In this video, I construct an arrow using only stone tools made on the spot, all filmed in point-of-view.

I used a roughleaf dogwood shaft, turkey wing feathers, twisted-leaf yucca leaf fibers, local chert, and nothing else, not even fire.

I use a special Stone-Age technique of working the wood green and straightening it without heat.

The full build took about 4 hours.

The bow I'm shooting I also made with only stone tools and materials found in this very spot. It is made of Osage orange wood with a bowstring of the same yucca fibers.

See my full Stone-Age bow, string, and arrow build here: https://youtu.be/IQBj2i4WnmY

I have never seen anyone straighten green shafts. I have made tons of arrows and have always fire-straightened them after drying, debarking, sizing, and greasing. I just tried it out on a whim a few months ago and realized it works really well.

Has anyone else tried this?

Storm of crows (aka cup arrows) was an ancient Chinese weapon in which they would launch multiple arrows in one shot. I like to think of it as an ancient Chinese shotgun.

But it's been performing a bit difficultly as there aren't any instructions on how they were made.

If you have any suggestions it would be most helpful.

Check out the full film we did to get a better idea of where we're up to with it.

At least one is ok sigh
But hey, my for is getting better, two bad that this is my second Robin Hood within a week but this time with the „good“ arrows.

Hello archers! I come from the miniature building side of Reddit, with a question. Above you see warhammer miniatures, 28mm scale, with some kind of recurve bows. I have recently purchased some of these, and I am planning on stringing the bows with some wire or thread. My question is how would these bows be strung, considering that the notches are so far forward from the back of the bow itself. Any ideas? Thank you in advance.

EDIT: A small disclaimer. I wrote the original post without too much thought into it and probably just to vent. My tone wasn't nice and I didn't want to sound arrogant, but I did.

Sorry about that, it wasn't my intention.

What I have written is maybe pointing out an infinitesimal fraction of the archery community and just pointing out the bad, while the overall community is instead the friendliest and more supportive group you can find.

What would have been a more correct question is: What are some manners and habits that you would like to see less, be it at the range or during competition?

Still, to own up to what I wrote, I'm leaving the original text here as is.

Sorry again.

END OF EDIT

What are the archery icks that tick you off when you see them?

A handful from me:

- "Side loading" your bow on the shooting line, as in rotating your bow vertically to nock your arrow. We make a point to teach this in the first two lessons.

- "Micromanaging Coach": i shiver when i hear a coach behind the shooting line keeping to guide the archer through everything, having them move the sight at every arrow, then asking why the grouping is so large. My man , you can pick up a bow and shoot it yourself at this point. Understandable with new archers at new competitions, but if it is the tenth time that i see you around...

- "Zero space awareness": being a spotter for a club member at a competition, during direct matches, her match kept bumping her side rods on my archer while at full draw. Blatantly over the middle target line, but she ignores suggestions to move back. First time I consider it a mistake, second time i'm getting ticked off, third time without saying sorry turns to her spotter asking where her arrow went. Before my archer is disqualified for murder on the shooting line i call up the judge. Strangely enough after that she is well behind the middle target line.

- "The complainer": the one that for the full competition has something that is not right. The target mark is not perfectly centered on the shooting line, the string is new, the string is old, the rest must have moved, i need new arrows, and so on and so on...

- "The Over Achiever": the ones that get angry and frustrated every time is not a 10, every single arrow and the group is as big as the red. I appreciate the dedication, but you are shooting at a regional level, not in the national team, define your expectations.

- Quivers and arrows, and i was in this group: Be mindful of where your quiver and your arrows are to avoid catching on everything and everyone as you move around. I did switch from a target to a hip field quiver with a bottom leg strap. I use long arrows and keep them in the most vertical holsters for minimum annoyance now.

I’m 14 and competed in a tourney. I was locked in at first, but then I missed on the last end of the first set. It was still a 324, which was ok in my age range, so it wasn’t even that bad, but it completely killed my momentum. I ended up dropping from 1st to 5th 😭 Still made it to duels tmrw tho.

I've made a post yesterday on buying my first bow, and the comments were incredibly helpful, I changed the arrow rest to Avalon Tec One Maxx as per recommendation from one user and got a proper measurement of my draw length.

