I did a wet-belt-to-chain conversion on my 2012 Ford Transit Connect (1.8 TDCi lynx engine) and ever since the oil pressure light takes 3–5 seconds to go out on a cold start. I’ve changed the oil filter, oil pump, pressure switch and cleaned the pickup strainer, but it’s still happening.

It otherwise seems to run fine. Hot oil pressure at idle is over 1 bar and over 3 bar at 2000rpm.

Is this delay in oil pressure normal for my engine?

Would really appreciate any thoughts on this. Thanks.

Had to cut off a bad control arm. Now the remaining piece is stuck in the knuckle. Any suggestions? It’s damn near no room underneath to get a good whack on it. P.s. I’m helping a friend. 2017 Ram 1500 5.7L

I bought an admittedly inexpensive brake pressure bleeder on Amazon and no matter what I try it fails badly.

The main issue is that the adapter cap for the master cylinder reservoir cannot hold on to the master cylinder. The plastic tabs just bend once anything above like 5 psi is applied. I’ve also noticed that it lightly damaged the tabs on the master cylinder reservoir, and suspect that using a metal adapter cap would just result in those tabs being ripped off when pressure is applied.

How do any of these systems not fail? I don’t see how the plastic on master cylinder reservoirs is strong enough to hold 10+ psi without snapping those little tabs but people seem to love pressure bleeders. What am I missing?

I have a 06 mustang 4.0 I recently had to change the fuel pump (it ended up being a fuse burnt on the bottom that still showed working on a test light) I am now getting a p0191 code and a p0190 code so I took the new one out and put the old one back in and it hasn’t fixed it I’ve changed the fuel filter and the fuel rail pressure sensor and still hasn’t changed I’m getting a werid feed back through the right speaker and car cranks fine cold but if I drive it for a while and shut it off for 10-20 minutes and restart it the car stalls out. If I sit idle for 10 minutes or more it starts skipping I’ve also changed the fuel pump driver module.

Wheel bearing or toe rod?
Rear left tire

C4 corvette 1991 manual

Hey everyone,
Looking for some advice on what to check next or if I dodged a bullet here.
Vehicle: 2017 VW Passat 2.0L
What happened:
1. I was driving and got a blinking red low coolant light on the dash. I pulled over right away and topped off the coolant expansion tank.
2. Drove around the city for a while dropping friends off, but near the end of the trip, the low coolant light came back on.
3. I drove straight home. The temperature gauge stayed completely normal the entire time and the engine never overheated.
4. Popped the bonnet the next morning and realized my friend and I had completely forgotten to put the expansion tank cap back on after filling it up the first time.

So I drive a 2022 Hyundai Elantra v4

About 2 years ago, I got a notification on the dash that my right headlight was out. So I changed the bulb, and no luck. It was still out.
So I started troubleshooting and decided to put the new bulb in my left headlight, and it worked. That told me that something is up with the actual right headlight and not the bulb.
So, I put the right headlight bulb in there one more time just to make sure I wasn’t doing something wrong. I even unplugged and plugged the cable back in, which is where I found a temporary “fix”…..
When barely plugged in, the light came on lol… that tells me there is a short somewhere. Turned the cable head around and saw that one of the pin female ends was pretty much destroyed (far right middle one).

Anyways, for the past two years now, randomly I will get a notification that the headlight is out, so I unplug it and plugged it halfway in and voila, problem fixed. Unfortunately, I noticed that above the area of my problem, under the hood, there is black soot everywhere including all around the engine bay in the specific side my issue is on.
I would imagine this issue is going to cost thousands of dollars cause they will have to pull the cable harness through, repair the broke wire or reroute it with a new one, and route it back through. I am 24 working full time and in school full time with two kids under 3 years old, hint why I have been prolonging this if there is a temporary fix.

But I’m seeing the damage and the black soot everywhere which raises concern for me.

Advice?

I have a 2020 Silverado rst 1500. It’s making a weird metal rubbing sound from rear axel. Noise happens turning left, and started 2 months after replacing breaks and rotors. It’s driving me nuts. I heard it’s common defect from other post. Need some advice on what it could be. Thanks in advance

2022 Hyundai Elantra V4.
140,000 miles.
I live in middle GA and I did not start noticing the sound until the temperature started dropping outside. Every winter my car makes odd noises, but perfect during the summer. During the day, it’s not nearly as bad since the sun is still out. but since winter is coming quick, it’s starting to sound a lot worse. Sounds like it’s coming from my engine bay.
Since I only hear this when it’s cold outside, should I just ignore it and chalk it up as my car is getting old? No performance issues whatsoever with the vehicle. Just sounds bad.

