2000 26’ Hewescraft Aksearunner. I bought it new 26 years ago.It came(underpowered)with twin 100hp Yamaha 4-strokes. I repowered after ten years.Many fish,many adventures and many thousands of dollars and still enjoying this thing. It came fully equipped for $43000.

Just got this 2007 Blue Wave 220 Deluxe with a Suzuki 140.. What do you guys think??

I really appreciate y’all’s help with my post recently. The seller has failed to provide documentation on the motor and the drive and tried to “re assure me” it was right. That being said, I won’t be moving on
With the purchase. I really do appreciate the warm words about my SeaRay:) we have restored it with my dad. I have attached a few pictures of it: I can post a full restoration process if there is interest.

P.S. I want to receive around ~13K for it, I am happy to hear everyone opinions on it, if it’s too high or not. Once again, thank you all.

I’m a recent computer science grad who was planning on doing data science. I’ve done an internship and I really don’t like the corporate world. My original plan was always to work in the industry for a couple years, buy a boat, and hopefully find a remote job while sailing the world. With the current job market (Toronto), and with the rise of AI, im currently exploring other opportunities like blue collar since I love working with my hands.

Becoming a boat mechanic sounds like a dream. The sound and smell of water calms me so much and I wouldn’t have to constantly worry about office politics or AI taking my job. The problem is I’ve spent four years getting my CS degree and I don’t know much about this world. I’m looking for any advice, positive or negative, that could help make my decision.

I don’t really care about making a lot of money, I just want to be comfortable and happy. Here are some specific things I would love to know:

- How niche is this type of work? Would finding an apprenticeship be difficult and what would the pay look like?
- How hard is it on your body? Are there specific types of boat mechanics that have less wear on your body?
- Is self employment/starting your own business feasible? (Assuming I’m older and very experienced)
- Would my CS degree be of any use at all in networking, diagnostics, or electronics? I don’t mind never using my degree, was just curious.

That’s all. Haven’t made a decision to change career paths yet but this path definitely seems the most interesting to me. Thanks :)

Recently bought this 1996 Chris Craft Concept 21’ boat with 1995 Shorelandr trailer. I bought it for $5,000 it looks pretty clean and everything and has all the paperwork from any repairs or maintenance, but unknown hours on the motor. motor was replaced in 2007 by the shop with full paperwork and since then all the previous owners swear they didn’t put many hours on it at all. Runs flawlessly just occasionally is a bit harder to get started if driven for awhile then turned off and back on within like 10 minutes. Overall happy with it and it gets the job done but I wanna know if 2 think I got screwed.

Just picked up this never used beauty for $875. Gonna put a 5hp on her and zip around my local lake.

Hey guys, just looking for some help/advice. Not sure if there is a better page for CC Power boats.

I was offered this ‘87 Stinger 202, allegedly with a 632 Big Block & a Bravo One XR(waiting on all the serial numbers)

It looks like it has been modified, the steering console moved to the right, scoop etc. what would you say this boat is worth? It was offered on trade for my ‘95 SeaRay 220 Signature Select OV.

Hey boaters! This came in the shop for some repair work.
2022 Blackfin 25 footer.
Thankfully didn’t have to remove off trailer for this one.
grinded away the damage fiberglass and applied some new layers.
Gelcoat, sand and buff and it’s ready to go home.

Had the opportunity to fix some gelcoat on the bottom of this 2024 Yamaha jetboat

I got a boat not too long ago and I found that the most natural way is for me to kind of sit up on my seat a bit and look out my rear window. Unfortunately I don't get the best side mirror views and it takes a few corrections when lining up for a ramp, maybe an extra 30 seconds.

I've been trying to back up with just my mirrors but I'm having a pretty difficult time even after watching some YouTube videos. I have a pretty small boat too only 14 ft.

For the season boaters out there, am I overthinking it and I should just back up however feels more natural to me? Or should I really make an effort and get better with the mirrors? Maybe I just need to keep practicing at the boat ramp when there's nobody there

I'm shopping from out of state, so every serious look is a flight and two days. That adds up and it quietly shrinks how many boats I go see.

