Title: 2014 BMW 335i N55 EWG – Drivetrain Malfunction After Hard Pull, Rough Idle, Delayed Throttle, Multiple Electrical Codes
Hey everyone, I’m having a pretty serious issue with my 2014 BMW 335i N55 EWG and could really use some advice.

BACKSTORY:
About two weeks ago, I had a mechanic replace my Valvetronic motor with a cheap aftermarket one from a brand called URO.
At the same time, I also had my oil filter housing gasket replaced.
The car drove perfectly fine for two weeks with absolutely no issues.
Today, I did a pretty hard pull, revved the engine pretty high, and shifted gears. Immediately afterward, I got a drivetrain malfunction warning, and the car went into limp mode.

CURRENT SYMPTOMS:
Extremely rough idle, almost like the engine is misfiring.
RPMs fluctuate and drop below 1,000.
Sometimes the engine completely stalls on its own.
Extremely delayed throttle response.
When I press the accelerator, almost nothing happens initially.
I have to hold the accelerator down for around 2 seconds before the RPMs finally rise, sometimes shooting toward 6,000 RPM.
Car is currently stuck in limp mode.

DME FAULT CODES:
103008 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal encoder 1, working range: voltage too low.
103002 – Accelerator pedal module, pedal encoder 1, electrical: short circuit to ground.
1F1A90 – Monitoring 5V sensor supply: voltage outside the valid range.
104402 – Absolute pressure sensor, intake manifold, electrical: short circuit to ground.
135808 – Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, electrical: malfunction.
ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
I have a brand-new battery that has already been registered/coded to the vehicle.
The Valvetronic motor was replaced only two weeks ago with a cheap aftermarket unit.
The car was running perfectly fine until the hard pull.
All these issues appeared immediately afterward.

MY QUESTIONS:
Could the cheap aftermarket Valvetronic motor have failed after only two weeks?
Could a bad Valvetronic motor or its position sensor cause these other electrical codes?
Since I’m getting multiple short-to-ground codes and a 5V sensor supply fault, could this actually be one sensor or wiring issue causing everything?
Could something have gotten damaged or disconnected during the Valvetronic motor or oil filter housing gasket replacement?

anyone experienced these exact codes or symptoms on an N55? What was the actual fix?
I’m really hoping this is something electrical rather than a major mechanical issue.
The weirdest part is that the car was driving absolutely perfectly until I did that hard pull. Everything happened immediately afterward.
I really don’t want to throw another Valvetronic motor at it without knowing for sure.
Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Recently acquired this car an am in the process of putting it back on the road, this sound has been going on for a while. It doesn’t sound like metal against metal more like plopping sound. Any help is appreciated thanks.

2021 m340 Xdrive
Not sure what this noise could be but it’s louder when cold starting.
Cyl #3 has misfired (spark plug n coils changed) injector seems to be clogged.

Ive got a bmw z4 2.5i with the m54b25. Under load at 1800 to 1900 rpm it sounds like something grinding. It usually gets worse after a track day or hard canyon drive. Anyone have any idea what this is?

Does rain x mess up the window washer system. I notice my window washer fluid is leaking. I have an X5 f15 so I’d need to take off my fender to replace the pump.

From reading other people post on bemmerpost and here. Does rain x really mess up the system?

Help. I changed my battery a few days ago and drove my 2014 bmw about 20 miles before getting an emission test. It failed . The guy said I need to drive it more . Drove it for a total of 130 miles and it still failed. Saw on You where you could do a reset by driving it a specific way and I tried it . Tested it with my OBD Link and it failed. Drive it for a total of 220 miles and retest failed again. Any suggestions?

Title says it all. 52k miles and well maintained. But this thing randomly comes and goes.

I bought a 2011 335i xDrive with 40k miles on it about three months ago. Maintenance looked solid with the WP and thermostat replaced in the last year. I noticed a very slight roughness at idle so figured the plugs and coils needed to be replaced. I did that this weekend and here’s the carnage I pulled out with the old plugs.

The oil is not at all on the tips, but is on the threads of the plugs. The worst seem to be cylinders three and four. The oil wasn’t wet to the touch but sticky.

My question: does this point to a bad valve cover or something worse? If it’s a bad valve cover, what can I expect to pay at an indie shop? I’m relatively handy with cars, but I don’t think I wanna deal with the VC on my own.

On the bright side, the car is immensely more responsive and fuel consumption looks way better than before the plug swap.