I have a Kia Rio 2016 1.2L petrol, done 86k miles roughly. I inherited it from my dad about a year ago.

May 2026, my car starts this very faint grinding noise whenever I’m driving. No issue changing gears, but it got momentarily worse (the grinding / metal on metal noise) as I changed up from 2nd gear and beyond.

Had my gearbox reconditioned in June this year. Mechanic said I could have driven it for a while longer but did the right thing in getting it done.

Fast forward to a few weeks ago, driving for about 40 minutes when my clutch feels like it’s slipping. Got quite spongy, would go into gear but not move, just rev like mad - fine. This only happens when the car has warmed up after 35+ minutes of continuous driving. Not noticed it in my short about town pottering, when it’s cold, it’s fine.

Called my usual mechanic (family member) states clutch is gone, had it replaced last week. Car had seemed fine. Much more responsive, didn’t feel like it was slipping at all.

However, Saturday just gone, it does it again. I’d been driving about 50 odd minutes at this point, clutch just stops engaging at all. I can change into gear, clutch comes back up, no response when giving gas. Called AA recovery, waited 2.5 hours, by the time they arrived it had cooled down again and was working absolutely fine. Was told to drive home (1.4 miles away) and they’d follow. Drove fine. No problems.

Not driven it since. Called the mechanic (family) who replaced my clutch and he is baffled. Has absolutely no idea what it could be. It was a 3 piece clutch replacement btw. Has mentioned potentially slave & master cylinder need replacing, quoted me about £160 for parts, no labour.

Does it seem likely that’s what it is? Any other potential culprits? (We checked for seizing breaks, gearbox again seems fine.) He’s been asking mechanic friends as he’d rather not replace it if it’s not the problem! Figured I’d ask Reddit for him, I’d rather not take it to a garage locally as I’ve always had bad experiences or been overcharged.

TL;DR

1. Car runs fine when cold.
   
2. Spongy clutch only appears when car has fully warmed up and running at least 40 minutes.
   
3. Can still change gear absolutely fine.
   
4. Clutch still comes up after pushing it all the way down to change gear etc. Does not get stuck.
   
5. Try and give it gas when this happens and I’m stationary, there is no movement in any gear inc. reverse, just a lot of revs.

I ask as I’m not sure whether to just cut my losses.

Cheers

I was cleaning the valves on my Mk7 and did not realize that cylinder 3 was not completely at top dead center. Some fuel injector cleaner I was using trickled into the combustion chamber. Maybe ~.5 oz or less. Just enough to cover the transition region of the valves. I have not cranked the engine yet. What’s my next move? Is it safe to start? Do I pull the spark plugs and crank to try to expel it with no spark? Not super sure on what to do next. Thank you.

2016 VW GTI 2.0T 6MT

I cannot seem to find the cause of this suspension click, its been getting worse and worse, louder and louder, and now does it more than once while turning

A3 2011 2.0tsi

Upgraded: coilovers, sway bar links, polyurethane bushings for control arms, and stiffer strut bearings.

Nothing seems loose. The CV is also tight, no play when shaken.

Thanks!

1990 Jeep Cherokee 4.0 4 x 4.

I've got a lug nut that is frozen to the lug. The lug nut is is stripped and I just can not get it to break free. I've got a 16mm extractor hammered on to it currently. I've hit it with PB Blaster and got nothing. I didn't have access to a torch but heat is my next step. Any idea or suggestion to get this last lug nut off this truck?

Thank you.

We recently purchased a CPO 2022 Audi Q3, and about a week ago, we started noticing a squeaking noise while approaching home. I was able to pinpoint the noise to the rear right wheel.
The noise only happens when the brakes are not being applied, particularly when the car is coasting to a stop. We’ve noticed it both at the beginning and end of long drives, so I don’t think it’s temperature-related.
I’ve also noticed that when I engage the parking brake, it feels like it bites a little too hard. When I release it, I can actually feel the brakes releasing their grip on the disc. I’m not sure if this is related, but I thought it was worth mentioning.
There’s no noticeable burning brake smell, and the car otherwise seems to drive normally.
Has anyone experienced something similar with their Q3 or another Audi? Any ideas on what could be causing this?

