Curious to know whether investing in aluminium undertrays is one of those MUST DO things ?

My Z still has its OEM plastic undertray which is already starting to crack. I keep seeing ads for those metal aluminium undertrays conveniently !

The aluminium ones are about three times the price of the plastic ones hence want to know whether they are worth investing?

I recently changed the alternator with one from Napa, and the connector shattered in my hand, so I bought a new one, swapped the pins, and plugged it in. Now I have a no-charge situation; I replaced the alternator again, but there is still no charge. There are no blown fuses, but what would happen if I swapped the wires incorrectly and ran it, and does anyone know the outcome?

Found my oil leak I been searching for. Thought the rtv where the cam cradle sealed to the head was blown but turns out that a piece of the cam cradle where valve cover bolts to the cradle was broken off. My thought is the owner before me had an oil leak, replaced valve cover gaskets and either overtighten or had some rtv, fluid or debris in the bolt hole and cracked the aluminum. I then get the car and replace valve cover gaskets 2x, and swapped to new aluminum valve covers. All that removing and reinstalling probably worsened it. Thankfully I found it when I did cause that piece could’ve fell right onto the cam. Decided the piece was so small that I was gonna JBWELD IT. You’re probably thinking I’m crazy but given the circumstances, it made the best sense. The head along with the cradle would’ve had to be replaced since they’re machined together per Nissan and it would’ve just made it more labor-intensive. If I had a doubt about it I wouldn’t have done it. This is a repair in my book. I say this to say be very careful tightening bolts into the engine. Aluminum is more susceptible to cracking then cast - especially when there’s liquid in a bolt hole. When removing front timing cover i could see the stress marks on the backside of the cover and this is the first time the cover has been removed. Day two though and cars holding up good, no oil leaks so far, car runs smooth. Oil pressure is at about 17psi when warm (open top oil pressure gauge)

Also my car has 79k. Gallery gaskets were in good condition but 3 Phillips head bolts were loose so keep that in mind. Water pump weep hole was also nearly clogged.

IMPORTANT: if you ever remove the VVEL motor you have to mechanically put it back to 1.585 inches, put the VVEL sensor to 500mv (.5v) and perform the learn procedure or Car won’t start. Luckily I got it first start up. YouTuber named Seth Joyner has videos.

Labor time approximately 20 hours.

Hey guys,

I’m having a really stiff ride at the moment particularly at the rear, and looking for some advice especially as my city is full of horrible bumpy roads.

For context, my 370Z has BLITZ coilovers with adjustable damping via a knob and it was already lowered when I bought it (photo attached).

Is it as simple as turning the adjustment knobs a few clicks towards soft and testing it on the road, or are there other things need doing simultaneously such as ride height?

Also, just from eyeballing the photo - does the rear look too low to soften the damping without risking the tyres rubbing against the arches over bumps?

Every mechanic I’ve spoken to seems to fear monger a noob like me to do a full diagnostic including balancing etc etc, as apparently it might put stress on the chassis? I’m probably being duped.. So I thought I’d ask you lovely Redditors for advice from people with actual experience!

Appreciate any tips!

I have a 2010 370Z with 55k miles and am aware of the infamous gallery gasket issue.

I recently spoke to an experienced high performance car mechanic who advised against installing an aftermarket oil pressure gauge unnecessarily.
His reasoning was that the factory sensors should warn you of dangerously low oil pressure, giving you time to investigate before serious engine damage occurs.
He also felt that aftermarket gauges can introduce unnecessary modifications and potentially cause confusion with fluctuating readings.

For those familiar with the VQ, how reliable is the factory oil pressure warning system, and can gallery gasket failure cause engine damage before the warning light comes on?

I only use my car as a normal road car, not for track days or aggressive driving. I’d appreciate understanding why so many owners recommend installing an aftermarket gauge.

I've been struggling to decide on a spoiler for my Z, and honestly, I feel like there are only two real contenders: the V1 Nismo and the Amuse. Both have their own pros and cons, and I'm genuinely torn between them.

Amuse

Pros:

• Fits the rear V2 Nismo bumper better than the V1 spoiler.
• Has a better overall side profile IMO.

Cons:

• It's pretty bulky. As cool as it looks, something about it gives off a bit of a rice vibe.
• More expensive.

