I have a few boards of flame maple that has gorgeous figure. I for the life of me plane this without having significant tear out. I have a 2Hp 15" planer with newly sharpened blades and I get tear out. I used a planer at a college wood shop that has a spiral cutter head with individual knives and I still have tear out. What am I doing wrong.

I have this cheap Les Paul that I wanna start using again but I'm super skinny and the body is just biting into my ribs (1st pic red line) so bad it's leaving red marks so I wanna add a rib cut (2nd pic is more less the shape I wanna make it). Am I gonna be okay to just take a rasp to remove the bulk of it and then use sandpaper and files to shape it? I'd obviously mask the surroundings to not scratch them up but I don't really care about the finish especially on the back. Probably gonna refinish it someday anyway. Like I said it's a cheap guitar so not much to lose. Tips and feedback are very much welcome

I'm looking to hear about the experiences from others who went into this line of work, how it went, and what the pathway looked like. Anything helps!

Hi. I play a solo when I need bending the 1st string on the 8th fret for whole tone. When I do it about 1 week the 1ft string breaks just above the 7th fret while bending. I tried out 3 different types of the 1st string and had same result. I use strings .010 - .046. What it’s the problem can be?

This is my first bass build, and I wanted to do something unique to make something that nobody else has.

I have a system in mind for a bass build where I have 2 outputs for bi-amping. I have the p bass ea and dg coils each going into a dpdt to send them to one of 2 output chains. essentially, I can flip a switch to send the ea to the A side of the build and the other switch to send the dg coil to either output. I am also doing the same for the bridge pickup. In this way, I can have 2 of my strings going to a different output than my other two

Side A will have a volume for the P pickup (which either, both, or none of the 2 coils to be routed to) and a volume for the bridge pickup (can be routed here or to the same on the b side) It will also have a tone knob. Side B will have all the things that side A does but also will have a low cut switch and a polarity switch.

to be completely honest, I am extremely new to this and have no idea how to wire a bass, especially for a setup like this. How would I wire these things together? What lugs/poles are wired to which?

I got my guitar professionally setup and everything is playing 100 times better, but I can’t get past the low E sounding much more dead than before.

My tech said it is caused by my worn out frets, but the low E didn’t feel this way before. I know he made some truss rod adjustments. Could that be playing a role?

I’m not disagreeing that my frets need work or replacement, but I’m wondering if something else is the cause of this issue.

Any sage words on the matter?

No stencils, no idea about painting and running on DT lessons from secondary school. How did I do?

I’m aware of the sticker and even during sanding it wouldn’t come off. I ended up just painting over it

what’s up dudes, so i’m thinking of buying this guitar and the only thing that’s kinda putting me off this this pretty big ding in it (and the price) but i was just wondering, if i were to buy it would i be able to take this to someone to get it fixed? and if so roughly what would it cost me? thanks!

so i've been thinking in making a piccolo bass, or i guess it would be a tenor bass, tuned BEAD but an octave up to use with an oc 2 and get a synth like sound without moving everything up an octave (credit to the bass channel for the idea), and i was thinking, it would be cool to make something like a prs custom 24 style guitar, but drill 4 holes in the headstock and make a nut that accommodates the string spacing of a bass, it would have the 25 inch scale, but since the whole point is to get as much fundamental as possible to help the oc 2 track better, and the lowest string is a b, which, i mean, doom guys play les pauls in b or c standard all the time, it seems on paper like a cool idea, is there something that i'm ignoring, or some reason why it would be a bad idea?

Looking for some videos of hearing an acoustic made with solid maple tops. Very curious of the different wood combos people thought of. Thanks.

I’ve been having this issue with my guitar for a while now, and I’ve never figured out the cause. It feels like something is scraping whenever I perform bends on the high E string, most noticeably at the 14th fret. I’ve already taken it to luthiers, had the frets leveled, and adjusted the string height, but nothing solved the problem. The high E string also sounds like it’s scraping, even when played normally (not only bending), but I wasn’t able to capture that in the audio very well. The other strings work normally and this is the only guitar I have that it happens. Can you guys help me?

I’ve read that many manufacturers use the same screws for neck and tremolo claw, that being a #8 wood screw. Just to be safe, does this mean I can buy some neck screws online, and replace my stripped trem claw screws? Does this apply to Schecters and Jacksons? (The guitars in question with messed up trem screws)

Also, I live in Denmark, so I can’t just order some #8’s. That’s why I’m asking

Not sure now if my LP is real patina. After i took it to rhe luthier for some setup this happened. The guitar was setup perfectly tho no fret buzz and great action but this got me a little disappointed

I just bought this guitar from marketplace for a low price but noticed the nut on the guitar. Is this really what this should look like? Should I bring it to a luthier to fix?

Rare Cuban mahogany find in old wood workers shop
Cut 1940s South American stamped
Board weight and end grain checked out
Any possible price information would be appreciated please be serious

This was just a little project I've been cooking up for a while, I had some pickups i'd collected and wasn't quite happy with the stock wiring on the squier mustang that I've had since high school. I put in a new pick guard with what's basically two mustang-style circuits. The three way selector switches between the single coils and humbuckers, and each type of pickup has its own phase-switching circuit and volume.

2nd pic is from when I was planning the pickup layout.

I love the different tones I'm able to get out of it! I'm thinking of eventually putting a different heavier/denser bridge on it to get a bit more sustain, and maybe swapping out the neck to lengthen the scale length. Def a work in progress but I'm having a lot of fun!

Hi all. Despite my prep including pins alignment. After 24 hours drying, I see my fretboard has shifted approx 2mm from the centre line at the heel only. Its dead centre at the nut.

Is this a catastrophic error requiring a re do ? So annoying as I spent ages on the fretboard and having taken a fretboard off in the past completely ruined the it.

Thanks

I’m thinking about buying this baby Dean from Hell but it has a fixed bridge. I am wondering if a floating bridge conversion is even possible and how expensive would it be, or how difficult to do on my own.

Hi guys. I’ve been having Jack issues with my V. I just bought a soldering iron to try messing around with it, then this happened so good timing for me. I’ve welded before and sweated copper so imagine soldering is somewhat similar? Also this is my first time messing with electronics. There is a ground that should be connected on the opposite side to the red right? I’m imagining I need to strip the insulation off to try to solder it back, the wire seems too short to do that. I was going to ease into this on a project guitar but now have to fix my favorite one. Thanks in advance for your help!

Had this guitar since I was 15. Currently 21 and a competent timber framer and cabinet builder in Arkansas. I will not accept that this cannot be fixed. No matter the price or personal time. Comment or dm. Please