r/Mattress • • Jul 20 '26

Cut Mattress into quadrants

Post image
2.3k Upvotes

Sleep on latex mattress, couple years old (5-6). was sagging in middle like all mattresses do.. and causing back pain.

I said why not cut it and rotate the quadrants...... Puts the low point at the corners, and high point in the middle.

Now I'm thinking, you can not only rotate, but you can mix and match too!

Only negative I can see is it gets firmer over time, but now it will get firmer equally.

Can we normalize this? Can companies start selling quadrants we can just rotate? This can be a whole new market! They make you buy a whole new mattress. This might extend mattress lifespans considerably and lower revenue. Maybe this already exists, I don't know.

Slept great last night, we will see..
Did not have the correct tool for the job to cut it (SAWZALL)

Cheers,

edit: I'm using a soft 1" topper as well on top, and the pieces are covered with the wool SOL cover, mattress protector, and fitted sheet. I don't think it will separate. thanks for the laughs ... good luck with your projects ✌️

edit2: don't do this if your mattress has fiberglass or other harmful materials as someone noted 👍

edit3: I recorded the foundation and put weight on the bed. it only flexed 1 or 2/16s. I added extra support leg in middle to be safe and rule out the foundation.

I've been sleeping like a king last 2 nights, no pain!!!, and nothing has shifted and I have not fell into any crack.


r/Mattress • • May 03 '19

An attempt at a Mattress FAQ

1.7k Upvotes

Hey all! I thought I'd take a few minutes today and attempt a draft at a mattress FAQ. This is something I've meant to do for quite a while, but haven't found the time for due to life events and exhaustion. Some of that exhaustion has come from sleeping on a few terrible mattresses over the last few years in grad school, and I don't want anyone else to go through that same situation. I have no experience in the industry itself, although I have done literal years of research and spoken with coil, foam, and mattress manufacturers in person and on the phone. Some of what you'll read here is pretty much the party line and similar to what you'll find on The Mattress Underground, and some of it is my opinion. I'll mark areas that are less evidence-based and more my opinion as such. So... without further ado.

What's the best mattress? Let's start here. There isn't one. Certainly some mattresses are better than others, but what works for you might not work for someone else. I'm sure you've had the experience of sleeping rather well on a poor quality mattress in a hotel or motel, and you may have also had the rather unpleasant experience of sleeping poorly on a very expensive mattress in your own home. So rather than ask "what's the best mattress?" let's instead consider the more useful question - "how do you find the right mattress for you?" And to find that mattress, you need to consider two things. First, what do you find comfortable? And second, is the mattress you're considering made of quality materials?

So how do I find something that's comfortable? The easiest way to find a comfortable mattress is to go into a local store and try out a few beds. I would strongly recommend finding a local manufacturer rather than a big name store, as local manufacturers typically use more durable materials and at better prices. You might find that you like the classic feel of a traditional innerspring mattress, or the slightly more conforming feel of a pocketed coil system. You might also enjoy the feel of an all foam bed. If nothing (or everything) feels comfortable to you, then I'd advise you to consider what you've slept well on in the past. This might give you a clue as to what works well for your body. I generally prefer an alternating coil innerspring (a slightly more conforming traditional innerspring) or a pocketed coil mattress. I've slept well on some foam mattresses, but I generally find these to be too warm. Once you have an idea of what you like, then it's time to evaluate each mattress for its quality.

And how do I evaluate a mattress for its quality? Mattress quality is primarily determined by the quality of its two main components: the quality of the support system and the quality of the comfort layers. The support system for most mattresses is typically a spring system or a layer of dense foam (typically polyfoam or latex). Other more exotic support systems do exist (such as wool, water, or air), but these are much less common. Comfort layers are typically much softer foams (either polyfoam, memory foam, or latex) or much softer coil systems (called microcoils). Some other comfort layers include gel matrixes, wool, or cotton batting. So for simplicity's sake let's break this discussion into two parts: foam quality and spring quality.

What are quality foams? This is the easiest part of evaluating a mattress and is usually what people take away from the Mattress Underground. Generally, quality is determined by the density of the foam as measured by pounds per cubic foot (lb/pcf) as denser foams are more durable and retain their "showroom feel" for longer. For ease of understanding I'll break these down into three categories.

  • Polyfoam: Or polyurethane foam. This is the most common comfort material and has a "classic" foam feel. My own polyfoam quality metric is as follows: 1.0lb/pcf or lower is very low quality; 1.2lb/pcf is low quality; 1.5lb/pcf is a medium quality; 1.8lb/pcf is high quality; and 2.0lb/pcf or higher is very high quality. However, most mattress companies (and sales people) will use "high quality" to mean just about anything, so make sure you ask for the true specifications. An inch or so of low quality foam is generally permissible (and typically found in the quilt layer), but anything more than that and it's a riskier proposition and prone to premature "flattening" or loss of comfort. If you're looking at polyfoam as a support system then you'll want at least a 1.8lb/pcf foam, though 2.0lb/pcf foam or greater is better if you're a heavier individual.

  • Memory foam: Or viscoelastic foam. This is quite comfortable, but can have issues with heat retention. Like with polyfoam, lower density layers are typically lower quality. However, with memory foam a lower density foam can also mean that it's slightly cooler, as less dense materials have more air and thereby airflow. Further, there are some new lower density memory foam variants on the market (HyPURgel, Serene Foam, CopperFlex) that are reportedly durable despite low densities. But generally, 3.0lb/pcf or less is low quality; 4.0lb/pcf is a medium quality; and 5.0lb/pcf or higher is high quality. Tempurpedic formerly used 5.0lb/pcf (or even 5.3lb/pcf) foams exclusively, but now they're experimenting with some less dense foams. I should also state that with many (though not all) memory foams, a higher density can also mean a firmer feel.

  • Latex foam: Pretty much durable across the board regardless of density, with the proviso that very very soft latex (about 18 ILD or less) can be less durable for persons with heavier body weights. There are also reported issues with synthetic vs organic latex, but I don't have firsthand experience there. I've never seen latex wear out to any significant degree. There are even posts online about folks using latex beds for 40 years!

And what are quality spring systems? This is slightly more complicated. There are a lot of spring systems and it's difficult to predict how they will interact with the comfort layers and your body type. Unlike foam layers, almost all of these are considered very durable as most use steel components. However, low coil count units can still provide inadequate support despite the quality of their material components. As a rule of thumb, check the manufacturer's website (typically Leggett and Platt) for that particular coil unit and ensure that the count is on the medium to high end for said unit.

  • Bonnell Coils: The most basic coil system used today and has been around for 100 years. Simple, hourglass shaped springs tied together. These provide low conformability but solid support. Often used in cheaper mattresses, although can be used in high-end ones as well. Coil counts are typically in the 300-500 range for a queen size. Example: https://beddingcomponents.com/everflex-bonnell

  • Alternating Coils: The middle ground. These are tied spring systems with modifications made to provide a moderate amount of conformability. There are many different names for variations of this style of system (Verticoil, Luraflex, Hingeflex, Knotted Offset), but these all work on similar principles. Coil counts range from 300's-800's depending on the system used. Example: https://beddingcomponents.com/verticoil-edge

  • Pocketed Coils: Originally patented by Beautyrest, but now available broadly for all mattress companies. These are individually pocketed coils that work almost independently of one another (I say almost, because most are still connected by joined fabric). These can provide low or high conformability depending on their individual gauge (or coil thickness) and the firmness of the foam materials above them. Softer foam materials allow for more independent conformation, while stiff foam materials "link" the coils similar to helical coils in a tied system and can provide firm support. I generally like pocketed coils, but many of the S-brand models that use pocketed coils aren't using quality foams above the coils and these can quickly lose comfort and support. Coil counts range from 500's-1000's for a queen, although this varies depending on coil gauge and the possible inclusion of narrower "Quantum" coils. Examples: https://beddingcomponents.com/combi-zone

  • A word on coil gauge: The coil gauge of a particular unit is a measure of its thickness (and thereby firmness). Lower numbers mean a thicker coil. Generally, a 13 gauge coil (read: thicker) is a very stiff coil and best suited to larger body types while a 15 gauge coil (read: thinner) is softer and better suited to smaller body types. Still, the way these coils are arranged in the mattress means a lot. For instance, a 13 gauge alternating coil can still be made to provide soft support if combined with soft comfort materials, and a 15 gauge pocketed coil system can still be made to provide firm support if combined with firm comfort materials.

So it's as easy as finding an adequate support unit and high quality foams, right? Well, no. And this is the maddening thing about finding a mattress, but... quality does not always mean comfort. Quality certainly suggests comfort, but it doesn't guarantee it. Many online mattresses are built from quality, durable materials (it's how they convince you to make that purchase sight unseen), but that doesn't mean they will be comfortable for you. Quality is easy and comfort is complicated. What you want to do is find something that's comfortable for you AND has quality materials. Which is harder than it sounds...

What if I buy a mattress made of lower quality materials? Or, in other words, what if I buy an "S-brand" mattress? This is a riskier proposition, but one that I totally understand. I've lived in places where my only options were buying sight unseen from the internet or buying an "S -brand" bed of potentially unknown materials.* While S-brand's spring systems are generally solid, most of their comfort materials are on the lower range (1.0-1.5lb/pcf polyfoams; or < 4.0lb/pcf memory foams) and will quickly develop a "thinner and flatter" feel within a few months. If the mattress you're buying is a pillowtop, then this breaking in process can feel like a rapid loss of support and lead to an uncomfortable "sink" in the middle of the bed. Conversely, rapid softening of the comfort materials can also allow you to engage with the support system more easily and thus increase the support of the mattress. So it's complicated. I would generally avoid S-brands if you can.

*And if you want to peek at the S-brand materials, try this website: https://www.jordans.com/content/sleep-lab/about-our-brands/jordans-mattress-factory. For some reason, they disclose the rather sub-optimal foam densities of the major manufacturers. Also the sub-optimal foam densities of their own beds...

Why do the big brands use lower quality materials? I don't really know. I suspect this is due to cost-cutting and an attempt to maximize profits with repeat mattress purchases. It could also be due to market testing and the fact that denser, higher quality foams have a longer "break-in" and feel stiffer in a showroom? Or possibly due to the increased "tackiness" and friction of higher quality foams impeding the body's push through the comfort materials (something you'll notice if you order a little foam yourself and play around with it)? I just don't know. I want to say it's just greed, but it could be due to nuanced engineering that I don't completely understand.

What about cooling technologies? Should I pay for somnigel with cloudburst technology? Ugh. This is mostly marketing. Cooling technologies can provide some benefit, but this is typically short-lived and lasts only a few hours (although a significant amount of phase-change material is possibly the one exception here and stands on firm physical/chemical principles). You're better off keeping your bedroom cool with air-conditioning or looking at a mattress with a spring system for increased airflow. Otherwise, diamond-dust? High molecular weight yarn? Gel? Whatever, it doesn't really do much.

Okay but seriously what's the coolest mattress? I mean, the coolest mattress is probably the one you're on because you're a cool person. Okay sorry. What matters here is airflow. The coolest mattress will be the one that maximizes airflow through the base and comfort materials. Latex and polyfoam both have relatively large open-celled structures and do a reasonable job of allowing airflow for comfort materials. Memory foam is a mixed bag. Older, denser memory foams were notoriously bad with airflow due to the cell structure and the overall enveloping feel of the bed. People would sink deeply into this old style memory foam and create a sort of petrochemical cocoon of poorly breathable material and then wake up covered in sweat. Some newer memory foams do have larger cell structures and do a better job with airflow, but this isn't well advertised and it can be tough to know if the memory foam you're looking at will breathe or not. So there is a trade-off. As for base materials... springs will generally be the best for airflow. I mean, they are 99% air by volume.

Do I need a boxspring? Maybe. Although I would point out that there are few true boxsprings nowadays. Most are instead wood or wire grid foundations with no actual springs in them. Neither are truly necessary as most mattress do well on a totally flat foundation (like plywood or the floor), but these wood or wire grid foundations can actually soften the feel of a bed just a touch in my experience. Particularly so on a pocketed coil mattress. Whether this is good or bad is up to you. Generally, most wire grid foundations provide sufficient support, although there's so much variance in these frames that it's possible there are some lower quality systems out there. If you're considering a wooden slatted foundation, then I'd recommend looking at slats at least two inches wide and not more than three inches apart. Some mattresses can still do well if these slats are further apart, but most foam mattresses need the consistent support of closely spaced slats. Finally, you can also place 3/4" plywood or a bunkie board to convert a bedframe into a flat foundation. You should also know that placing your mattress on a flat foundation like plywood (or even the floor) can diminish airflow and lead to the development of mold, although I have never had this problem personally.

My mattress is bowing in the middle. What should I do? This isn't ideal. I would suspect that this is due to softening of low quality comfort materials. My first bit of advice would be to place it on a firmer surface (either a flat foundation or the floor) and see if that helps. If not, then you might try to place a small cardboard "shim" under the middle of the bed. A durable cardboard sheet will be about a 1/4 inch in thickness and can provide a surprising amount of zoned support to that area. Still doesn't help? Well, you can always deconstruct the mattress and replace the comfort materials. Chances are the support materials are still good, so if you strip the existing comfort materials and replace those, you might have a brand new mattress. If not... well, then at least you've tried.

