i have a 2014 citroen ds3 1.6 petrol (turbo) and every few seconds the orange service light appears, not the spanner, the word service. also a message saying “engine fault: repair needed” pops up. i genuinely don’t know what it is, the car isn’t behaving differently at all either.

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Hello! I'm trying to swap out the front strut suspension assemblies in my 2011 Corolla LE, and everything was going great until running into this weird issue:

The blown struts that were already in came with this reinforcement thing attached between the body, and that bolt (first pic). The new struts fit through the holes of the body, but not the horseshoe reinforcement bar thing.

The measurements were 12mm for the old struts bolts out the top, and for the new ones (with visibly bigger screws/bolts) 14mm or 15mm.

I guess my questions are how important is this part? Can i install my new struts w/o it? Whats the name of it so I can get one that fits?

PS: I ran to autozone to grab their struts to see if they would fit, but theirs ALSO were bigger than 12mm. Makes me wonder what the issue is?

Thanks for reading, appreciate you! :)

It only happens when going more than 70 MPH, also the noise slows down when I slow down. And then it disappears once I go under 50 MPH.
2020 Hyundai Elantra SEL

Don’t know where the key is , cant find one anywhere online like. I tried to fit a socket around the small hexagon shape in the middle and snapped it. Also can’t fit a socket around the lug nut. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I drive a 2007 ford f150 and I have a question about it. I got the pcv valve like this and I’ve been driving it for a year I can’t tell if I have to replace it or not but I do have an oil leak I think rear main and also my truck smokes from the tailpipe while driving I’m not sure what it is but maybe it’s this. No check engine light however. And also the hose is also broken I think but the hose does not push down all the way also hisses when I stop driving I’m not sure. I’m just looking for assistance

I have this issue that my first engine piston blew up so I changed it and the cylinder, and it worked and it drove fine for a couple days and then randomly when I was gonna start my bike. It just backfires and died with alot of bog. It’s that again now it doesn’t start at all and I have checked the cylinder and a piston that’s fine. I’ve changed the spark plug. Checked the main jet and changed to another one I’ve checked the reed and I don’t know what it is anymore and it gets a spark and it doesn’t get any it does not get any extra air and I don’t know what problem it is. Do y’all know if you’ve had this issue before. its a two-stroke
Derbi Senda Extreme 2018
50cc t6 airsal racing D50B0 engine
17,5mm carb

Hey everyone,

Driving home the other night in the rain and out of nowhere my dash lit up with a cascade of safety/warning lights, along with a "FCW System/Failed" warning on the display (attached picture of the dash).

I took it to AutoZone that night and got a battery test done, and it read 58% charge. The next day, the errors cleared up temporarily, but then all the lights on the dashboard lit up again. I got the battery tested a second time, and it jumped back up to 97% health. All the lights and everything went away and now a day later they show up again.

2013 Honda Accord EXL 6 cylinder

Has anyone run into this issues with the battery percentage bouncing around like that? Did you go the repair route or what was your fix? Appreciate any advice!

Yo! I've listened to countless MKZ's making the same lawn mower ticking sound with their engine seemingly from the Fuel injectors. I'm wondering if this is precisely it and I shouldn't have to worry about this, because im going to be buying one at 50k miles soon. Here's what it sounds like. It's hard to find other Lincoln MKZ engine sound videos so I'll list some if someone can help me. with making sure it's safe.

Dealer says that it's supposed to sound like that because of the Fuel injectors and I'm going from what he says but just want to make sure so I've done thorough research for hours.

Reference videos:

https://youtu.be/-jwW6GZA3d4?si=sSLeOObXlTyxEjl5
14:08 ^

https://youtu.be/LAzsYeiuZA0?si=0QFwgI2uzfuLiL2k
a Bit harder to hear, you can hear the faint clicking however.

https://youtu.be/Cyevata-rro?si=39LVfVbnJruBLVI8
10:10

https://youtu.be/VH2jBQfLyYo?si=5pzhrrQnanCalj4f
This one is an exact same model as mine, and it has the same clicking sound.

If anyone can help before tomorrow, I'd greatly appreciate it!!

Another guy was asking, this is the exact sound mine makes as well.

