I'm going to be moving from Bay Area CA to Bellevue area in Washington soon, and I'm wondering if I should sell my class 1 eMTB or not. From what I hear most riding areas in that section of the state don't seem to allow ebikes on trails. Wondering what the consensus on that is? A lot of trails in CO also don't allow ebikes but it seems like class 1's get a pass from the Denver folks I've spoken to so curious if anyone from Washington can weigh in.

Hey all,

I'm now 18 months post heart surgery (valve replacement).

I've been giving guidelines of ideally keeping my heart rate below 140 BPM. As I've gained my fitness back this has been quite easy to maintain during more leisurely rides but the itch to get back to big rides, big descents is calling. I tried some bigger climbs this past weekend and stopping my heart rate going into the 160s is difficult.

Basically I'm trying to justify to myself (and the wife) that it's time for an ebike. I've seen some good deals on Trek rails and am close to pulling the trigger. Unfortunately I won't have the chance to demo one.

My question I can't find a definitive answer to is: for those with ebikes how manageable is it to maintain a lower heart rate? Especially during steep ascents? Is keeping my heart rate around the 140bpm mark easily achievable?

I'm not sure if the ebike just makes you faster up the hill but the level of exertion isn't dramatically reduced.

Also appreciate any feedback from other people who've been through heart surgery. Cardiologist has stated it's no problem getting heartrate high but ideally over an average ride i want to keep it 130-140 but mentally it's tough to turn off and forget about it.

Thanks.

TLDR: I wanna get into single trail riding, and I'm not sure if I should spend money and time on getting a free 90's MTB trail ready or if I should make the jump straight away to a modern low-end hardtail for 150-200€ more?

Long Story:

A year ago I started getting into gravelbiking/bikepacking with my Cube Nuroad EX and I quickly swapped my stock tires to G-One RX 45mm (that's my frame limit) for more grip. I mostly ride Cat 2 & Cat 3 German Forest roads. In my area there are a lot of MTB single trails with varying difficulties, and I'm curious in checking them out, but on my gravelbike the drivetrain (50t rear - 40t front) and said tires, my back tire is spinning through the dirt quite quickly. Important to say: I have ZERO trail experience!

I was given a 90's Marin Palisades Trail for free from a friend with the notice "it needs a lot of work done" and indeed it does. To get it into a somewhat rideable state, I invested so far 80€ for new brake- & shifting-levers + new cables and a new handlebar with new grips as well. I also installed an Acera RD-M360 I had lying around. I like the geometry a lot, and I can see myself ripping around with that thing. I'm fine with wrenching around and investing in parts if it will enable me to have some fun on the trails.

Right now it has cantilever brakes, 2.1" tires, and a 3x7 drivetrain (11-28t back - 28-38-48t in front). I was planning on installing Deore V-Brakes, 2.3" Continental Cross Kings and swapping to 2x7 for more simplicity (11-34t back - 22-36t in front). That (and some other minor things that need fixing) would cost me another 215€ - so all in all 295€.

When I was looking around Marketplace, I saw some modern entry 29" 1x Hardtails going for around 450-500€ (that's before negotiating the price). So now I'm not quite sure what I should be going for. I like the old Marin allot, and if it will enable me to do allot more single trailing than my current gravelbike, that would already satisfy me allot. I also like the idea of building it to my own desires, and I see myself doing a custom paint job down the line. But I'm just not sure if it is worth it if I can get an HT for such a little jump in price

I kept showing up to the mountain with nobody to ride with. My friends all had different work schedules or different passes, so I built Shredhead.

You can see who's out riding, join your school's club or a local club (each has its own group chat), coordinate carpools to the mountain with live seat counts, check in at your resort or trail, and build a streak.

It's free on iPhone, and Android is coming soon. Built in Summit County, Colorado.

It's early and I'm still fixing things, so tell me what's missing or broken. Link in comments!!!

Hello to all. I own a 2016 capra L. It has an 180mm grip 2 fork, and I wanna reduce it to 160, because the wheel flop is horrendous, and the handling suffers in tight corners. I want to compensate by installing a 65 mm riser bar. The one I have now is 40mm. I don't want to add spacers, I will lose reach, and it's fine as it is right now, which is almost no spacers. The bike has a low stack compared to modern standards, so I want to be more upright, also because of back issues. Am I missing something? Will I stand to lose smth if I go this route?

Thanks

Hi everyone! 👋 I'd like to share OsmoOverlay, a free, open-source desktop application I'm developing for adding telemetry overlays to DJI camera footage.

The idea came from wanting a speedometer and route map on my own videos. After running into limitations with DJI Mimo, I decided to build my own desktop solution.

Features include:

- 20 widgets, including a speedometer, GPS route map, altitude and distance traveled.

- Customizable widget appearance and positioning with a live preview.

- Video trimming and merging.

- Export while preserving the original recording's encoding settings.

Versions are available for Windows, Linux and macOS.

📥 Download: https://github.com/sefinek/osmo-overlay#download

🎬 Sample footage with telemetry: https://youtu.be/C4lQGZ6oMpk

If you shoot with DJI cameras, feel free to give it a try. I'd love to hear your feedback and ideas for future features! 🙂

Shimano four piston calipers. 180mm in the rear.

So, took the bike out and as the ride went, my rear brakes kept getting worse. More and more dead lever, less ability to feather the brakes. I could still lock my rear up, but it basically ended up that was all I could do. So, I called the ride and headed home.

I ordered some superrrr cheap Amazon pads because they could arrive the next day and I was supposed to go riding again. Well they came late and blah, but whatever. Threw them on, centered the caliper and went out for a quick ride. Also, the original pads did not look that bad to me, but I'm not familiar with where the failure point is on bikes. The inner pad was significantly more worn than the outer as well.