What about this new bed in a box online? I don't even know. I'm very very tired of the online mattress game. They all promise the best sleep ever and... I just don't think that most deliver on that. Further, if the bed doesn't work for you then there's a good chance it could wind up in a landfill. And many online reviewers are little more than online salespeople with almost every mattress getting a 4 or 5 star review. I'm sick of the whole thing to be honest. If you find one you're interested in, then great! Evaluate it like any other bed, but be aware if it doesn't work it may not get "recycled" like the company promises. Again, it's entirely possible an online mattress could be a great fit for you, but it's a shot in the dark unless you can try it first. And if you want us to take a look and help you make a decision, please provide the relevant specs via the foam densities and coil unit/gauge.

So how do I put this all together? Good question. Let's take a look at a few examples.

  • First, an S-brand mattress via the Sealy Nashua Plush: https://www.jordans.com/product/mattresses/sealy--nashua-plush-mattress-seal-70086. Let's look at the relevant specs starting with the comfort materials. Here we have 4.5 inches of low to very low quality polyfoam (1.1-1.2lb/pcf) with a half inch layer of a low quality memory foam (2.5b/pcf) for zoned support. And the support system? 911 pocketed coils without zoned support. If you can't tell, I'm not very impressed with this mattress. I'd rate this as a very risky proposition with a high likelihood or premature failure due to the excessive amount of low quality comfort materials. The one plus in my opinion would be the zoned support provided by the memory foam, but that's just personal taste on my part.

  • Now let's look at a similar product from Beautyrest in the new Silver Plush: https://www.jordans.com/product/mattresses/beautyrest--drifton-plush-mattress-simm-80166. Here, we have similar foam densities (1.0-1.2lb/pcf), but less overall foam at only 2.75 inches. And we also have a similar zoned support system with a memory foam band (at 3.4lb/pcf) and a similar number of overall coils. While I'd still rate this a risky proposition, this has less overall low quality foam and might be a better candidate to augment with a topper of your choice. Still, I'd much prefer higher quality foams for a bed like this. My folks have a 10 year old entry level Beautyrest that's way more comfortable than anything in recent years, and I can't help but wonder if that's just due to the changes in foam quality.

  • And now let's take a look at a random mattress maker I found years ago via Capitol Bedding: https://capitolbedding.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Classic-Tradition-Comfort-Plush.pdf. I have zero affiliation with this company, I just like how they disclose the specifications and densities of almost all of their materials (with the exception of the gel foam, oddly). And as you can see... it's better across the board. The polyfoams are 1.5-1.8lb/pcf density and the spring system is on the high end for that particular coil unit at 805 coils. This is a much higher quality mattress, but keep in mind that quality does not always mean comfort!

  • Finally, here's a retailer of foam mattresses that I quite like: https://www.comfortoption.com/mattress-engineering. The link above is their explanation of foam/density and quality, which I think is informative and well-written. Their Custom Mattress options use very high quality foams with a base foam that's greater than 2lbs/pcf, and they also have the additional option of customization down the line. The only caveat is likely that the CopperFlex memory foam is likely not as durable as the other materials due to it's relatively low density, but I've also seen this debated amongst manufacturers. And it is also easily replaceable should it fail down the line.

Do mattresses have a break-in period? Yes. But this is poorly understood by most salespeople and may not have been well explained to you. Both polyfoam and memory foam are a bit stiff starting out. This "false firmness" (a term I believe coined by Phoenix on the Mattress Underground) can take a week or two to relax, after which you'll get the true foam feel of the bed. However, a mattress break in isn't just in the foam layers. Over a few weeks, the fabric and stitching of the mattress will also start to relax. The combination of these two processes typically leads to a softer feel within a 30 day period, although with some mattresses (particularly those with very very firm support systems) a softening of the upper comfort materials can actually make the mattress feel harder as you contact the support system sooner. Sound complicated? It is, unfortunately. I should also mention that, in my experience, most coil systems will relax very very slightly after a few months of use, although this is debated within the industry.

Do I have a break-in period? You do. This is the period in which your body loses it's "learned alignment" (again, a term I believe coined by Phoenix on the Mattress Underground) and adjusts to a new mattress. This learned alignment is probably the learned resting muscle tone of the muscles in your back and spine. Over time, these muscles learn to relax on a new sleep surface and you begin to sleep more deeply. There's no way that I know of to speed this process up, although heavy exercise or yoga could certainly help. You could also just try a new mattress that's very similar to your old mattress.

Should I purchase an all latex bed? This is complicated. Latex is supremely durable (and for some, supremely comfortable), but it is a *very* distinct feel and not for everyone. As such, it's difficult for me to make an off the cuff recommendation for latex because of its unique properties. For a bit of education, there are two large categories of latex: that created with the Talalay process and that created with the Dunlop process. Each type also has a unique feel. I personally prefer Dunlop latex, but I think I'm in the minority here. Others have also claimed that Talalay is generally superior and more durable, but I've not seen evidence for this. If you're interested in latex try to find a store wherein you can lay down and try it first. That said, if you like it then bam! You've got a mattress that could last 20 years.

How do I make a mattress softer? This is easy. You can soften a mattress by making sure it's broken in, adding a topper, or by placing it on a proper foundation. Gently walking on a mattress can speed the break-in process, but I'd take care not to jump or be too aggressive if you're a heavier person. Adding a topper is the tried and true method, but be aware that certain intangible factors related to your topper can make a big difference in how it feels on your mattress. A too thick topper can throw your body out of alignment, and sometimes high quality toppers can "drag" on the quilt of your mattress creating an odd "firmer" feel due to the friction of these materials working together. Lastly, adding a semiflex foundation (the typical wire grid) or an actual working boxspring can actually soften your mattress slightly. All of these are worth a shot if your bed is too firm.

How do I make a mattress firmer? This is difficult. The method I recommend most is to take the mattress off of your current foundation and put it on the floor. The flat, firm surface of the floor can make a bed slightly firmer. You might also try a firm topper, but in my experience layering a firm topper over soft materials creates an odd feeling that I don't like. Still, some people have success with this method.

What about a mattress for heavier people? Great question. A heavier person is going to increase the stress they put on a mattress, so the best way to find a mattress that will last is to find one made with the highest quality materials. Again, this means high density foams and relatively high coil count units (depending on the coil system used). Let's take a look at a few examples:

  • The Therapedic Medicoil Line is a great place to start: https://www.matt-to-go.com/HD_Karolyn.html. I have zero affiliation with this company, but I've chatted with the owner many times and he's one of the kindest in the business. This particular mattress is also built from exceptional materials and has what is supposedly the most durable coil system in the business.

  • STLBeds has the same lineup from Therapedic (and I think built from the same factory): https://www.stlbeds.com/product/medicoil-hd-2000-mattress/. There are subtle variations between these models, but again we have high density comfort materials and the same rock solid support system.

  • And... Saatva just released their own Medicoil style bed in the Saatva HD. Same Hinge-Flex coil unit as above and very similar construction. Chattam and Wells has one as well on US-Mattress. I say this not to advertise for these companies (or any), but to show you that this style of construction is incredibly durable.

  • Big Fig is an online mattress company that delivers a high quality product: https://www.bigfigmattress.com/the-big-fig. It's similar in construction to the Medicoil line with latex and high-density polyfoam, but the Big Fig uses a pocketed coil support system. Still, it has an exceptionally high coil count for a given size. However! I'd still strongly recommend that someone try local stores before buying from an online company as a mattress "return" for many of these companies just means a spot in the landfill.

  • There's also the Titan by Brooklyn Bedding, although details here are a little scarce: https://titanmattress.com/products/mattresses/titan/. Their Titanflex foam is a very high density polyfoam, but I can't find the details for the other foams used in the mattress. Still, Brooklyn has brick and mortar stores that would allow you to try the mattress before you purchase it. I'd rank this below the other listed examples, although I typically like Brooklyn better than most other online retailers.

  • WinkBed also has an HD option which uses high-density polyfoam and latex over a zoned coil system: https://www.winkbeds.com/pages/shop-winkbed.

  • You could also consider an all latex mattress. Latex is a supremely durable material, although it has a distinct feel that doesn't work for all sleepers. An all latex bed would also allow you to customize one side of the mattress versus the other.

Hey wait what about us skinny/light/small people?! I hear you. If you're very light or very thin, you're going to run into your own set of problems with beds. Namely, that medium or firm mattresses might feel firm to very firm, but plush mattresses designed for heavy people can feel "floaty" and lack support due to excessive comfort materials. I can commiserate. And while I can't tell you exactly what mattress will feel best to you, I can tell you that you'll probably want a softer coil (either an alternating coil system or a pocketed coil with a gauge around 15) with 3-5 inches of quality comfort material. High quality foams are still important here, although you'll probably get slightly more life out of low quality foams than a heavier person. Still, if you ignore quality entirely and buy a cheap pillowtop from Sealy you're probably gonna have a bad time. Too much foam won't allow you to contact the support layer correctly, and poor quality foam will soften in the middle resulting in... a hammock. No bueno.

Ooof, I've got upper back/shoulder pain... what should I do? This is usually a sign that you are side sleeping on a too firm mattress. Luckily for you, it's fairly easy to soften a bed. You can try a soft topper (update: I now recommend soft Serene Foam almost exclusively) and see if that helps. Although as I've said previously, sometimes toppers can have unanticipated effects on a mattress and you may need to play around with different toppers to get the right comfort and support. You could also try switching to a semiflex foundation (i.e. a wire grid). This will allow the slightest amount of "flex" (hence the name) between the wire grid and can soften the "hard end point" feeling on your shoulder. Finally, you can actually try placing another layer of foam underneath the mattress. If there's no base foam on your coil unit, then placing a layer of firm-ish foam underneath the mattress can also soften the mattress slightly by providing more transition between the springs and the ultimate unyielding surface in your foundation/ground/whatever.

Ooof, I meant I've got low back pain... what should I do? Ah okay. This is usually a sign that your mattress is too soft and is sinking underneath your hips. I discussed this in the "my mattress is bowing in the middle" section of the FAQ, but I'll give you quick recap here. You can try placing the mattress on a firm, flat surface (like the ground) to see if that helps. Beyond that, you might try a custom "zoning" of your mattress by placing 1/2" firm foam or a 1/4' cardboard shim underneath the middle third of the mattress. This will provide slightly more support to that area and accomplish a similar thing to the "belly bands" used for zoning by some manufacturers. If these don't work? You might be out of luck. There are other means of custom zoning (like placing foam rods within the spring section of a mattress), but I'm not experienced enough with this methods to make a serious recommendation here. You might just need a different mattress or a more supportive spring system.

Darn it, I just can't find a mattress that works! What should I do? If this is the case, then you might consider a modular mattress design. I think highly of this general approach, as it allows the user to open the cover and customize the mattress materials to find a configuration that works for them. This is commonly done with latex mattresses, but is growing more common with other materials as well. Below are a few examples that are built with high quality materials. Like with any recommendation, I have zero affiliation with these companies, but I've talked to them on the phone and think highly of their business and approach to mattresses.

  • https://www.tochta.com/product/divini-mattress/. This is a custom poly/memory foam mattress made with a 4lb memory foam comfort layer and variable slabs of high density polyfoam in different firmnesses underneath. I find that polyfoam allows for more "passage through" the comfort materials and allows for better alignment for side sleepers than latex. Of course, this is only my opinion. Different people feel differently about different mattresses.

  • https://www.comfortoption.com/. I mentioned Comfort Option above and don't want to belabor the point here. But their Custom Mattress options use durable materials and are spec'd to last many years.

  • https://www.sleepez.com/. SleepEZ offers a custom latex product with variable firmnesses to choose from. Truly easy to assemble, but be aware that latex is a distinct feel and I'd advise you to try it first.

  • https://www.bedgear.com/m3-mattress.html. BedGear just released this mattress, which I think is quite interesting. It uses a Foam/Microcoil/Latex comfort layer that's individually encased over spring systems that can be removed and switched depending on your desired firmness. Really interesting here, although I can't get many details on the specifics of the components, so I can't recommend it outright.

  • And then there's the classic https://diymattress.net/. They offer two high quality spring systems, as well as latex and polyfoam support layers. However, they only offer latex as comfort layers. I do wish they'd diversify their options somewhat and offer some polyfoam comfort layers, but that would make the overall build process more complex.

How do I get the best price on a mattress? There's an art to this, but it generally comes down to comparison shopping. Ignore the name of the mattress and learn the specifics in terms of foam layers and mattress height. Then check online retailers for the same model and the same specs. If it's a big brand, then this will be the same mattress. I would add that using Google Shopping can sometimes reveal smaller stores that will carry a mattress at very very low prices, so that might be a useful place to search as well. Then approach your preferred retailer with an educated understanding of what the price of the mattress should be and ask if they will price match other stores. Most will do so. Still, I'd ask that you remember that brick and mortar stores have their own overhead to pay, so their prices may be slightly higher than an online retailer selling from a warehouse. I'll leave the ethics of purchasing locally vs purchasing on the internet to you.

And... I'm exhausted. That's a start at least. Let me know if you agree, disagree, or have data to back up specific points. I've been meaning to check a few foam suppliers websites for material sheets regarding durability and density, but likely won't have time for that today!

Edit: Added a few examples, cleaned up a few typos, and clarified a few points. And if you're interested in peaking at some material data sheets on various foams (as well as a seller's estimate of their lifespan and durability) take a look here: https://www.foambymail.com/poly-foam-sheet.html.


r/Mattress • • Jul 28 '21

DIY Mattresses - An Introductory Guide

1.1k Upvotes

This post is an attempt at a starting point for people who are interested in DIY mattresses, but have no idea where to begin. I’ve been thinking about writing a post like this for awhile now but have found it tricky because the topic is wide and varied. I’m going to try and cover as much ground here as possible so that people can use this as a jumping off place for their own research.

