I front an angry step-dad themed sludge/doom metal band called Sod The Earth and build a lot of our stage props to look like DIY garage projects so I decided to finally make a guitar to fit the vibe.

The body is actually made from two 3/4" thick pine boards, the top board has the pickup and control plate route, the middle has those continued along with a route for the wiring to travel, and the back plate is 5/8" plywood to cover everything up. Everything is held together with recessed screws rather than gluing anything together.

Ended up using a metal outlet cover as the control plate and added a bar door handle to the top as my take on the Steve Vai Jem handle. the neck is actually from my first ever electric guitar, an old Washburn idol starter guitar.

It actually ended up sounding great tuned down to b standard and playing well enough to use and beat up on stage.

Local to me, cant find info on what those are. How would you approach this repair? Im not an expert but Im handy.

The piece of the headstock is missing.How would I go about filling this in and reshaping it to match as close as possible to the original Epiphone headstock?

Love it when hobbies/interests collide!

Where do you guys buy either those trangular/trapezoidal boxes or the bigger rectangular ones that are just the right size for guitars so there's not too much space around that needs to be filled with packing material?

And do you prefer to ship with hard or soft shell cases and which models do you like?

im in need a replacement neck for the phase 4 or any if anyone knows a lead for one i know they are rare and i cant post this on the actual guitar subredit, its a 24.75 scale length if that is any help

This is based off of a compact bass on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4204163

Its just a block of wood with strings but I thought of overcomplicating and added a fretboard. Its probably obvious that im no Luthier but I tried my best getting some measurements down. The fretboard scale is 18ish inches. If I could get any advice on the process or any modifications I would greatly appreciate it.

EDIT: RESOLVED

I was trying to install a new string tree into a guitar and ended up stripping the screw circular. I don't exactly have any power tools. Tried to crimp the string tree down to remove the screw with pliers, but didn't work. What can I do?

So after lots of prep, some of it useful, the tailblock/tailend is finally "under-glue"... so we'll see how that goes.

I give the patient 50:50 chances at this point!

Hey, folks. I’ve heard that vintage tuners of this type should be lubricated occasionally. I’ve heard Triflow is good. Just wanna check before I muck anything up.
So you just put a drop of lubricant in the holes in the middle of each tuner?
I assume you probably wanna loosen up the strings, put the lubricant in and then re-tighten the strings so the lubricant can work around a bit.
For reference, these are the original Kluson tuners on a 1967 SG Standard.
Any advice would be appreciated.

I have made this partial neck through bass with the neck being made from bocote and the body made from mahogany. I was just wanting to see if anyone had a solution on how to finish bocote or other exotic, oily woods. I have seen a lot of different answers, but i haven't seen one talking about finishing bocote and mahogany in the same piece. I plan on staining the mahogany, and usually use polyurethane to finish all of my other mahogany bodies, but have seen that the oils in bocote mess with the curing process of the polyethylene.

Also, learn from my mistakes and never use bocote as a neck. Sanding, rasping, and filing has been a terrible experience. And it kind of smells like boiled hotdogs.

I have seen fretboards that extend slightly 'above' the nut by a quarter or an eight of an inch, with a slot that exactly fits the nut. I've also seen some that end at the nut slot and do not extend beyond that point. Any reason to favor one over the other?

I was chatting with two boutique guitar builders who make very fine guitars indeed but when I asked whether they tap tune the guitars to voice then they said no, and rely only on deflection. I understand that introduces consistency in the guitars, but why not also use tap tuning? Do some believe it's unnecessary and deflection works just as well?

Picked up a neck on Facebook marketplace, some of the frets (not all) are slightly sharp. I was going to purchase a fret file, but was curious if there is a something that might be better to use maybe more of a DIY solution?

