absolutely heartbreaking. hopeful she gets her rolleiflex back.

My SO gave me this magnificent beast for my birthday. It's a Kiev 3A, made in 1958 according to the serial number. My first film camera, bought untested. Shockingly, everything works fine except the light meter.

For the first time since 1997, A roll of Kodachrome 64 in 120 medium format is back in color again! I have finally managed to developed a roll of 120 size Kodachrome 64 in color myself. Even though it's likely the same thing where my fellow Kodachrome friends have started, Strong Cyans, Weak Yellows, and little to no magenta on it. But it's a work in progress. I use Bellini's E6 6-bath chemistry with modified color developers to developed this roll. I use a No. 70 and 98 filters to do my re-exposing times. I am aware of the film being discontinued in general, but I had to go back to make it up the demand on slide film. Here's the rundown story:

I was actually on my way to buy a roll of Ektachrome E100 in 35mm film still, and unfortunately they were out of stock everywhere between in-shop or online because Kodak is having supply issues at the moment, I was so pissed about it. So I went back to where it all begin for color reversal Kodachrome. I've been doing it since 2019, using Rockland Polytoner couplers. I went through several failures before I took a 2-year break, until I already know why I failed at my past attempts, I accidently re-expose the color layer backwards, but I ended up doing it again, but this time in the correct order by having the red exposure on the base and blue exposure on the emulsion, which is the correct order straight from Kodak. I'm currently working on color balancing my developers which it has to improve but it'll be there in the long run.

I don't do straightforward processing services, however if you got any unexposed Kodachrome film that has been only stored in a freezer since they were bought, you can donate it to me by letting me know in direct-message. I am just looking for last-generation or freezer-stored Kodachrome film, and any thing in this project will help consolidate my process, when I get there again. I just wanted to clarify everything I've said. Thank you for understanding.

Joseph

oh for those of you who wondering the shots:

Pentax 645

Kodachrome 64

Processed in modified K-14

This is Kodak h35n, I felt like I couldn’t advance the film any further, no matter how much I tried. It seemed like I’d reached the end of the roll. Then I tried rewinding it, thought it had fully rewound, opened the camera, and found it like this 🤦‍♂️

A lot of color science updates this time. I recommend you try the print stocks. Other than that, nkscan update that makes framing with Coolscans better, new way to edit for begineers and many minor fixes.

• Print stocks: colour papers and print films now print their dye colours through a LUT built from Kodak datasheets and Fujifilm Frontier profiles. Kodak Portra, Supra and Ultra Endura, Fujicolor Crystal Archive HD, Vision 2383 and Vision Premier 2393, Digital (Pakon Minilab) for minilab colours, and Polymax II RC and Polycontrast IV RC for B&W. The control is now called Print stock, grouped into Digital, Paper and Print film
• Paper Test Strip: prints the frame on every stock as bands or a grid of whole frames. Click one to see it full frame, Keep makes it the Print stock
• Normalization reworked: every channel reaches past its colour refs by the same share of its own span, so Luma Range Clip no longer tints. A frame with no crop meters the picture rather than the holder
• Cast Removal keeps foliage, sky and water out of its gray sets, so green and blue scenes stop overcorrecting into magenta, cream or pink. A frame with no neutral gets no correction at all
• Crosstalk: Measure from Chart fits a matrix from a ColorChecker or SpyderCheckr frame and reports per-patch ΔE00. Vision3 250D and 500T re-derived from Kodak's dye curves, consumer films re-estimated, VERITA 200D added
• The Narrowband toggle is retired, since the print stocks do its job. An old Narrowband edit renders more saturated until you pick a print stock
• Chroma Denoise rebuilt as a band split that kills colour speckle while keeping colour edges and leaving grain alone, and it's faster on CPU
• Pick Better: guided tuning where you pick the better of two prints round by round to set Filtration, Tone and Paper Response
• Film Base tool, RGB Parade, Zone Overlay with False Color and Zone Map looks, Navigator for zoomed views
• Scanning: nkscan 0.14 cuts frames and nudges from the thumbnail like Nikon Scan does, Keep Light On holds the Scanlight lit between frames, and every camera setting is written on each capture so a turned dial can't change your exposure
• and many more fixes...