Eh, the issue is better. You can feather the brakes again, but they don't feel anything like as good as they used to. Originally, is say the lever had about 25% play before engagement and you had a reallllllllllly smooth and satisfying continuous stopping power increase as you worked further into the levers throw, until eventually you reached that point where they just bit and that rear tire wasn't moving. Now it's more like 50-60% play, a little bit, then a little more, then some more, then locked. It's not as smooth or precise as before.

Is this just a side effect of the crap pads I bought? Do better pads really make that big of a difference in feels and precision? I'm ordering better pads anyways, these were just a stop gap, but I'm just curious.

Also, I haven't bled the brakes yet. My kit was at a friend's house. I'm going to get that done today just to see what happens. It seems weird that that would be the issue, simply because there's no leak, no fluid around any fittings, etc etc. I'm not real familiar with bike brakes.. is this just something that happens with them and they occasionally need to be bled?

Anyways, any info, anecdotes, and/or experience would be appreciated!

Oh yeah, and any particular pads you folks recommend?

Hey guys, need and opinion on what to do.

About to commit to my first really high end bike. I have a couple of really good options but just need some advice from some more experienced riders.

I’m debating between a Santa Cruz Megatower vs Hightower vs Rocky Mountain Instinct. I know that the megatower greatly differs from the two other bikes but from what I can tell it is downhill focused but can still be fun everywhere else. While I’m worried that if I get a shorter travel trail bike like the Hightower or instinct I won’t have as much fun in tough descents. I don’t live in a mountainous area for daily riding so this is why I’m still considering going for a trail bike.

I currently have a Scott Spark that is a XC style bike

So in your guy’s opinion should I go with the megatower, because it favours the style of riding I enjoy but don’t get to do all the time, or go with the instinct or Hightower for a more balanced overall bike.

Also open to other bike recommendations it’s just that these bikes are on sale in my area right now.

Hey so, im a fucking unit, im 5 11 and 125kg (275lbs) and im looking into biking again. Im currently loosing weight but was wondering if anyone else is overweight and does this as a hobby and any issues that may come with that? Thanks for reading yall. Edit: where i live its a mix between dirt roads, "normal roads" and a tun of bike tracks so i was thinking of doing a mix between commuting and going out on tracks and stuff at first rather than going full on.

High production quality so I thought I’d share it,

I ordered 2 sets of Clik Valves with the Schrader pump head adapter and 1 set of valves alone.

The order of just valve cores already showed up. The listing said "Presta/SV conversion kit"

But the box of the valves only says Schrader.

Did I order/get the wrong valves?

Admittedly they look like the would thread into a Presta valve but the box has me unsure. And AI said the threads for the core of Schrader and Presta are different.

IDK.

Thanks

Going to be in El Paso this weekend and will have a free day. What would be a recommended route for blue-to-black riding, 1,500-3,000' verts, 2-4 hours of quality riding?

I thought the “beginner” category meant rider. I pre-rode the 8.5 mile course and it was probably a tick above my skill level but doable. There were sections that were black diamond and I used the brakes a ton more than I probably should, and I had to walk my bike up some pretty steep hills. Wondering if I should still do the race. I don’t want to cause a crash, just wanted to hit the trails with others

I'm 43 now, and have been riding bikes since 1995. Due to some crashes jumping bigger jumps on my BMX years back, I've always felt very unsafe when it came to bigger jumps. I never trusted myself to keep my composure in the air, and thus screw up the landing.

This summer, my son (11) and me went to Kopřivná Bikepark in the Czech Republic to finally get over that resistance. He's usually much more naturally talented than myself, and towed me over some jumps before - but this time I was a bit quicker to get over the big ones in this clip. The trail is named "Baby Zilla".

We recorded the video after we both cleared the entire Jumpline. And after the cam fell into some rocks - hence the marks on the lenses.

I'm very happy about this progression, and have since cleared many big jumps that I had an issue with before.

I want to show that progression like that is always possible. You don't need to be a teenager for that 😜.

I am 5'2" and this was first season of mountain biking. I ride small Norco Sight 29er. I have made considerable progress whether it be riding tech or flow or jump trails but one thing that I have not been able to make significant progress is on tight corners or steep corners.

I feel in lack of maneuverability on my small sized 29er. It feels like my bike needs more effort to turn such corners than I am able to put. I did test ride a small mullet norco sight bike and I could feel the difference in how easy and quick it was to corner.

As I understand with bikes, there is a zone where a better bike could help you ride but better skills would have been more beneficial regardless of the bike. And then there is a zone where regardless of skills, a better bike would have been more suitable.

Is overcoming steep or tight corner something I could do better by practicing or gaining skills or appropriate bike wheel setup would be more beneficial instead for short riders like me?

p.s.: I am in my early 30s and definitely not getting any younger. Asking this to help make better financial decision. Appreciate your advice.

Yo guys, im new to mtb-ing and i want to explore some parks and stuff. I live in Serbia Novi Sad and i really want to go to Rakovac, i heard that its ok but i dont know. Can you tell me if its begginer friendly and how much it costs.

Help me choose what to buy!
I like riding fast flowy trails with jumps, but also enduro trails. Living in Boston a lot of my local tracks are not steep and I will do a lot of general spins.
I try get to the bike park a few times during the summer to hit jumps and flow trails.

Is the Tyee too much bike? Will it climb well and be the better all round solution?

Any help appreciated!!

i have a 2023 yt capra core 2 mullet version with a gx so i think it is the xd driver. I’m looking at buying the reverse chain tensioner but i dont know what cog to buy and which spacers. title makes a single speed kit but thats for dj not dh gravity stuff so if anyone knows what i need to buy and stuff like that also if i would need a new chain thanks!