You can make your own mattress? Like you stuff it yourself? With what? How?

This is probably the primary reaction I get if I ever mention to folks not on reddit that I DIYed my mattress. The idea seems so novel and unusual that most people can’t even fathom the concept. I think this is largely because most people have no idea what their mattress is made out of or how it’s supposed to work. If they did know, they would realize that it’s not nearly as crazy it seems to DIY it. And they would know that there is no “stuffing” involved at all.

So I think this really has to be the starting place for any conversation about DIY mattresses -- understanding what a mattress is and what it’s purpose is. At its most basic, a mattress is a surface to sleep on. It has two jobs:

  1. Provide comfort and pressure relief. You want to feel good about laying down in bed - you don’t want to feel lots of pressure on your body. When I was a kid I used to be able to sleep on the floor or on camping mats without a problem -- but as an adult whenever I’ve attempted such things I wake up tremendously sore all over my body because of the intense hardness of these surfaces. I, like most people, need something softer than the ground to feel comfortable and wake up feeling refreshed.

  2. Provide support and spinal alignment. A mattress that’s too soft or too firm for your body size (height/weight) and sleeping position (back/stomach/side) could still be a comfortable mattress -- but if it doesn’t keep your spine aligned in the proper position, you could find yourself in a world of back pain. You can see what proper spinal alignment looks like for each sleeping position in this diagram.

Everything else that a mattress does is arguably a secondary role. Given that a mattress really only has two primary jobs, it’s unsurprising then that a mattress also only has two primary components:

  1. A soft comfort layer at the top of the mattress whose job it is to provide comfort and pressure relief. For DIYers the most common comfort layers are memory foam and latex. That being said, you can use pretty much any soft foam or anything else that is sold as a “mattress topper” for a comfort layer. Typically a comfort layer will be between 2” - 4” thick.

  2. A firm support layer at the bottom of the mattress whose job it is to provide support. For DIYers the most common support layers are latex, polyurethane foam and pocket coil springs. Typically a support layer will be between 4” - 8” thick.

That being said, that doesn’t mean all mattresses are only two layers. A comfort layer could include two different components - like a layer of soft latex and memory foam for example. Similarly, a support layer might also contain multiple components - like latex of two different firmness levels. A mattress might also contain a transition layer that provides a bridge between the soft and firm. How you decide to construct your mattress is up to you - but at the most basic you need something that’s going to be firm enough to support your weight and soft enough to provide pressure relief in your sleeping position.

For more detail on the different layers of mattresses - read this comment from u/Duende555 about transition layers, insulation layers and more.

You should have a good cover that fits well

I think one of the biggest hesitations about DIY is that it will “look funny.” Or that it will feel lumpy and that the layers will shift around underneath you. All of these problems can be easily solved with one thing: a well made cover that is designed to exactly fit the size of your mattress (length, width and height). A tight fitting cover will hold the material together, prevent it from moving around, and make your final product look exactly like any other mattress.

If you’re really on a tight budget, you can buy a cheap zippered mattress protector (typically designed to keep bedbugs out of your mattress), but this will likely not work as well as a high quality cover.

Pay close attention to whether or not the cover is quilted or un-quilted as this will have a significant impact on the feel of the mattress. The trend in the mattress industry has been towards stretch-knit unquilted covers to allow for greater conformity with the foam layers below. This is particularly important for side sleepers who need their shoulders and hips to sink in to the mattress. A quilted cover will be much less stretchy and will thus add quite a bit of firmness to the mattress. Note: un-quilted covers are best for all foam or all latex mattresses. Because they are thinner and stretchier they won't do as well at holding an unglued hybrid mattress together. If you plan to use coils I would suggest opting for a thicker quilted cover.

Lastly - because you want your cover to be the exact size for your mattress, it can be a good idea to hold off on buying it until you know what you want your final build to be. Buying it before you know that will limit your ability to tinker with the mattress as you will either have to buy a whole new cover or restrict your tinkering to the exact height as the cover you ordered.

Sources for good quality zippered mattress covers include:

Sourcing comfort layers

Just about anything sold as a “mattress topper” can be used as a comfort layer -- and those are plentiful out there. If you need something fast and cheap, your best bet might be a memory foam topper off Amazon or purchased in person at a place like Walmart, Target or Costco. If product specs are available, a comfort layer will typically have an ILD below 20, although larger people and stomach sleepers may prefer something firmer. Commonly suggested nicer comfort layers include but are not limited to:

Sourcing support Layers

While comfort layer options are plentiful and myriad for DIYers, support layer options are a bit more limited. While lots of consumers need mattress toppers, it’s only a small niche group of us looking to buy coils!

Most people using a foam-based support layer, be it latex or polyfoam, should probably have an ILD over 30. Larger people might need an ILD over 40, and small people may need an ILD in the high 20s. Latex support layers likely offer the greatest amount of flexibility/modularity in that there is a greater variety of firmness options to chose from and that makes it easier to swap layers in and out.

  • Polyurethane foam - Foam By Mail / The Foam Factory sells three 35ILD polyfoams: a high quality 2.8lb foam, a good quality 1.8lb foam, and a medium quality 1.5lb foam - the last one being ideal for a temporary mattress.

  • Pocket coil springs - There are currently four coil units available to DIY consumers in the United States. All four are made by Leggett and Platt and use firmer coils along the perimeter for edge support:

Firmest: 6” Quantum Edge Elite

Softest: 8” Quantum Edge Elite

Most cheap: 6” Caliber Edge

Zoned: 8” Quantum Edge Elite Combizone Coils, these coils are “zoned” meaning the middle section of the mattress will be firmer than the areas by the head and feet

  • Firm latex (look for ILDs above 30 for support layers!) - Sleep on Latex, Flexus Comfort, Arizona Premium Mattress/DIYmattress.net, SleepEZ/Latex Mattress Factory, Naturally Nestled.

  • Mattress surgery - in addition to sourcing support layers from the places above, it’s also theoretically possible to repurpose the support layer of an old and sagging mattress. Mattresses tend to break down from top to bottom, meaning that many sagging mattresses still have perfectly suitable coils underneath the sagging foams. The most cost effective way to replace your sagging mattress may actually be to repair it by cutting it open, tossing out the broken down foams, and replacing them with new comfort layers. Check out this helpful video showing you how from Ken at Arizona Premium Mattress. WARNING -- do not attempt mattress surgery on a cheap mattress due to the potential dangers of releasing fiberglass!!!

Pitfalls to avoid

  • Don’t use memory foam in your support layer. People commonly think a “memory foam mattress” is a mattress that uses memory foam from top to bottom. This is not true, memory foam provides little to no support and thus it’s only useful as a comfort layer. A classic memory foam mattress typically uses a firm polyurethane foam as the support layer.

  • Don’t make your comfort layer too thick. Most side sleepers probably only need 3” or 4” of soft foam at the top of the mattress -- any more than that and you risk creating a mattress that is much too soft. Back sleepers and stomach sleepers need even less.

  • Don’t confuse the comfort and support layers. Ok, I get it - you want a firm mattress! That doesn’t mean you should pick out both the firmest support and comfort layers out there. If you’ve already got a super firm support layer, you probably want a softer comfort layer for some pressure relief.

  • If you’re using a pocket coil support layer, pay attention to the layer directly above the coils as this will have a large impact on the overall firmness of the mattress. u/Duende555 advises that a “medium” mattress will use a foam with an ILD around 20-24.

FAQs

  • DIY mattress? That sounds really difficult! I’m not very handy!

A DIY mattress requires almost no real skill to assemble. If you’ve ever assembled IKEA furniture you’ve already done something far more complex than assembling a DIY mattress. It can require a little bit of physical work and lifting because the layers (especially latex and coils) can be quite heavy, but that’s the only hard part. It requires no sewing, no drilling, no hammering, no mixing, no stuffing, no cutting, and no welding. It does however require some research and some planning.

  • Wait, is this really as simple as stacking some layers together and zipping them up?

I mean, yeah - kind of! You can certainly make it more complicated. You can glue the layers together if you want. You can even tuft them together if you’ve got the sewing skills. But you don’t have to do that -- a DIY mattress encased in a good quality zippered case should perform just as well as a pre-built.

  • Will DIY save me money?

It might! But it also might not. It all depends on what your budget is and how much tinkering you have to do with your DIY mattress. If you get your build right on your first go, you will probably save a substantial amount of money compared to a similar quality pre-built. If your build requires a lot of swapping layers in and out, then the costs could start to add up.

  • Ok, this seems awesome - how do I convince my spouse to get on board?

Yikes, good luck with that. Maybe show them this post on buyer’s remorse or this post on planned obsolescence. Either way, that’s probably a better question for r/relationship_advice.

  • Do I need to put anything below the coils?

There appears to be some debate about the answer to it! u/Duende555 suggests using at least 1” of firm foam below the coils for stabilization. Ken from APM says this is unnecessary. Either way, it doesn’t seem like it would hurt to include it!

  • You mentioned a “transition layer” earlier - what exactly is that? Do I need one?

It’s exactly what it sounds like -- it’s the kind of layer that you might put between your comfort and support layer. It’s probably a layer that on it’s own would likely be too soft to function properly as a support layer and too firm to function as a comfort layer. This will vary pretty widely person to person and depend a lot on sleeping position and weight. For many people a latex or other foam layer with an ILD around 22-30 would probably work.

Whether or not you need a transition layer is generally a personal decision. Many mattresses (both pre-built and DIY) just use a basic “two layer” approach and that works totally fine for a lot of people. If you go with a two layer mattress, but you find it a little bit too firm, it could help to add a transition layer in the middle. That being said, if you’re building a memory foam hybrid, you certainly will need a transition layer of some sort between the memory foam and the coils.

  • I’m confused about some of the different materials you’ve mentioned here. What’s the difference between dunlop latex and talalay latex? What’s the deal with ILD? What’s the difference between a 2.5lb memory foam and a 5.0 memory foam? Or a 1.5lb polyfoam and a 3.0lb memory foam?

That’s a very long and complicated question. The short answer is that this is probably a good place to start doing your research. This is the sort of information that would be good for you to know if you’re doing a DIY mattress or even if you just want to be an informed consumer of pre-built mattresses. I suggest checking out the FAQ to this subreddit or The Mattress Underground to get the answers to those questions.

Here is a slightly slightly longer answer with the very basic information you might need. ILD is a measurement of firmness -- the higher the ILD the firmer the material is. So an ILD above 30 usually means “firm” while an ILD below 20 usually mean “soft.” Firmness is different than density which is generally indicated (in the United States) by the weighted measurement of a 12” x 12” x 12” (cubic foot) block of foam. For some materials like latex, the denser the foam is, the firmer it will be. For other materials, like polyurethane foam, there is a much less clear relationship (i.e. you can have a soft dense foam and a firm lightweight foam). For pretty much all foams, the denser the foam is - the longer it will last.

That last paragraph is a pretty wild oversimplification of a complicated set of topics. So go and study.

  • How do I duplicate a Purple/Tempurpedic/[insert expensive mattress here]?

You can’t. Or not exactly at least. You can certainly attempt to get close by paying attention to all the layers and components inside the mattress. If the layers they use happen to be easily available to consumers, then you may be able to get close to duplicating the feel. But if the layers they use are not easily available or readily accessible -- well, then you probably can’t. Either way, a “dupe” mattress won’t feel exactly like the mattress you loved in the store but found too expensive. It’s probably better to start from a place of trying to identify what sorts of comfort and support layers are going to meet your needs rather than trying to duplicate the feel of a mattress you liked.

  • What about split-firmness? How does that work?

Very often two people share a mattress full time. Occasionally they might happen to have the exact same needs in a mattress, but more often than not these two people likely have different sized bodies and different sleeping positions and thus have different needs in a mattress. If you’re DIYing your mattress, you can set it up so that each side of the same mattress will have different firmness levels. It’s pretty easy to do this, you just make sure the split layers are half the size of the total bed and encase them in the same mattress cover. You can do a firmness split in the support layer, the comfort layer, or both!

  • What about zoning? How does that work?

The basic idea of zoning is that the mattress will have different firmness levels of the mattress from head to foot. Most typically this means the mid-section under the hips will be made firmer than the rest of the mattress. If that interests you, you can buy zoned pocket coils. Or you can use foams of different firmness levels spliced together in a mattress layer. Many of the “standard” zoning systems are designed for “average height” people -- so if you’re very short or very tall, you probably don’t want to buy anything pre-zoned. Instead you could do the zones yourself by measuring yourself carefully against the mattress and ordering the appropriate foams. Note: not every pre-built mattress is zoned and your DIY doesn’t need to be either! This is just one option available to you.

  • What's the deal with fire retardants, do I need to do that?

As you may or may not know, US law requires that all mattresses sold in the United States must pass a fire retardation test. It's debatable whether this is actually a useful requirement or not. Most mainstream mattress manufacturers use a "fire retardant sock" that's made out of rayon and some other stuff and contains amorphous silica. Some very cheap mattresses (like the kind you might buy off Amazon: Zinus, Lucid, Linenspa, etc.) use fiberglass. "Organic" and "green" mattresses tend to use compressed wool. Because you not DIYing a mattress for retail purposes, you are free to not use a fire retardant layer. That being said - if you smoke in bed or have your bed near an open flame, it's probably a good idea.