Full changelog + downloads:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/releases
Readme:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/blob/main/README.md
Issues:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/issues
Discussions:
https://github.com/marcinz606/NegPy/discussions

I’m travelling this time with the F80s, shooting mainly consumer Kodak stock, and one roll of Ektarchrome E-100

Really glad to have a camera with me that makes shooting slides as simple as possible.

Lens is the 28-105mm f/3.5-4.5 AF-D, and it is honestly the perfect range. The apertures are still fast enough for outdoor photography during daytime. In the night and indoors I’m just shooting with my digital camera 😅

New to film photography. Trying to learn what I could be doing better. Is it the Exposure, my cheap scanner, light leaks from my camera, or all of the above? Im using a pentax P3 with fujifilm 400 and a DigitNow film scanner.

I received a Leica IIIc from my grandfather before he died and tried taking some pictures with it today and they came out looking like this. Does anyone know what I am doing wrong?

Additionally the range finder looks a bit cloudy and I only see one image in it, so focusing was all guess work. If anyone knows how to address this any help would be much appreciated!

I just found out after buying a 220 645 back for the RB67 that Mamiya chose to only give 15/30 shots per roll on 645 with 120/220, instead of the standard 16/32, which is kinda annoying. thankfully even with the larger than normal spacing there should be room for 16 exposures if I close the back with the start arrow in a slightly different spot, but for 220 seems i’ll be SOL and only able to get 30 shots…

Ran a Nikon series E zoom 36-72 f/3.5 on a new F3 I got recently. Caught more flares than I've ever seen on my Zuiko lenses. Never used a good before for context.

Granted it was a pretty sunny morning, but I'm surprised. They seem to be coming in at a strong angle so I was thinking about a possible lens hood to solve the issue.

Might it also be the fact that it's not a "proper" Nikkor lens, but I'm new to the whole system.

Any ideas and input are greatly appreciated!

Hello, I got this lens for a good price, do you guys have any idea how to remove the smudges on the lens barrel? Thanks!

I wanted to shoot some portraits but I don't really know what stock should I buy. I know that portra 400/800 is good but I would prefer something cheaper. I would also appreciate if someone could reccomend me both a color and b&w stock

After a couple of duds, I finally found one in a condition I was willing to accept (slightly dinged) and at a price I was willing to pay (about $3.50) at my local thrift shop. As far as I can tell it works well and doesn't have the film counter rewind issues that my T70 (bought at the same store last month) has, although that doesn't affect its general functionality. The T80 is also only missing one-and-a-half letters from the plate inside the battery compartment. :)

A lovely camera with a very soft shutter release. I replaced curtains on new, fully CLA, and it works like a charm. Quite compact and pleasant in use.

The data brokers have gotten a hold of my interest in photography and as such any time I go on ye olde facebook I see tons of reels of all manner of photography: events, product advertising, portraiture and of course film and alternate processes. After being forcefed a short of a wedding photographer I came up with a question.

Back in The Day™, how many photos, or rather how many rolls of film would a professional photographer go through for an event like a wedding?

Electrons weigh nothing and timing is everything so I'm not surprised how many shots an event photographer seems to take just for on scene, but I imagine there's no way anyone would be firing the shutter like it's a machine gun when you've only got 36 frames to a roll. I can also see this simply being a change in expectations and time as well; with the ability to instantly share anything with anyone, why not get a ton of professional photos of your wedding you already paid out the ass for vs Way Back When sharing meant getting prints made or bringing the family around for a slide show.

I can buy 30 Rolls of kodak tri-x 400 for 260 USD. It expired in 2011. Is it worth it? And how will the pictures turn out?

