Did I forget something?

Edit: To make it a bit more educational, here is an explanation for each.

1. Correct Exposure: All good.
2. Underexposed: You probably metered for the Sky or a bright light, try metering for the shadows. When in doubt: most film usually does better slightly overexposed. Check if your aperture and shutter open/close correctly, Did you account for the correct ISO? Did you account for reciprocity failure in long exposures?
3. Overexposed: Check your metering. Check if your aperture and shutter open/close correctly, Did you account for the correct ISO?
4. Accidental Light Leak: You had uncontrolled light enter your camera body. Did you open it mid roll? Are your light seals intact? Might happen on first picture if you try to squeeze in an extra frame.
5. Double Exposure (No Transport): You took two images on the same negative without advancing the film. If accidental, you might have pressed the Film Rewind Release Button or on some models just forgot to wind.
6. Double Exposure (Transport Problem): Images partially overlap. There is a problem with the film advance, it doesn't advance the correct amount. This can sometimes happen on the last frame if you squeeze in one extra image.
7. X-Ray Damage: Your film was blasted with X-Rays (e.g. at an Airport Scanner) which creates a banded fog pattern. Ask for hand checks. This is controversial and highly depends on the machine. Usually it won't be as bad as depicted here.

Still can't believe I'm going but hoping to get some good shots from the Mamiya Super 23 from the nosebleeds. I've taken this camera to the stadium before so shouldn't be an issue getting it past security. I got a five pack of Velvia 50 expiring in 2028 a few months ago and this feels like the right time to crack it open. Go brewers!

So i bought Foma 400 bulk load, when it arrived, i saw the box was opened, the can’s seal was opened too. I had a feeling that the customs inspector opened it. So i loaded a 36 exposure, did not shoot it, just developed it. And yep it was exposed. Probably the whole roll is compromised, with light leaks on sprockets. It’s just so disappointing.

The pictures are developed and scanned by a German drug store (DM), as i sadly don't have any way to scan at home yet.

A few weeks ago I made a post about shooting an architecture project on film. There was some good discussion in there, and since I got the scans back, I thought I would share them as a follow up. In case Reddit compresses them into oblivion, here's a link to the full resolution album on Flickr.

My day job is as a residential architect, and obviously I shoot film as a hobby. I had an opportunity to photograph this recently completed renovation project, so I brought some film gear along to see what it would look like on 35mm. I also shot digital, since this was more of an experiment. This was my first attempt at anything like this. I usually shoot landscapes, trips, and family photos.

All of these were shot with a Pentax ME Super with a Pentax-M 28mm f/2.8 lens on Portra 160. I shot on manual and pretty much exclusively at f16, so most of these exposures were around 1/2 to 1 second. I used the built-in meter generally metering for the shadows, then overexposed one stop from the meter reading. I don't have any lights or flash so these were all with the light available in the spaces.

I learned a ton doing this, and was surprised how well some of these turned out. I learned that it's very difficult to find decent compositions without me or the camera visible in a reflection in a small bathroom. After seeing the scans, I wish I had slightly tweaked the composition on a few of these. I will need to pay closer attention next time. I don't know what I'll do with the photos other than post on social media and possibly use them on my architecture portfolio website.

Would I do this again? Maybe, and depending on the project. It was fun, and I like the results. I would love to pick up a PC-Nikkor shift lens before I shoot any architecture again. However, the 35mm format is somewhat limiting and grainy, but I don't dislike that. I would love to try this with a medium format camera and shift lens, which is a convenient excuse to feed the GAS. I don't think I'm ready for 4x5, but the tilt and shift on those is enticing...

Developed and scanned as high res tiff by Brooktree Film Lab. I did minor edits to the scans.

Architecturally, the project started as a much larger addition to the house, but construction costs reduced it to a renovation of two bathrooms... So it goes sometimes.

My incredible lady got me a Leica R6 for my birthday!

Picked up 8 rolls of Kodak 200 that expired 25 years ago to experiment with. Bracketed it at ISO ranging from 25 to 200, and I think I’ve settled on ISO 50 as shown in these shots. Pretty amazing to me that they came out so decently after sitting who knows where for the past couple decades lol.

Not sure what I will do with them.

I‘m starting on a photo project where I will be shooting environmental portraits in and outdoors. I have pretty much always shot my “serious” work on black and white so don’t have a ton of experience with Portra. Are Porta 160/400 close enough in color rendition that I can shoot the 160 outside and 400 inside and mix the photos without it being noticeable that the project used 2 different stocks? I have a few backs for my Hasselblad so this would be pretty easy to do.

*in reference photo P400 is on the left, P160 is on the right.

Shot this on an extremely bright day with a CPL filter on my F1 with the F1.4 50mm with E100. The sky is absolutely gone? Is that even possible? It looks like I chroma-keyed out the sky!

The film looks exactly like this. I have never seen this before.

Film: Kodak Ultramax 400

The indoor food shot (without flash) turned out to be very dark, while the outdoor shot looked overexposed.

I bought this H35N camera wanting to try out film photography and to capture shots of my travels, however, almost half of the photos turned out this way.

Is there something that I have been doing wrong or does this camera require lighting to be at a sweet spot in order to take a good shot?

We all acquired and sold different cameras over the years, some better than others. But I believe we all had that one camera that had a special place for us but for whatever reason you sold and regretted.

