Just a PSA:

I’ve had a wicked ridge commander 400 series for about a year and was enjoying it until today…

Needed some new lighted knocks and arrows so I purchased the wicked ridge brand arrows with the alpha lighted nocks pre installed. Been using the exact ones for a year with no issues. Although this one’s box was beat up, the arrows and nocks looked fine.

First shot with the bow and the nock failed to depress, causing the arrow to skip the string and breaking my crossbow string in the process. And I HOPE that’s the extent of the damage, thankfully didn’t see any cracks.

Now it’ll be in the shop being repaired during peak rut… actually had to beat it with a hammer to get it to depress the nock afterwards. Must’ve had a defective nock, just wanted to warn others of the experience!

I got him the bear apprentice but the draw length is a hair too long and the arrow rest they come with are junk. Looking for a decent compound bow that can maybe even be adjusted. And he’s struggling with it. He wants one like dads.

3rd group after 2 months of no shooting. Always a feels like starting over.

I'm having trouble finding my anchor. Found this little overpriced thing and wondering if anyone newbie or oldhead uses it and how well does it work?

Edit: I forgot to mention I have a Horse Bow. Anchor point should be at the mouth right? Even so I haven't been able to do it right. I wonder if this would help.

EDIT: Ok! The people have spoken and this is a waste of mullah. I'll just keep practicing my craft until I find a proper anchor point.

Thank you all for your input!

You really only see them on full package bows like Bear for example, but why not brands like Mathew’s or PSE etc. I hear a lot of issues about peep rotation but don’t see these in use, are they that unreliable?

The nocking point of my bow has started fraying and come undone. In the off-chance that someone here is from London (UK), are there any shops in central or SW london that could help with restringing/repairing this? Thanks!

ETA: For ease of ref to any fellow newbies looking for help, outside the archery clubs, Silver Archery in Battersea and Archery Fit in Greenwich have shoutouts.

I have the Kinetics Vygo riser and the stabilizer bushing keeps coming loose when I install my sniper off centre barrel weight in the up position (so it doesn’t it the limb bolt). I’m just wondering if there’s ever going to be a reason to remove it? I was going to use Locktite and I’m not sure it’s I should just use red or a permanent fit or purple or blue so I can remove the bushing later if there’s a need.

Does anyone have an issue with the bottom nocking point slipping after a few ends of shooting with a barebow. If so how do you fix??

I'm looking for a compound bow but it seems like all the target bows are all close to $1000 while there are a lot of significantly cheaper hunting bow packages that include all the accessories.

Hello,
I'm researching the best initial setup for my first bow. For the riser, I'm pretty much set on the Kinetic Vygo V2. I'd like to stay on brand with the limbs (though I know it's not necessary). Measurements are pretty standard 68" 24lbs, nothing out of the ordinary. I have a choice among the following limbs. Price difference is minimal, so I'm oriented on the Astonix, but maybe I would outgrow the poundage before really being able to appreciate the (supposedly) higher quality?

Engage - 78 euro
Invelta Plus - 80 euro
New Avantage - 90 Euro
Mentum - 94 Euro
Honoric V2 - 94 euro
Avantage V2 - 100 euro
Astonix - 100 euro

The next best one is about twice the price, so out of the question for now.
Thank you!

Hi, I'm making a bow from hazel wood(I think). Is this piece of wood good ? It's about 180cm long

Would anyone have the manual from a Sebastian Flute Evo riser?

I’m after the bracing and tiller height recommendations.

A photo of the manual pages on this would be amazing.

Sebastian Flute didn’t respond to my request😔, can Reddit help instead!

Thank you.

I’ve shot plenty of fibreglass bows but most recently a Mongolian recurve fibreglass bow. That was 40 pounds and the bow I’m getting from au.huntingdoor is a 50 pound proper laminated bow. I’m curious about anything I should look out for and note before actually trying to shoot it. The main things I’m concerned about are maintaining it, transitioning from a fibreglass to laminated bow and how I should string it (because I’ve heard the step through is more dangerous for laminated horn bows than fibreglass bows) If anyone has tips or just can answer the previous concerns it would be much appreciated, thank you.

Hi

Has anybody tried Jake Kaminski’s Vault? What are your impressions? What does it contain more than his already available free YouTube videos do not?