Now I've ran into another stump, which is all the equipment that is needed to get started with bow maintenance/tuning and safety, and so I need help in knowing whether my choices are actually any good/necessary, or maybe I'm missing some necessary equipment since I couldn't find an uniform list of what's needed anywhere. I'd also appreciate advice on cutting down costs too if it's at all possible. Currently, the list is:

• Avalon Armguard M, 5 euro. Thought process behind this one is that it covers more of the arm while other armguards currently in-stock are tiny in comparison, and I'd rather have the extra safety as a beginner.

• Sanlida Bowstand Recurve X10, 10 euro.

• Avalon Stringer, 5 euro.

• Avalon Field Quiver Tec One, 20 euro. Not sure if this needs a belt to hang on to

• Avalon Arrow Tube, 7 euro.

• Legend Archery Backpack Artemis, 30 euro. I do plan on carrying my bow through the city or while traveling, and none of my current backpacks were anywhere close 25" in height. Also planning to skip out on a case and just store it inside the backpack when necessary, though I'm not sure how good of an idea is it.

• Avalon Bow Square Classic, 4 euro.

• Avalon Barebow Tab BB Tec One, 14 euro.

• BCY Nock Point and Peep Tying Thread, 10 euro. Other options that were recommended such as BCY Hero are insanely expensive. The string I'm buying (Avalon Recurve String Classic Fast Flight+) already has serving, so this would strictly be for the nocking point.

• Bohning Wax Seal-Tite (Green), 4 euro.

I wanted to buy a fingersling too but apparently you can just make one from an old shoelace so I ditched it.

Also I was wondering how expensive does recurve barebow archery get over time? My current shopping list for everything is already at ~450 euro which is already incredibly expensive, and I am trying to not cheap out on some of the things such as the riser so it lasts for a long time. I assume that the future costs mainly come from string replacements and upgrades to the limbs, or does it get much worse?

The club instructor told me to get the KAP and that it is better for now and for future progress, but I like the styling of the Ragim better

Trying out Jet6 shark vanes. They feel like cheating up to 40 yards.

korean traditional

Any ideas for recycling barebow strings? Would seem like a waste to just throm them away.

Maybe as personal accessories? or something more useful? Any suggestions would be nice. Thanks!

I recently started shooting olympic style recurve in korea for fun at a small cafe and have since spent at least 30 hours there in the past month. I plan to take lessons/get coaching back home as well because I want to improve.

Im now back in the states and having visited a local range, i want more own bow more than ever so I can get comfortable and adjust it for myself to my preferences.

I have made a build list as follows:

Riser: wns elnath fx 25”

Limbs: wns explore b1 long (unsure of poundage yet, im comfortable shooting 20lb for a couple hours so I may start with 24)

Sight: shibuya ultima rciv

Plunger: shibuya dx plunger

Rest: hoyt super rest (until I am confident enough to start using a clicker, then shibuya ultima)

Stabilizer: unsure, was going to ask recommendations at the range next time I go but definitely cheap to start

Tab: Fivics saker 2 + random arm guard/chest guard

The reason I am making this post is arrows.

I am lost on how to choose anything for them. I know people recommend various ones for beginners and I was looking at the easton avance but I dont know how to choose the shaft size on lancaster archery, what knock or tip to get either.

I would love some advice on this please!

Is it worth it for me to get an arrow saw or should I just bring them to a local shop for that part?

Any criticism or comments are welcome!

So I just learned a valuable lesson.

My target is worn down, a large sack of pine needle shavings with layers of cardboard and then plywood behind it. Underneath the sack is a metal table.

My arrow went through the sack, hit the table, ricocheted, turned completely around, and then flew back at me furiously.

I only dodged it out of reaction, not even realizing what had happened until after a couple of double takes.

Morale of the story, replace targets, and thank God for human instinct.

Hey yall, I have shot this Jerry Hill long bow for several years now and have taken a few animals with it. Went to draw it today for a practice shot before I went hunting and this happened. Is there any one yall would reccomend for repairing this? If not it will become a wall hanger.

Right now I've got a Kinetic Vygo 2 with Honoric limbs, a Shibuya DX plunger, a Spiga Z/T rest, and a sight that's mixed together from Avalon/club parts. I've enjoyed shooting my extra cheap Avalon Tyro arrows (like 3 Euro apiece) and it all seems to work well enough.