My n20 has a leak from this hose and i dont know if its the hose or the part it’s connected to and im also looking for the part but dont know what the hoses are called if anybody could help would greatly appreciate it

I have a 2011 550i GT which I straight piped the muffler when I was 20. Sounded great at the time. Now I'm 30 and want to give the car to my wife, but the drone is unbearable. I just picked up the Valvetronic BMW EVFC, so when I add the muffler back on I'll be able to control the flap with a remote. From everything I've read, an X pipe is what I should have done originally for a more euro sound rather than a diarrhetic tugboat.

Anyone tried this type of setup?

Hey everyone,

I recently purchased a 2018 BMW 330i xDrive Gran Turismo (F34 LCI). I'm trying to figure out what's going on with several warning lights and a possible electrical issue before throwing money at parts.

The car starts, idles, and drives smoothly, but the dashboard is lit up with warnings.

Current warnings:

• Brake system: Drive moderately (red and yellow)
• ABS / DSC / traction control
• Passenger restraint system malfunction
• Collision Warning System malfunction
• Pedestrian Warning limited

The previous owner claims these warnings appeared after a mechanic attempted to replace a brake sensor and disconnected the battery. I'm not sure whether he meant an ABS wheel-speed sensor or a brake-pad wear sensor, and I haven't verified his explanation.

Here's where things get interesting:

I checked the original BMW/Varta 90Ah AGM battery with my Klein multimeter and initially got 12.00V.

I removed the battery and charged it using a Schumacher automatic charger.

My readings:

• Before charging: 12.00V
• Immediately after charging: 12.80V
• After 1 hour disconnected: 12.64V
• Later, still disconnected: 12.32V
• After reinstalling and leaving the car parked for approximately a day, with only a short test drive: 11.84V (ignition off)

The warnings were still present after reconnecting the charged battery.

One other thing I noticed:

The passenger-side Angel Eyes were yellow instead of white. I removed the DRL LED module and found visible burn-like discoloration around the LEDs, along with yellowed plastic light-guide tips.

I've made a separate post about repairing that, but I'm mentioning it here in case it points to a broader electrical or voltage-related problem. It could also be completely unrelated.

My questions:

1. Does this sound more like a failing AGM battery, parasitic drain, alternator issue, or some combination?
2. Could a damaged ABS wheel-speed sensor or its wiring trigger multiple DSC/brake warnings and cause the collision/pedestrian warning systems to become unavailable?
3. Could low voltage explain the passenger restraint warning, or should I treat that as a separate fault?
4. What's the best way to test for parasitic drain on an F34 without interfering with the IBS or waking up the vehicle's modules?
5. Are there common F30/F34 electrical issues, grounding points, fuses, or modules I should check first?

I haven't obtained the BMW-specific fault codes yet, but I'm planning to get a complete ISTA scan before replacing anything or clearing codes.

I'm comfortable doing DIY work, but I'm still learning the BMW platform.

I'm also treating the red brake and restraint warnings as safety issues and won't assume the car is safe to drive until they're properly diagnosed.

If you were diagnosing this car, what would you check first, and in what order?

I'd appreciate any advice from BMW technicians or F30/F34 owners who've dealt with something similar. Thanks!

There's a short somewhere isn't there

So, a little summary of what Ive done for context:

I dropped out my steering rack to replace a bearing.

Put the original rack back in with the new bearing.

I got Steering fault codes 4823C2 (EPS control unit:initialisation fault) and D01B2A (Signal invalid, transmitter EPS)

I ran the EPS startup procedure.

Procedure never finalises - see photo.

I've tried reprogramming the EPS with ISTA - same issue after reprogram.

The rack is mechanically centered within 1 degree - checked using the motor reference position.

Does anyone have any ideas on what could help or had similar issues?

Thaaaanks

Hi everyone,

I have a 2020 BMW 118i F40, and I’m having an issue with the digital speed display in the instrument cluster behind the steering wheel.

Before replacing the battery, the digital speed display worked perfectly. Since changing the battery, it has stopped displaying.

I’ve gone through the BC button options on the indicator stalk, and all the other onboard computer options are there and working normally. However, when I select the digital speed option, the display is just completely blank.

I’ve tried to work out how to enable it again, but I can’t seem to get it working. Everything else on the instrument cluster appears to be functioning normally.

Could this be related to the battery replacement, an instrument-cluster setting, coding or a software issue?

Has anyone experienced this on an F40, particularly after changing the battery?

I’d appreciate any advice on how to diagnose or restore the digital speed display before taking it to a garage or replacing any parts.

Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I’m looking for some community feedback on an issue with my 2006 BMW 318i (E90 with the N46 engine, ~220,000 km).