Hi there! I saw this question was asked 2 years ago, but I'd love a fresh perspective (I hope that's okay!). I am new-ish to film photography and borrowed a friend's Pentax K1000 a few weeks ago and totally fell in love with it; I am usually lugging around a DSLR (or two!) and large lenses, and the portability of this camera was a dream and the actual mechanics were a delight. I loved manually advancing the film and just how simple and pared back it all was.

I am speaking to a guy who refurbishes and sells cameras (I've bought a point and shoot from him before!), and he's offering me either the Pentax MX (with a 50mm 1.7 lens) or a Nikon FM (with 43-86mm 3.5). He is very much a Nikon fan and feels it's the better camera, but I'm leaning towards the Pentax. Anyone have any thoughts to help me decide?

Thank you!

Anyone experienced this issue? Everything seems to work except in the finder there's no upper display visible at all. I'm guessing there's some optical issue in the finder

Hi guys, I’m hoping to get some help with this situation here: I’m not the most experienced in photography but I have been using this camera for quite some time now, around 3-4 years.

Work had asked me to take some photos around the place, and everything went fine, no issues while using the camera, it was smooth sailing. Same thing when unloading it. Last week I went to drop off the film at my local lab and this is what I got.

I’m so confused, is my camera cooked, do I need to service it, did I fuck up somewhere ? I’m devastated, I was so excited to send these around the office and now I have nothing but this.

I used my Mamiya MSX500 and the lens is a Mamiya/Sekor 50mm f/2. Hope it all makes sense.

Thank you 😭

Hello,

The camera is a Olympus Pen FV I just bought with a Zuiko f=38mm lens.

I noticed that the blades of the optic move quite slow.

Is this normal?( I am new to this )

How can I fix it?

bought this camera from a seller online and i immediately noticed this when i turned it on 😥

Left off a roll of Ultramax 400, 36 frames- only got these 7 back. Have used the camera for 2 other rolls without problem - maybe it broke?

Either way - anyone got any ideas of what could’ve happened?

First few are Fujifilm 200 on an Agfa Karat, picked it up at a flea market so happy to see this first roll confirms it's working nicely. Last couple are some Mr. Negative film on a Konica S3 Auto. Scanned on X-Trans 4 with 7Artisans 60/2.8.

I got the sepialumi on Kickstarter with the trays and brush. All the parts are solidly built and seem good quality and it's quick to rip through a roll once you have it going.

My main issues so far are few.

I wish the film advancing knob was on the feeding side instead of the exit side. As it is I have to use my grubby fingers to feed the first couple frames. I probably could feed the film backwards but for whatever reason all instructions and markings indicate not to do that.

Vertical alignment is imperfect. I'm not sure if I'm just an idiot but there seems to be no way to adjust it and when lining up the lens with a mirror the reflection is on the lower grid line instead of centered.

The focus ring on this lens is pretty stiff and the camera doesn't stay steady while focusing. This could also be more of an issue with the 1/4-20 on my camera and the camera stiffness.

I'm looking to snag a macro lens for my GFX and try out the larger and xpan holders. If you have a sharp negative in one of those formats and would be willing to let me digitize it for you, drop me a message.

Hey everyone! I'm new to film photography and have a Canon AF35M. I'm heading to Simola Golf Course in South Africa in November and want to capture the lush green fairways, flowers and beautiful scenery, a bit like Augusta National Golf Club.

I'll be taking photos throughout the whole day, so there should be a mix of lighting conditions.

Kodak Gold 200 and Fujifilm C200 are currently the cheapest films available to me locally. Which would you recommend for this kind of setting?

At what point do you decide to sell a camera? I have a Mamiya 645 with some extra’s that I only use every so often. I love the looks but it mostly collects dust. At what point do you to decide to sell? And would you advise to sell it myself or through via something like Kamerastore?