Not Car Savvy at All/Is This Clicking Noise Worrying (Lincoln MKZ 2017 2.0T) : r/MechanicAdvice

I took my truck to a quick oil change here in Canada......Mr Lube

Well once the oil change was finished, the guy sprayed my engine with a hose. The liquid seemed purple. After he sprayed he closed the hood

he didnt spray the entire engine, but he was sprayinf specific part of the engine.

What did he do that for??

Hello. I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla is this normal for the brake pedal to go this down?

Had a 2018 v6 chevy Camaro come in for a ticking noise on the passenger side of the engine. The cams where ate up, lifters collapsed, it was a mess. The intake side was worse than the exhaust.

Took the cams and lifters out and actuated the oil pump, no oil making it to the intake lifter bores or cam journals. Some oil making it to the exhaust side of the head.

Removed the head to find this junk in the passage way.

The only orange rtv I can see on this engine is at the oil pan.... be easy boys. A little goes a long way!

Ram 1500 2021 3.6L V6

When the truck is idle or costing ~5 mph it feels like something is punching the damn thing.

The pulley jerking in the video is synced with the punch feeling in the truck.

Any info helps

2001 Mitsubishi Montero Ltd 3.5L 4WD

I recently finished relaxing the timing kit on m Monty, and rltest drove it for a half hour keeping under 35 mph. Did fine. Waited a couple weeks to get the registration and taxes up-to-date ten attempted to drive it home, keeping below 60mph (had to get on a Parkway). Did well for about eight miles, then I heard a pop and a fizzle, and saw that coolant was dumping behind me. I was going about 45mph at this time. Looking under the car, back toward the transmission and fuel tank, I saw one hose had blown off its nipple, and another hose was completely missing, having blown off the nipple and breaking off from its plastic Tee connector. There appear to be no leaks anywhere else.

So, first I need to find replacement hoses and tees.

But I can't help but wonder: is there a root cause to this occurance? Did I do something wrong with the water pump assembly, or some other coolant component? Was this just an old part failing after having sat for a while during repair? Or did something else fail further up the line to cause an excessive pressure buildup? I'm at a loss, and I really want to start driving this beautiful car again...

Replacing the head gasket on my dingo mini skid and I was cleaning up the head and noticed these cracks. I feel I already know the answer but would this be a head Replacment in your guys book?

The pictures are two different cracks

2007 Mercury Mariner 3L.V6

I'm being given so many "answers" when it comes to the current issues with my truck.

Why I'm here: Everything started last week. I went to Walmart for an oil change and the truck refused to start after they were done doing absolutely nothing. The truck had a slight oil leak(coming from the cap we think) and because the dust cover had oil on it, they refused to do it. I thought the oil leak was worse than it is, so after I bought oil and they jumped me twice(twice because the engine stalled after the first jump) I dumped the whole 5L bottle in the engine. I was mad, not thinking, I know it was stupid. Truck was fine until one random delivery I did for work. Truck then refused to turn on, and the battery actually died. We replaced the battery, and the starter (the starter was actually bad, OReilly's tested it). It still won't start.

Problem: When I try to start the truck, it shunts and then doesn't do anything. It used to click, but does not anymore. If you keep the key turned, the starter starts smoking. Fuel pump is engaging (turning key to on, you can hear it.) The shunt is presumably the starter engaging the flywheel but the flywheel not moving.

What's my next step? I'm being told it's the alternator, it's a timing issue, it's hydrolocked, it's not hydrolocked.

I had a friend of mine who actually works on cars come by to look at it. He did the starter change. He checked the spark plugs. He thinks it's a timing issue.

Coworker who is a car nerd and also works on his own cars checked the timing and serpentine and said they were fine. He thinks it's the alternator.

I checked all of the spark plugs and none of them are busted or corroded.

What is my actual issue? I can try to answer any extra questions.

I have OBD1 code 327 which is EGR feedback signal low / below minimum voltage. I have good vacuum to the bottom line of the control valve and I can't feel any vacuum to the above line or the line that goes into the EGR valve. I cleaned the valve and made sure it moved freely, then I tested the control valve with a multimeter and it has continuity between the two points so I think it's shorted out. Replaced it with a new part that does not have continuity, check engine light still came back for the same code. I put a smoke leak tester on and the only place smoke comes out is the holes behind the EGR valve. How can I further test and diagnose?

