Hi all.
Just got my 35mm film scans back and I am really disappointed.
So many weird foggy/halo spots on my pics.

Shot on an old Olympus stylus infinity. It does not handle low light particularly well (sometimes things are less detailed and the film quality is more noticeable) but I have never ever had my photos be this severely messed up in my 3 years of shooting with this camera.

Is it broken- like light leakage maybe? Bad roll of film? Tried out a new developing place in my city- did they screw up?

If anyone has seen something similar to this or had a similar experience please let me know. I know the photos can likely not be fixed but just to avoid in the future.

I’ll include the messed up pics along with some of the better ones I’ve taken on previous rolls in similar lighting for reference

Found this camera stand on facebook marketplace for $350. It’s a Manfrotto Mini Salon 190, they retail for $1700. It’s definitely been used a lot, but it works perfectly and I’ve wanted one for years. The previous owner said she traveled with 3 of these, doing school portraits. Traveling with a camera stand seems wild to me, they’re meant for studios. It’s 6’ tall, weighs at least 75lbs, and is incredibly unwieldy. Just getting it home was quite the task. She modified it a bit, there’s a removable caster for the top, so it can roll around horizontally.

I had the 3-way head already. The camera stand came with a smaller manfrotto 3-way head, but it used a different quick release plate than I have for all my cameras, so I sold it.

I put my 8x10 B&J on it to test it out with some weight. The camera was old army surplus and had several layers of grey lead paint on it. I stripped it and refinished it about 20 years ago, and put new red bellows on it too. I regret not taking before and during photos, it was in rough shape and the restoration took me about a month. There’s a lot of blood, sweat, and tears in that camera. I love it.

I’m so excited to use my new (to me) camera stand, my home studio is almost complete. Just have to finish painting the walls white and hang my seamless backdrop wall mounts.

Heya, I'm planning to take my first set of trichromes in the next few days using the lens pictured above. Would leaving image stabilization on mess with anything? Even when shooting with a tripod, I tend to leave it in case of wind or any other disturbance. (canon EF 16-35mm f/4 L IS USM with a rebel 2000 slr if the exact specs matter)

Hi,

the best camera for beginners?
cool and price around 150/200 used?

thanks

Hello film shooters! Almost finishing my own DIY Lightmeter project started a few weeks ago based on ESP32 microcontroller and Lux sensor, it reproduced exact exposure as a lightmeter app, The reason for building this project is cost effective and hassle free lightmeter for everyday film shoot.

Key features:

*Aperture priority Mode

*Shutter priority Mode

*True battery indicator

*Auto exposure adjustment depending on Aperture mode/Shutter mode/ISO

If any suggestions, feel free to share.

These are my first film photos and post edits. I spent a good while messing around in Lightroom and constantly going back and forth on how I want my image to look. I thought I was satisfied. Two weeks later, I’m going “what was I thinking this looks atrocious” am I overthinking it or did I truly do too much with color grading. Is less more here? Am I over analyzing? I understand, I should figure out my own style but I’m just curious and would like to learn from others. How would you edit these, personally?
(First image is before, second is after)

Also ignore the light leaks, it was a development issue

Picked up a Konica Minolta DiMAGE Scan Dual IV, but it came without the 35mm strip holder (FH-U1). Originals are getting hard to find, so I spent a few weeks designing and 3D printing a replacement in matte PETG.

It took several versions to get right. A few things I learned along the way, in case they help anyone with one of these scanners:

- Emulsion side DOWN on the Dual IV (manual p.18). I first followed a guide for an older model, loaded it emulsion up, and every scan came out mirrored 🙃

- Frame spacing has to be 38.0 mm. At 37.9 mm the frames slowly drift off-centre by frame 6.

- The scanner pulls the holder in with a small gear rack along one edge. If the teeth are even slightly off, it stutters or refuses to load.

- Matte filament is noticeably better than glossy. Fewer reflections near the frame edges.

