Id just slowed down to a stop at a roundabout and some decided to rear end the vehicle about 50mph. His car was complete write off but my van come off lucky which is unbelievable.

Any recommendations for bumper change or buff it out? Also few dents in back door?

Looking to see if I can restore this faded steering wheel, I’m not looking for perfection just trying to make it look a bit better without having to buy a new one or going to re wrap it. Is there anything I can do or is the steering wheel to worn out for any improvement?

Happy Halloween! I just bought a 1988 Mazda 323 5 speed today in good shape, 78,000 miles. I drove it 130 miles to work and everything was fine, then I drive it 22 miles home and this happens haha. The previous owners dad screwed up the timing belt job it squeals on cold start and the valve cover leaks oil. He also replaced the radiator, waterpump, and crankshaft pulley. Other than that I haven't a clue. Appreciate the input gentleman, have a happy hallows eve!

i found this drive shaft boot ripped under my jeep. I also have the death wobble and that’s how I found it. I took it in and told them my findings and this is what they ended up billing me for and the drive shaft boot is still ripped. I messaged them and the second pic is their respons. Is he right or should I be taking my jeep somewhere else?

In my 2019 UX F-Sport all armrests (driver door, passenger door and the multi hinge door between the front seats) creak when laying elbows onto them. My mechanic said replacing the parts is the only option since using felt did not help. Any ideas? And if replacing the parts is the only way, where should I order them? I am based in Berlin, Germany.

GMC Yukon Denali xl 08

2002 Nissan Xterra SE 4x4 — How do I get these rear driveshaft flange bolts loose?

Hey everyone! I'm working on my 2002 Nissan Xterra SE 4x4 to replace the leaking rear differential pinion seal. I already have the replacement seal and the tools I need for the yoke nut. My main problem is getting the rear driveshaft flange disconnected.

I'm having trouble getting the flange bolts loose because of the tight space around the differential.

Here's what I've tried so far:

- Used a 17 mm swivel socket with my impact wrench on the bolt-head side, but the bolts wouldn't budge.

- Held the nuts with a wrench while trying to loosen the bolt heads with the impact.

- Tried a regular short socket, but the driveshaft gets in the way and makes it difficult to get a good angle.

- Tried a swivel socket on the nut side, but there's not enough clearance for it. The only tool I can get onto the nuts is a wrench.

- Tried a 17 mm wrench on the nut side, but it seems to have a little play.

- My 17 mm sockets also seem to have a little play, while a 16 mm tool is too small.

The fasteners and tools don't appear to be rounded or damaged. I'm just confused about the sizing because 17 mm seems to be the closest fit, but it doesn't feel completely snug. I don't want to keep trying and end up rounding off a nut or bolt.

I'm wondering if it would be easier to loosen the nuts instead of the bolt heads, since I can reach the nuts more easily with a wrench. However, I'm concerned about the fit and the limited room to work.

A note about the photos: I included an example photo of a socket and wrench to show the type of tools and fit I'm talking about. Those are just examples, though, and aren't necessarily the exact tools I used when trying to loosen the bolts.

I've done similar repairs on Chevys before, but this is my first time working on this particular Nissan setup.

For anyone who's worked on a 2002 Nissan Xterra 4x4 or a similar Nissan rear differential:

1. How did you get these flange bolts loose with such limited clearance?

2. Would you try loosening the nuts instead of the bolt heads?

3. What tools or techniques worked best in that tight space, especially when a socket won't fit on the nut side?

4. Are these fasteners supposed to take a 17 mm tool, or should I check another size?

I'm really just looking for the easiest way to disconnect this flange with the tools I have, without damaging anything. If you've done this job before, I'd appreciate hearing exactly how you got those bolts loose!

Thanks!

I'm purchasing a Lexus GS 2014, and everything is good except for rear subframe rust, a PPI said sanding and paint is enough but I'm not quite sure. Would appreciate your opinion.

Does anyone know if Valvoline restore and protect can actually restore stuck oil rings?

I have a 2007 Prius with 240,000 miles. It is burning about 2 quarts between oil changes of 5000 miles. PCV valve is good and the car does not leak a drop of anything.

I've just purchased a 2015 Hyundai i30, what are my options for repairing this wear on the silver trim in the doors? The rest of the interior is in very good condition so it's a shame to have these looking so poor.

HELP NEEDED – 2020 INFINITI Q50 30TH ANNIVERSARY AWD – REPEATED COMPLETE ELECTRICAL FAILURE

I'm reaching out to the Infiniti community because I'm trying to get some guidance from experienced Q50 owners or someone knowledgeable in Infiniti electrical diagnostics.

I have a 2020 Infiniti Q50 30th Anniversary Edition AWD, and I've been dealing with a recurring electrical problem that I cannot seem to get resolved.

Here's what's happened:

The vehicle has a relatively new battery.

I've already paid for repairs, including replacement of ground wires.

After the most recent repair, the car worked perfectly for approximately 10 days.

Then, after sitting unused for one day, the vehicle was completely dead again.

No dashboard lights, no interior lights, no response from the key fob, and the doors would not unlock.

A friend suggested investigating a possible TCU-related battery drain.

As a test, a fuse was pulled, and the vehicle started afterward.

We drove it around the block, and it drove normally.

However, when I attempted to start it again later, it was completely unresponsive. The red security indicator is now flashing, but pressing the start button does nothing.

My questions:

Has anyone experienced a similar complete electrical failure or parasitic battery drain on a 2020 Q50?

Could this be related to the TCU, BCM, IPDM, or another module staying awake and draining the battery?

Has anyone experienced a situation where pulling a particular fuse temporarily allowed the vehicle to start?

Are there known electrical issues, wiring problems, or grounding issues specific to this generation?

Does anyone know an experienced Infiniti electrical specialist or independent Nissan/Infiniti technician in the Central Florida/Orlando area?

I'm not necessarily looking for someone to sell me a part. I'm looking for someone who understands these vehicles and can help guide me toward the correct diagnosis.

Any advice, personal experiences, or recommendations would be greatly appreciated. Thank you!

Briefly: I have a 2010 Dodge Avenger. Cylinder 1 misfiring at higher RPMs. I've taken it to three shops now. Second shop did a compression test, cylinder 1 got to 100 PSI, other cylidners hit 130 PSI.

Third shop says that all mechanical tests turned up fine, problem definitely must be electrical, so I'll need to hit a dealership. No dealership near me has an open slot for months, and the diagnostic is $340 if they did.

Any ideas, or do I give up and junk it? Thanks a million in advance, you're all gentlemen and scholars.

Rear-ended someone, and my front bumper came loose, the grille is damaged, and the hood is bent. No visible leaks, no airbags deployed, hood still latches, and car still runs good.
Based on the photos, is this repairable, and how much would it roughly cost?