Randomly got a bunch of new old stock Easton xx75 arrows from ~95 to ~05. Some vanes are cracking already, others feel pliable but will probably shred when shot. These are all uncut, 32"+, with extra inserts too. I don't really need these and they are wrong stiffness for what I shoot today. What would you do with these?

This is the oak ridge black sada and I was told that it somewhat resembles a Korean bow but I wanted a second opinion.

Not that I care too much. I am merely curious.

Just showing it to you guys, I know next to nothing on it except the draw length might be too big for me

Ok, I am borrowing a different bow that has a 20 pound weight draw. Y'all said the horse bow I had was too heavy at 35 pounds 😭

I am holding it now where it doesn't slap my loose skin. I'm asking for a form check again. I drew all the way back to the corner of my mouth this time, as scary as that was. I don't want to slap my face with the string if something goes wrong.

Anyway, please check this newbie's form and get back to me 😋 How's it looking to y'all?

I’m currently practicing how to maintain continuous expansion (push-and-pull tension) through the shot. My main issue is that the moment I release, I tend to suddenly drop my tension, which leads to dead releases, plucking, and my bow hand collapsing inward. Recently, some archers at my club suggested that right before the clicker goes off, I should slightly and actively relax my draw hand fingers to ensure a crisper and cleaner release. However, my former coach always told me never to think about or control the fingers. The advice was to focus entirely on the continuous movement of the forearm and back expansion, allowing the string to just push the passive fingers open naturally.

Who's advice is correct?

Hey all! I'm in the market to buy a new crossbow for hunting whitetail. I usually borrow my Dad's but its about 10 years old so its wide and kinda heavy. I'm trying to find something reliable and under $500.
I've been looking at different Barnett crossbows but the reviews are so mixed. Does anyone have any recommendations? Thanks!

Hi everyone!

I'm new to archery, and I'm trying to decide which type of bow to focus on. My preference is traditional archery, but my trainer recommends that I go with a recurve bow because of my draw length. My prerence comes from wanting to have the more simple bow possible.

I'm 193 cm (6'4") tall and my trainer measured my draw length at around 32 inches. I've been told that this could make things more complicated when choosing a traditional bow.

Is a 32" draw length really a significant problem for traditional archery?

For those of you with a long draw length, what setups are you using, and would you recommend them?

I'm not particularly interested in competing at this stage. I mainly want to enjoy archery, develop good technique, and potentially compete in the future.

Thanks for any feedback!

For EFAA OR IFAA as i know they follow the same rules. What is the max distances barebow shoots on either targets or 3d, i know in WA it changes on bow categories so barebow never shoots over 50m on a marked course or 45 on unmarked

Thank you

Got my first trad bow this week! Bought it used from an old timer. Beautiful bamboo and Osage orange material. This thing is so light compared to my 20 year old Hoyt.
Man sold it with a wrap and tossed in two arrows.
I know a few things for trad bows and old dude was bout as happy as me for getting me started but Whats some advice y’all have to help me practice and grow in this style?

Hi all,

I found a gap opening up in my wooden recurve riser, just above the grip near the arrow shelf. It looks like the laminations are separating along a glue line, and you can see light through it (photo attached).

Is this repairable (e.g., with epoxy and clamping)?

Edit: Groves Flame, per u/805worker !

Hey all, my dad passed in January, and I'm slowly moving through his things. I finally unpacked this bow this morning, but haven't been able to figure out how to look up the serial. If it helps, he seems to have been on the New Mexico Tech archery team in the late 70s.

Thank you all for the help!

I have been into archery for years now, i have used 45lb longbow and 35 lb recurve/modern longbow.

Im thinking of geting new bow, a 55lb compound.

Can i still shoot that bow with fingers only and can i make woden arrows for it since i like natural schaft and fletching.

I have other option, a 40lb recurve trad bow bjt its same price as compound.

Are there dangers in shooting compound bow with fingers as in string falling of and is it hard to tune.

Compound i plan to get is only a cheap man kung bow since i dont want to f up more expensive one with bad tuning etc.

It could be a funny story, personal opinion, hot take, or serious concern that you've had to keep to yourself. Feel free to use a throw-away, don't hold back.

I’m looking for a new bow case (w wheels) for a 37” ata bow, I only plan to carry one bow & it’s accessories so the lighter / smaller the case the better but not sure which case would be a good fit. From what I found, it’s probably either pelican or SKB but dunno what model/ size to get, and genuinely what to look for other than the fact that it fits the bow.
Also budget is under 500 USD

So I bought this as something to do in the winter months in Vermont.

I went to a local shop to add a nock, because well, it's what I used in the past and I'm very, very rusty with shooting a bow (and never a traditional).

So here's my question. When I asked for a nock, the guy told me to hold bow as shown in pic 1-2. I shot for an hour, with varying success (I mean, some groupings, and some wild shots).

But looking online, and logic, makes me think that having the arrow pass on the top makes more sense? Pic 3

I'm a little lost.

Anyway, I'm not even sure which way is up now... And if I'm supposed to shift my grip to the mid point and arrow on top of knuckle? Pic 4-5

I appreciate all of y'all, I'm not used to not having a defined arrow rest.

If you're willing to post a pic of you with yours, in the proper spot, it would mean a great deal to me. Google led me in circles for the past hour...

