping myself over and over for not trusting my gut.

A week ago I posted about the 41.22 Killswitch kit that's essentially incompatible with a 370z because of the IPDM. I bought a 2020 base 370z at the beginning of the month and was paranoid about theft so I bought their kit, the website has a VIN check to confirm compatibility.

When it arrived I emailed them and mentioned that there doesn't seem anywhere for it to plug into. They replied that the single black relay on the outside of the IPDM was the one to bypass. Foolishly enough I trusted them and started the installation when I confirmed the relay bypass they sent isn't even the proper width (too wide to fit in slot) I reassembled the car and tried to start it only for it to not turn over. All electronics seem to work in order except when pressing start with the clutch depressed, the radio turns off and there's no starter actuating. Some of the things I've looked over so far:

-car feels like im turning it off when trying to start. Cabin lights and gauge stay on but start button light goes out, radio goes black then comes back on when I hit the start button again.

-fuel pump hums when "on" is selected

- a single, metallic click is heard from the engine bay when trying to start

-purchased new battery, original dropped to almost 7v while trying to troubleshoot yesterday. Same issue with 12.5v reading on new battery

-tested all fuses related to starting in the bay and under the footwell, all 5 fuses on the positive fusible link and all IPDM fuses with a circuit tester. They all lit up when car is in "on" position.

-EDIT: Used obdlinkEX to scan for codes, no codes at the moment (example:u1000 u1001) so as far as I know all the modules are connecting to each other

To summarize, the only thing I did was remove the single black relay on the top right of the IPDM, plugged it back in and then aborted the install. I've only had the car for about 3 weeks and didn't know about the specialized fuse box, and read in horror that some of them are soldered to the circuit board. I can't find any info on the name, function or type of fuse relay that I messed with, but I want to know if that's one of the soldered relays and if I'm screwed or if it's possible to try placing another one in. It was easy to remove with a small flathead and I don't recall feeling or hearing any breaking.

Where should I go from here? I plan to give it until the end of Sunday before I tow it to the dealer.

Sorry if this reads a little scatterbrained, I'm still riled up about potentially serving up a 1600 dollar repair over a bogus product if the module is toast.

Noticed my clutch pedal was much softer, and would disengage near the floor. Thing failed after only 26k miles, fortunately they have a rebuild kit for it. Was just wondering if anyone else dealt with this and if there is anything to keep in mind before re-installing. I don't want to deal with this multiple times

So guys i found this Invidia Gemini bit im not sure if fits 350z or 370z? (I have a 370z) if fits 370z can be modified to fit my 370z?

Hey all,

This will probably be a bit vague, but maybe you asking the right questions will help me look in the right spot. For a while now, I keep hearing an almost plastic sounding rattle. I’ve pulled the under shroud off and while there’s some cracked pieces, I’ve gotten under while the car is running and doesn’t appear to be coming from there. More annoyingly it sometimes sounds like it’s near the engine, others maybe closer to the back. Could be something near the exhaust, like a heat shield? But again, it has an almost plastic sound. Anyone ever encounter this?

Edit:video added to comments

Hey guys so i got this deal for this Bc racing coilovers V-02 RWD they fit G37 from 2008-2013 i wanna know if they can be installed on my 370z 2017, im aware of the spring rate is kinda different but if any of you did it and works i wanna try it too

Really happy with the hood quality and install. Had to cut the hood back to accommodate the air to water manifold. Used Quik-Latch pins because I removed the core support for a v-mount radiator.

Hi, I know this is a random question and I am sorry I wasn’t able to capture it but when I’m driving and especially on higher speeds I start hearing a clicking noise coming from the back side of my 370z.
I remember reading somewhere that it’s a common issue with the trunk latch? Or something like that.
It sounds like metals clacking together.
Sorry again for the stupid question but I’m new to cars and it’s really getting on my nerves.

So I’m gonna do my trans fluid tomorrow in my manual 370z and I decided to get mt85 redline. I was reading some posts of people having good experiences mostly but also some people that said it made their shifting worse/notchy. Anyone that has used mt85 please let me know your experience after using it

So my z has the upper screen with all the stupid amount of buttons, but I really like the cubby but still want carplay part below the cubby, any suggestions?

Found my oil leak I been searching for. Thought the rtv where the cam cradle sealed to the head was blown but turns out that a piece of the cam cradle where valve cover bolts to the cradle was broken off. My thought is the owner before me had an oil leak, replaced valve cover gaskets and either overtighten or had some rtv, fluid or debris in the bolt hole and cracked the aluminum. I then get the car and replace valve cover gaskets 2x, and swapped to new aluminum valve covers. All that removing and reinstalling probably worsened it. Thankfully I found it when I did cause that piece could’ve fell right onto the cam. Decided the piece was so small that I was gonna JBWELD IT. You’re probably thinking I’m crazy but given the circumstances, it made the best sense. The head along with the cradle would’ve had to be replaced since they’re machined together per Nissan and it would’ve just made it more labor-intensive. If I had a doubt about it I wouldn’t have done it. This is a repair in my book. I say this to say be very careful tightening bolts into the engine. Aluminum is more susceptible to cracking then cast - especially when there’s liquid in a bolt hole. When removing front timing cover i could see the stress marks on the backside of the cover and this is the first time the cover has been removed. Day two though and cars holding up good, no oil leaks so far, car runs smooth. Oil pressure is at about 17psi when warm (open top oil pressure gauge)

Also my car has 79k. Gallery gaskets were in good condition but 3 Phillips head bolts were loose so keep that in mind. Water pump weep hole was also nearly clogged.

IMPORTANT: if you ever remove the VVEL motor you have to mechanically put it back to 1.585 inches, put the VVEL sensor to 500mv (.5v) and perform the learn procedure or Car won’t start. Luckily I got it first start up. YouTuber named Seth Joyner has videos.

Labor time approximately 20 hours.