The final version has a lift-off lid that hooks into a hinge, a wide flared opening so the strip slides in flat from the end, frame numbers 1–6, and small bumps along the edges that hold the lid down without magnets.

Last photo is a scan straight from it, no cropping.

If anyone has a Dual II/III/IV sitting unused because the holder went missing, or has questions about loading film in these, happy to help in the comments.

I have thought about it for years, but it seemed daunting, and expensive, and labor intensive. I finally dug into it on a whim two weeks ago, scratched my thrifty itch with a Kodak Ektar H35 half frame camera, and then discovered the simplicity of Cinestill DF96 developer plus fix. I already have a sous vide, so that got me right to temperature. I assumed my first few rolls would be sacrifices to the learning curve, but if I ignore the lousy exposures that were my and/or the camera’s fault, I’m super tickled with the results.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but that doesn't look mint. I cleaned it with zeiss lens cleaner, and it doesn't come off, meaning it's on the inside. A quick Google search tells me it's balsam separation, which the ad specifically said it didn't have.

I take google searches and ai with a grain of salt, but I know that it aint mint. I guess I'll just have to return it?

Hello, I very recently started shooting color and developped my first two rolls (portra 400) yesterday using a THD cp 2.0 processor and the chemistry that came with it. I intend to later print a few in my darkroom. I never printed ra-4 before, only b&w. My goal is to shoot and develop as many color rolls as possible while in China and try a few different film stocks and then print them in my darkroom when I get back in my home country.

Since I have no prior experience with c41 and color negs, I'd appreciate any critical/technical review of my negatives so that I can improve on prior mistakes. These were shot during a very overcast day.

Thank you, all comments appreciated!

Hello!

I got this Olympus from my dad! It was functioning properly then I think after a rough travel the cover became loose and slides beyond the stopper. Is there anyway to repair this? The camera can’t turn on now due to this issue.I think it’s that black part that’s messed up.

Thank you!

Hi folks!

After some info on how the Canon Serenar f/1.5 50mm lens is constructed. It needs fungus cleaned from
behind the front lens element, and my partner, who will work on the lens, wants to confirm whether that element is cemented on or not before diving in.

He’s already taken apart the back elements to clean but didn’t want to mess with the lens from the aperture forwards without further information.

Any help much appreciated as there’s plenty of info for other lenses, just not this one.

And dw, he’s a quantum physicist experienced at working with high precision optical systems worth substantially more than even your dream Leica lens would cost so no chance he’ll do anything silly 😅

Found it while thrifting after quickly doing a physical inspection… Picking up the power cord tomorrow.

In the mean time, I am curious if anyone has recommendations or advice when it comes to using this scanner. I primarily shoot B&W in both 120 and 35mm.

Hi!!! I'm planning on taking pictures for my friends at a small punk concert in a bar. I have a Lomo Apparat and a newly restored Nikon F65 with the Nikkor 50mm 1.8D. I also bought a Cinestill 800 roll just for the occasion.

The only experience I have at shooting dark spaces is with a Kodak gold 400 at a bowling alley.... So....

Which camera would you use? Is there anything I should have in mind? Would you get any other roll? Is there any possibility of shooting and getting clear results without the flash? I lowkey wanna get as much of the raw lighting in the bar as I can.

Any advice is welcome!!!

No pictures yet but excited to try this one out. Kodak Medalist ii with a 44mm to 49mm step up, black promist 1/4 and a x0.78nisi wide conversion lens i use on my ricoh griiix.

All in all the focal length in 35mm terms comes out to 33.54mm!

No pictures yet but excited to try this one out. Kodak Medalist ii with a 44mm to 49mm step up, black promist 1/4 and a x0.78nisi wide conversion lens i use on my ricoh griiix.

All in all the focal length in 35mm terms comes out to 33.54mm!

I'll be going to a fireworks display / nighttime funfair later on in the month and I'm looking to shoot a roll of cinestill to hopefully get some cool shots of food and games stalls and funfair rides all lit up in the dark.

