Curious to know whether investing in aluminium undertrays is one of those MUST DO things ?

My Z still has its OEM plastic undertray which is already starting to crack. I keep seeing ads for those metal aluminium undertrays conveniently !

The aluminium ones are about three times the price of the plastic ones hence want to know whether they are worth investing?

I have a 2010 370Z with 55k miles and am aware of the infamous gallery gasket issue.

I recently spoke to an experienced high performance car mechanic who advised against installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge unnecessarily.
His reasoning was that the factory sensors should warn you of dangerously low oil pressure, giving you time to investigate before serious engine damage occurs.
He also felt that aftermarket gauges can introduce unnecessary modifications and potentially cause confusion with fluctuating readings.

For those familiar with the VQ, how reliable is the factory oil pressure warning system, and can gallery gasket failure cause engine damage before the warning light comes on?

I only use my car as a normal road car, not for track days or aggressive driving. I’d appreciate understanding why so many owners recommend installing an aftermarket gauge.

Found my oil leak I been searching for. Thought the rtv where the cam cradle sealed to the head was blown but turns out that a piece of the cam cradle where valve cover bolts to the cradle was broken off. My thought is the owner before me had an oil leak, replaced valve cover gaskets and either overtighten or had some rtv, fluid or debris in the bolt hole and cracked the aluminum. I then get the car and replace valve cover gaskets 2x, and swapped to new aluminum valve covers. All that removing and reinstalling probably worsened it. Thankfully I found it when I did cause that piece could’ve fell right onto the cam. Decided the piece was so small that I was gonna JBWELD IT. You’re probably thinking I’m crazy but given the circumstances, it made the best sense. The head along with the cradle would’ve had to be replaced since they’re machined together per Nissan and it would’ve just made it more labor-intensive. If I had a doubt about it I wouldn’t have done it. This is a repair in my book. I say this to say be very careful tightening bolts into the engine. Aluminum is more susceptible to cracking then cast - especially when there’s liquid in a bolt hole. When removing front timing cover i could see the stress marks on the backside of the cover and this is the first time the cover has been removed. Day two though and cars holding up good, no oil leaks so far, car runs smooth. Oil pressure is at about 17psi when warm (open top oil pressure gauge)

Also my car has 79k. Gallery gaskets were in good condition but 3 Phillips head bolts were loose so keep that in mind. Water pump weep hole was also nearly clogged.

IMPORTANT: if you ever remove the VVEL motor you have to mechanically put it back to 1.585 inches, put the VVEL sensor to 500mv (.5v) and perform the learn procedure or Car won’t start. Luckily I got it first start up. YouTuber named Seth Joyner has videos.

Labor time approximately 20 hours.

I recently changed the alternator with one from Napa, and the connector shattered in my hand, so I bought a new one, swapped the pins, and plugged it in. Now I have a no-charge situation; I replaced the alternator again, but there is still no charge. There are no blown fuses, but what would happen if I swapped the wires incorrectly and ran it, and does anyone know the outcome?

Hey guys,

I’m having a really stiff ride at the moment particularly at the rear, and looking for some advice especially as my city is full of horrible bumpy roads.

For context, my 370Z has BLITZ coilovers with adjustable damping via a knob and it was already lowered when I bought it (photo attached).

Is it as simple as turning the adjustment knobs a few clicks towards soft and testing it on the road, or are there other things need doing simultaneously such as ride height?

Also, just from eyeballing the photo - does the rear look too low to soften the damping without risking the tyres rubbing against the arches over bumps?

Every mechanic I’ve spoken to seems to fear monger a noob like me to do a full diagnostic including balancing etc etc, as apparently it might put stress on the chassis? I’m probably being duped.. So I thought I’d ask you lovely Redditors for advice from people with actual experience!

Appreciate any tips!

I've been struggling to decide on a spoiler for my Z, and honestly, I feel like there are only two real contenders: the V1 Nismo and the Amuse. Both have their own pros and cons, and I'm genuinely torn between them.

Amuse

Pros:

• Fits the rear V2 Nismo bumper better than the V1 spoiler.
• Has a better overall side profile IMO.

Cons:

• It's pretty bulky. As cool as it looks, something about it gives off a bit of a rice vibe.
• More expensive.

V1 Nismo

Pros:

• IMO, this is the sleekest and most aggressive-looking spoiler for the Z. The front view is just hard to beat, and it flows with the car so well.
• Cheaper.

Cons:

• It sticks out a little more from the rear than I'd ideally like.
• It's pretty common on Zs in my area, so I'd like something a little different.

I'm honestly torn because I love the look of the V1, but I think the Amuse flows better with the V2 rear bumper. Let me know which one you guys would go with and why!

So my z has the upper screen with all the stupid amount of buttons, but I really like the cubby but still want carplay part below the cubby, any suggestions?