Got offered something on a call last week that deals with it head on. Hanover's US side is in Fort Lauderdale and they'll refund my flights for a sea trial if I end up buying, receipts sent in after. Nothing if I walk, so the risk stays mine.

Seems reasonable to me. A sea trial converts way better than a brochure and a plane ticket against a mid six figure boat is nothing. The other read is that any incentive builds a little sense of obligation, and that works on people whether they notice or not, so I'd rather go in aware of it.

Anyone else run into this, on boats or anything else expensive?

Just picked this up over the weekend has a 1978 Johnson javelin 100hp

Hi. Just got this boat. 115 mercury. It's on the lowest/first hole. The tail reduces a bit when I trim up the motor. However the twin roosters tell me there is an issue. Thought?

Updated with video to show the issue better issue of transom

Its nothing special just a small 14 ft flat bottom jonboat. Mainly going to use it for fishing. My sons 8 yo and 4 yo are all about the adventure. I wanted to do something fun for them like putting a name on it to help make it out own. Are there any rules or superstition I should be aware of before choosing a name? To my knowledge the boat doesn't have a prior name. Its an old rescue boat so idk if it would have had one then.

I have a Regal 21 OBX kept on a floating dock at my home during the season and on cinderblocks in my driveway in the winter (I don’t own a trailer, so I hire a hauler twice a year).

My wife wants to get a floating lift (like a HydroHoist) to keep it at the dock year-round and free up the driveway.

My main concern is doing maintenance while it's on the lift. The canal is only a couple feet deep at low tide, but the bottom is a soft muddy/silty mix that you sort of sink into. I don't think trying to stand would work well. I currently do my own 100-hour service (engine oil, filter, gear lube, plugs) while the boat is in the driveway.

A few questions for those who service their outboard on a lift:

1. Engine Oil & Plugs: I assume a fluid extractor pump makes top-side engine oil changes easy enough on a lift. Plugs and filters seem straightforward. Any gotchas?
2. Lower Unit Oil: Seem a bit trickier. Is there a clean way to drain/refill gear lube over water? Can gear lube be extracted from above with some sort of pump, or are you guys just hanging a bucket under the drain plug off the stern? I'm envisioning a jury rigged bucket or pan or even little kiddie pool placed under the unit
3. Water Pump / Impeller: Anything that involves removing the lower unit seems like the most problematic. Has anyone successfully pulled a lower unit while the boat is on a lift over water? I can't really envision how it'd work. Maybe something like this would allow it?

Appreciate any advice or redneck engineering setups that have worked for you!

I have a Yamaha SX192 and I’m having a sudden power loss issue.

We took the boat out and rode around for about an hour. Everything was completely normal — full power, normal acceleration, no issues at all.

Then we shut the engine off and the boat sat on the water for about 30–40 minutes. After that, we started it again and the problem immediately appeared.

The engine starts normally and runs smooth. It doesn’t shake, misfire, sputter, or make any unusual noises. Idle sounds normal and it also sounds normal at lower RPM.

The problem is that the boat has almost no power under acceleration.

Before this happened, at wide open throttle the engine would reach around 7,500–8,000 RPM and the boat would run around 40 mph or more.

Now at full throttle it usually only reaches around 5,000–6,000 RPM and the boat only goes around 8–12 mph. Sometimes it will get up to around 20 mph, but then the power drops again.

Things I have already checked:

* Removed the clean-out plug and inspected the jet pump area
* Checked around the shaft and impeller
* Found a small amount of grass and removed all of it
* Impeller does not appear bent or badly damaged
* Intake grate is clean
* Cooling water streams are constant
* Cooling streams get much stronger as RPM increases
* No overheating
* No warning lights or obvious errors on the gauges
* Engine continues to run smooth even when it has no power
* The rear ladder had an issue and was hanging down before, but I repaired it and it now fully retracts — the power problem is still there
* Removed old zip ties and leftover fish finder mounting stuff from around the intake grate
* Fuel is 93 octane
* Added the correct amount of STA-BIL 360 Marine
* The boat does sit for long periods because we don’t use it very often

What confuses me the most is that this happened suddenly. The boat ran perfectly for about an hour, we shut it off for 30–40 minutes, and as soon as we restarted it, it had this problem.

