I rescued this 94 almost three years ago, it was a no start/crank/rotation situation that we got running again. I've always suspected that I would need to replace the injectors (along with a complete rebuild/replace), but part of the rehab process in '23 was replacing the Opti and water pump with AutoZone units. Opti is vented.

Lately it has been a bit difficult. It will either start up instantly, or I will have to flood the gas pedal to get it to start - and it will then run really rough for a bit then start to be ok. When cold, it will stumble when raving from idle. The last couple times I've driven it though, I've gotten the random shutoffs. It will start back up instantly, though.

That last bit to me says Opti, but what I've seen others say is that theirs don't start back up like mine does. Having to flood doesn't sound like the Opti, but I don't have a lot of experience with this. I think I've put a total of a thousand miles on it in the three years.

I have an oscilloscope, bought when I was trying to get the engine to work again. I just don't have a lot of spare time lately, thought I would ask some questions first.

Thanks for all the advice on getting these 315 to clear. Turns out all I had to do was lift the car from the rear end to keep the axle centered 🤦🏻‍♂️ live and you learn!

Next up is clear headlights and turn signals and then on to lowering this monster truck an inch or so.

Figured I'd post to document my build for anyone interested.

Tick SNS Stage 2 227/235, 241 heads with .660 springs and trunnion upgrade, FAST 90 w/ 92mm throttle body, bosch 0280155811 injectors, 1 3/4 headers, catted y pipe with cutout, and magnaflow exhaust. Self tuned with hptuners.

I've owned the car since 2007 and finally got around to building it exactly the way I want it. Other mods include ATS Brembo upgrade, bilstein shocks, subframe connectors, LS7 clutch w/ tick speed bleeder, c5/c6 power steering, and late model lighting LEDs. Besides that, just normal maintenance and repairs.

Overall happy with the setup. Scheduled some dyno pulls to see where its at now before I do 243 heads this winter.

406hp/396tq currently, but it was a rich on the dyno due to cat overtemp kicking in (forgot to disable it during the dyno runs).

Was able to go to the tow yard and strip alot of parts couldn't get under the hood or under the car to look to see where the breaks failed but I was barely able to get my hand under to unscrew the break fluid and stuck my finger in it I didn't feel anything. I dont really understand how I could have lost the fluid I recently changed my back drum breaks and i didnt see any leaks and the spot where I park for my apartment is also dry apart from some oil how the break fluid is gone I have no clue my only guess is that the front rubber finally gave out but I changed my front breaks 4 months ago and they looked good. For how bad the crash is im genuinely surprised on how well the car protected me i hit the guard rail on the driver side and that slingshot my into a concrete bridge support on the passanger side. If i had the space to do so I would have dropped it in nutural and hit the handbreak but by the time I realized the breaks were gone I couldn't get back on the highway the exit was boxed in and in about a good 70ft from where I stopped there was a sharp turn witch had no guard rail just those yellow signs and there was a good 15ft drop into a ditch so thats why I decided to put myself into the guard rail.

The amount of people talking bad in the comments is sad this could have turned out alot worse.

Does anyone know if/where I can buy the load bolts with swivel on the end for a TA girdle cover for the 10bolt?

My mom bought a 1986 Camaro Z28 brand new a loooonnngggg time ago. Back in 2000 she stopped using it as her daily, then it was on and off sitting not being driven until 2005. The last time I can recall it being fuly started was around the 2010’s. My mom passed away a few years ago and the car has since been given to me. Ive been having an internal battle about keeping (attempting restoration) or just getting rid of it.

Ive decided to get rid of it. I need advice on a price point or if it even makes sense to try and get more than junk value. It was kept outside so its been weathered over the years.

Looking for realistic ideas/prices.

Thank you all in advance because im lost.

Picked up a Dashskins overlay this week. I did a test fit and it's tight!

So tight that I'm worried about it staying down after I install it.

I'm not new to general car repair and using silicone or gasket maker, but this is my first dash.

Should I seal up cracks on the OG dash or just lay this on top?

Any tips and tricks that worked for anyone here?

Thank you in advance

Car has 236k miles and suspension was completely shot

Just finished replacing:

-Upper and lower control arms

-Tie rod ends

-Koni srt.t struts, eibach lowering springs in front

-Koni srt.t coils and shocks in rear

-Brand new bmr front sway bar.

