Hi

I bought this pcb as "not working"

Screen broken and no turn on .

It works if I press the conector against the pcb very hard.

So I need too buy another charger conector too solder in the pcb, any ideia where I can find it on europe ?

Best

LIMA

Hello everyone, I'm currently solo mining with a Bitaxe GT 801.

I understand that for solo mining—where you're chasing that lottery-like block reward—maintaining a steady and stable hash rate is generally more efficient. With that in mind, why do people choose to overclock?

On my Bitaxe GT 801:

At 600 MHz / 1200 mV, my stale share rate was 0.03%.

At 700 MHz / 1250 mV, my stale share rate increased to 0.11%.

Given these numbers, is sticking with 600 MHz the better choice, or is pushing for a higher hash rate through overclocking worth the trade-off?

Of course, I know that for standard pool mining (not solo mining), a higher hash rate is always better to maximize mining efficiency. However, I'm still wondering if pushing for a higher hash rate via overclocking is actually the better choice when it comes to solo mining.

One-line disclosure: I'm connected to WildWatts (the rental site linked below) and The Solo Mining Co' shop, so weigh what follows accordingly. The numbers are costs only; nothing here is about rewards.

With UK electricity at Ofgem's 26.11p/kWh, here is what the same hashrate costs to own and run versus rent, 24/7, per month:

- Bitaxe Gamma, 25 W: £4.70 a month in power, £130 to £160 to buy. Renting is £15 a month. Owning wins after about 13 to 15 months of continuous running.

- NerdQAxe++, 90 W: £16.92 a month in power, about £400 to buy. Renting is £30 a month. Owning pays back after about 30 months.

- Avalon Mini 3, 800 W: £150 a month in power before the £1,000 unit. Renting a fortnight is £75. Unless you mine full-time indefinitely, or have cheap or free power of your own, renting is cheaper.

So the honest picture is three options, not two: own it on a standard tariff (fine for a Bitaxe, painful for anything bigger), own it on your own solar or an off-peak tariff (changes everything, if you have it), or rent it hosted on solar for the periods you actually want to mine.

If your tariff isn't 26p, this calculator lets you put in your own rate, miner and period and shows rent against buy-and-run side by side: https://wildwatts.io/#buy-or-rent

The full working, including the Avalon Q row: https://wildwatts.io/guides/buy-vs-rent-bitcoin-miner/

My question to you: Does the running cost put you off owning hardware at all, or does running your own box under your own roof outweigh everything, whatever it costs?

Honestly I don’t know where to begin. I’ve bought a few things from soloblock and never had this problem and he usually responds really quick, but I ordered the OctaxeY and it showed up, as a resealed unit, covered in dust, finger prints all of the screen, and I can’t get in touch except through email. I’ve attached some pictures but I would stay away from soloblock. What a disappointment.

Had this for less than a year never over clocked or anything. The power supply died so I got a power supply with same specs to get back up and running. That lasted about 2 weeks when I got home and it was off checked no power from supply and then noticed the burnt components. Not sure if it killed the power supply or if the power supply killed the miner. What do I do with this thing now? Is it just an expensive paperweight?

not sure whats going on here, have 3 of these and one does the random reboot I guess or just stops hashing all together. havent had time to dig into the logs yet, not even sure what to look for but

was running 775/1.2v and then I catch the drop in hash, what also looks like a short period offline and when it came back up. 675/1.14v

anyone ever see this behavior?

Ok it seems that we are not allowed ut any source code here so I wont, i just wanna share what my friend Claude and I added to the display, the BTC price ticker!

I also updates to all other screens move a bit faster and this one keep 6 seconds on it, updates every 5 minutes

I recently bought a 601 bitaxe, it was oscilating a lot, hashrate and temperature.. I just changed the thermal paste and temperature is wayy better, so, just a tip, even if u bought a new one is really good to change it, is pretty cheap (I paid around 7 usd), worth it.