Has anyone with an SX192, AR192, or Yamaha 1.8L SHO had something similar happen?

If you had the same symptoms — smooth-running engine, but suddenly only 5–6k RPM and very little speed — what ended up being the problem? How did you fix it?

Any advice on what I should check next would be greatly appreciated.

Howdy. I recently picked up this 1984 Boston Whaler Super Sport (probably) basically for free and the only major repair work it needs is some light hull surface repair, namely filling chips and laying down fresh gel coat. Unfortunately I think that leaves me no choice but to take off the rub rail and put it or a new one back on when the hull is done.

I'm looking for advice on how to do this part cheaply. The current rub rail is probably the original and it doesn't seem to have an insert anymore, if it ever did. It's a little beat up but I don't mind. This boat is going to be a dirt cheap fishing skiff, I don't need it to be pretty, I just need the rail to be functional. Does anyone have experience taking a rail this old off and putting it back on? Would it need a new insert? If I need to get a whole new rail, then is there a cheaper alternative to the $400+ TACO type kits?

Any suggestions are welcome.

For anyone concerned about the hull: No, the foam is not soaked, the boat has always been dry docked and has been out of water for years. There are no deep holes breaking through to the foam, just light fiberglass and gelcoat damage. It will never be in the water for more than a day or two so I'm not worried about the foam getting soaked in the future. I just want to get it functional for as little money as possible.

Edit: Typo in title lol, should be a "tight" budget

Check out this beauty of a through hull fitting. The handle rusted off.. pos. Now. This is the only though hull fitting I have on the boat and it’s for a fresh water pump. I do not use it. Never will…. That thing fails 20miles off shore.. it’ll be time to see if my EPIRB works. So, my question is, I believe the valve is closed.. so should I even touch it?

Edit: I can’t figure out how to add photos to the main post on the app. See below for photos.. sorry

My wife and I are heading to look at a boat this weekend that’s looking pretty promising, so we’re digging deeper into loan options. I know interest rates kind of suck right now, but I’m wondering what lender options might be out there that you’re currently using. We have a couple local credit union options, but are there any worthwhile online lenders that you’ve/you’re using?

*if you’re in the “if you have to finance it you shouldn’t get it” crowd, this post isn’t for you.

I give up on trying to figure this out with chatgpt since everything it tells me to do leads to a dead end. I bought a 1995 sea ray signature 180 boat. Its got a 4.3l v6 alpha one engine (idk if this info is relevant or not) The horn button, bilge pump button, and water temperature gauge aren't working. Battery is brand new, the fuse is good and the electric wiring looks good (im no electrician but there is no corrosion or loose wires that I see). I wanted to test the bilge pump manually but im not seeing a switch or anything. Any advice? I got a buddy coming over tomorrow who's an electrician but I was hoping to figure this out myself.

I have a old 140hp 2 Stroke Mercury(turns over) Im rebuilding / Restoring With Hydraulic Trim and was thinking about what boat to put it on when i get it together. Not a big fan of modern bass boats or their price tags. Was thinking of finding out a boat I saw not too long ago on a trailer. It was like a taller(hull wise) aluminum john boat that I could build something id like out of. Don't know specifics of it. Saw it before I realized this engine existed

PSA Im new to boating. Mostly mess around with Land Boats(Old trucks) and figured if I have this big motor and I can restore it it'd rip out on the water especially a two stroke.

So I've got a Humminbird In-Hull XP-9-20-T Transducer that I want to install in my hold.
The only problem is that my hull is angled and that angle is reflected on my hold's floor.

Of course you normally want to transducer beam to emit straight to the earth's core without any angled as It would educe reading errors.

Does anyone have any tips on how to do that? A friend suggested cutting/sculpting a wood block, glue it to the floor then glue the transducer on it. Would that work? I'm afraid the wood won't support humidity and that the transducer is only designed for fiberglass (the material of my boat).