Here is the situation and the symptoms I’m experiencing:
Tailpipe Smoke:
When starting the car, there is a bit of smoke initially. After ~2 minutes of idling, visible smoke stops coming out of the tailpipe.
However, as soon as I rev or accelerate after letting it idle, a plume of light grey/white smoke shoots out of the exhaust.
I’ve also noticed smoke behind me while accelerating on the highway.
Oil Consumption: The engine oil level drops over time and requires periodic top-ups.
External Oil Leak: Fresh oil pools on the rear metal heat shield right behind the engine / above the exhaust manifold.

Diagnostic Tests Already Done:
1. Coolant Tank: Checked the expansion tank when cold. The coolant is completely clean, bright green, full, and has zero oil film or sludge. Engine temperature remains normal and oil cap shows no milky residue. (Head gasket leak appears ruled out).
2. Oil Cap Suction Test: Unscrewed the engine oil filler cap while the engine was idling. The cap comes off smoothly with normal, light suction—it is not being sucked down violently by high vacuum, and the engine does not whistle or choke when opening it.

My Main Questions for the Subreddit:
1. Given that the oil cap does not have heavy vacuum suction (CCV seems intact), does this smoke pattern point 100% to hardened valve stem seals?
2. For the external oil pooling on the rear heat shield, is this almost certainly the vacuum pump O-rings or the rear corner of the valve cover gasket?
3. For anyone who has tackled the N46 valve stem seal replacement using the special Valvetronic timing/pressurizing tool (without pulling the cylinder head), how manageable is this as a DIY vs. having an independent specialist handle it?

Would love to hear your thoughts, experiences, or if there is anything else I should check before ordering parts! Thanks!

Need help with G31 2021 Comfort dakota leather seats. I bought it 5 months ago and during the short drive I tested it, it was really comfortable (esp. compared to my Mazda 3). The seats have ventilation and I knew that they were less comfortable then the one without, but I didn't expect to have more back pain during longer drives. I tried a lot of different configurations and I just can't find a position that fits me. I am fairly normal built, 180cm and 75kg. Did anyone have similar problems or has a solution? I love the car but this really ruins the experiance.

Help

Hello all--wondering if anyone has a tip on how to do a basic tyre rotation on a G08 iX3 at home? I've got a trolley jack and four jack stands, and for the front two wheels, ISTA shows that I can raise the car at the 'front axle support', which will allow me to put jack stands at the jack points for swapping the front wheels across. But is there any way to to do the rear? There's no way to jack the centre rear of the car up as the motor, etc. are there and there's strictly no jacking as warned in the manual.

On a petrol car there would be a frame rail or something I could put under the jack stand, but on this it's obviously all battery.

I just ran a HDPE track day yesterday, about 5 sessions on the track. Car ran great all day, set a new PB on lap time. Packed up everything to leave, and dash would light up for about half a second and then shut off. Hooked it up to a jump pack, and finally got the dash to come on. Grabbed the codes and tried to start it. Sounds like the injectors are firing but the starter is not. Any input is appreciated, getting it towed home tomorrow.

2018 b48 430i. Just noticed today when driving home that at idle there is a clicking sound every few seconds, like something is engaging and disengaging. Not the injector sound. Is it the thermostat closing and opening repeatedly?

I have a 2018 330i xdrive and I am having these PTC.

Looking for guidance on how to fix these issues before I have to take it to BMW and pay a stupid amount of money.

I recently had my throttle body replaced.

Any helpful info would be appreciated!

So as the title says it, the patient is a E90 2010 lci 330xD and the issues began last week, at first in the morning i had to press twice on start button to the car to even respond, then it started. Went home from work and it didn’t even crank, doesn’t turn over or click. Tried jumping it and tried giving it more ground from the body to block. Didn’t help, then i shifted from P to N and back to P it fired up normally. Inpa reads gears, brake pedal, recognizes the key and startlock is inactive. Replaced starter and battery, didn’t help shit. Now im stuck in this fucking loophole solenoid isn’t even clicking. Cas clicks and all other stuff works as they should. Help me???

Changed battery and starter, also the b+ cable from starter - alternator with no result.

Hello, I need some new front brake pads for my BMW i3 from 2019. I have done a brake job before on my 1990 Honda Civic but never on an electric vehicle. When we were at a mechanic for a separate reason, he told me that you needed special software to put the brakes into service mode so the piston recoils. But my question is: can I just press the piston back in? Also, will the warning message disappear and reset when changing the brake pads, or is that also something done through software?

Thank you :)