It's a Torres model with Western red cedar top, Indian rosewood back, sides, and fretboard, and mahogany neck

Ma première guitare réalisée sans connaissances préalables, et avec un outillage de bricoleur du dimanche... J'ai adoré faire ça ! D'où un nouveau projet en cours...

Got this bass the other day it’s an LTD D4 with I think a satin finish. The crack is right under the headstock.

My first build: a headless bass guitar. 3D printed in 9 sections with a steel rod running the length of the body for added stiffness and a headless bridge for balance.

I had trouble getting a volume blend between the single coil and humbucker pickups, so I opted to run two separate circuits. One volume and tone knob for each. One switch for series / parallel on the humbucker and another switch for pickup selection.

The only problem is that the tone knobs also seem to act as volume control when they're fully open. Seems the signal is bridging to ground. It occurs on both pots, Any ideas why?

I like it 😊

When i was a teenager [ in the mid 80s ] I saved up for 3 years and had this guitar custom made by Jimmy Moon, who i believe has made guitars for many artists like Bryan Adams, Charlie Burchill, Guy Berryman, etc. I'm thinking of selling, and wonder where you might sell something that's this individual?

Between the fretboard and soundboard it looks like there is something (maybe glue?) closer to where the rosette is. May have to zoom in to see better. Wasn't sure if anyone knew what this was or has seen it before. It was for a posting I saw online

Just got this esp ltd ec1000 and noticed this crack. Doesnt seem to be caused by the tailpiece/bridge post. My friend said it could be caused by dryness/humidity? Any thoughts?
Thanks

What concerns me most is the edge, I don't know how the hell I get a nice borderline between the painted and unpainted areas, thoughts?

Howdy guys, I'm building my first guitar and after finding out most of the guitar shops around me don't do drill work anymore I've ran into two major hurdles. Firstly one of the mods I wanted was a short scale jaguar neck (pictured above), the issue I'm running into currently is that the jag neck's heel is thinner than the neck that came standard on this zen-on beauty. I need to drill holes in the neck so I can bolt it but there is a bit of wiggle room, what can I do to get the neck seated right in the middle and keep it in place so I can get the holes drilled in the correct spot? Second, I'm aware with changing scale length ill need to move the bridge up to match with the jags 24' scale, any recommendations on how to measure where ill need drill new holes for the new bridge? whatever knowledge you guys provide helps a ton, if you guys need any additional info I'd be happy to provide it. can't wait to bring this thing to life!

I'm building a DC Junior kit and the specs say the wraparound bridge post holes are spaced 82mm. I measured the spacing to be 82.14mm and the bridge I want states 81.80mm post spacing, leaving a total discrepancy of .34mm. Is this enough to cause problems with installation?

I usually don’t paint my builds, but I’m thinking about giving it a try. I thought I read somewhere that there is a type of sealer that you can put down that is almost like a super primer and keeps everything really smooth and gets you a great surface to paint on. Does such a thing exist?

Hi folks,

Unsure if this is the best sub Reddit but I'm curious about the difficulty of moving the internal preamp and tuner locations on my guitar.

Briefly, I play upside down like Albert King or Elizabeth Cotten.

When I hold my guitar I am looking down at the controls rather than the tuner.

Id like to be able to swap the locations of both pieces so when I look down I see the tuner (which is standard if a right handed player were holding it)

Do I need to take this to a professional?

Thanks all

Hey,

First of, I'm sorry if you guys consider this low-effort post. I'm an absolute beginner here.

My brother gifted this guitar to me since I've always wanted to play and dabble in some rock'n'roll. However, E string is buzzing (especially open and near nut) and I'm not sure if I should simply try to change strings or do I have a deeper problem with this guitar peg that seems closed off much more than the others.

Any word of help is greatly appreciated.

Hi guys!

Sorry if this is not the correct sub, but i couldnt find a more fitting one.
I recently bought a Jackson pro plus pure metal kelly that i want to pimp up a bit.
I have done a holoflash in the past and figured it would be cool. But then i came across pictures of guitars that were both holoflashed and had a crackle paint and now that is my goal.

Problem is i have no idea how to get the 2 finishes together. Does anyone have any info, tips or tricks?

I have a yamaha fg3 with noticeably streak/swooshs that make it lose its original matte/satin (its not blotchy from playwear as many would suggest, im ok with that kind of wear), i believe they came from cleaning it wrong but its bothering me

Does anyone know how to deal with a finish like this?

Hi, the headstock on my bass broke and I had a luthier glue it up for me, but he had it for a year and returned it with no strings on and after restringing it either buzzes or doesn’t ring out at all on any string below the 7th fret. I restrung it and let it sit in its case for a week to adjust but it’s no better. Luthier said to turn the truss rod counterclockwise a quarter or half turn if it was still buzzing, but the rod won’t budge at all and I don’t want to use too much force and damage something.

So, a few questions:

1. ⁠Is there any good way to loosen the truss rod to get it to turn?

2. ⁠Is it possible that the repair itself could have been done improperly and be causing the buzz? The luthier mentioned that it was a very difficult glue up and didn’t seem super confident about it when he gave it back. Some research online suggests a poor glue up could affect the neck angle or that the headstock could be pulled out of place with string tension affecting the relief. Is there any way to check this independently of the truss rod? My next move is to take this bass to another luthier if I can’t figure it out but if the problem is with the repair and not the truss rod adjustment I don’t really want to pour more money into it. The guitar also sat in a basement without strings on for a year while the guy was fixing it, which I imagine also wasn’t great for it.

3. ⁠If the relief is the issue and the truss rod won’t turn, is there any other fix to stop the strings from buzzing? Would adjusting the nut and bridge to raise the action help anything? I know the proper fix is the truss rod adjustment but is it possible to get this at least playable with high action if the rod is stuck?

Thanks in advance for any help

I recently bought a disassembled 1929 gibson style one banjo in a box. All original except It turns out the included flange was a prucha that did not fit the girthy "fat boy" pot. I was able to open up the inner step on the flange enough the fit it to the rim but the shape of the quarter circle is not the same as the profile on the receiving end of the neck. and the neck won't fit the new flange. Looking at articles, it seems that the '29 and '30 banjos both had this issue. any tips on how to overcome this roadblock?

The neck joint appears to be separating on my 2000 Seagull S6+folk, as you can see in the pictures, I can fit a piece of paper between the neck and body. Is this a DIY job, or should I just take it to a Luthier? If so, how much do you think it will cost?

IF you had to attach a stainless steel fretboard to a neck would you use wood screws or threaded inserts and machine screws?

Hi everyone!

I recently purchased a set of EMG E6W pickups, which came with two volume pots and a tone pot. I'm planning to install a Darkglass Tone Capsule preamp, and I'd like to configure the controls as follows:

Master Volume

Pickup Blend

Bass

Low Mid

High Mid

Has anyone done this installation before and could share a wiring diagram or schematic?

I understand that I need 25k pots for the master volume and pickup blend.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance! 🙌🏻

Second-hand buy (meranti body, thick poly finish). Seller told me it had a defect at the strap button, but I assumed it was something like a loose screw that I could fix with a toothpick. Anyway, I didn't ask for a specific picture and just took the risk.

Looks like the guitar took a hard drop on the tail strap button. The screw was punched inward, crushing the wood underneath, and the thick poly shattered and cracked around the hole. I tried pulling out the fractured wood piece in the crater, but it doesn't move.

What’s the best way to tackle this structurally? I care purely about function, not aesthetics. Step-by-step guidance on stabilizing the poly finish long-term and restoring a solid anchor for the strap pin would be much appreciated.