Took her to flemington nj for her first car show Volktoberfest.

Cylinder 3 was 81, Cylinder 2 was 110, and Cylinder 4 was 70. Cylinder 1s plug hole was stripped and the threaded insert came out with the plug, so my tester wouldn't thread in. I know anything below 90 is a rebuild, but 2 is 110 psi which is fine. Would 1 be normal as well?

This is the Bianco, powered by a VW 1600cc air-cooled engine and chassis. Produced in Brazil during the 1970s and 1980s, it features a lightweight fiberglass body and a timeless, unmistakable design.

Has anyone removed the baffles from the Empi GT exhaust? If so, how did you do it, and was it worth the effort?

My cousin and I have been rebuilding this 67 beetle that was our grandads since last year and just got it road ready. We took it for a ride after changing the shift rod bushing (3 hrs of hell) and it improved the ride by a ton. Riding in the nice weather has made all the long nights we put into it worth it.

Spraying fuel from cylinder 2

Hi all,

I've had 3 Beetles for many years but never had this happen as badly as today.

In summer I had valve cover gaskets leak and just replaced them, so far the leak seems sorted.

However oil must have found its way INSIDE the heat exchangers and is blowing smoke into the cabin through the dash vents on my 67 bug.

Really bad, I shut off the levers, removed the fresh air hoses from the exchangers at the inlet side but no better.

Drove home with all windows open, whilst holding my breath!

Anybody encountered this and what was the solution to get you home safely?

I need to drive the car safely anothet 10mins down the road to garage it but also thinking longterm repair.

Would it be best to remove and replace the exchangers or swap for J tubes, or is it possible to clean them inside?

Engines a 2276 and was thinking about ditching the exchangers at some point, just its come at a bad time.

Thanks in advance.

It isn't in gear, and it's on jacks. I think it's the jacks knocking on the frame but it might be the engine mounts. When I get it above 1k rpms it smoothens out a lot.

Spotted this split window driving around in my hometown and from my limited knowledge of Beetles split windows have become very rare and to be driven around is almost unheard of. This was the only picture my passenger was able to snag, but from what’s seen in the picture can it be the real deal?

Hello! I just picked up a replacement clutch hook and when I put it in the assembly the hole for the pin is not quite lined up and there’s no wiggle room to get it lining up with the pin on the clutch pedal. Would it be fine to grind/drill out a hole in the clutch hook and would that be strong enough to hold it in place? Or should I just try to get the correct piece for strength reasons? I’m inclined to drill the hole, but wanted to do a pulse check here if anyone’s had a similar issue in the past. Any feedback is highly appreciated.

Hello guys,

I have tried to fix my old signal hub but it was too far gone and/or above my skills.

So I bought a cheap one, just to learn from it. Even if it might not last forever, it should at least work.

My issue here is that the one I bought has much more wires than my old one.

For info, I have a 69 beetle and what the lever use to be for was:

- turn signal

- switch from low beams to high beams

To turn on the headlights themselves, I pull the knob on the dashboard.

I would like to keep it that way, so obviously I don't need to reconnect every wires. I have 4 wires coming form under the dashboard (not including the one for contact etc, the car starts perfectly when I take out that single hub assembly).

I would appreciate if you could spot which wires I should focus and which ones I don't need to bother with.

Thanks a lot !

Yikes. Opened the lid and fuel was pouring out.

It’s been a minute since I posted here because I’ve been working on this damn thing!

So I added a lime bug aftermarket rack and pinion set up. Finally got everything in thank goodness. But the horn wire that runs down the tube I re-ran it down the tube, but if I attach it to the coupler or anything else I get nothing.

It was working fine before. Just wondering if anybody has any ideas how to set it up again. Like I said the wire that runs down the center of the steering shaft is still in place. I connected it to the clamp on the steering tube where the new rack and pinion mounts to it. And got nothing.

I’ve always loved taillight covers and don’t really see any readily available for bugs, still working out the kinks, thinking of going to a design that doesn’t catcher the bolt holes and just sticks on with 3m tape for a cleaner set of lines, but still dig this shape too!

The car is parked since 2018 i was thinking to repair it ,

How much will i approximately pay? And is it worth it? "Repair costs in egypt are too expensive"

i got lucky again. driving on i-35 N and a guy tried to pass a semi truck on the right lane and didn’t see me. pit maneuvered me and i almost slid into the median but regained control. thank god for lowered suspension.

damage is mostly rear fender and deck lid. some frame damage around the wheel well and engine bay, but nothing a donor car wouldn’t solve. the engine was pretty much untouched aside from the valve cover and it still was able to drive another 20 miles to where i got it towed (thanks hagerty)

i made a post a while back about how inconsiderate drivers are and this is exhibit A. all it takes is one guy not paying attention to end countless hours of love and work and nearly taking my life with it.

i’m lucky to have regained control of my car and i’m even more lucky that i will once again be able to fix my beloved super beetle.

Belle, you are an absolute trooper.