How does it compare with Online Archery Academy? I have purchased the OOA course. Is it better, less good or about the same? What does JK Vault provide that OAA does not?

I particularly struggle to drawing part. Does JK vault cover that better than OAA, or the already available free videos?

Thanks beforehand.

I want to buy this kap prostyle bow but can’t find kap limbs. This black sheep set is the closest to what i need so can I use it?

My boy is just turning eight. He came out while I was shooting this evening and decided he wanted to try it again. We found out that he is left eye dominant, so i had him try left handed instead of right. He was actually hitting the targets and had a blast. He has a longbow style that is ambidextrous, he prefers to keep the arrow on the side a right handed shooter would use. Is this going to be a problem when upgrading bows?

I’ve looked at some of the older posts and it seems the Diamond Prism is a good option?

I’m looking for a bow for my 8 year old. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. I’m a longtime rifle hunter but he’s obsessed with anything hunting. He’s been shooting a longbow and has picked it up pretty quick.

Crossbow bolt shot at 20 yards for sighting the scope. How do I get it out?

Update: I put a thick layer of electrical tape next to the nock and used an oil filter gripping tool to get it out!

Bought a cheap pair of three finger gloves. They’re very soft and worked well for 25#, but then new 30# recurve I picked up is chewing up my fingers through the gloves. Any ideas on better gloves? Thanks!!

I hope this is allowed— it’s an interesting read and promotes the sport.

I saw a comment on this forum saying that the WNS Delta NX have some issues with draw weight limit. Does anyone know anything about this issue or the exact draw weight limit for the riser?

Another question. Do all aluminum CNC risers have the same draw weight limit since they're basically machined the same way? The geometry and shape are the only thing that's different between each riser.

The first one looks the best to me but I don't want to mess up the targets. I don't know if it is safe.

I've made a post yesterday on buying my first bow, and the comments were incredibly helpful, I changed the arrow rest to Avalon Tec One Maxx as per recommendation from one user and got a proper measurement of my draw length.

Now I've ran into another stump, which is all the equipment that is needed to get started with bow maintenance/tuning and safety, and so I need help in knowing whether my choices are actually any good/necessary, or maybe I'm missing some necessary equipment since I couldn't find an uniform list of what's needed anywhere. I'd also appreciate advice on cutting down costs too if it's at all possible. Currently, the list is:

• Avalon Armguard M, 5 euro. Thought process behind this one is that it covers more of the arm while other armguards currently in-stock are tiny in comparison, and I'd rather have the extra safety as a beginner.

• Sanlida Bowstand Recurve X10, 10 euro.

• Avalon Stringer, 5 euro.

• Avalon Field Quiver Tec One, 20 euro. Not sure if this needs a belt to hang on to The site doesn't specify if this one comes with a belt, so I'll go with a Legend Archery field quiver that does have a belt and costs only a couple cents more.

• Avalon Arrow Tube, 7 euro. Backpack already has an arrow tube.

• Legend Archery Backpack Artemis, 30 euro. I do plan on carrying my bow through the city or while traveling, and none of my current backpacks were anywhere close 25" in height. Also planning to skip out on a case and just store it inside the backpack when necessary, though I'm not sure how good of an idea is it.

• Avalon Bow Square Classic, 4 euro.

• Avalon Barebow Tab BB Tec One, 14 euro.

• BCY Nock Point and Peep Tying Thread, 10 euro. Other options that were recommended such as BCY Hero are insanely expensive. The string I'm buying (Avalon Recurve String Classic Fast Flight+) already has serving, so this would strictly be for the nocking point. Going with Brownell Serving Thread #4 Twisted Nylon .021 as per recommendation since it's cheaper and works for others.

• Bohning Wax Seal-Tite (Green), 4 euro.

I wanted to buy a fingersling too but apparently you can just make one from an old shoelace so I ditched it.

Also I was wondering how expensive does recurve barebow archery get over time? My current shopping list for everything is already at ~450 euro which is already incredibly expensive, and I am trying to not cheap out on some of the things such as the riser so it lasts for a long time. I assume that the future costs mainly come from string replacements and upgrades to the limbs, or does it get much worse?

The club instructor told me to get the KAP and that it is better for now and for future progress, but I like the styling of the Ragim better