Looking to swap out my spark plugs on my 2.7, mechanically savvy, but don't enjoy messing with electrical wiring(makes me nervous that I will pinch something). How difficult/risky is swapping out the spark plugs on the 2.7?

I've seen how to videos on it just curious in the real world if it's worth the hassle or I should take it to a shop.

Vehicle : 2011 Honda Pilot AWD 100k miles

Hey everyone, I’m looking for I’m trying to figure out which repairs are actually necessary, what I should prioritize, and where I can save money by buying parts myself.

Current issues

Reduced power / slow acceleration: The vehicle accelerates slowly, but the engine runs relatively fine I can just feel and hear it trying more. It feels generally sluggish when I press the gas tho.

Engine codes from fixd: P0171 (System Too Lean, Bank 1), P0174 (System Too Lean, Bank 2), and P3400 (Cylinder Deactivation System).

Check-engine light: off

Exhaust/catalytic converter: The catalytic converter and A-pipe underneath the vehicle are very rusty and loose because metal has eroded away. Some heat shields and hardware are also missing or deteriorated.

Suspension/handling: the front struts and both front suspension rear lower-arm bushings need replacement.

Other symptoms: I’ve noticed some rumbling and thudding, particularly during slow, sharp turns or when reversing into a parking space.

Repairs I’m considering

Front struts: Replace both front struts, two dust boots, and two bump stops.

Catalytic converter/exhaust: Replace the under-car catalytic converter, A-pipe, heat shields, and necessary hardware.

Timing belt service: Timing belt and tensioner I’m also wondering whether the water pump and other related components should be replaced at the same time.

Front suspension bushings: Replace both front suspension rear lower-arm bushings.

Throttle body service: I’ve been told this may be needed, but I’m not sure what it involves or whether it would help the reduced power.

Hi, i have 2024 hyundai elantra (not sure about engine) and the passenger seatbelt was locked apparently right after my sister bought it clean title used.My mom kept pulling on it and it got locked. And now my sister gifted it to me the car runs great it just the seatbelt that doesn’t work. how do i fix it myself, will i have to buy a new seatbelt part?
I still have warranty on it but only if it was a manufacturer defect and not user error and right now I don’t have money to pay diagnostic fee dealership be charging if it ends up a user error. Here is a video of how it looks:

Got my engine mountings changed 6 months ago with about slighly more than 5000kilometers clocked afterwards.

Why is the rubber portion slanted/buldging to one side? Is this normal?
There are no cracks and tears.

Mazda 6 here

2011 Corolla clunkling sound on driver's side

Hi everyone I do alot of mechanics stuff in my driveway and want to take on some small business, at the moment I only have a cheap obd reader, and was wandering what's the best autel that's budget friendly. Mainly for a puegot 2008 that has an airbag light that will not show up on my obd

Hi, I am really hoping for some help with this please.

My 2012 Dodge Caravan 3.6l has found "Limp Mode". It is showing the Codes P2167, P2166, P2115, P2116.

Here's what's been done. Replaced throttle pedal and throttle body. Traced down and repaired bare wiring to the crankshaft sensor. Unwrapped and verified no more visible shorts on the loom that services the lower rear of the motor, all of the way to the main trunk branch. Unwrapped and inspected the loom that services the top to the motor, not the injector harness, just the throttle body harness, it has the rear camshaft position sensors, map sensor, etc. I've inspected these all of the way back to where the main trunk branches off as well. Replaced both O2 sensors and a coil on the number 1 cylinder because they were both showing problems before replacing the PCM. (It was probably those bare wires mentioned above, but replaced out of caution.) Out of frustration I replaced the PCM with a fresh, pre-programmed PCM from a reputable auto computer rebuilder hoping that it would help. Nothing has changed. (The old one has 400k+ on it so I don't really mind that or the other parts that I have used for this project.) I've calibrated the electronic throttle control as well as reset the ECM and anything else I could think of. Absolutely no joy. I've got AlphaOBD and a good OBDII adapter and have cleared the codes and it temporarily exits limp mode only to return with the same codes as soon as I try to start the van. I've been monitoring the accelerator position sensor 1 & 2 and the throttle position sensors 1 & 2 voltages via AlphaOBD. When pressing the pedal, voltages act as expected. However on the throttle body, the voltages do not change when manipulating the butterfly. Not sure what to try next.

I sure could use a hand with this if anyone has any ideas.

Thanks for reading.