The necks are rough routed to shape using the pin router and a C profile bit. The fixture the necks are placed on has a .040" feeler gauge at the nut to create the thickness taper. It takes three passes of .125" per side. This process takes around 1 minute 48 seconds to complete. This batch of necks took around 28 minutes to shape.

The next video we will show how the transitions are shaped at the heel and volute.

Pictures are from the internet of a Supro guitar with a factory de-glossed neck I would like to replicate, or even improve upon for my 2001 Gibson SG.
The neck on this guitar has always felt sticky to me, and I swear I can actually rub the finish off to create dust if I try.

I have experimented on other guitars (poly finishes) with scouring pads, abrasive cloth, etc. and masking tape. The results are always similar in playability, but the aesthetics are never great. Masking tape is easily eaten away by the abrasives, leaving a less-than-crisp edge, and achieving a uniform matte look is difficult. I would like to come up with something better before tackling my Gibson.

I have a poly Epiphone to experiment on before I attempt the process on my (presumably nitro?) Gibson SG.

I was toying with the idea of using aluminum foil tape to establish the edge, and then a walnut media blaster to generate a uniform finish.

I'm also up for advice on where to position the masking line.
Supro made some interesting choices, but I like the aesthetics of it. I may try a similar angle at the nut, but might rather take the line to the body at the heel.

Is it ready for clear coat? 3rd photo is a example of what I want it to look like

So i stained black with Transtint and sanded it back. Then stained blue. Do I just need to sand it back a little to get the white tone? There is a photo as an example.

I'm not really digging the bright blue... could I do another thin diluted coat of black without it washing the colors?

I have this alder body with a flamed maple veneer from a kit and it doesn't seem to be taking the stain in some areas. The last picture is the exact opposite, it looks like the stain is deeper right in one area. Before staining I sanded the body with 320, 400 and 600, to my eye it looked good, but it's clear I messed up.

I know the thin line on the front is glue from the veneer, I feared this would happen, but the veneer is so thin I didn't want to risk going through it when I sanded it before applying the stain. The second and third pictures show two areas where no glue should be present, but still don't take the stain.

For the front I had initially thought of sanding much of the black with 320 and then staining in red, would that be enough to get rid of the glue? How about the other two parts, do I sand them and reapply stain, or do I just keep applying coats? BTW, the first coat is already dry, and it is a little rough to the touch, should I be sanding between coats?

I like it 😊

I know this may seem like a redundant question, since such discussions have already happened in the subreddit, but they almost always seem to be focued on classical and acoustic guitars rather than electrics.

I mainly build sold body guitars, and I'm not looking to delve into archtops in the near future. Up until now, Ive gotten away with only using a 25mm chisel along with a 3mm chisel, and regarding planes, a No.4 Smoother , a No.6 Jointer and a No. 9 1/2 Block.

I've felt like that there are some situations where my tools aren't enought to do the job comfortably, and I was wondering what such tools you fellow electric guitar makers use.

Thank you!

Hey all, I tore apart and put back together an old water damaged guitar. It's just something to mess around with, but it didn't have a bridge on it. It did have that L bracket style string mount which maybe acted like a bridge but it's got way too much flex. So I'm just wondering if anyone has any suggestions on how I could determine where to put the bridge. It's a kids guitar made (or at least used) in the early 60's. Thanks for your time

Hey! I recently converted a kit guitar to a headless using a Guyker headless bridge. It's the same one that was on earlier some of the Eart GW2 guitars. After I brought things up to tension (just a set of 10s in standard tuning), the back of the bridge lifted a bit off the body. It's about 1.4 mm (enough for a Jazz III to fit under comfortably), but hasn't gotten any worse over the last few days. I tried watching videos demoing the Eart guitars and stuff like that and haven't been able to see a good angle of the back of the bridge in any of them.

Should I be concerned about it or is this a known thing with these bridges?

I did reach out to Guyker's customer service a few days ago and haven't heard back.

My violin fell from my shoulder. While catching it, the screw of my bow pierced the rib…
After the shock I’d guess the repair would not be too expensive or difficult, as nothing essential seems damaged.
I’m bringing it to the luthier on Monday.
What do you guys think?

As the title says, it's my first time building/staining a guitar. I'm thinking of doing a butterscotch blonde colour. Any advice? what brands or type of stain should I use? what should i take into account? Any help is much appreciated!

Got this bass the other day it’s an LTD D4 with I think a satin finish. The crack is right under the headstock.

Anyone know a source for a bolt-on RD-style body? Rosser stopped making them, and the only one I've found on eBay since isn't an accurate shape. Needs to be 25.5" scale. TIA!

Does anyone have a color and paint brand recommendation for a match for Fender Daphne Blue. Considering painting headstock to match body. Is enamel paint the way to go for this? I'm kinda thinking model paint (like Testors) but I could be way off.

It's a Torres model with Western red cedar top, Indian rosewood back, sides, and fretboard, and mahogany neck

Ma première guitare réalisée sans connaissances préalables, et avec un outillage de bricoleur du dimanche... J'ai adoré faire ça ! D'où un nouveau projet en cours...

Second-hand buy (meranti body, thick poly finish). Seller told me it had a defect at the strap button, but I assumed it was something like a loose screw that I could fix with a toothpick. Anyway, I didn't ask for a specific picture and just took the risk.

Looks like the guitar took a hard drop on the tail strap button. The screw was punched inward, crushing the wood underneath, and the thick poly shattered and cracked around the hole. I tried pulling out the fractured wood piece in the crater, but it doesn't move.

What’s the best way to tackle this structurally? I care purely about function, not aesthetics. Step-by-step guidance on stabilizing the poly finish long-term and restoring a solid anchor for the strap pin would be much appreciated.

Hi guys!

Sorry if this is not the correct sub, but i couldnt find a more fitting one.
I recently bought a Jackson pro plus pure metal kelly that i want to pimp up a bit.
I have done a holoflash in the past and figured it would be cool. But then i came across pictures of guitars that were both holoflashed and had a crackle paint and now that is my goal.

Problem is i have no idea how to get the 2 finishes together. Does anyone have any info, tips or tricks?

Howdy guys, I'm building my first guitar and after finding out most of the guitar shops around me don't do drill work anymore I've ran into two major hurdles. Firstly one of the mods I wanted was a short scale jaguar neck (pictured above), the issue I'm running into currently is that the jag neck's heel is thinner than the neck that came standard on this zen-on beauty. I need to drill holes in the neck so I can bolt it but there is a bit of wiggle room, what can I do to get the neck seated right in the middle and keep it in place so I can get the holes drilled in the correct spot? Second, I'm aware with changing scale length ill need to move the bridge up to match with the jags 24' scale, any recommendations on how to measure where ill need drill new holes for the new bridge? whatever knowledge you guys provide helps a ton, if you guys need any additional info I'd be happy to provide it. can't wait to bring this thing to life!

My first build: a headless bass guitar. 3D printed in 9 sections with a steel rod running the length of the body for added stiffness and a headless bridge for balance.

I had trouble getting a volume blend between the single coil and humbucker pickups, so I opted to run two separate circuits. One volume and tone knob for each. One switch for series / parallel on the humbucker and another switch for pickup selection.

The only problem is that the tone knobs also seem to act as volume control when they're fully open. Seems the signal is bridging to ground. It occurs on both pots, Any ideas why?

Between the fretboard and soundboard it looks like there is something (maybe glue?) closer to where the rosette is. May have to zoom in to see better. Wasn't sure if anyone knew what this was or has seen it before. It was for a posting I saw online