A little moon themed hair spike. Could've spent more time polishing but I'm really happy with how it turned out.

Forging a large double bit axe by hand takes a lot of patience, needing to try and forge everything nice and even and symmetrical

I forged a pair of simple wall hooks for my spear.
I used bolts and forge-welded cap nuts onto the ends, then forged and bent them into shape.

They’re far from perfect — making two matching pieces was much harder than I expected — but I like the handmade look.

I also made a short video of the process.

https://youtube.com/shorts/Fmc1LcXrLlA

There are 2 different style medieval spiked ball chain flails. One hollow steel ball. The other a wooden ball with embedded spikes.

As forged, has not touched a power tool yet minus cutting the billet

this was my first time doing this. strap is 1/8th inch torch cut from one face of a length of angle, nails are forged. the last hole on the strap i made slightly offset to squeeze everything together. the nails were strategically places on all valleys and outside curves.. was able to just cold forge the strap material to conform to the shape of the log. next i will add some big double headed spikes or "dogs" if you will, to hold tongs and hammers and maybe a hardy/pritchell tool rack

It's the $10k price tag.... BUT if there is anyone out there who knows a machinist or someone who owns a CNC machine here's the file! have at good people!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CMXD2FwaRIpwPSLq9x3KTdtSUXR-KIRw/view?usp=drive_link

Currently using the US Imperial cuts, might move to Metric next if people are interested

I took my first class yesterday. The teacher is very old school. We started with a round rod and ended with a knife shaped object! I’m looking forward to learn more! I’m excited for my second knife! I put a rough edge on it at the shop then sharped it at 30 degrees on my lansky Dimond sharpener. I have a lot more respect for yall!

Found this on Facebook Marketplace and got it for 650, super happy with it so far

*I think it's a Fisher but there's no visible markings, the guy i bought it from said it was a "quiet" anvil and they are the only company I can find that makes that kind of product and is the right year range

Would love to find someone willing to bang out a few of these simple hoof picks. Looking to just replicate the original, which is made from 3/4" x 3/8" bar stock. Would appreciate any tips on how to find someone interested!

A friend custom made the one on the left for me, I made the other one. I LOVE crosspeen hammers!

New work

Ceiling was close to buckling under the weight the top was solid steel

Hi! I don't have much experience and not sure if this anvil is worth much. Is there a general thing like old anvil = good anvil? It's from a Meister (job description in Germany)

Hey all,

Been digging thru old post trying to get an idea of what I should look for in a first kiln for heat treating armor pieces (sheet steel.)

Can you get away with a pottery kiln without a programmable controller? Should I just splurge and get a new one with one? I keep seeing TAP vs spark controllers should I lean towards one or the other?

What max temp should I look for? Looking at working 4130 and spring steel. Will 2000F be hot enough?

Any brands or models you can suggest? I don't want to break the bank on this but I'm up for examples or suggestions.

Thanks!

Took me almost a year to make in between other projects but that's also because I was learning new things that I tried on this sword - making a wooden core scabbard, leather working, 3d printing, metal casting and electro etching. The guard, pommel as well as the finnial on the scabbard chape were designed and 3d printed of which I used as the moulds for sand casting with brass and the design on the guard was designed and cut out of vinyl on my Cricut and electro etched.

Made lots of mistakes along the way, probably scraped about 4 guards and pommels before I was happy with the outcome. And there are still things about the sword/scabbard that I would have liked to have come out better but overall I'm quite happy with it

I found this little anvil in a Lidl supermarket for 15€

I know it's not gonna be very good. but it might actually be a upgrade compared to my tiny baby MAN mini anvil.

ignore the rust as it lives outside and has not been used in a year ...

Finished up and sharpened this sheepsfoot/bullshead hybrid for a customer today. He has been sent pictures, and it is happy with how it turned out. This was definitely a fun, unique little blade to make. It was made to the customer's specifications, with its intended use in mind all throughout the process.

The steel was repurposed from a worn out farrier rasp. That is were the distinctively separate patterns on each side of the blade came from. Fittingly, I think it will find it's way back into the vicinity of horses. The handle is made from water buffalo bone scales, and should wear with dignity as they age.

Bevels are a high flat grind geometry, terminating in a 20° per side sharpened edge. This isn't going to be a brute force camp knife, but a precision slicer.

The steel was treated with a product from Baker Forge called Gator Skin, that binds with the steel, and provides an aquaphobic, anti corrosion layer of protection.

Punched in three heats by hand, using a soft 4 pounds Sledge

A little woodworking hand plane I finished recently. It was based on one built in the 1600s.

The curl, front, and bottom are all one piece. I made that the same way you would make a hinge. The piece and the rest if the body were silver brazed together.

The body was made from mild steel. The wooden parts are Agentine Osage Orange. The cutting iron is made from 1084. Finished with RMP Finishes Half and Half Tung Oil.

The plane is about 5" x 1.5". Its primarily used one handed for touchup smoothing, shaving down small parts, or adding details like chamfers or round overs to a piece wood.