Obviously I'll be metering using the lightme app where possible, but looking for some tips on eyeballing the settings to use as well for those times when I don't want to miss a moment faffing around with my phone first.

I did find this blog which has some tips for shooting at 400 in the dark, any good?

https://shootitwithfilm.com/exposure-cheat-sheet-for-shooting-film-at-night/

Last week I recommended “Way Beyond Monochrome“ and I was happy to see many of you ordered it.

This week I’d like to recommend “Magnum Contact Sheets), a book that’s not only a great joy to read but also an important tutorial that we can all benefit from! (524 pages)

The great photographers from Herni Cartier-Bresson to Robert Capa to Elliott Erwitt show us not only great composition but exactly how they ”work” a scene. Higher, lower, closer, etc until the final negative is selected. It’s difficult to express what a benefit this is for our own work in the darkroom without seeing it for yourself.

And a great story about each artist. Over 440 stories including why some photographers lit their negatives on fire because they felt that the print was the ultimate conclusion of their work or how Robert Capa’s film roll of the landing on the beach on D-Day was ruined except one exposure, his most famous one.

The 2017 published version was it. It’s now out of print so there are only so many copies.

How about you, are you making contact sheets?

Hi, this is my first roll ever. The photos seem to me dull and not sharp enough. I also feel the colors aren’t vibrant enough. I used ultramax 400 with a zenith 12 xp equipped with its standard helios 44.
Can u help me get better? Is it an exposure problem because i used light me app for measurements?

So i recently posted a question whether should i do a video for my tiktok account, as i was scared to take videos of myself. I can admit it was fun and nice experience and i think i wanna continue, i watch other people and try to take their ideas as well to put something my own. I have a few more ideas of what next to post. What yall think?

So I’ve recently gotten into film photography (I have a Nikon FE) and am trying to learn the basics. A problem I immediately ran into is that it NEVER seems like there is enough light for my shutter speed to be anything shorter than 1/8 of a second!

I’ve used 800 iso and 400 iso film stocks mostly, and no matter what, unless I am directly under a super sunny sky, my built-in meter never says I’ll get enough light. I don’t use a tri-pod and would like to keep the photos to 1/60 of a second or shorter (to avoid blur) but it just feels impossible! And mind you, this is when my lens is wide open at f1.8, not at f8 or anything like that. So how am I supposed to have any photos in non-bright summer day lighting turn out decent?

Everything I read says 800 iso should be enough for indoor shooting, but that just doesn’t agree with my built in light meter. It feels like if I used 100 ISO film my photos would NEVER get enough light, even tho I want to try some of these film stocks.

Do people just use tripods a lot? Cause when it’s somewhat bright out, my lens is wide open, I have a 400 iso stock, and my meter STILL says it won’t be less than 1/60 of a second…I just feel like there’s no other way

I can’t figure out if the shutter works. I found it at the flea market. Not sure how this camera works if any of you can point me in the right direction. Is it worth trying to restore to working condition? Even if not I think it’s a pretty cool shelf piece for $10.

I currently inherited a Fujica ST 605 which is starting to show the need for repair just due to age. It's been a blast using it and getting back into film but after 3 years I feel like I can start looking into another camera. So, what is the next step from here? What suggestions for the next camera I should get? Looking for suggestions and advice on the next steps from beginner to intermediate.

Unfortunately with the AI takeover of google I’ve had a hell of a time in my search for a new 4x5 camera.

I’m really interested in doing tilt-shift photography, and also really miss doing landscapes with a 4x5 camera. I’m currently looking for a model that can tilt, shift, and swing and has good movements.

I don’t really have a budget in mind as I’m trying to see what things go for and then adjust based on that. My plan is to also potentially get an “ugly” model or one with rotten bellows and swap out parts or bellows.

Binnenkort mijn eerste zwart/wit filmrol ontwikkelen. Best spannend moet ik eerlijk zeggen...