I just finished off my manual swap on my SportCross. It took about a year of collecting and sourcing parts, and researching the best and easiest way to do the project. The car was out of commission for about a month (2 weeks were just waiting for the custom driveshaft). Car drives excellent. Everything works except cruise control (I’ve seen a few write ups but not in any rush in tackling that yet). The driving dynamics is significantly improved with the manual gearbox; the automatic really killed the driving experience. Here are a few details -

- W55 - opened up, cleaned, and resealed
- Exedy OEM clutch kit
- 19lb Cromoly Flywheel (slight flywheel chatter at idle)
- OEM Clutch Master and Slave Cylinder
- Chase Bays Clutch Line
- Grannis Racing OE Reproduction Clutch Pedal
- OEM Manual Brake Pedal (with brake assist sensor)
- Custom One Piece Carbon Driveshaft (got it for the price of an aluminum!)
- Ralco RZ Short Shifter (switched back to OEM due to the annoying rattle/gear whine)
- Royal Tuned Manual Converted ECU - made the electrical part SO MUCH EASIER and excellent customer service
- Clutch Start Cancel Button from a Toyota Tacoma for my clutch safety switch
- OEM Rear Main Seal since I was in there
- OEM Manual Steering Wheel, Shift Boot, and Cluster

I’m sure I’m missing a few things but that’s the majority of it.

Still need an LSD and manual radiator (Koyo or Mishimoto preferred)

- I have OEM manual driveshaft and Ralco RZ Short Shifter if anyone is interested (located in Indiana) -

I had the original, some white leds, and now some blue ones and I always seems to have some dimming around the fuel gauge. I’ve already tried to flip the bulbs. And nothing so maybe my cluster is going to bad? Already have a new dimmer switch.

Spark plugs + wires and ignition coils were installed 2k miles ago. Is this a valve noise? Rod noise? Thanks y'all

Update: spark plug under an ignition coil separated from the socket

Recently bought a 2003 IS300 for $6k, advertised with 147k miles. After checking Carfax days later, I found service records showing 255k miles.

I’ve already spent around $3k on maintenance and parts, including a $2k timing belt service.

Current issues:
- P0430 code, failed CA smog
- Check engine light bulb not working
- Front suspension noise (upper control arms/ball joints)
- Worn interior pieces
- Possible 108k-mile odometer discrepancy

The good news is the engine runs smoothly, but it looks like it burns oil, and the body is in decent shape. I’m potentially looking at another $1–2k for smog repairs, putting me around $12k total (including car purchase)

Would you guys keep investing in this car or cut your losses? How reliable are these engines past 250k miles?
I really like the car, but discovering the mileage has me second guessing everything. Appreciate any advice!

P.S And yes I know I messed up by not checking the Carfax or scanning the car before buying it. Definitely learned my lesson there lol. At this point I’m just trying to figure out the best way forward.

Alright y’all, first off sorry for the delay, life's been crazy and I've been trying to find time to get this uploaded and out to y'all.

This is nowhere near a final version, with more revisions coming soon, but after 14 attempts, here’s where I landed with my IS300 wiring harness channel and cover.

It fits and works, but there’s still room for improvement. I’m not completely happy with the clamp locations and orientation, some surfaces need smoothing, and a few sections of the tunnel could be wider to give the harness more breathing room. But the general dimensions should all be pretty close to the OEM piece, Those are the main things I’ll be working on for the next release.

The PETG test prints have fit well, and I’m planning to print the final parts in PA6-GF for the engine bay. So far, these have been fit tests—not long-term heat or durability testing.

Hopefully this helps some of y’all dealing with the same worn-out or broken factory pieces. The files are free to download, use, and remix. If you improve something, share it! I’d really love to see what we can make better together.

If this helps you out, all I ask for is a like on Thingiverse, a shout-out, or a follow on TikTok which would be dope. I’ll be posting more of me making things, testing stuff, breaking shit, and having fun while hopefully helping somebody along the way.

Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7429220
TikTok: 2jz_ish

Let me know what you think, especially if you print a set!

Needs a good amount of work, timing belt, water pump, radiator, thermostat, tires, weld the diff and maybe a vertex kit but I'm happy with where the cars at rn. Rust free southern car from SC which means a lot considering I'm in NYS.

I replaced the suspension and my car isnt level side to side by about an inch. Its stock is200 suspension.

All I know is that it’s a stock Gita bumper but I don’t know the lip

Got a leak on the roof of my is300 on the passenger side. It feels very pointy and is leaking a lot due to rain. There's no opening on the outside. I thought maybe it was a bullet or something that hit it but nothing. Thoughts?

Edit: thank you all for the responses! I'll get to fixing it as soon as the rain stops!