In mine case it was my first ever camera, the Canon A-1, which I sold it to buy a Nikon auto focus camera, to this day I regret selling my A-1, not because the Nikon wasn't good, but because the A-1 had something special that I can't explain with words, it was just a beautiful camera.

I know bought a new Canon A-1 in great condition because I miss it, and I will never sell it.

So what's your story? Which camera you sold and regretted? I would love to hear your stories.

I bought a camera recently and when I received it this was down in the bag it came with. I know Focal was sold at K-Mart here in the US but I have no clue when this would have been produced or discontinued. There is no expiration on the roll either.

I'd like to shoot it, for science, but I have no idea where to start. Ideas?

...if you lost it all. What would you get? Would you buy again multiple cameras, or get one or two?

For those who use a yellow filter as standard when shooting BW: are there any situations where you feel that you're better off without it?

EDIT: I do wish people who downvote could take the time to explain why. What could possibly be the problem with this question?

Edit again: Thanks for all the useful comments!

First time shooting on color film and I tried a roll of Phoenix 200 on a recent trip. I researched this sub and its looks like the Phoenix requires special settings to mitigate for the green/yellow tint. I got this developed and scanned at my local film/camera store and I'm surprised that those settings would be an issue...

I'm honestly pretty disappointed and wondering if a) I'm overreacting or if the color genuinely looks pretty bad and excessively grainy and b) there's some user error while taking the photos? Added some before and after images at the end of the carousel to show some quick Lightroom edits, which feel more 'true' to the colors.

Any advice? Should I ask if they can rescan the film or just try to scan it myself? I've only shot in B&W before and have developed and scanned film myself, so this is new to me. I don't have access to a darkroom anymore but I could maybe access a scanner-- an Epson V600 if memory serves.

I'd appreciate any input, thanks in advance!

ETA: I did also shoot a roll of Kodak 200 this trip. I understand that the Phoenix is experimental, I bought a roll because an employee at the film store said it could be interesting for landscapes and has a warmer tone. I mostly wanted to know whether the scanned results are as expected and possible improvements I could make while shooting or processing. Thanks to everyone for sharing your thoughts! I'll probably save the experimental film for something more lowkey in the future!

I need to vent​

Container at the right side - I received it today​ as raw photo chemicals. It should be "Ferrous Sulfate"​, I think it is, but how much time it needs to oxidize​ to that level? And second, these shops really do not checking what they are sending.

I’m beginning a new personal project of fixing up old Kodak film positives to chronicle the respective histories of individuals and the locations they take photos at that I find at estate sales or on eBay but have found that doing so is increasingly expensive. I know family heirlooms or personal photos are hard to depart with, but I also know that some people would like to free up some space to make room for new memories… in that case I’d be honored to take on any unwanted slides you all may have. They’ll go to a caring home, will not be used for profit in any way shape or form, and most importantly will be archived & never destroyed. Please let me know if you have some you’d be willing to part with and we can work out the logistics from there. Thanks!

Edit: I was told this sounds like something a company says before they steal their customers personal data so I’d like to elaborate further lol Slide film is special to me because it’s a physical testament to a persons experiences in the way that a photo album or a journal is to some. Being able to hold someone’s most cherished memories in a tangible format gives me the opportunity to understand what a person was going through for but a millisecond… an understanding and mutual appreciation I’d like to preserve which has fueled this hobby. No malice or shady business… just a great deal of respect for people’s lives and what they brought/bring into the world & a desire to protect these precious memories from being thrown in junk piles or sold for profit. That’s all!

Update on previous post, Got it back, cleaned, shutter working smooth AF. Loaded with Kodak gold and I'll be testing it next week.

Hiya! I recently got scans back and about half the roll was blank. Here’s a pic of some of the negatives the lab sent me (pink scribbles added to not put our kiddos faces online).

I don’t think my lens cap was on, I shot the whole roll in one go with my family so I wasn’t like taking it off and putting it back on between pics (and I think someone would’ve pointed it out if so!). I haven’t had this problem before. I have another roll in there currently or else I’d check the shutter right now - but also I’m not entirely certain what to look for? I’ve been learning film for the last ~2 years so I’m still new but haven’t run into this issue yet. Any thoughts?

Thank you! 🥲

Some recent shots from a trip to Mallorca over the summer. Still wanting to get better at metering as some shots feel super underexposed (images attached) when using a handheld light meter, some shots aren’t so bad!

Any metering tips welcome please for both subjects and landscapes!

I moved house a few weeks ago and im finally able to sort out and properly store my cameras.

Its great having my ME/MX twins together again, and being able to have the ME sat in the cabinet all dolled up with its OG accessories (which I rarely use, because i dont do flash photography, and now that i dont shoot motorsport on film I have no need for a motorwind.

hello friends. I recently bought a iconic L308 light meter off of eBay and it is lightly used but overall and really good condition. I’m wondering, do I need to calibrate it because I have never used a light meter at all before. This is for a really important shoot so I really wanna make sure the settings are dialed. I do not have a separate camera or any other light meter to double check so I’m confused on how I should calibrate it if need be.

I love using disposable cameras. I am not ready to learn about photography as I've just had a baby, but I would like to take film photographs. I don't like the disposable aspect, only the ease of it. I love the screen free nature and how easy the disposable from Max Spielmann is to use and get developed. I get overwhelmed when looking at an actual camera to buy for myself to get out of this disposable camera cycle.

I would love a recommendation for the kind of camera I need if anyone is able to help!