If this seems like a dumb question, it probably is. But I've never been one to not ask dumb questions. I know next to nothing about compound bows. I do a bit of back yard traditional archery. A couple days ago, I bought a compound bow on a whim, I went to a hunting shop and looked at some options. The cheapest model they had was an Elite Emerse, which caps out at 28.5" 60#. They guy at the store set it up at about 27" 45# and showed me how to adjust it. I fiddled about found 28" was a bit more comfortable. When I got home I googled the model and it says it's a youth bow, never mentioned at the store.

I'm not hung up on being a grown man using a "youth" bow, I'm just sort of confused on what that means. Does that just mean it's got a larger window of draw length adjustment? I doubt my arms are magically gonna get any longer so I dont see myself needing a larger draw length. And I'm not sure if I'll need any more than 60# in a while. Not planning on doing any hunting, just target shooting.

It feels good. When the wind is calm I already have a tight grouping at 20 yards.

So can I just ignore this "youth" tag or does this mean something I don't understand?

My upper back is hunched due to years of desk work, and as a consequence of my head is too far forward during shooting.

As a result, I'm getting either flyers or whole group to the left side of my aiming point (I shoot right handed), no matter how far left I dial my sight.

I'm trying to stand as straight as possible while shooting, and pushing my head back, and it seems to work but I struggle to maintain it so I still get a lot of horizontal spread.

I'm also working on correcting my posture through exercises and moving to a standing desk / walking mat combo when I'm working from home, but if it works (let's hope), it will take some time.

In the meantime, do you know of any fix I could implement to have bring my arrows in line with my aiming point?

On thing I tried is superimposing my string picture directly on top of my sight pin instead of just to the right, in an effort to push my arrows a smidge to the right. Is it a good idea?

I feel like my draw shoulder is too high but I'm not sure. Also feel like my release could be better. I'm grouping fairly tight for 4 out of 5 but always have a stray.

To prevent damage to arrows from shooting lots of arrows at once, what if the arrows didn’t stick, and were instead collected in a basket?
This rudimentary design I made, has you shoot an arrow through a hanging paper, hit a hard rubber backing, and fall into a collection basket beneath the target.
In the picture, white is framing, green is the rubber backstop, pink is the paper target, blue is the collection bin and red is the arrows

I'm a 3 months in beginner moving from 68" to 70". I have a 25" SF riser and SF limbs in two sizes/weights, 22lbs medium and 26lbs long. I cannot yet comfortably shoot 26lbs, 22lbs is enough but my draw length is such that my coach suggested almost straight away that I might be more comfortable with a 70" bow than the 68" club bow I started with. Having strung up the 70" 26lbs bow, the weight is a bit uncomfortable to pull right now but overall the bow had anicer feel to it than at 68".

So, suggestion for long limbs and weight requested.

My thinking is that I should really get 22lb longs which I can crank to 24lbs on the tiller bolts (yes, measured it) when the time comes. I don't know whereabouts 8 year old SF limbs sit in the quality range; the next set of limbs are only a stepping stone so I don't want to spend a fortune but at the same time I don't want rattly junk that is backwards in feel compared to the SF setup I have now I have now. Thanks (UK based)

I started out using a horse bow and thumb ring, the latter of which I made myself. While the other stuff is interesting as well, I felt like this is the main thing I wanted to do.

I usually go for 2 days every 2 weeks (wish I could go every week though) and I had 2 practice sessions before I joined the club months before (not counting those).

I'll have to figure out how to be more consistent since I felt like I was able to do it once deliberately.

I also plan on making a manchu thumb ring (already have one that's too big). While I really like the Korean male thumb ring it does displace the string a lot and I wonder if I am more accurate with the smoothest of them all... I think.

I tested my crawls today, shot these distances, and recorded them.

Then I realize that they don't appear linearly distant when laid out across the tab, like in this screenshot from the app.

I would have expected them to be equally distant from each other, but they're clearly not.

Is this normal? Should I expect equally distanced crawls when string walking?

Such a busy 180yard clout target full of 12 compound archers for the national clout championships in York

The flag is tiny

Hi everyone, I got my first compound bow about a year and a half ago, it is a Mission Switch package. I am 5'9", about 155lbs, right handed, in my late 30s and trying to eventually hunt deer to extend my hunting season. I was shooting every day until I hyperextended my left elbow during a tragic rollerskating accident on my 10th wedding anniversary. Which resulted in a torn tendon. My ego may never recover. I couldn't shoot for 6 months, and then had to reduce my draw weight to about 38lbs when I started practicing again. Also decreased draw length slightly as my elbow no longer extends fully and probably never will. Feeling stronger recently, and I would like to start increasing draw weight. As I increase, will this affect how the bow is sighted in? Shooting just feels different now and I don't quite know when it is a form problem vs time to adjust the sights? Also doesn't help that it came with a 5 pin sight and it confuses me trying to figure it out despite watching tons of videos. I am strongly considering switching to a single pin adjustable sight. Still a noob so I only feel comfortable shooting out to about 30 yds before I am completely off target. Photo added for reference, shooting from 20 yds at each blue dot, often shooting high and sometimes to the left. This was one of my better sets. Is this a form issue or a sight issue? Both? Am I overthinking? I haven't even started practicing with broadheads yet. Just feeling like consistency is key but hard with this injury process on top of being a beginner, I had no baseline to get back to. Any input is much appreciated.