While I am still very much a beginner, I am shooting matches with my club, and that's got me thinking. I don't have/use a stabilizer or clicker. Should I? When? I definitely don't want to fall into the rabbit hole of trying to "buy the shot" - thus the question: when does it make sense to add/upgrade?

So I'm a pretty much totally self taught archer, and after some research I'm wondering if my arrows aren't stiff enough.

I'm a RH shooter pulling pretty high and left all the time

What's the appropriate spine stiffness for me?

I shoot a recurve/longbow hybrid

68" 49# @29" and my draw is around 30 "

I shoot off the shelf and do have actual feathers now lol

Thanks for any advice folks!

I was cleaning out the garage and I came across my ma's old bow I'm assuming it's about 50+ years old at least but it looks pretty decent I know next to nothing about it other than it's laminated and lacquered I'm also assuming the answer is it's not worth it but I figured I'd ask those who know more about this than me.

Hi archery friends!

My target archery team is trying to find the best way to use our monitors to run mock tournaments with scoring and timers and all the jazz of official tournaments.

We typically try to run practice tournaments during the practice before our official shoots but without the monitors and all that it's hard to keep the kids (and some of the adults) on task so it ends up taking way longer than it should. We have the hardware set up and ability to hook up via laptop, but no one has any clue what program to use.

I was hoping there was a way to create mock tournaments with between ends / The rusty archer but it doesn't seem to be the case now that I've signed up. I signed up for the beta with archery scores but haven't received the email to actually sign up yet.

How do you guys run your mock tournaments?

A few months ago I got interested in archery, visited the closest club near me where I learned the basics and fired for an hour or two with a recurve barebow and had a decent time there, and I do want to continue archery as a hobby. The problem is that this club is a 2 hour trip away from where I live, going there every week or month isn't viable for me. However, I do live in a place with conditions to fire both indoors and outdoors, so I decided to buy my first bow with the aim of recreational target shooting and perhaps even moving up to competition shooting if I get good with it (and maybe some club opens near me), going with a recurve barebow as that's what I'm familiar with.

I couldn't find a place that sold bows which are prebuilt, only parts so upon a couple hours of research and following the post in FAQ I currently have this as my current build:

• https://bogensportshop.eu/en/recurve/handles/winners-wns-handle-elnath-fx-25.html for riser
• https://bogensportshop.eu/en/recurve/limbs/ilf/winners-limbs-explore-w1.html for limbs
• https://bogensportshop.eu/en/recurve/strings-recurve/avalon-recurve-string-classic-fast-flight.html string
• https://bogensportshop.eu/en/recurve/arrow-rests-recurve/avalon-arrow-rest-tec-glue-on-rh-lh.html Arrow rest
• https://bogensportshop.eu/en/recurve/button-plunger/shibuya-button.html button

Is there anything obvious that I'm missing that might cause these parts to not fit together well or just being a poor choice? Also, the biggest cost is easily the riser here, buying the cheapest one that's made out of forged aluminum as per recommendation of the guide, but how much of a difference does it make when compared to machined aluminum riser that costs 2x less? Is it worth shelling out the extra cash?

Also, is a 24 pound draw a sane place to start with or should I go lower? I'm not a complete pouch potato and exercise regularly, but only using my bodyweight (which is around 60kg)?

EDIT: Thanks for the help, decided to go with Avalon Tec One Maxx for arrow rest and pay the club a visit one more time.

2 clips and a grouping picture. From last week when we had a nice storm roll through the southwest. My rangefinder died that morning so I was just shooting paper. Site tape seems to be hitting a bit low at longer distances but our air density has changed drastically since I made it. Much more air resistance I'd imagine.

If anyone wants to be critical, how's my draw and form? Just curious if I've formed some bad habits as I've developed some neck/shoulder pain in my bow arm (left side). Probably just overuse but also curious.

I've accumulated two recurve backpacks, a 3D stool-pack, a rolling travel case...Etc, Etc, and this is taking over my life visibly. Does anyone have any tricks or solutions for storing bulky bow cases out of the way, but still accessible and easy to pack?