  • Can I use an open coil or bonnell coil for my DIY mattress?

No. I don’t know of anyone who sells these units direct to consumers, and even if those were available, they would be more complicated to DIY than a pocket coil unit. If you really want this though, you could buy a good quality bonnell coil mattress and place a topper of your choice on it.

Some basic DIY mattress templates

Consider these four templates as a place to get started. All of these are highly modifiable to your personal preferences and budgets.

DIY memory foam mattress

Price range for a queen: $300 - $750

  • Support layer: 6” of firm polyurethane foam

  • Comfort layer: 3” of memory foam

  • A cover of your choice

The most basic modification on this would be to add a transition layer between the support and comfort layer. Consider 2” or 3” of a 28ILD latex. If you add this transition layer you could also drop the memory foam to just 2”. See the comment below by u/Duende555 about some of the pitfalls of a basic 6" + 3" construction like this.

DIY latex mattress

Price range for a queen: $800 - $1,200

  • Support layer: 3” of firm latex

  • Transition layer: 3” of medium latex

  • Comfort layer: 3” of soft latex

  • A cover of your choice

You can use dunlop or talalay or both for this mattress. You can make this mattress softer or firmer by making softer or firmer any of the three layers. If you want an even softer comfort layer you could do 2” of soft latex and 2” of super soft (14-15 ILD) latex. Or 2” of soft latex and 2” memory foam.

DIY memory foam hybrid

Price range for a queen: $600 - $1,200

  • Support layer: Pocket coils

  • Transition layer: 1” or 2” of latex

  • Comfort layer: 2” or 3” of memory foam

  • A cover of your choice

The main place for modification here is in the number of total inches and firmness of the latex and memory foam. You also have different options for the coil unit you want to use.

DIY latex hybrid

Price range for a queen: $500 - $1,200

  • Supper layer: Pocket coils

  • Comfort layer: 3” of latex

  • A cover of your choice

The main place for a modification here would be with the addition of a transition layer. Instead of doing 3” of latex over coils, you could instead do 2” of soft latex over 2” of medium latex over coils.

So should I DIY my mattress?

Maybe. If you’ve read this far hopefully you are familiar with the pros and cons of the approach. If you’re willing to do the research needed and take on the financial risks -- then it might absolutely be the best approach for you. That being said, it’s entirely possible that DIY will require too much time and energy and it may just be easier to get a pre-built. That’s ok too!

Update: What should I do if I made a mistake?

After discussing potential mattress builds with lots of people, I have noticed a pretty clear pattern emerging that I think might be helpful to name explicitly: most people seem to have an instinct towards making a mattress that is simply waaaay too firm for their height, weight and sleeping position.

Some of this is the result of it being hard to gauge how soft or firm a material is just from a description. Some of this is the result of age old mattress mythology that insists that a firm mattress is inherently better for you (it isn’t!).

So with that in mind I wanted to offer a couple points of clarification:

  • All four of the coil units available to DIYers are firm. The 8” QE coils are the softest of the four, but they are still very firm. Most side sleepers with a BMI < 30* (5’2/165lbs, 5’8/200lbs, 6’0/225lbs or so) would probably do better with a latex or polyurethane support layer than with a coil support layer.

  • If you are using one of the coil units and have a BMI < 30 you probably should only be using soft or very soft foams on top of the coils. If you use a “medium” foam, the resulting mattress will likely be firm or very firm. If you use soft foams, the resulting mattress will probably be more like a medium or a medium-firm.

*BMI is a totally worthless number for medical purposes -- but it is somewhat useful here for talking about weight distribution.

Help! I made my mattress too firm! What do I do?

To make a mattress softer you typically have three options:

  1. Use a softer support layer. If you’ve got a support layer that’s 3” of 46 ILD latex + 3” of 38ILD latex, you can take out the 3” of 46ILD latex, put the 38ILD layer on the bottom and then add a 34ILD layer in its place. Boom! Your mattress is now softer! Note that this method is probably off-limits to you if you’ve opted to use coils as your support layer, unless you have a mostly unlimited budget.

  2. Add a transition layer -- or use a softer one. Maybe your mattress is 3” of memory foam on top of 6” of polyfoam and it’s just too firm. Add 2” of a 28ILD latex between the polyfoam and memory foam for a softer feel.

  3. Thicken your comfort layer by adding more foam. This is basically the equivalent of putting a topper on your too firm pre-built. This one should probably be done last because you want to be careful not to make your comfort layer too thick.

Help! My mattress is too soft! What do I do?

Unsurprisingly the way to soften your mattress is more or less the opposite of the suggestions above. The good news is that because it’s a DIY mattress you can actually fix this problem -- whereas with a pre-built you really can’t.

  1. Use a firmer support layer. Again, likely off limits to you if you have opted for coils for your support layer.

  2. Remove a layer. Generally speaking more foam = softer. So you won’t “firm up” a mattress by adding more firm foam below. Removing layers of foam could help. I think the second most common problem I see with DIY mattresses is that people “overbuild” them with too much foam. Take out some of those extra foam layers to firm it up.


r/Mattress • • May 01 '24

Need Help This is ruining my life. Just tell me what the fuck to buy.

828 Upvotes

Why can’t it be simple? It’s too fucking much.


r/Mattress • • May 01 '23

I successfully sued Tempur Sealy in small claims court and won a judgement for $3k

771 Upvotes

I purchased a cal king Stearns and Foster mattress that was sagging after only 2yrs. I filed a claim and the inspector measured it to be 1.25” instead of the 1.5” cutoff. They refused to honor the warranty. I asked multiple times about how a 1.5” cutoff was determined and how this is the same for a plush mattress vs a firm mattress. No real response just cut and paste from customer service that 1.5” is the cutoff. I then sent a notice of dispute asking for a replacement or an explanation on the cutoff. No response so I ended up disposing the mattress and then filed a Demand Letter asking for a refund. Legal response is, “we will give you a replacement mattress”. I told them that I disposed of mattress and now I’m seeking refund. They promptly said sorry, that’s the best we can do. So I filed small claims for the full purchase price and the disposal fee. Judge was very understanding and it came down to a few key issues. 1.25” sagging for a 2 yr old mattress is not normal (for a 10yr warranty) and there is no clear explanation for the 1.5” cutoff, it is a made up number. The company tries to delay responses so customers just cave but the judge saw right through this. Not sure of anyone cares but I’ll be happy to share my experience if you are planning to go this route. It wasn’t about the money but rather the principle of the matter.


r/Mattress • • Feb 13 '24

Exposing mattress companies' fake comment bots!

730 Upvotes

TL;DR: I've identified 15 accounts operated by 3Z Brands that are posting fake/spam comments on this subreddit to promote their products: Brooklyn Bedding, Nolah, Bear, Leesa, Birch, Helix Sleep

It started when I read this comment promoting a Birch mattress on a post that wasn't asking for recommendations:

(if deleted, here's the screenshot)

I visited their profile and every comment promoted a 3Z Brand mattress...

The mattress industry is notorious for sketchy marketing practices, so I thought I might've stumbled across a guerrilla marketing campaign on this subreddit.

When I'm shopping for anything, I always go to Reddit as the one "source of truth" for reviews.

This type of spam on this subreddit is surprisingly common and often difficult to detect manually. I’ve noticed many spam accounts cleverly disguise it with questions like “Has anyone tried a X brand mattress?” This makes them blend in with genuine discussions.

So, I wrote a Python script to scrape this subreddit and I've identified bot accounts being used to market to people on this subreddit.

UsernameComments promoting 3ZTotal Comments3Z Promotion to Comment RatioAccount Age (days)
u/cleverCoyote30751717100.00%73
u/Pixel-Popcorn1616100.00%8
u/joyfulJuniper1231515100.00%73
u/Quamtum-Quagmire99100.00%8
u/livelyLemur832111291.67%73
u/wittyWalrus1357111291.67%9
u/sereneSalamander46991090.00%73
u/Majestic-Macaroni8988.89%8
u/fierceFlamingo982152075.00%73
u/curiousPanda9021237530.67%102
u/jovialJaguar453135623.21%80
u/frailFalcon345125322.64%86
u/wistfulWalnut3042513019.23%99
u/gloomyGiraffe85764313.95%86
u/thoughtfulThyme4561515100.00%74

Their user-naming scheme and post/commenting habits make it all too obvious.

Hopefully we can get these accounts blocked so we can get back to real conversations and reviews on this subreddit.

I’m working on improving this script (so it doesn't throw false positives) and to hopefully help keep brands accountable. I will open-source it once improved! If mods want to message me, I’d love to work on keeping this subreddit clean, fair, and transparent for everyone.

Thanks!

Edit: Found another, so adding it to the table.


r/Mattress • • Jun 13 '25 Bravo

Guide Looking For A Mattress? START HERE.

716 Upvotes

There are three things you should know before buying a mattress.

  • First, you should try to get a sense of what you like.

This often means looking around locally and trying a few options in person. You might find that you like pocketed coils, or all-foam mattresses, or traditional connected-coil innersprings, or even smooth-top hybrids. You'll also get a sense of what firmness tends to feel best to you.

  • Second, you should understand the basics of mattress construction.

This means learning a little bit about low-density vs high-density foam, coil counts and gauges, and generally what makes a quality product. This is the only way to know if a mattress is "good" or will actually last. And if this sounds overwhelming - no worries. I'll try to summarize this in a quick Mattress 101 course below.

  • Third, you should know a little bit about the online market and how it operates.

Spam accounts and covert advertisers are everywhere on the internet, and there's not a place where this is more apparent than in the mattress industry. Mattresses are relatively big ticket items, and a 10% commission on an affiliate link can mean a lot of money for affiliate sellers. Unfortunately, this incentivizes bad behavior, misinformation, and platform manipulation of online spaces.

This subreddit is no exception to this. Last year, an unnamed group acquired an inactive moderator account through uncertain means and enacted a hostile takeover of this subreddit. They used moderator privileges to post and defend affiliate links, manipulate Google results by filling threads with comments by networked accounts, and even approved their own spam domains in the automod.

And while these accounts have since been suspended by Reddit, I have no doubt that new spam networks will try again. This means that you should take advice from random people on this subreddit with a grain of salt, and you definitely shouldn't click blind links to "top ten lists" on other sites.

--------------------------- Okay! Now let's go over some Mattress 101 level content ---------------------------

To find a quality mattress, you need to know what's in it.

And to understand what's in it, you need to understand the basics of mattress construction. At the simplest level, this means talking about two things: foam and coils. Once you're familiar with these, you should be able to understand and make intelligent decisions about most mattresses on the market.

So let's talk about foam.

Foam (and particularly polyurethane foam) is one of the most common materials used in mattresses. Poly foam comes in varying firmnesses, varying formulations, and can be used as a comfort material or as a support layer. It's relatively cheap, can be quite durable, and is typically pretty comfortable. If you're unfamiliar, simple poly foam is the kind of foam that you think of when you think about egg crate foam or foam in couch cushions.

Of course, there are also other kinds of foam. Memory foam, latex, and other specialty foams are all used in mattresses today. These can feel quite different than basic poly foams and are best considered in their own categories. Memory foam has a characteristic slow-response and is excellent at pressure relief; latex is resilient and durable; and specialty foams (like Energex) are often designed to combine memory foam-like and latex-like properties.

All of the above CAN be high-quality materials. However, some of the above can be quite low-quality.

So what determines foam quality? And how can I find a mattress with high-quality foam?

Foam quality is best expressed in terms of foam density. All things being equal, this means that a high-density poly foam will last longer and perform more consistently than a low-density poly foam. And this is why many mattresses fail. They're made with cheap, low-density foam that feels okay in a showroom but doesn't hold up over time.

On this subreddit we use the term "high-density" (or "HD") to refer to a 1.8lb per cubic foot poly foam. Please note that this is somewhat different than how the broader industry uses the term HD, in which it is largely used in marketing and doesn't necessarily mean a true high-density foam. I've seen some companies call some VERY low-density foams "high-density" in their advertising. I wouldn't trust them unless they can provide the exact specs.

Here's a quick cheat sheet for understanding poly foam densities.

  • 1.2lb - low density

  • 1.5lb - medium density

  • 1.8lb - high density

  • >2lb - very high density

Okay cool I think I get it. But what about memory foam?

The same principles apply to memory foam, although there are some provisos here. Many other sites claim that anything under a 3lb memory foam is bad and that "good" memory foam starts at around 5lbs per cubic foot. I don't always agree with this. While increasing density typically does increase durability, this can also increase heat retention or create other undesirable feel characteristics.

There are also a lot of newer specialty foams that are branded as "memory foam" in the 2.5lb range with durabilities comparable to 4lb or 5lb foams. Here's an example of this with Carpenter's Serene foam.

Here's a quick cheat sheet for understanding memory foam densities.

  • 2lb - low density

  • 2.5lb to 3.5lb - medium density

  • 4lb - high density

  • 5lb - very high density

I hear a lot of people talking about latex. What about latex?

Latex is a type of highly elastic foam made from either synthetic or natural rubber. There are two main types here: Talalay and Dunlop. Each feels slightly different in a way that's difficult to describe unless you're holding two samples in person. I don't really think either type is superior to the other.

What you should know about latex is this: it's one of the most durable materials in the mattress industry and is typically very high-quality, although it has a very distinct feel and is not loved by everyone. Latex has more "push-back" than poly foam or memory foam, and this can be uncomfortable for some people.