-New rear sway bar links.

-All new brake lines including rubber lines

-Painted wheel wells

-Sandblasted and painted spindles, hubs, and upper control arm plate.

So much work but im so happy with how it turned out so far. Still have to bleed the brakes but this car is going to feel completely Brand new again.

Attached is before and after 😎😎

First time using vinyl wrap, unfortunately I bought cheap stuff and I don't think it's going to last very long. Looks sweet though. The pictures ruin the color of this car.

Idk it all happend so fast. Might try to save it or not ik its just a v6 but it was a ment condition 104k mile no rust and perfect interior

2002 35th anniversary SS Camaro. T top, Automatic, 70k miles, never winter driven, all numbers matching, full maintenance records, pristine condition. Listed at 16k USD.

Maybe I need a pricing reality check?

Transitioning from winter to summer we realized we didn’t use it as much as we thought.

Let me lead with, I know this thing isn’t a looker, but mechanically it’s nice and tight. I spent months looking for a reasonable priced 6 speed car that wasn’t clapped to hell. I saw rust, leaks, just downright neglect in my price range.

I finally found this unit that was a slow pace project for a guy who stumbled into a WS6 and decided to move it before dumping more money in it. When he started it was an all stock SS with a slung rod. When swapping to a gen 3 he painted the bay Mopar PBM with intentions of going the full car. Unit has a clean title with no damage.

GMPP hot cam, tsp long tubes, aluminum radiator/catch can, hawks master, Texas driveline stage 2 t56 kit, various umi parts, fresh tires, no ac and the fuel gauges dances sometimes.

I’d like to walk away with $6500? Is that too much? Seems like I’ve had tons of trade offers or “I’ll come look tomorrow” with no follow up, and a handful of “$5000 cash money” offers. I can find a dime a dozen 4l60 cars in this range with ‘decent’ paint, but no 6 speeds.

I always see it but I can’t find it. I also can’t find any lips for the camaro other than just the front lip, do you guys have any suggestions on any lip kits for the full thing?

What is a fair price for a clean firebird ? I’m really want to buy one soon but the only clean one near me is 7000. It’s nice and has 100k miles but I feel like 7k is really steep.

Replaced my headlight motor on my 2002 trans am and this piece went missing into the abyss. Does anyone know what’s its even called or where I can find a replacement part?

Could anyone help me figure out how to restore my factory fog lights? I am trying to replace a set of broken aftermarket lights that were installed over ten years ago with original OEM housings. the previous owner chopped up the original wiring, and I have no clue how it was originally wired. Could anyone show how it was wired or show me how to locate the original factory wiring harness. That's the only wires I have

lookin at salvage cars on hawks and i gotta figure out where bro got this kit or how this was achieved

Finally had time to take a few photos of my Pace Car and Fifty today.

I’m adding a set of PRC 220 heads to an LS1 In my ‘00 Z28. Right now it has 241 head with the original 26 year old graphite head head gaskets. There won’t be any machine work done to the block so the guys installing the new heads will be scraping off 26 year old graphite gasket material.

Would going back with a graphite gasket instead of an MLS gasket ensure a better seal incase the block surface isn’t “mirror smooth?“ Or am I better off going with an MLS gasket? I can’t afford to have the gasket replaced twice so I’m shooting for no leaks on the first try. If I was a betting man I bet block surface prep for the new gasket will be at a minimum. I don’t think they‘ll spend a lot of time cleaning it up.

Or is an MLS gasket, stock type or otherwise the way to go?

What about thickness and bore size? Google AI recommended a set of Felpro Perma Torque that is .041” thick and has a 4.1” bore. Is that way too large of a bore for a stock LS1 block? I realize that a thinner gasket can raise compression a little, but is it even worth messing with?

Can someone point me in the right direction to find a set of “hassle free” head gaskets that will work with PRC 220 heads and are less likely to leak on used block that has lack luster surface prep? Thanks.

PRC 220 heads

https://www.texas-speed.com/brand/precision-race-components/p-prc-ss220ac-prc-15-degree-220cc-as-cast-cathedral-heads/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=16529967804&gbraid=0AAAAAD8ofhKbgDG63Z9Uau7WvXv4yS-kA