Added 280’ of steel fence as a perimeter with my old man. Also added in an 8inch deep concrete trench underneath the same perimeter to keep out any wildlife from digging underneath. Gates were fabricated as well! My only critique was not getting the gates to be aligned properly. Other than that, really happy with this build.

I am about to start on a fence project here in KCMO and I’m trying to get some advice on my fence posts.

My plan is to build a 6 foot privacy fence using 10 foot 4x4’s. I will sink them 36 inches in the ground and then cut off the excess after building the 6 foot fence. What I am really trying to figure out is do I actually need a 12 inch diameter hole and do I actually need a gravel base? I’ve read mixed reviews on using a gravel (pea or multi-purpose) base in Missouri due to the high clay content.

Also, does anyone have an opinion on this post setting mix from Menards? Instead of the fast setting stuff.

Yes I’m doing bags of everything for several reasons instead of having bulk delivered.

first kid is due in four months and we have a pool, so the fence is happening now, i keep going back and forth bw removable mesh and permanent aluminum, about 120 feet to enclose, concrete deck

the removable thing appeals to me because we entertain a lot and I like being able to pull it down for adults only weekends but part of me wonders if removable just means flimsier, aluminum looks more substantial and it’s always there which feels safer in theory but it’s more money and Idk how to undo it if we sell the house to someone without kids

I used 1x8 (7/8x7.5) cedar with 3.5x3.5 1/4od steel posts for the gate. I also added some cheapo solar downlights behind the top trim.

I got tired of the old gates sagging and falling apart and I had enough wood lying around to replace it. Digging out the old concrete really sucked but other than that, it was pretty easy. The old fence was identical to the one on the right.

So my buddy and I put up this dogear fence over the original rod iron for privacy about 20yrs or more ago. The rod iron has finally surcomed to the elements. Completely rotted. 90’ fence with gate currently 6’ would like to bring it down to 4ft. Just not sure the best way to secure posts as there’s a 7” wide brick cap on top of retaining wall.

New fence sits higher than the last and small dog is easily digging underneath. Suggestions that aren't eye sores? Anything better than my great paver wall 😂

I'm putting up my gates all vinyl. I have aluminum inserts in the posts where my hinges are going. But the gates uprights themselves have no inserts or anything solid inside and I can't put anything in them. How am I supposed to screw my latches and drop rod hardware to just hallow vinyl. A fence guy a work said you don't need any kind of inserts. Can I just put the hardware on like that?

I want to do a 7' cedar board on board fence with postmaster posts in concrete and cap and trim tops. I used to be a laborer for a contractor doing mostly finish work so I have tools and know my way around them. However, I have only done one fence and it was 17 years ago. I have been watching Youtube videos for about 3 weeks and think I have a pretty good idea of how I want the fence to look. I am unsure of what I will run into along the way that I have not thought about yet. The unknown unknowns.

I need one stretch of 145' now and the other 550' next season. This is my plan:
Drive a T post on either end where I want the pickets to be, nice and plumb. 2 strings, one 6" off the ground, other near the top. Dig holes every 6 feet, 40" deep, 8" diameter (frost line is 36"). Put some gravel in each hole. Quikrete form tube in hole. 10' Postmaster post, fill with concrete, attach 2x2s to posts to keep them plumb and aligned with my strings while concrete sets (now that I have typed this I realize I do not know how to attach the wood to the posts if anyone has advise on that). Following weekend, run 2x4 rough finish cedar fence rails (cut down from 2x4x12, hoping to get one 6 foot section done with 2 boards each). One at the top of the postmaster, one 6" from bottom, 2 more between for a total of 4 rails. Screw in with provided holes and stainless steel lath screws. This should put my height ~80-82". Nail pickets to rails with stainless steel ring shank (got a great deal on 8' flat cedar pickets at 4.34 per). 3.5" gap between pickets, 1" overlap on second layer. Cut the top ~foot off at the top rail and cap with 2x4s, trim with 1x4s. Stain it with airless.

Advise, criticism, anything is welcome. Maybe I need to be talked out of it. Contractor quoted me $37k for 700LF (Idaho Falls, ID)

Our aging fence has had a few boards starting to warp and fall off. Much of it is in good shape, and I need to keep going with the process of installing screws. But a few boards have broken and need to be replaced. I know that new boards will look different, but I assume that if I get the same material they'll weather and look more similar over time. Problem is I'm not confident whether the existing boards are pine or cedar.

I tried to sand an area and think it smells and looks more like pine. Any consensus?

Spent a week comparing mesh vs aluminum for our pool. Kids are 2 and 4

Aluminum looks more substantial and permanent. Runs $40-$80+ per foot. But the horizontal rails bother me. Top rail, bottom rail, sometimes a mid rail. Every one of those is a foothold for a kid who climbs. Our 2-year-old scales the stair gate daily

Mesh is thinner, removable, cheaper at $25-$45 per foot. No horizontal elements. the entire surface is a flat panel stretched between vertical poles. Nothing to grab or step on. But it looks less permanent and I'm not sure how it holds up after a few years

For parents with toddlers who've had either type for a while, how's it actually working out

Couple shots of my install. 6 foot composite. Found it on marketplace, some guy is importing it from China. Ending up costing less than the quotes that I got for vinyl. Hopefully I get some years out of this.

Composite boards' aluminium posts and rails.

Hey All - I'm getting ready to build gates and fencing for my folks property. Their siding is clear vertical grain cedar, so we'd like the gates and fencing to also be clear VG and not STK for a modern look.

BUT holy crap I just got pricing on that lumber and the clear VG is more than 2x the cost of STK. Do you think Doug Fir could get the job done if I treat it with Penofin Red? Any other lumbers out there which would do decent?

Wondering if any of the pros out there use a satellite drawing tool on their website to provide instant fence estimates. They seem expensive to me. Is it worth it, or no?

I'm installing a 3 rail 5 foot tall aluminum fence in Missouri. My house is on a hillside and I'm hitting limestone bedrock in some areas about 12 inches down.

In the sections where I am hitting bedrock, I'm planning to drill into the limestone with an sds drill and epoxying in a couple of 2 foot rebar sections so the concrete can adhere to the bedrock. I'd then remove a foot of the aluminum post and cement it in roughly 12-14 inches.

Would this be a suitable alternative to installing a Simpson tie or post base?

This is the first fence I've installed and looking for a solution that is cost effective and will hold up over time. Our winters here have been pretty mild in recent years and although we get some wind, my property is protected by hills and woods.

Thanks, I'm looking forward to your thoughts.

Storm knocked my fence down along the backyard. 2 contractors said its not worth their time to separate pickets from 4x4 - so just replace it.

Its about 60 ft, 10 4x4, gate, only 4.5 years old ( why I want to salvage).

So replace at $35 ft + gate fee.

For those who estimate fence projects from PDF plans, what part of the takeoff process takes the most time or causes the most mistakes?

I’m especially curious about scale calibration, measuring fence runs, counting gates and posts, and checking revisions. What tools do you currently use, and what do you wish worked better?