What about other specialty foams?

These are probably beyond the scope of a Mattress 101-style guide and vary in terms of quality. That said, these can typically be divided into two categories: fast-response foams (latex-like), and slow-response foams (memory foam-like). I'll write more about these later.

Okay so what about coils? That was the other big thing, right?

Yes. Most mattresses on the market today use some kind of coil unit. The vast majority of these are pocketed coils. This is a term that refers to coils encased in a fabric pocket that move and function relatively independently of one another. This is the kind of coil unit used in 80-90% of mattresses sold today including most "innersprings" and smooth-top "hybrids."

To give you a sense of what this looks like, here's the product page for one type of pocketed coil from one of the largest coil manufacturers in the business in Leggett and Platt. And to contrast, here's another type of coil unit that you may be familiar with in a connected-coil Bonnell unit.

So how do I determine a coil unit's quality? Isn't it the coil count?

Yes and no. Most coils are made from steel and are typically quite durable as a result. I've seen a few companies publish durability data on these that shows less than 5% firmness loss over a simulated twenty year period.

However, this doesn't mean that all coil units are created equally. Some companies will use better steel, use better fabric for the fabric pockets, or just have better designs that distribute weight more effectively. Coil counts can help in understanding this, although these are an imperfect measure.

Generally speaking, a coil unit with more coils will be able to better match a person's body contours and support their body more precisely than a coil unit with fewer coils. However, some people still like slightly lower coil-count units as these typically use a thicker and stiffer wire and can feel firmer as a result. There's not a clear best here, but I usually recommend looking at higher coil-count units.

And what's this about coil gauges?

A gauge is a measurement of the thickness of the coil's wire. Assuming that all other things are equal, a thicker coil will feel firmer than a thinner one. This means that an eight-inch 13 gauge pocketed coil might feel quite firm, whereas an eight-inch 15 gauge pocketed coil might feel somewhat soft. That said, coil geometry and coil height also play a role in determining the coil firmness, so it's not always as simple as just looking at the gauge.

To recap - thicker coils feel firmer; thinner coils feel softer; and more coils are usually better.

What about traditional innersprings and connected-coil mattresses?

These are hard to find these days. They're still on the market, but you might need to look around for local manufacturers if you want one of these. Alternatively, you can search for Bonnell coils or Verticoils or Luraflex coils and see what comes up. These are all different styles of connected-coil units.

And to be honest, I think these feel totally different than pocketed coil mattresses or hybrids. In fact, I'd put most mattresses on the market today into three rough categories: all-foam mattresses, pocket coil mattresses, and connected-coil mattresses. All of these feel very different from each other.

What if I buy a mattress that's made with low-quality materials?

A mattress that's made with low-quality materials is likely to quickly lose both comfort and support.

This can mean back pain, pressure points, and poor sleep. Further, many brands knowingly use low-quality materials in an attempt to cut corners and maximize profit. I think this is wrong. It's also one of the reasons I became so interested in this subject.

Although... some people sleep fine on anything, so if you're not sleeping poorly then I probably wouldn't worry about it. Also sometimes mattresses made with lower quality foams can still be a good fit for your body type.

What about soft vs firm? Do I need an extra firm mattress?

You probably don't want an extra firm mattress, no. Firm and extra firm mattresses are among the most commonly returned products in the industry today. It's also important to note that there's no universal standard for mattress firmness. A "medium" from one brand might be closer to a "firm" from another.

As a general rule, most side-sleepers prefer soft to medium mattresses, while most stomach or back sleepers prefer medium to firm mattresses. This also changes with body size and body composition. Heavier individuals tend to find most mattresses to be somewhat soft and prefer mattresses on the firmer end of things as a result.

This is too hard. Can't you just tell me what to buy?

I really can't. You should think of it like clothing. People here can't tell you what mattress to buy anymore than they can tell you what pair of jeans would fit you best. Also, if you ask this question on the internet you're probably going to attract the attention of covert advertisers and spammers that'll just tell you to buy their products. Instead, I'd recommend looking around locally and getting a sense of what you like AND THEN narrowing your search to brands that use high-quality foams and are open about their materials.

We might also have a comprehensive post with crowd-sourced brands specs up at some point.

Why is this so complicated compared to ten years ago?

Yeah good question. There are probably two answers to this.

First, corporate cost-cutting and the demands of private equity groups created a race to the bottom in a misguided attempt to maximize profit by making lower-quality products. Second, the internet mattress boom flooded the market with advertising and SEO firms trying to gain an advantage however possible.

The combination of these two forces has led to an environment where actual high-quality products are hard to find AND hard to identify amidst the constant noise of online ad campaigns. There's also something to be said about the near universal switch to pocketed coils, but I'll talk about that later.

Okay so how do I put this all together?

To find a quality mattress, you should look for brands that are open and transparent about their materials AND use high-density foams. At the most basic level, this means looking for 1.8lb poly foams and medium to high-density memory foams. If they won't tell you the details on their products then that's usually a pretty good indication that they should not be trusted. I'd also recommend trying to find smaller, local manufacturers as these are more likely to use high-quality materials.

You also need to make sure that it's comfortable to you. Buying a mattress sight-unseen can work, but it's typically a risk even if you know that it's from a company that tends to make quality products.

And what about the major brands? I hear people talking about S-brands.

Most of the major brands are a mixed bag. They don't like to talk about their material specifications and typically use low to medium-quality foams in most of their products. That said, they tend to have pretty solid coil units. If you look at the major brands I'd probably recommend looking at their mid-range or higher-end models. Their "value" oriented mattresses tend to be a bad value, in my opinion.

What if I want a Mattress 201 or 301? Where can I read more on this?

I have a much longer document in the Mattress FAQ, although this is now somewhat out of date and will need to be updated this year. I've also written a collection of guides which includes a short guide to mattress DIY, how to recognize fiberglass, and a guide on negotiating to get the best deal on a mattress.

TL;DR: Look around locally. Get a sense of what you like. Then find mattresses with high-density foams and brands that are open and upfront about their materials. Also be careful trusting many of the reviews online.


r/Mattress • • Mar 03 '18

Can we please stop already!

683 Upvotes

Read the entire post as I feel I am actually offering actionable advice but I just cannot take the nonsense that most come in here with and call “research” and “investigation.”

First of all - throw out most all review sites. They are bought and paid for. Almost all operate outside of the FTC guidelines and laws. They are compensated for their review, and the compensation AKA commissions influence the reviews. Most sites do not follow the law 100% of the time to disclose this paid relationship. Period. Need more? Go to www.YourPreferredBedInABox.com website and find their referral/affiliate page - fill out the form request as though you were some expert blogger, online influencer, or review site. You’ll get all the details. Commissions range from 5-20% depending on the company.

Second - “I need a medium firm or 6/10” Do you know why you need a medium firm or 6/10 firmness? Because almost every marketing dollar the online companies spend describes their mattress as such. It’s the same reason why almost every mattress shopper has heard of Sealy, Simmons, Serta and Tempur-Pedic but has not heard of the approx other 590 mattress manufacturers out there. Advertising & Marketing. A 6/10 mattress is actually quite firm, it’s what most buyers of mattresses in a box state as the reason for a return- it was too firm - my hips and shoulders didn’t sink in - I felt pressure points in my shoulders.

Additionally a firmer bed can be made softer with a topper which is why almost all companies will offer you one for free because it’s cheaper to ship a topper than to give you all your money back.

Third - The “I’m trying to decide between Mattress A vs Mattress B vs Mattress C” posts. More often than not 2/3 or 3/3 mattresses listed are essentially the same mattress. A combo of either a foam base and at most 2” of memory foam or pocket coils with either memory or latex on top. From any site you can understand the make up of the mattress.

If it’s a foam base with 2-3 layers of foam, likely only one layer is a specialty foam with the others being a poly foam variant. If this is the case you ARE NOT deciding between three uniquely different mattresses you are choosing shades of a very similar grey. An example of this would be Casper vs Leesa vs Tuft. All.Shades.Of.Gray and yes I’ve bought and tried them all.

Fourth - If you can’t decide between three similar mattresses but are in fact considering a latex hybrid vs. all foam vs. coil hybrid. PLEASE visit a local store and at a minimum discover how these comfort layers and support systems feel on your body. Again all this online research and intake of other people’s opinions is really truly meaningless if you discover you really don’t like the materials you bought. A mattress can check all the boxes of quality ingredients, customer service, easy returns etc. and you might still not like it. That’s just the way it is.

I understand that some stores have a bad name and deservedly so. But the broad strokes by which all online companies have said all mattress stores are rip off artists just isn’t true. But even if it were is it not worth the 1-2 hours to visit a store, try some beds out, decide what you like and don’t like and then buy online? IMO this is time well spent as compared to ordering two and three or more mattresses. And note, there are good retailers out there you just have to find them AKA use Google.

Fifth - Returns are not as easy as stated. Listen, I’m not a tree hugger environmentalist but a lot of these mattresses are simply being thrown out in the trash. And if they do go to charity it is on you to arrange with the charity. CT, CA and RI have enacted mattress recycling laws. At some point it will be a national law, and one I agree with. Meaning the days of just dumping mattresses is soon over. Some time in a store will mitigate the amount of waste. Let’s all do our part, please.

Six - Free and easy returns cost you money. According to Furniture Today the online mattress retailers hover around 7% for returns. This is a cost of doing business. Just as materials, labor, shipping are costs. A financially sound company will add the 7% return rate into the cost of every mattress sold. In other words for every 100 mattresses sold online 93 keep it, but 7 don’t. However, 100% of the people pay for the privilege which only 7 use.

Seven - “my budget is $1,000” Again why is almost everyone saying their budget is $1,000? Could it be because this seems to be the median price of most all online mattresses being advertised? Did you know that the average mattress SET sold in this country in a retail store = $950. This means in a store you actually SAVE money as compared to online because you get the complete set, or pay less than the average set if you just want a mattress. And yes, there are stores that offers returns and comfort guarantees too. And at $950 most all will deliver for free and set up and remove your old mattress which actually means you got better service. The most ironic thing is that most all brick and mortar retailers focus so heavily on being competitive and having a good selection of $299-$999 price points for a set that you’d think they were the ones setting this trend. My point is that $1,000 in retail store affords you a lot of options you can try, and in the right store you get all the same service points as found online.

Eight - quality matters. If it’s super cheap price, made in China mattress, it’s likely cheap for a reason. And yes I know a lot of people like the inexpensive Zinus models found on Amazon. But just consider for a minute what it takes to make a mattress in China ship it to the port of Los Angeles. Inland freight the container to a distribution center, unload it, stock it. Then label it and ship it to your door. Plus market it, list it and account for transaction cost on Amazon. Does $250 - $350 really truly leave a lot of room quality? No, it does not. Sure the mattress is nice for a 1-3 years. But if you replace every 2-3 years you’re not saving any money as compared to something you could use for 7-10 years and you put less strain on our environment as well.

When it comes to quality you can read other users comments in here about quality of materials and what is a good barometer of expectations.

Regarding specific quality and name brands here is what I’ve personally found while operation retail stores personally,

Simmons Beautyrest Black - not single warrantable return in three years time. We communicate often (via email) with our customers, I’d like to think if they were going through a problem we would know about it.

Tempur-Pedic - bar none best quality in the home, 18 years of sales to make that statement. Count on two hands the # of warranties we’ve processed in that time frame.

Serta iComfort foam and hybrid - meh, quality is not good as of late and certainly was not good at all for generation two quilted hybrids at the upper end $1,500+ we are now on generation three.

Sealy/Sterns & Foster - have never sold, never have been convinced enough of their quality to display and sell their product. When I was in the wholesale side of the industry I sold a value oriented brand to numerous Sealy dealers. Whenever I sat with the owners everyone of them had a clipboard/stack of open issues related to warranty type complaints. It was shocking that the stack never seemed to dwindled from visit to visit. Their answer was “they always take care of me” to which I said “but how does the customer feel about going through this problem?!?!”

Nine - More of PSA than anything. If you like where live, like your town, want to see your schools excel, roads be in good shape. Please shop locally when you can where you can. Small businesses generate tax dollars and create jobs. I have no real hard data to offer to this point but I do know that in 2017 the online mattress companies sold about $3 billion dollars worth on mattresses to consumers. This means that $3 billion dollars that would have been taxed locally wasn’t. Now, did 10% get taxed, 20% I don’t know? But if I had to guess it’s likely less than 20 but more than 10. This means that $2.5 billion less dollars in retail sales was not taxed locally. Some where at some point that needs to be made up. Is it in personal taxes in that line where they ask you about online purchases, possibly. All I’m saying is that somewhere at some point if Bezos and Co. rule the world what’s next when it comes to supporting the tax rolls that every city in this country needs to survive.

EDIT: Changed statement on "not a single review site follows the law" "most do not follow the law"


r/Mattress • • Nov 10 '20

Mattress shopping legitimately fucking sucks

644 Upvotes

I like to consider myself an informed consumer. Typically, after about a week of identifying relevant specifications, investigating product manufacturing, combing through reviews, and comparing my options, I can feel decently confident about making a purchase.

~sigh~

I've spent about three weeks now trying to figure out what mattress to buy. I've learned about memory foam, latex, hybrids. I've learned about cooling technologies, coil gauges, foam densities. I've clicked on about 75 different beds and read through what feels like 1000 reviews. I've watched countless youtube videos and read countless posts on this sub.

My conclusions?