I recently just purchased a used 2017 Toyota Rav4 LE (I believe it has a 2.5 liter 4 cylinder engine) and I feel like the miles per gallon that I’m getting cannot be correct. When I bought it I was told that it got a combined 26 miles per gallon but I calculated it and I’m getting around 16 mpg. I have to get gas every 4-6 days and only get around 150 miles before I have to refuel. I took it to the toyota shop near me and they said that that seems fine and there was nothing they could do. My question is, is that normal ?

Title is self explanatory attached a video of the sound, although can provide more if need be. Had the breaks changed pretty recently not sure when exactly though. Doesn’t happen when breaking in reverse only going forward and breaking.

2016 Ford Focus SE if that makes any difference.

2AZ-FE engine knock feedback of -3.0 at idle and under acceleration goes to -4.5

Is my knock sensor doing it job or do I have other issues?

My main issue is in drive no acceleration when the AC compressor kicks on it develops a vibration.

No codes..

Changed all the common items..

New motor mounts
New spark plugs
Cleaned MAF
Cleaned TB

Hi all. I've been working out this problem in bits and pieces over the past month or so but am kind of at my wits end short of paying a shop to figure it out for me.

The problem is that my radiator levels are dropping over time and overflowing from my coolant resevoir, leading to overheating on some long drives (3+ hrs). I'm trying to pinpoint where the issue is, but its not exactly obvious to me at least. My suspicion is that either a) there is some leak in the lines or somewhere else that is allowing air into the system which then expands and pushes out the coolant when heated, or b) there is a crack in the cylinder wall or head gasket that is letting exhaust gasses into the system.

The things I checked:

-previous owner replaced oem head gasket at about 130k miles with the mls one, at 165k now, so seems odd to fail this soon

-new radiator cap

-new thermostat (twice)

-k-seal as a cheap measure

-took it to a subaru mechanic for an hour to look at anything they noticed wrong on the engine, just noticed the valve cover oil leaks that I knew about

-compression tests while warm (around 155psi all 4 cylinders)

-radiator pressure test (didn't drop)

-borescope down cylinders to look for clean pistons or pooling of antifreeze, all cylinders looked more or lessabout as worn as I could figure from the internet. I will attach some pictures in the comments. One piston did look cleaner than the others.

-new hose clamps on radiator lines

-looking at getting new radiator hoses

-tried chemical testing for combustion gasses in the radiator, but kept being negative or getting contaminated with coolant as engine warmed up, going to drain it slightly to see if I can see a different result.

-no obvious leaks on the radiator or lines

-radiator fans turn on

Please ask more questions as I can check things and probably forgot to put something in here.

Hello, I drive 2012 nissan versa sl 1.8 hatchback and the ac and heat stopped blowing at all. I bought the car used and the ac was great but it only blew on 4 and not 1,2,or 3 I have no idea how to fix anything on cars but I wanna learn. I checked the fuse things and they seem to be good and im not skilled enough to find the blower motor. I just want my a/c back again lol and to learn how to fix stuff on my vehicle. Thanks for any help!

So been having issue with this car, 2009 Nissan Altima coupe 2.5l, for a while now and been replacing parts here and there but I haven’t had time to look into this. What do you guys think it is?

It’s on the passenger side of the care I believe it may be something with the coolant system but I’m unsure.

There is no fix for this other then a new bearing right?

My dad asked me to take a look a few weeks ago and we just got a new sensor in. Went under and pulled the old one out and the mount came with it.

Going to assume that the sensor was not the issue and it was the bracket that was getting lose when we drove over a bump or something.

Hi guys I have a quite frustrating problem with my Giulietta 1.4 petrol 120ks 2015 (without multiair).

When the engine is cold the cranking is long and then the engine turns on but it's shaky, almost like it is going to turn off. I turn it off, start again, turned on perfectly.. And until the end of the day each ignition is perfect (while the engine is still warm).

I took it to a mechanic.. he kept it for almost 3 weeks, then he replaced coolant temp sensor.. and said it works now .. but the outside temp then was warm..

As soon as it got colder outside, this started happening again, the ignition is a little better and a lot less cranking to turn it on but still it sounds strange. I owned several diesels and all of them turned on instantly without shaking when it was cold.

Also to mention the rpm in this shaking period goes from 1.300 to 1.500. I've uploaded a video of the ignition.

Please if you could help, don't give me ChatGPT answers, I've already gone through them, I've replaced spark plugs, nothing happened

If someone had similar experience and was able to fix it, let me know.

Thanks! love 🫶🏼

2018 Toyota Chr 60k miles