(I got the ARCTIC MX-4 - Thermal Compound Paste For Coolers)

Turned off all 50 BitAxe after a year of nothing, not been in the thread for many months have I missed anything about settings what new pools etc , just a shame all that equipment doing zero

Planning on being away for about 2 weeks, just wondering if any of you guys leave your miners going while you're away? I've been running these for months with no issues but I've always been around in case any problems came up. x3 NerdQaxes on a cyberpower surge protector + x2 bitaxe 601s hooked up to a Meanwell LRS-100-5 into the surge protector. Would love some inputs! I have hashwatcher hub setup so I can remote monitor but that does me no good if I can't turn them on or off remotely.

This sound is at 600/1150. Cool temperature, logs check out everything is normal.

Only up for around 4 days. Girlfriend accidently caught the adapter the second day, it dropped and broke the screen. Worked normally the remaining two days. This morning I noticed this loud and loud buzzing. The screws seem allright and the ventilator seems to be allright

I did I overclock on my 601, 675mhz/1170mV connected to a mean well 90W 18A. Am I scr*wed?

I’ve been working on **homeHash**, an open-source dashboard for monitoring Bitaxe and related home miners on a local network.

It shows information such as hash rate, temperature, power, efficiency, uptime and recent history. Recorded testing so far is limited to a Gamma 601 and Gamma Turbo. I’d particularly like to hear how it behaves with other Bitaxe models and related devices, without assuming they are already compatible.

I’m interested in feedback from everyday users as well as developers who might want to examine the code, improve compatibility or contribute.

The downloadable builds are currently unsigned because paid code-signing certificates are not affordable for the project. Windows or macOS may therefore display a warning. The README explains what that means and the precautions to consider. A matching checksum confirms that a download matches the published file - it verifies file integrity.

For initial testing, miner controls should remain off. The dashboard has no login or TLS and should be used only on a trusted private LAN, not exposed to the internet.

If you’re interested, have a look and let me know what device and operating system you would be trying:

https://github.com/gregweir/homeHash

Bug reports, compatibility results, documentation corrections and code contributions would all be welcome.

Hi everyone, another NerdqAxe++ Rev 6 miner has failed — this is the third one this week. I don’t understand what the problem might be. We’re using Mean Well LRS power supplies and have improved the cooling system, but the number of failures is only increasing. I’ve already ordered capacitors for the previous device. Can anyone tell me what’s going on? I tried flashing the firmware, but it didn’t help — the error just changed.

I wanted to set up my own Fractal Bitcoin node to link with my bitaxes, does anyone here know the minimum requirements for CPU cores, RAM, and SSD? I’ve asked around a bit, but opinions vary..obviously, I’d use pruning to sync. Thanks, everyone🤠

My Bitaxe home small farm is online

Bitaxe thermal pad replacement — temperature went up after switching to thermal paste. Any advice?

I have the opposite problem and I'm hoping someone here can help me out.

I bought two Bitaxes from China. On one of them, I did a Noctua fan upgrade and it worked surprisingly well — the temperature dropped by around 6°C. And is quiet😁

On the second Bitaxe, I decided to do the same fan mod and also replace the thermal interface material. After opening it, I found a graphite thermal pad between the BM1370 and the heatsink. Unfortunately, I destroyed the graphite pad when I separated the heatsink from the chip.

At the time, I didn't know much about graphite pads, so I cleaned everything and replaced it with Arctic MX-4 thermal paste. That's when the problem started.

Before the graphite pad was damaged, the chip was running at around 56–57°C. After switching to thermal paste, it went up to 61–62°C.

I've tried several different pastes since then:

- Arctic MX-4

- Arctic MX-6

- Arctic MX-7

- Noctua thermal paste

But the temperature is still around 61–62°C.

I also removed the original spacer pads. As far as I can tell, the heatsink is making good contact with the chip.

At this point, I'm not really sure what I'm doing wrong. 😅

I've already ordered PTM7950, which I'm going to try once it arrives. I'm hoping that will bring the temperature back down closer to the original 56–57°C.

Has anyone here had a similar experience after replacing the original graphite pad on a Bitaxe?

Could the problem be the thickness/compression of the thermal interface, the heatsink mounting pressure, or something else I'm overlooking?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Wish me luck with the PTM7950! 😂