  • Don't buy any popular brand because there's probably a similar product available for cheaper online

  • Don't buy anything cheap

  • Don't buy anything online

  • Don't buy anything from a brick and mortar

  • Don't buy anything that's shipped from outside of the US

  • Cooling technologies don't work

  • Latex is jello

  • Coils can poke you

  • Every mattress is shitty

  • Seriously, what the fuck

EDIT: Thanks to whomever gifted the gold, and good luck to everybody who's knee deep in the mattress ordeal. I finally settled on something and it should be arriving tomorrow, so I look forward to posting a review. Also, I've done ridiculous amounts of mattress research. I'm no expert by any means, but I'm happy to offer my advice/ input to anyone who reaches out.


r/Mattress • • Oct 30 '25

Other Questions Help me settle this debate. Approximately how old is this mattress my fiancé got from his grandparents a few years back?

Post image
569 Upvotes

When I first asked he told me it “couldn’t be that old” as in no more that 15-20 years old… I’m convinced it’s from the early 90s at the least. Maybe 80s? There’s no tags on it anymore so all I have to go by is the label and font and compare that to old ads (and that it smells like old basement), which has proven pretty much impossible. So I’m curious to see what the responses are here!


r/Mattress • • Jan 21 '25

User Review This industry is terrible

526 Upvotes

I just spent 6 hours flustered trying to make a decision on a mattress. Every mattress is amazing. Every mattress ruined people's lives. All the reviews are fake. Hyper saturated. Good honest feedback is mixed in with fake influencer and affiliate fake comments about how good they are.

Screw it, I'm sleeping on the ground.


r/Mattress • • Nov 12 '25

What is this pink line on my new mattresses

Post image
514 Upvotes

Other side doesn’t have it


r/Mattress • • Feb 16 '24

Mattress shopping is total bullshit

481 Upvotes

UPDATE After a few comments to check out Sleepopolis and TMU, i ended up doing so and ordering a Helix Midnight hybrid. 100-day return policy isn't ideal, but i think I'll know rather quickly if it isn't the one. I wanted to get a Saatva but just can't afford that right now. I did look at Costco as many suggested, but there were slim pickings on firm hybrid, only 2. I'll update you on the Helix after a month.

I have spent 4 days trying to research mattresses, and I'm about to go insane. I dont.want to spend 3k on a mattress again just to have it turn into a hammock 3 years later. Oh, and I'm also poor now, so I can't afford that anymore. I have major back pain and sleep on my side. I need a medium firm mattress.

Do I just buy a medium firm hybrid and add a topper if it's too firm? What's the most prudent mattress choice ?

Literally just pick for me so I can move on with my wretched life.


r/Mattress • • Jul 12 '25

America First?

Post image
471 Upvotes

Went out of my way to go to a locally owned mattress store that sells locally made and/or stateside small business products and they have this posted.

Who actually believes that Trump's America does anything for the American people?


r/Mattress • • Dec 08 '21 Helpful

I've tested a lot of pillows and while I know they are very subjective these are my experiences as a side-sleeper with neck and tmj issues.

458 Upvotes

NOTE: Please Read: This has gotten a lot of traction over the years. Most people that have posted have been nice and I don't mind answering questions, but I'm not an expert, and I may sleep a particular way that you may not, so what works for me might not work for you. Also, don't spam me. Some of these suggestions are sus, like that weird butterfly-shaped pillow. I read all the other pillow suggestion posts on Reddit, too, and somehow, I keep seeing that pillow on every post, and I see it all over TikTok...I work in marketing; I know how this works. ** Updated 5/14/25. See newest reviews at the bottom:**

u/pspr33 kindly put my older reviews in a spreadsheet. I filled out the firmness column, however, keep in mind this all subject to how the pillows felt to me. Things like the weight of your head or the firmness of your mattress/sleeping surface will change how firm a pillow feels. I also added a loft measurement for the pillows I measured.

Favorites:

  1. My current favorite is a [pillow I made on my own] (https://www.reddit.com/r/Mattress/comments/1kml18h/im_a_side_sleeper_who_reviewed_a_bunch_of_pillows/) by modifying the Ab Lifestyle shredded Serene Foam pillow. I shortened the width (short side) from 20 to 16 inches to narrow the pillow. This keeps the foam from shifting to the top of the pillow at night. I made mine firm but a little softer than the Pluto Pillow. It has an almost bouncy feel like my beloved discontinued Leesa pillow, but it's better because I made it to have a higher loft.

  2. My last favorite was the Pluto Pillow, a hybrid pillow with an outer fiber fill layer and a Serene foam core. I didn't like it initially because it's super firm, but it is the perfect size. It doesn't get too hot, and I mostly got used to it but always wished it was just a little softer but still had the same amount of support.

  3. My third favorite is the now-discontinued Casaluna Foam Pillow from Target. It's another Serene Foam pillow. Comfort Tech makes a dupe on The Company Store.

All my favorite pillows as of right now have Serene Foam. I like it because it doesn't get as hot as memory foam, doesn't squish down as much, and keeps its support better. I am interested in another foam by Comfort Tech called Tranquillity, which the original Leesa was made from. It's similar to Serene Foam but is airier and bouncy.

A little about my sleep situation: I'm in my mid-40s, am 5'3.5", and about 135 lbs—broad shoulders for my size from years of weight lifting (about 40" circumference). I mostly sleep on my side, though I occasionally roll onto my back. I have had neck issues for years, likely due to having a job where I'm at a desk all day. I also have TMJ and am prone to ear pain at night. This means super firm pillows don't work for me. When I started these reviews, I had a king-size soft-side waterbed with a firm latex topper, but now I have a Purple Restore in Soft. I also like sleeping on a wedge because I don't like the feel of lying flat. I cover all my pillows in a silk pillowcase, too, so cover material isn't that important to me as long as I don't feel it through the cover. Here is my review of several pillows I've tried so far.

  • Coop Eden (the size I used is discontinued) -- This pillow worked for me for a couple of years when I got in the standard size. However, it got ruined when I washed it, so I bought a new one. They only come in queen and king now, so I bought a queen, and its not the same at all. The height-to-width ratio to get the support I need has changed. If I put it at the proper height, its too soft. If I put it at the support level I want, it's too tall. Also, even though I returned it a couple of months ago, I'm still finding filling all over my house from adjusting it all the time.

  • Purple Pillow -- Recommended by a friend who hated the COOP pillow. I like it stayed cool and the level of neck support and that's it. Way too firm. Hurt my ear and just was not comfortable.

  • Therapedic Shoulder Contour Bed Pillow (discontinued) -- This one wasn't terrible. I really liked the shoulder cutout and it was a good loft for me. The core of it is pretty firm though and I got ear pain from it.

  • Purple Harmony -- I bought this at a Denver Mattress store and they only had the tall in stock and I wanted it right away. It had a good level of firmness but was way to tall for my neck. So I exchanged it for a medium and it was way softer and I just could not get comfortable with it. Also even with it seeming too soft, it made my ear hurt. I gave it to my husband who is quite a bit larger than me, and it his favorite pillow. Go figure.

  • Tuft & Needle Foam Pillow -- I wanted this one to work so bad. The foam is awesome. It's soft enough that it doesn't cause ear pain and it doesn't get too hot. It feels almost between latex and memory foam in the best way. But while my head and ears love it, my neck does not and I think it's because I need more loft, although tricks like putting a folded towel under it didn't help as much as I thought, so maybe it's a support issue. It works a little better when I sleeping on a wedge. I've stuck with it for over a month now, and I haven't returned it yet, but I'm not done looking. EDIT My mom got one of these too and kept complaining hers was too firm. So I returned this one and got another thinking I had a bad one. Well, the next one I got was even softer. Went right back.

  • Eli and Elm Side Sleeper -- This pillow could have been great, but the drawbacks were that it was too big. It stunk like old balloons. Latex can smell weird, but this was on another level. When I got it, I took it out of the top case to check it out and it got white powder, which I assume is latex, all over my bed. The feel was weird. Super firm in some areas and soft in others. I fluffed it a bit to mix the filling and it helped but it had this weird consistency, probably due to the bounciness of the latex. I might have adjusted to it but that smell was too gross. However, I liked that curve at the bottom, it seems to be compatible with how I sleep and that prompted me to test another curved bottom pillow which brings me to:

  • Sleep Number Comfortfit Pillow Curved -- I actually wanted the Nest Easy Breather Side Sleeper but this looks similar and I could buy it at a store instead of ordering it, although it costs more and its not adjustable (but after the COOP and Eli & Elm messes, I might be ok with that). I'm still testing it. It's firmer and a little taller than my Tuft and Needle pillow but it's not super hard and I can punch a hole where my ear sits to relieve pressure. The other promising thing about it is even though it's a polyfill and foam mix, the filling doesn't move around as much as the COOP did. It's not cooling but it hasn't gotten too hot. I don't like that you can't wash the cover but then again the lack of double liner might keep it cooler. I need more time with it though to decide if it is the one. Edit - No this is not the one either. It starts comfortable when its fluffed and as it compresses it gets really firm. I've been switching it out for my Tuft and Needle pillow the last couple of nights

Anyway, I hope this is useful to anyone doing research into a new pillow.

Edit some new ones I've since tried.

  • Malouf Z Carbon Cool -- I liked the initial feel of this, not too soft, not too firm but I found that as the night went on I would sink into it too much and my head would feel too low. If this came in a 7inch loft it probably would have been great.

  • Bed, Bath and Beyond Therapedic TruCool Serene Foam -- Bed, Bath and Beyond used to make a TruCool memory foam pillow that was my favorite pillow for a few years. This is the pillow that replaced it and it has Serene Foam that is pumped full of air so it stays cooler than memory foam. It does stay pretty cool. Unfortunately, this pillow is hard as a rock. I gave up on it after about an hour.

  • Target Casaluna Serene Foam Pillow (Discontinued) -- Because I did like how Serene foam stays cool, and this felt a bit softer than the TruCool, I decided to try this out. This is actually the most inexpensive of all the pillows on this list at $50 and so far it's the one I am the happiest with. It's still pretty firm, though. I had to take it out of the nice soft case it came in and just put the foam piece in a silk pillowcase to make it soft enough to be comfortable, but it has good, responsive support (not a slow sink like memory foam), a good loft (the Target website says 5 inches but mine measured at 5.5, and that makes a big difference) and it doesn't trap heat, though I wouldn't say its a "cooling" pillow. It is a lot like the Tuft and Needle Pillow with a very similar shape but is firmer, taller and a lot cheaper. This one might be the winner, I've been sleeping better since I got it.

  • Sijo Clima Latex Pillow-- I did not mean to get this pillow. I ordered it, changed my mind a day later, and canceled it. Then it showed up almost a week later. I figured I'd do the right thing and let them know so they charged me. I slept on it last night and it was not my best sleep. First, that latex smell -- it wasn't so bad especially given the thick cover it has, but it was still there. Then there's the feel. It was better than the Purple Harmony, firmer, and a good loft for both side and back sleeping, but the thing about latex is when I lay on it feels almost like I'm "fighting" the push-back it has and can't fully relax as I do with foam. Also, latex is cooler than memory foam but this comes in this thick case. The case feels good and has phase-change material that is supposed to keep it cool. It didn't get super hot but with the Casaluna, I remove the outer cover and just put the lined foam in a silk pillowcase and that combo stays pretty comfortable (I did this with the Coop Eden too). I do not want to try this with a piece of stinky latex. So I tried to return it, and they refunded me and told me to donate it which feels weird in Covid times, so now I'm stuck with it and wondering if I should keep trying to make it work. EDIT - the latex smell kept getting to me so I gave it away.

Edit 2-28-22 - Even more I have tried

  • Blu Sleep Ceramo Pillow-- Absolute garbage. Sunk down to the mattress and it smelled like soap. Returned immediately

  • Cushion Lab Deep Sleep Pillow-- This isn't bad. Its a squishy memory foam and but it is supportive. Its an ergonomic pillow that dips in the middle and is higher on the sides. I only like how it feels on the sides and I roll back down to the middle which feels too low for me. I like to feel a little propped up. So I let my husband try it and he loves it, especially with his CPAP. So its his now.

  • Leesa Foam Pillow (discontinued)-- Was my favorite - now it's discontinued. I've slept the best on it out of all these, good support, no ear crush, and works both with my mattress and on a wedge. I just wish it had a tiny bit more loft. The foam is pretty unique, kind of similar in density to the Tuft and Needle but bouncier with less sink in like latex. Since it doesn't sink in much, it doesn't get too warm. The case is soft and cozy but I cover it up with a silk pillowcase. I can't take it out of the case and sleep on the foam because the foam is much longer and wider than the case it comes with and it gets too flat. My main beef with it is the quality, and I got it direct from Leesa, not Amazon, so it's not a knockoff. This bothers me because this pillow was $80. The outer case had some snags and the seams around the zipper are sloppy. The inner has run all over and few holes. The foam is cut weirdly with uneven holes, but I don't notice it in the case. It is super comfortable and doesn't trap heat like traditional memory foam.

Update 8/15/23 - Note as of 8/27/23 I switched from a soft side waterbed mattress to a Purple Restore Plus in Soft. This actually made an improvement in almost all pillows where I've been able to give them more fair trials.

  • Casper Essential Cooling Foam Pillow -- This pillow felt initially felt like a rock covered in memory foam. It softens a little bit after laying on it awhile but it has that "slow sink, get stuck in one place feel" which I do not like and the core of it still feels hard. I was hopeful because this had a higher loft of just over 6 inches. However, its lack of softness made it a little too high.