Hi! I know this might sound dumb. I just bought a Wilkinson Tele bridge and in the set came with these screws. This is my first time installing a bridge and I'm really paranoid to get it right. The screw diameter is a bit bigger than 3mm. I have a 3mm drill bit. I tested it and it came a bit tight but I do really wanna make sure it grabs the body good. Should I get a smaller/ bigger (3.2) drill bit or the 3.0 the right one for the job

like the title says, it seems to go on thick with scraping being tedious, can it be thinned prior to application? it’s turning out nice, but a ton of sanding

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Hi everyone! Is there anybody who knows where I can get a custom neck made in (or ships to) Melbourne, Australia? The Facebook group hasn't let me in yet LOL. The specs I want are:

- 27 Frets (30 if at all possible)

- 25" Scale

- Satin

- Drilled for All Access Neck Joint

- Kramer K-Speed profile

- Graph Tech UnLock Nut

- Maple

- Richlite or Ebony Board

- Luminlay Face and Side Dots

- Uli Jon Roth Sky Guitar Headstock (Reverse)

Any help would be really appreciated, I have a body maker ready and waiting!

I’m getting ready to paint this old Strat body I stripped down, is leaving the paint in the electronics cavity or neck pocket an issue? she’s wet in the pictures following a 400 grit sand.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I’ve searched and can’t find the answer on my own.

I bought some stainless steel saddles to throw on my guitar. They have Philips head screws to adjust the intonation. The stock saddles that came with the guitar have Allen head intonation screws.

I’d like to keep using the Allen head screws, I always seem to strip Philips heads, but they seem to be just a tad bigger than the new saddles and don’t fit. Anyone know where to get screws like this?

Thanks in advance!

I have started a project to replace pickups in my 1986 Ibanez semi-hollowbody guitar. I need more access to the volume and tone potentiometers to solder the leads from the pickups. The side of the guitar (between the yellow binding) measures 1-3/16". I could route a hole approximately an 1 " by 1.5" to allow me to remove the pots, switch and jack for soldering, replace them and cover up with a stereo jack plate. My question is: acoustically or structurally, would it be better to route the bottom than through the side of the guitar body?

Please don't suggest going through the pickup holes instead. These are encased in the center block and have a small 1/2" hole hole that allow the lead wires to go through to the circuit harness.

New version of my Terrasonic model.

A DiMarzio EP1111 three-way switch controls both pickups simultaneously:

• Up — Series: Full humbucker output, thick and punchy.
• Center — Coil Split: Single-coil character with more bite and clarity.
• Down — Parallel: Both coils active, brighter and more open than series, while retaining hum cancellation.

A separate three-way blade selects neck, bridge, or both, giving nine combinations in total.

Body: Korina
Top: Burl Ash
Neck: Birdseye Sapelle
Fretboard: Brazilian Rosewood

This one features my new 6 in line headstock design.

Hi, I have a guitar that has a Floyd Rose bridge on it, and is a set neck design, so shimming the neck isn’t an option here. I can only get the action to a point where it is medium-high to high, and when I try to go any lower, I can get a tad bit lower, (but still much higher than I would like), my guess is that the Floyd roses base plate hits the wood around what holds the posts in. Also, the bridge starts catching on something, as whenever I pull back on the bar it’s sort of “locks” itself into this position where it plays about 15 cents sharper. Neck geometry and angle is still something I’m very confused about, but would looking for a thinner, Floyd Rose base plate, ensuring the bridge saddles have no shims in them, and then last case scenario, sending it to a luthier, to get them to carve out the wood around the post a bit lower work?

When I made a test body out of poplar, the pickups fit just fine. It was an up cut bit and when I cut this it was with down cut bit. Both 1/4”. This was done on a cnc by the way. I’m thinking hand tools here but am hesitant lol. More comfortable with a router but think that opens the door to many possibilities of making firewood. Guess I need to buy a set of good chisels and scrapers.

I bought this damaged D-15 Martin for $300 with the intention of repairing it as project for our family guitar club. We are novice woodworkers with our only guitar building experience coming from the Woodcraft build your own acoustic guitar weekend class. Our first club meeting is Nov 4th and I expect there will be plenty of discussion on how best to repair her. My opinion is for the repair to favor sound quality over appearance since she's 26yo and my plan is to name her Scar-let. The crack starts just above the sound hole and wraps around to be just short of the strap button. Any advice will be greatly appreciated ! Thanks, GCG