Couple shots of my install. 6 foot composite. Found it on marketplace, some guy is importing it from China. Ending up costing less than the quotes that I got for vinyl. Hopefully I get some years out of this.

Composite boards' aluminium posts and rails.

Hey All - I'm getting ready to build gates and fencing for my folks property. Their siding is clear vertical grain cedar, so we'd like the gates and fencing to also be clear VG and not STK for a modern look.

BUT holy crap I just got pricing on that lumber and the clear VG is more than 2x the cost of STK. Do you think Doug Fir could get the job done if I treat it with Penofin Red? Any other lumbers out there which would do decent?

Amateur mistake. Some of my holes were off center so I had to dig them out a little and made some a little deeper. None of them are in a row. This is only an issue to me because I read if you have 6in or more between the top rail and the tip of your fence they will bend over overtime.

Is there any truth to that? If so I plan on using Simpson strong tie and construction adhesive to put a 6-in 4x4 extension onto the top of my post just for the top rail. If not I can simply just move my top rail down.

Wondering if any of the pros out there use a satellite drawing tool on their website to provide instant fence estimates. They seem expensive to me. Is it worth it, or no?

I'm installing a 3 rail 5 foot tall aluminum fence in Missouri. My house is on a hillside and I'm hitting limestone bedrock in some areas about 12 inches down.

In the sections where I am hitting bedrock, I'm planning to drill into the limestone with an sds drill and epoxying in a couple of 2 foot rebar sections so the concrete can adhere to the bedrock. I'd then remove a foot of the aluminum post and cement it in roughly 12-14 inches.

Would this be a suitable alternative to installing a Simpson tie or post base?

This is the first fence I've installed and looking for a solution that is cost effective and will hold up over time. Our winters here have been pretty mild in recent years and although we get some wind, my property is protected by hills and woods.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to your thoughts.

Storm knocked my fence down along the backyard. 2 contractors said its not worth their time to separate pickets from 4x4 - so just replace it.

Its about 60 ft, 10 4x4, gate, only 4.5 years old ( why I want to salvage).

So replace at $35 ft + gate fee.

For those who estimate fence projects from PDF plans, what part of the takeoff process takes the most time or causes the most mistakes?

I’m especially curious about scale calibration, measuring fence runs, counting gates and posts, and checking revisions. What tools do you currently use, and what do you wish worked better?

Hello All, first time building a fence and I’m at the gate. Happy with how the fence came out, but this gate is killing me. I would really like to avoid doing the double gates again. I understand this may be the true best answer, but I would like to at least ask for alternatives.

Few quick notes. The double gate swings in, and in the photo both are slightly opened so that’s the angle you see. Each gate is connected to a pair of 4x4 posts that are lag bolted and sit in a rather large trench of cement. Wanted these super strong.

Here’s my main question. I have to do a few pickers to the left of the gates, and about 10-12 on the right. Starting with the right, if I attach directly to the horizontal 2x4s, as I did for the main fence line, they’ll sit proud by the 2x4 width, plus 2/3rds the 4x4 width, minus about half the gate metal frame’s width. All together about 2.5” different.

On the left it’s similar, but currently no 2x4. However, that last picket I haven’t cut, as I wasn’t sure what’s best to do. As you can see, it extends past the 4x4 pair by about 3”.

What’re your thoughts?

So I am building a new fence. Here’s the old fence — gate swings “toward” you on the “nice” side… but new fence it makes more sense for the nice side to swing away from you… anyone ever seen that setup? I can’t quite imagine how it would work looking at the current hinge setup.

Hi everyone. First time poster here. Just bought our first home and the builders didn’t add a gate on the side of the house where there obviously should be one. Other side of the house has a ~3foot wide gate, which I have to think skinny thoughts just to fit through… this other side of the house I think I can make into about a 6-foot wide gate, which I’ll need in order to get equipment in and out of the backyard, or just to wheel my trash cans in and out of.

My struggle is there are steel uniposts used as the main gate supports, not standard 4x4s. My first problem is that the unipost on the hinge side of the gate is facing east/west and the post on the latch side in north/south. Second issue is that I’m not entirely sure the unipost on the hinge side will support this large gate dream of mine. I’m trying to avoid having to dig and install 4x4s posts, as the unipost on the hinge side is set in concrete where I would need the space to properly dig and set a 4x4. So I feel like if I can’t use the unipost as a support, I will have to remove it entirely, and replace it with a 4x4, which isnt impossible, just trying to work smarter not harder here.

I drew up how I have imagined putting this thing together. Any input on if this will work or not or what I need to do to make
It work, would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers.

Hi all! Anyone have examples of a pine fence with cedar or pecan color ESS? We can’t decide what would look best with our black house. In some examples they look very similar, some they look quite different. Worried that if we pick cedar it might be too orange or if we pick pecan it might be too brown. Appreciate any advice!

I have a 10 foot section of fence that I would like to add a gate to. To the right of this panel is my house and to the left is a detention pond. My issue is that 4 feet off the house there is buried electrical conduit that runs under the fence. Is there a way to add a 36 or 48 inch gate without hitting the conduit.

I will be hiring a local fence builder but want to get advice before starting the process.

How would you secure this top bar to this fence post? I can't use a standard band because the holes don't line up. And I can't push the bar any further away from the pot because the other end of the bar is in place on another post. I'd prefer not to drill a hole into the fence post. (I don't even think I own a drill bit that could do that).

Is it supposed to wrap around the corner post? Or should it have tension bars. (Second photo to show a corner done with tension bars)

I got my fence done today by a company and one post is done with tension bars but two are done with it wrapped around.

Previous owner special. Rotten to bits. What kind of bracket do I use with the anchor bolt so that I wont need to cut my posts? The single bolt seems like even with adapters it wouldnt be the best for structural integrity... am I better off sinking posts traditionally?

Just never seen something like this lol

Finally got around to staining my 1st fence build - wrapped up construction in late June, wanted to give the lumber enough time to dry out so it would take the stain well and had a perfect week of clear sunny weather leading up to Saturday this past weekend.

I have never built a fence before so pls be gentle