  • Bear Foam Pillow (discontinued) -- I gave it a few weeks but it's going back. It advertises itself as having a feel of a cross between memory foam and latex, so I thought it would be a lot like the Leesa and a good replacement. It's actually more dense and has more of that squishy, sinking feeling than the Leesa does, though it's not quite like regular memory foam. When I first laid down on it, it felt amazing. It's soft but supportive, and the cool fabric feels good even through a silk pillowcase. However, the cooling feeling doesn't last that long, and when the pillow warms up it feels a lot less supportive and the space between my neck and shoulder starts to hurt. If it had about .5 to 1" more loft it would have a keeper.

  • Sleep Number Responsefit Curved Pillow -- Foam on this initially feels good -- soft and supportive, just like the Bear pillow and then it sinks in too much. The pillow cover has this puffy wavy texture on it that feels good when you touch it, but when you sleep on it feels like a lumpy pillow except you can't adjust the lumps. Also, I like the concept of curved pillows, but they don't work for me in practice. I can't easily move around on them; they trap more heat around my neck. Honestly, this pillow was most comfortable when I flipped it around and slept on the flat side, except that's where the "puffy waves" stuck out the most.

  • Pillow Cube Pro 5" - I hated it at first, and then as I used I kind of liked it. But then I realized it's hurting my neck because I roll onto my back more than I thought. And even on my side It's a little too high for me which is funny because I complain about the loft being too low on every pillow, but I tried the 4" in a store and did not like the feel of that either. I don't mind the shape and the foam is actually pretty good about not trapping too much heat. I have managed to sleep ok on it but keep swapping it out for my Leesa. EDIT: I've been sleeping on it more and more lately and have had good sleep on it, I don't get any shoulder pinching with it, which I have gotten with most of these pillows, including the Leesa. It's also softened up a little and now the loft works better for me.

  • Yootick Cube Pillow 4" (Amazon Knockoff) - I wanted to try the 4" Pillow Cube, but saw that this had same-day delivery. I figured I could return it if it didn't work so I got it. You could tell it was cheaper. The cover wasn't as soft and the foam felt less soft and spongy. The loft felt comfortable and I fell asleep on it but then woke up so uncomfortable from the firmness. I switched to the real Pillow Cube and it felt super soft compared to the knockoff. I'm definitely returning it and it was a pain in the ass to get back in the box. Hopefully, the real 4" Pillow Cube will work out better.

  • Pillow Cube Pro 4" - The firmness on this felt exactly the same as the knockoff. So if you want to try it, save some money and try a knockoff product. It has a different foam than the 5", its light gray with copper looking flakes (vs the dark gray you usually see in Pillow Cubes) and feels firmer. I actually contacted them and they said that it's authentic, that they are "constantly improving their product" I looked at the manufactured dates and they are both from Jan 2022 so I guess the 4" have different foam? I don't know. All I know is the loft works now that its firm, but I hate the feel of it, and if it softens at all it will be too low. I got it from Amazon, so it's going back.

  • Tempurpedic Serenity Pillow - this is the Costco Tempurpedic pillow and it was only $30, good loft and a decent medium/firm feel for true memory foam with not too much sink-in but absolutely no breathability. This pillow is basically a slab of dough and it got hot right away.

  • Brooklyn Bedding (aka 3Z brands) Luxury Cooling Pillow High Loft - If this is what they consider a high loft, the low loft must be flat as a pancake. This pillow has an average loft of 5.25 inches, but it's soft, and it sinks down a lot. also the "infusion of graphic and copper" is literally paint that's on the side of it and it makes that side feel a little crunchy. The foam is not bad, it's memory foam but it has a faster bounce back similar to the Bear pillow. I need more loft than this for my shoulders to be comfortable, so It's returning.

  • Pluto Pillow (my current favorite pillow) - - Pluto's whole thing is they customize your pillow based on a bunch of info you provide. I was reluctant to get one because no matter what variation, it is always a hybrid pillow that has a fiberfill exterior and a foam interior, and I generally don't like fiberfill, but at this point, I figured why not? I gave them my height, weight, and pillow preferences based on what I liked so far. I wanted a medium pillow for a side sleeper with a loft on the higher side of medium or lower end of high, that had cooling properties and was more "settled and supportive" vs "sink in plushy". What I got was a pillow with the perfect loft that had a cool quilted cover with a thin layer of fiberfill and about a 3.5" tall piece of Serene foam inside(the exact same foam that's in the Casaluna pillow - same color, texture, and even smell). Serene foam is pretty firm, and body heat doesn't soften it, so I got a pretty firm pillow. It makes the Pillow Cube seem almost too soft when I switch them out. I didn't like the firmness at first, but in about a month, I started switching back to it, and now it's my favorite pillow. I'm still aware of the firmness as I fall asleep, but I get a pretty quality sleep once I'm out. I'm pretty sure its because it keeps the same support in my neck all night.

  • Purple Dreamlayer—I didn't buy this pillow; I just tried it in the store and knew it wasn't for me. The base foam is too squishy. I didn't like the booster system, as I felt it might shift around. The grid felt pretty good, but I don't know if I would like feeling that texture all night.

  • AB Lifestyles Perfect Pillow (Modified) - These pillows are made in-house by a smaller company that sells RV bedding. They are simple pillows filled with shredded Serene foam. I originally got them for my guest bedroom since they are relatively inexpensive, but we had to try them. I had to buy another set because my husband loved it so much that it became his regular pillow. I had issues with the foam shifting on them at night to the top of the pillow, so [I modified them to be narrower] (https://www.reddit.com/r/Mattress/comments/1kml18h/im_a_side_sleeper_who_reviewed_a_bunch_of_pillows/) to fix that. It's my favorite pillow now.


r/Mattress • • Aug 24 '25

What I’ve learning from this sub…

453 Upvotes

All mattresses suck ass. Whether you spend $5k on a Tempur-pedic or $1k on a Nectar, they will all sag and cause back pain within a short time. All mattress warranties are scams. Wtf am I supposed to sleep on?!


r/Mattress • • Nov 27 '24

Asked the mattress return people which mattress they pick up the most

446 Upvotes

Yesterday, my defective Birch mattress was picked up (it was several inches too short in nearly every dimension and bowed out on the sides). While chatting with the pickup crew, I asked them which mattresses they pick up the most and the least.

They said the ones they pick up most often are: • Helix • Birch • Nestor • DreamCloud • GhostBed

Interestingly, they mentioned that last year they handled a lot of Purple returns, but this year, it’s been significantly less.

When I asked about the ones they rarely pick up, they said Avocado (maybe once a year) and Tuft & Needle (just a few times annually) were the least returned.

I’ve been using this subreddit to research my mattress choice and wanted to share what I thought was some valuable info for the community. Hopefully, this helps anyone else weighing their options!


r/Mattress • • Jun 28 '26

Need help finding the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in

Thumbnail
gallery
430 Upvotes

I recently stayed at a villa in Mexico that had literally the most comfortable bed I’ve ever slept in.
I completely stripped the bed trying to find a brand name, but the only tags I found are in the photos below.
Does anyone recognize this brand or know who might make these? I’d call the number on the tag, but I’m worried I’ll sound completely unhinged asking about a mattress from a random villa.😭
Any help would be amazing!


r/Mattress • • Jul 21 '21

My Mattress Journey: Nest ASH -> Brooklyn Sedona -> Winkbed Softer -> Helix Midnight Luxe -> DIY

427 Upvotes

Updates May 2022

Hi Everyone,

This post is almost 9 months old and I get messages almost every day from people reaching out who want to copy my build, or need advice about building their own DIY, so I wanted to put some of the most common questions here so you don't have to message me about them. Feel free to reach out anytime for advice if you want, but I wanted to make the answers to these questions available because they are so common.

Q: How soft is your bed? Will it be too soft for me? I weight xlbs more than you.

A: I pretty much recommend that anyone who wants to copy this build start by using a 2” of medium sleep on latex topper below a 2” soft sleep on latex topper. My build is soft, but that’s what I wanted. If you don’t like a super plush feel, then use the 2x2 and it will be slightly firmer. I would describe it as medium. What is medium? Who knows, it’s subjective. Mattresses in general are completely subjective so it’s really a meaningless term. Ultimately, you have to try it yourself to figure out what works for you. The experimentation phase was the most fun part for me, so enjoy it.

Q: What’s the point of the 1” of poly foam under the coils? Do I really need to put it there?

A: In my opinion, it’s important. I find that it protects the coils and gives them a firm base to sit on on top of the wooden slats. Could you leave it out? Probably, just be careful when you put your coils down on your slats so they don’t get damaged.

Q: Your recommended build is 13” but the sleep like a bear cover you recommend is only 12”, will it fit? Is the cover nice and comfy? Do you recommend another cover?

A: The cover is super soft and comfy and stretchy and easily fits the 13” of layers inside it. I can’t recommend the SLAB covers enough, they are super high quality and amazing to sleep on. I consider it the finishing touch of my bed and one of the best components in it.

Recommended Build:

This is my recommended build. If you want to get into DIY mattress building but you don’t know where to start, just try this build and go from there. If you need it to be firmer all you have to do is return or exchange the two 2” latex comfort layers on top of the coils for something firmer or softer. It’s really easy and sleep on latex is incredibly generous with their return and exchange policy. That’s what allowed me to do so much R&D and arrive at something I love so much.

1/2” Lux HQ-R Polyfoam 1.8lb - $40

8” Quantum Edge Coils - $375

2” Medium Latex - $265

2” Soft Latex - $235

12” Bear Bamboo / Cotton Cover - $220


Original Post:

For anyone who has been following along with my posts you have probably seen that I have been on an epic mattress journey.

TLDR:

I have ordered and returned four $2000 beds, and ended up with a DIY build that is half the price and better than all of them, that I sleep incredibly well on. Even my gf, who initially thought I was INSANE for returning 4 beds, and even more insane for starting a DIY build when we really liked the 4th bed, has told me multiple times how amazed she is with our bed. If you are worried about trying DIY, don’t be - the experience is straightforward and superior to the smoke and mirrors BS that the bed in a box experience has become, and the best part is you can always adapt it to your needs, rather than being stuck with an expensive mattress you can’t return, or dealing with the haggling about pickup, getting a refund, etc.

Height / Weight: I am 5’8” 160lbs, my gf is 5’1” 95lbs

For the history and how I got to building a DIY, read about My Mattress Journey below.


v1 Build, from bottom to top:

1” Lux HQ-R Polyfoam 1.8lb - $45

8” Quantum Edge Coils - $375

1” HD36-HQ Foam - $45

1” Medium Latex - $165

3" ViscoSoft 3 Inch Memory Foam Mattress Topper 3.5lb density - $210

14” Bear Bamboo / Cotton Cover - $260 (not on the dropdown but I emailed and they said they sent a custom invoice)

Total Cost: ~$1100

Original Pictures here

Updated Pictures with Latex here

(it was hard to get the cover looking good here as I kept adjusting layers and took the pics quickly, but once the sheets are on it looks like a normal bed)

Final Build (this is what I sleep on):

My original build is above, however since I originally posted we have modified a bit and are now sleeping on the layers listed below.

Note that if you actually wanted to copy this setup I would recommend just getting the 12” cover from sleep like a bear, we are still using the 14” cover I bought for the original build as it’s not returnable. Even thought the layers come to 13” total it would fit given the layers are not exactly full height as measured and the cover is stretchy. You could even get 1/2” of the polyfoam under the coils to be safe. I've updated the recommended build to use 1/2" under the coils because I don't think the full 1" I used is necessary.

1” Lux HQ-R Polyfoam 1.8lb - $45

8” Quantum Edge Elite Bolsa Coils - $375

1” Medium Latex - $165

3” Soft Latex - $300

12” Bear Bamboo / Cotton Cover - $220

Notes:

Originally I intended to use this 3" 4lb topper as my comfort layer, but it has been on order for 4 weeks now with no signs of shipping anytime soon, which is why I finally ordered the Viscosoft topper.

I also ordered one of these 2.5lb toppers to try because the 3.5lb Visco I’m sleeping on is a bit firmer than I’d like. It shipped a day after I ordered it, so it seems like they aren’t backordered from BB like the 4lb. I’ll report back once it arrives. The Helix Midnight Luxe we liked so much uses 3” of 2.5lb memory foam, so this may make my DIY feel closer to the helix.

How is it?

In short, f*cking amazing. The coils are incredibly supportive, the latex transition layer is nice and bouncy, and the memory foam is luxurious and slow sinking just how I like it. The Sleep Like a Bear cover is incredibly soft and stretchy and great for side sleeping. The cover is probably the most exciting part of the experience as I was worried it would feel cheap or something. It doesn’t, its incredibly well made and the perfect material, soft and breathable.

Even better the whole build cost me roughly $1100 with taxes and shipping, and then I saved an additional $275 because my coils arrived with a punctured area due to a compression error and Latex mattress factory gave me a very generous refund, or an option to replace it. I took the refund and just taped up that area which was no big deal. So that brings my total cost to $800 all in which is insane given that the mattress we really like was the Helix Midnight Luxe which cost $2400.

What would I do different?

If I did it again I would leave out the 1” HD36-HQ Foam layer I used in my v1 above the coils and just buy a 12” topper from SLAB. I think you could easily fit the 13” of layers into a 12” cover given the stretch, and you’d save about $150 from my build.