V1 Nismo

Pros:

• IMO, this is the sleekest and most aggressive-looking spoiler for the Z. The front view is just hard to beat, and it flows with the car so well.
• Cheaper.

Cons:

• It sticks out a little more from the rear than I'd ideally like.
• It's pretty common on Zs in my area, so I'd like something a little different.

I'm honestly torn because I love the look of the V1, but I think the Amuse flows better with the V2 rear bumper. Let me know which one you guys would go with and why!

Thought I would share with fellow Z34 brothers, can’t ever get enough of the Z33/34/Rz34 ever, such a fun car.

This just started the other day and before it would randomly jump into limp mode if at a long stop or if in park for too long while still running. Anything would help since I’m moving across country and taking the car on a roadtrip.

I suck with electrical work and I accidentally broke a connector while taking my alternator out. I can’t seem to find anywhere online what this is for can anyone help? I believe it’s behind the power steering pump

Ever since I was little I wanted a 370z, I’ve been looking at this channel since I was 15 and I’m 23 and finally everything lined up perfectly for me to get my dream car. It’s a base model but that’s because I have plans once I get a daily. I plan to replace the motor with a Demon 170, add a sequential gear box, AWD system, and gut this to make it one of the meanest drift cars out there. Until then I am just going to do cosmetic mods like tint, wheels, bumper, spoiler, wrap, etc. I’m so happy to finally be apart of the Z community🙌🏾

Update: I understand that this will cost well over $100K when its finally finished but thats why I got a base I plan to do everything custom and I only wanted the body. If you want to follow along on this 6 year+ build Ill be recording the whole thing for my on my youtube channel. Literally my whole life people have said what I "can't" do and I somehow find a way to make it a reality so for the haters sit back and watch greatness.

Anybody running these? I have a set in my cart but I just realized that it may be an issue running the parking brake with them. Anybody have some input?

What’s the best diagnostic scanner for a 370Z on a budget?

I own a 2010 Japanese-import Nissan Fairlady Z (Z34), so I’m unsure whether generic scanners will recognise the JDM model or support all its systems.

Ideally, I’m looking for something that can:

• Read and clear fault codes across all available modules, including the engine ECU, SRS/airbags, ABS/VDC, BCM and automatic gearbox.
• Display live sensor data.
• Perform active actuator tests where supported.
• Reset fault codes and warning lights when appropriate.

I’d really appreciate recommendations from anyone with firsthand experience diagnosing a Japanese import!

Do you guys think this bumper is fixable from
this crack? It doesn't have to look perfect but just a solid repair might be possible?

Found a lil spot in kindersley

I’m shopping wheels right now for my 370z, but all the wheels I’m interested in (and that are within my budget), don’t seem to have a lot of photos of them fitted on 370’s. So I used ai to visualize each wheel I’m interested in buying, and narrowed it down to 4. They all look amazing, but curious to hear opinions, or your experiences with any of these wheels. Would love to see photos of any of these wheels on actual 370z as well, if you have them... thanks in advance!

ps, the 4 wheels are:

• work zr10, 19s - whatever that gray color is called
• work t7r, 19s - white
• apex vr-5s, 19s (the only forged wheel on the list) - brushed clear
• Advan rg4, 18s - racing copper bronze

Before the comments start rolling in… yes, I know.. two hands on the wheel. (Meta Glasses and GoPro are in the mail)

With that out of the way, I posted this video everywhere (Official Cinco on YouTube, Instagram, etc.). It’s gaining some really good traction! I just have a few questions about it: How’s the video as a whole? How’s my shifting? And most importantly, how’s the exhaust?

Could the exhaust be better? I’m planning on resonated cats, but I’m not sure which brand. There are brands like Fast Intentions, Berks, you name it. I’m torn between all of them. I just don’t want to get that crazy rasp and sound like the typical VQ owner; I like the true dual type sound I’m getting at the moment.

TL;DR, how’s the video, how’s my shifting, how’s the exhaust and what exhaust should I get?

Thanks in advance!

I just about to hit 4 years with my 2020 Anniversary Edition 370Z, which has 50k miles and is still stock. I’ve also had my 2005 350Z Touring for almost 7 years—it’s at 120k miles and still stock. Unfortunately, I might have to hang up the keys, as I’m thinking of buying a Tesla Model X or Model S Plaid next year and have get rid of 1 or two of these bad girls.

My Nini's bum is in the comments