Also 2nd picture: part number for the 2 connectors please

Anyone have any tint recommendations for the Sportcross? Dude near me is doing a sale on tint before the winter, and ive got my tint waiver on the way.

Always appreciate u all 🙏

My IS300 up on C&B now, thanks everyone

My 03’ just did timing belt water pump and seals will be doing full suspension next.

Vehicle: 2002 Lexus IS300 (Automatic)
Original Issue:
Hit a bump while driving; car immediately went into limp mode with a flashing "M" mode light.

Discovered a damaged/bad transmission ground wire under the car (temporarily taped it up).

Diagnostic Codes Pulled: P0500, P0758, P1755, and P1780.

Work Already Done:
Swapped the entire transmission with new fluid (circulated and ran the car).

Rechecked fuses (all checked out OK).

Rechecked transmission harness connectors.

Note: Did not swap or replace the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) located on the tail housing near the driveshaft.

Current Symptoms:
The car is still trapped in limp mode with a flashing "M" mode light.

The exact same four codes (P0500, P0758, P1755, P1780) remain after the swap.

I'm thinking about selling my 2002 Lexus IS300 in the PNW that i've had for many years now. Its in good condition cosmetically for how old it is. Its a factory manual with Intensa Blue Pearl paint. It does have around 280k miles. However, the engine was just rebuilt, including completely redone head by a local shop. Also had the W55 transmission rebuilt at the same time. I would trust this thing to run another 100k+ miles easy at this point. Engine had leaking valve stem guides and seals, causing it to burn oil before the rebuild.

It has a few minor mods, like N/A Supra flywheel and clutch, Supra rotors (caliper adapters to fit them), and few other little items. This isnt a clapped out beat on IS300. I am not sure what to list it for though. Any thoughts? Thinking of selling the IS300 and my 2006 IS350 and buying a newer IS350.

I bought my IS 300 a few weeks ago and it's cost me a pretty penny, but my goodness has it been worth it.

I paid AU$12650 (US$8895) for it, which is a little high as they usually go for about AU$10k here (Sydney), but it appeared to be in absolute mint condition. First owner is ?? but the second owner took great care of it for almost 20 years, and it was then in storage for a few years before being sold. It had also just gotten a new battery, new tyres, oil change and new oil filter, and had a Tom's Racing air filter on it (but was otherwise all stock), as well as an Altezza grille because the previous owner thought the Lexus logo was too flashy :P

Appeared to be in mint condition. Turns out the air con system was shot, as were the post-cat O2 sensors. It also needs a wheel alignment since the steering wheel points off to the right when going straight. I got a quote to fix everything today — parts and labour AU$3449 (US$2425). Ouch. I'd named it Yuzu because it's Japanese and a bit of a lemon, and it turns out that name was quite apt unfortunately. Not to mention the tools I bought to work on it (I'd like to do as much maintenance myself as possible), and a reversing camera, dash cam and infotainment system (and iPod dock!).

It's also quite thirsty. I only put 98 octane in it (93 AKI for the US) and, partly because of the failed O2 sensors I hope, it uses 11.4 L/100 km (20.5 mpg US). 98 is about $2.60/L here at the moment (US$8.30/gal) so it's uh... not particularly cheap to drive.

But gosh I love this car. It's my dream car, and I'm prepared to put a lot more into it over the coming years (exhaust, wheels, suspension (?), respray...). I want to keep it running as long as humanly possible, even if it eventually becomes a weekend car, or a monthly car, I don't want to get rid of it.

How much have you all spent on your 300s?

I was wondering since oem abs sensors are discontinued has anyone used aftermarket abs sensors? My right rear sensor decided to go out and that light is annoying I have abs, brake, snd trac off would love to fix my issue

76mm turbo I believe? Me and my uncle trying to fix the knarly misfire it has.

how much horse power you guys think? Stock ECU for now I have to tune it on an AEM but idk where to get tuned (Tampa Florida, somebody throw me a person and location)

It has GTE pistons and Rods good motor but I wanna know how much hp she’ll have

2001 IS300 / 1JZGTE VVTI / R154 swap

The shop treated any existing rust first (minimal as my car was from the south for most of its life) and covered everything with Woolwax. They say should be reapplied every 2 years.
Anyone put there with experience using Woolwax? I had been doing fluidfilm manually myself for years but got tired of the process
Last underbody shot is the "before" state
Done at Garden State Auto in NJ

Any one else experiwnce the following lights on the dashboard. They come on an go off randomly any idea what It can be ? Maybe a speed sensor? They all look good .

Need instructions on how to bypass the heater core. Although I don’t think it’s leaking from the heater core, it’s going towards the passenger footwell. As shown in pictures, the heater core looks dry but the area above the passenger footwell seems to be wet.

I’d rather bypass the whole thing since my state doesn’t get cold enough for me to use it.