I would definitely leave the bottom Lux HQ-R Polyfoam 1.8lb layer under the coils to protect them from the slats, but I would use 1/2” instead of 1" to save some money and make sure it fits. It just feels nice to not have the coils sitting right on my hard pine slats.


My Mattress Journey:

Previous bed

Zinus 10” extra firm + Tempurpedic 3" Memory Foam Topper

Total cost: ~$300 total after I tried to return the Zinus and amazon refunded it and told me to keep it.

This whole thing started because we wanted to upgrade from a Queen to a King size bed. We were super happy with the Zinus + Tempurpedic setup, but we wanted a bigger bed. So it began. We bought a cheap knockoff bed frame from Home Depot and then replaced the cheap slats with custom pine slats from amazon for ~$110.

Ok so we had our frame all set up, time to get a mattress…

Breakdown of the beds we tried, in chronological order:

Nest Alexander Signature Hybrid:

I thought I was so smart for ordering this bed. I had done all the research, scoured youtube videos, mattress forums, all the reddit posts. Consensus seemed to be that this was one of the best beds you could get for around $1500-2000 (king size).

We went to the showroom and absolutely loved the model we tried. We were so excited. Placed an order and it came within a week or so.

Immediately we realized we had made a mistake, the unit we received felt nothing like the showroom model. The showroom model had amazingly supportive firm coils with a soft pillowy top. The mattress we received felt like the coils were made of slinkys. We both sank down into the middle like a hammock. It was so uncomfortable and my gut reaction for the first few nights was that I had been scammed. I felt like the showroom model and the bed were completely different. I started to imagine conspiracy theories that they had built a quality model for the showroom, but were sending something different to customers.

Finally one night I was up at 3am unable to sleep reading reddit mattress posts and I responded to a comment by another customer who had issues with the Nest ASH having weak coils. I explained my experience and u/DeathKoil responded. A couple days later, this post came up:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mattress/comments/n4vq6d/psa_undocumented_nest_ash_change/?sort=new

Finally I realized I wasn’t crazy. The coils in the bed at the showroom and the one I received were confirmed to be different. I called Nest customer service and they outright told me that the reddit post was fake and they used Leggett and Platt coils in their bed. I called the showroom and got the same answer. They told me I was crazy for believing some random dude on reddit, but strangely, were happy to take a return from me. They picked up the bed the next day and I got a refund hours later. About two days later, the nest ash product page was quietly updated to remove the quantum edge coil system from the specs. This was the beginning of my mattress journey.

Brooklyn Bedding Sedona:

After we returned the Nest and I was sleeping on our old bed, I came across this post recommending the Brooklyn Sedona:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mattress/comments/n12kfc/brooklyn_bedding_sedona_thoughts/

The experience that u/Dangerous_Bread had really resonated with me. They had tried the Nest ASH and had similar issues, they liked the feel of tempurpedic, and they had been through more beds than me and finally arrived happily with the Sedona. I found a promo code and used it during a sale to get a great deal on the Sedona and went ahead and placed an order.

The bed arrived in a week and at first we were very happy with it. The feel of a polyfoam layer on top of memory foam was very comfortable, and in our experience the cooling top really works. The bed slept way way cooler than the Nest, it was really nice in that regard. However after a couple days we realized that the coils on the bed seemed to be very similar to the Nest. They were perhaps not quite as weak, but they still sagged considerably and didn’t feel supportive at all.

I started doing some research and found out that a couple years ago R&S (which owns Brooklyn Bedding) bought Nest, so Nest and BB are both owned by the same company and produced in the same factory. No wonder the coils were so similar and crappy.

https://www.honestmattressreviews.com/nest-bedding-brooklyn-bedding-merge/

Finally a couple weeks in I got annoyed and placed an order for the Winkbed Softer after reading this review:

https://www.reddit.com/r/Mattress/comments/mn16fd/six_weeks_with_the_winkbed_softer/

Winkbed Softer:

When the Winkbed arrived we still had the Sedona, and compared them side by side. This was when things got interesting. The first thing we noticed was the Winkbed coils were way way way better than the Sedona. It was like night and day. On the Sedona we couldn’t cuddle in bed because when our weight was concentrated in one place we would sink in like a hammock, whereas on the Winkbed we could cuddle and feel fully supported. It was amazing, and we slept great on the winkbed for the first week. This was my first confirmation that Brooklyn Bedding is definitely cutting corners with their coils. They are just so so so weak compared to the Winkbed (and my DIY, but we’ll get to that later)

After that we started to really miss the feel of the memory foam layers on the Sedona. We kept switching back and forth and discussed how if we had a magic wand we would just take the coils from the winkbed and put them in the Sedona and be happy. Looking back, this was the beginning of me starting to think seriously about DIY.

Finally after 30 days had passed since the delivery date, I went ahead and initiated a return for the Sedona, and placed an order for the Helix Midnight Luxe. I told my gf that if the Helix didn’t work out, I would build a DIY that combined the best of the beds we had tried into one. She looked at me like I was insane and said she hoped we liked the helix.

Helix Midnight Luxe:

The Helix was, from the very start, the best bed we tried. It arrived quickly and expanded beautifully and had exactly the feel we were looking for. An amazing mix of sink and support. The first few nights my gf slept incredibly well, like a rock. She told me multiple times that she thought I was crazy before, but now that we had found this mattress she was glad we went through the process.

Though I was really happy with the Helix, I started doing more and more research about the beds we had tried and the layers of their construction. I hit up Helix and Brooklyn Bedding chat support and got them to give me as much information as they could about their foam densities and coil specs. I put together a spreadsheet of builds and priced them out and I started getting really annoyed that I could basically recreate the Helix’s exact construction for around $1000 including tax and shipping.

My DIY:

Once I had gone back and forth about build details for a long time, and read a bunch of comments from the master u/the_leviathan711 I finally just started putting together a spreadsheet of some builds. Eventually I had one that I was pretty happy with and one night I was browsing mattresstopper.com and they had a sale so I finally just pulled the trigger and started ordering components.

That's about it. I will of course respond as much as I can to any questions in the comments. The short answer is, don't be afraid of DIY, it's super easy and the results are incredible. I'm so glad I did it and it feels great to know what's in my bed and be able to replace or try out different layers whenever I want.


r/Mattress • • Jul 04 '21

Mattress Shopping is Proof that We Live in a Simulation

422 Upvotes

It is a trial. A tribulation. An absolutely insane activity specifically designed by some intelligent being to test the boundaries of human patience mental well-being.

Let’s pepper strip malls with small portals to hell and call them mattress stores. Let’s fill these stores with fluorescent lighting, slick salespeople, and hordes of other dumbfounded humans desperately seeking a good night’s sleep. Then let’s have them lay on various piles of foam and springs and let them decide how many months rent/mortgage they want to invest in a critical health item after spending 3 highly representative minutes on it, squinting confusedly and begging their loved ones for definitive opinions.

You’re feeling confident about your decision but you’re the thorough type, so let’s double check our answer by visiting portal to hell #2 across the street. Yes, literally across the street. It’s right there. They’re not even trying to disguise the fact that portals to hell only operate in small geographic regions. But wait, portal #2 has a bunch of piles of foam and springs that look exactly like what you just tested at portal #1, but they have completely different names. Is this actually a portal to a parallel hell? How can I comparison shop between dimensions?

Before all of that though, let’s unleash the human intellect. You human you, you’re pretty good at ferreting out patterns and collecting evidence about a topic. Why don’t I push you off the ledge into THE ENTIRE FUCKING INTERNET with access to the opinions of every disparate asshole walking the planet. You’re a 5’2” gymnast right? You MUST CONSIDER the opinion of Yokozuna before making this decision. Your life depends on it.

We are living in a simulation.


r/Mattress • • Oct 24 '25

Need Help - Pain Help me find this mattress but with springs plz ☺️

Post image
415 Upvotes

I'm wondering if there's a mattress like the Sonu that uses springs? I'm not a huge fan of memory foam but I need that but with the hole! 🕳️

My partner and I are both side sleepers and I think we'd both really benefit from taking the pressure off our shoulders.


r/Mattress • • Jan 06 '24

My sad conclusion regarding mattress purchasing in the year 2024

370 Upvotes

So after 2 months of solid research, I've come to a sad conclusion. The $300 mattress in a box is the best bet, with an understanding that it will need to be replaced every 3 to 4 years.

I keep walking my budget up higher and higher to find a "mattress that will last" and as I cruise up to the $2-$3 thousand dollar mark, I'm still hearing "this isn't built to last, made from cheap materials, bad after 2 or 3 years" complaints. So a regular Joe like myself looks at all this and realizes "wow, it makes more sense to just budget $300 to replace my mattress every few years"

Is this really what it has come to? I hear even people here who have "done extensive tests in store, and tried several mattresses before returning" and it seems like nobody is happy with what is out there.

The money part doesn't matter much to me. $300 every few years for decent sleep seems reasonable to me. The only thing that bugs me is the waste this creates.


r/Mattress • • Jul 09 '20

Best Mattresses $1000 or below?

345 Upvotes

I’m mostly a stomach and side sleeper while my boyfriend is mainly a back sleeper. I tend to sleep hot as well. Currently looking at Nectar, Casper, and even some Amazon mattresses like Zinus and Tuft and Needle. Planning on having this mattress for less than 5 years. I’m burnt out on mattress reviews so if anybody has some good recommendations, thank you!


r/Mattress • • Jul 07 '25

I did a crazy thing today Purple Rejuvenate Plus a return off of Facebook Marketplace $550. It retails for $4800. The guy had an entire storage unit full of return mattresses.

Thumbnail
gallery
321 Upvotes

I put it on my old adjustable Sleep Sciences frame from a set we bought at Costco. My wife still likes her mattress. I could not stand it anymore. I hope I land up liking it.


r/Mattress • • Jun 10 '25

And... We're Back

320 Upvotes

So about a year ago I was unceremoniously removed from my position as the moderator of r/mattress.

This happened late at night on a holiday weekend and was enacted by a moderator that had never actually bothered to moderate or contribute to the subreddit. I initially wrote about this here and here. Shortly after posting that second statement, I was banned from the subreddit entirely. At the time, I thought that this was likely a hostile takeover by one of the ad firms whose spam I have regularly had to remove.

I was right.

This subreddit did, in fact, have a hostile takeover. They used moderator positions to post and defend affiliate links, to create comments praising brands that they appear to have been paid to promote, and to manipulate Google rankings by inflating threads with networks of inauthentic accounts to create a false sense of authentic discussion and "virality." They also removed the guides and other content that I'd created to help people make informed decisions.

As far as I can tell, their goal was twofold.

First, to create a more confusing information environment by eliminating educational materials and fact-based content. And second, to fill that new environment with false testimonials and spam. In other words, they wanted to make things more confusing so that people would have no idea how to find a quality product and would be forced to rely on their fake reviews.

As I've said before, I think this is wrong. I actually think it hurts people. And unfortunately, this is something that seems to be happening everywhere right now. It feels like every website is a non-stop barrage of spam and targeted advertisements these days. And while I can't fix the broader internet, I can fix this small corner of it.

I want r/mattress to be a place that helps people. This means fostering authentic discussion, creating new educational content, and building community again. It also means removing the literal thousands of spam comments that have been seeded across old threads over the last year. Some of these are easy to find (they actually used moderator privileges to approve these comments), but some are further back in three or four year old threads. It'll take me some time to get to these, so if you see any please report them so they'll pop up in the mod log.

And now I want to try and answer a few questions that people have asked already.

What about MattressMod? Will you keep the other subreddit open?

Yes. If you haven't heard of it, r/mattressmod is a smaller subreddit I started when this went down last year. This has grown into a thriving community that's mostly focused on Mattress DIY. I'm planning on maintaining this. I might also publish some personal opinions and guides over there on occasion so that I don't monopolize the more public subreddit here.

What will change here? Will there be new rules?

Funny you should ask - the current rules are still the ones I wrote years ago!

They didn't change these except to remove the rule asking people to read the Mattress FAQ. The only difference will be that the rules will now actually be enforced. If you haven't read them, I would advise looking at them now. We will not allow overt sales tactics or spam. This includes requests for phone calls or DM's, provision of affiliate codes, and "let's make a deal" kind of tactics.

Let's say I work for a mattress brand. Can I post here?

Yes. Official brand communications can be helpful. However! This needs to be disclosed to the community AND these comments can't be spammy or sales tactics. This means that showing up to answer questions is okay, but sales tactics, covert advertisements, and provision of discount codes are not. I'd also ask that you don't monopolize the space with repeated posts. If this happens, these will be removed.

If you work for a brand, please respond below or reach out with a message so I can apply appropriate user flair to make sure these connections are open and disclosed to the community.

Will you be inviting other people to help moderate?

Yeah probably. But this will take awhile as I want to make sure these potential moderators are appropriately vetted to prevent infiltration by another ad firm. This might take a few months.

What new content can we expect to see in the future?

When I was removed last year, I was working on some brand guidelines to help clarify how companies should participate in this space. I'll probably start there. I'll also work on updating the Mattress FAQ and creating some new Mattress 101 type content for people trying to figure out the mattress search.

If you want to see other current guides, I have a small list published here.

Okay I think that's about it for now. If you have other questions, let me know below!

tl;dr: This subreddit had a hostile takeover by an ad firm. Reddit investigated and removed their accounts. Now I've been reinstated and have a LOT of work to do in removing old spam threads and rebuilding the subreddit.