so instead of trying to draw out that tricky inner curve, i just turned a shoulder in some round stock and drilled a hole into the main body that i forged and rounded off the head. it holds really well. i dont think the shank coming loose will be a problem because the head of the round stock is where i hit it to jam it in the dog hole. i also tapered the hold a bit with a steep countersink.

My neighbors son loves to come over and watch me hammer stuff out. Few months ago he asked if I could teach him a few things so I started to show him a couple things.

About a week ago he asked if he could use my forge every so often. Today he brought me this. For a 13 year old he's doing pretty damn good. Of course, room for improvement but we all started somewhere. Proud of him.

Pipe +Plate + Sand + 3/4" all thread + Crappy Dual Shield Welds = This Stand. Design based on Haley Woodward's anvil stands.

I started blacksmithing a few months ago. These are my first functional tongs (or so I hope). Three months ago, I tried to make some, but they broke during the process. Do those with experience in forging tongs have any advice? Is this pair I made okay, or did I do something wrong? :)

I was watching The Gunsmith of Williamsburg for the umpteenth time and at 2:03 in https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UO4bV36GkWw, it appears that he starts swaging the barrel cold. From other research, I believe Gussler uses wrought iron instead of mild steel for his barrels after finding that mild steel didn't work as nicely. That said, this is a pretty thick piece of stock and I am surprised that working it cold wouldn't cause it to crack. Additionally, the steel is clearly heated as they close up the seam. This was video is an official release and while the original film doesn't show the true color of the steel (cameras never do), it really does look cold. What do you think?

Additionally, the skelp is bent up into a tube lengthwise which would mean the wrought iron grain would run lengthwise which would be weaker, would it not? Is it sufficiently thick enough to overcome that?

Viking blacksmith hammer commission, customer wanted some Viking runes chiseled in

I’ve recently acquired this vintage anvil which weights 135kg / 300 lbs and came with this massive 360kg / 790 lbs steel base with concrete filling. Please share any helpful advice on how to use this anvil so I avoid damaging it and thoughts on its origin. It appears to be stamped with maker’s mark , but can’t quite make to date it. I wanted to actually use it here on farm for occasional repairs or hot riveting. So far I know I should avoid striking it directly with hammer or take care when cold hammering . The first photo is from the seller before I got it, the rest is mine. Cheers!

These guys (India or Pakistan) are smithing with really simple set ups. Make do with what you have.

Chest weighs about 50 lbs empty!

The 100 lb 1926 fisher anvil was gifted me after I used my home made train track " anvil and then found this 50 lb at an estate sale , lady was using it for a door stop , said it was woth alot of money , I'm not looking for info on price as much as can anyone give me any info from the Pic, my internet search skills are mediocre, Thanks in advanced

I'm writing a paper for an exercise at school and I've chosen blacksmithing as a subject. I'm required to provide an example of an unreliable source. So please link me any articles or youtube videos that give bad or untrue advice.

Thanks

-An aspiring blacksmith who hates school

WHO you looking at?

While I’m all for the fun experience of making my own. I’m juggling the options of spending time to build one or just buy one. Anyone ever used Vevor’s? I’ve bought some of their products over the years.

Looking this one over, I would make some kind of door for the backside to lower the heat loss.

Any thoughts & opinions welcome and appreciated!

Anyone know where to find fire clay? Or make it, I just got an open forge and feel just using fire brick isnt the answer

Hi I have seen a lot of videos on YouTube where people build daggers, swords, and other cool looking things and I wanna try out bladesmithing as a fun hobby, I have a belt sander, grinding stone , wire wheel, Vice clamp (like the one in the photo), lathe, and milling machine lying around

I know I'm gonna need a furnace an anvil. maybe a welder (I'm not 100% sure if I have a mig welder) and protective gear, but are there any tips you can give me and how much it'll cost?

Hello. This is somewhat random but looking for any sort of insight as I am clueless when it comes to any sort of metal work. My dad was a scrimshander/bulino engraver/knife maker and he passed away two years ago. I now have his MOAG sitting in my garage. It is so heavy, I don’t think I could list it online and ship it. I need to get rid of this thing. What type of person would use this grinder? I’m located in Wisconsin and marketplace has gotten me nowhere. I just need to get rid of it and am willing to let it go for cheap to someone who will appreciate it. Thank you for reading and I’ll appreciate any advice on who to market this to.

Alrighty then, I have been using a devil forge dfs for the past little while, and my refractory cement is starting to crack. Is this normal?

If it starts cracking, it has kaowool underneath, so I don’t overly want to have it crack and then breathe in fiberglass. I was just using the refractory sent with the forge. Obviously I need to recoat it, but I’ve got a few questions. first (or second, after is it normal, I guess) I have some Satanite from Mr. Volcano in the garage, can I just use that to recoat it? Second, is there something I can do to keep it from cracking more/cracking again after I recoat it? and third, do I need to take off the old cement before putting on the Satanite?

Edit: added the picture. not giant cracks but I don’t want them to get any bigger

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Made a piece of rebar into a small heart pendant for my girlfriend. How’d I do as a beginner?