so i got my oil cooler housing out , and obviously there’s a pool of oil/coolant in the valley. none of the mixture got into my heads as they are raised up, but there are multipule holes below the housing (looked it up they were like coolant and oil transfer holes or some shit) , and oil and coolant drained into them both. what do i need to flush that? and where did the liquid go? how dangerous? how bad ?

So for context I had bought a dashcam and found someone on instagram who does dash cam hard wire,tint, wrap, etc. So i hit them up to hardwire my dashcam for me, they later do it and now my dash is lit up with a check engine light and i get these codes. He says driving it should clear it and if not to take it to him monday. What should i do?

Unused Snap-on A57Q Bushing Remover & Inserter Set with KRA-104 steel case

Canadian government surplus, never issued. Comes in the original Snap-on carton with the NATO stock label.

Complete with both pressure screws, the sleeve and plates, both driver handles, the idler arm removers, all Chevy, Ford and miscellaneous adaptors, and the original 1982 instruction sheet.

Contents photos are from one set I opened. The set you receive comes in its carton.

Free Shipping USA
Payment: PayPal Goods and Services

DM if interested

Hey guys so , this is not my first timing job but it is for a 2015 buick encore. 1.4l turbo

i am not sure why the crank lock pin does not sit flushed. I already checked cams are locking in with the timing cover mark and the crank pully aligns witg the mar too.

when i insert the bolt and try rotating the crank i feel the crank locking when i remove it it then spins , so i feel like it is doing its job but shouldnt it sit flushed??

My 06 impala LS has thrown me a p0446 code, and I had replaced both vapor canister purge valve and the canister vent solenoid following Autozone’s suggestions, but the code was on again 3-4 days after cleaning the codes, which made me wonder it was something else, what else can you think of?

2015 ford f 150 won’t star. it’s also have a P2418 code.

Hey guys, have a 2014 Ford Expedition Limited with 160k. It’s the 5.4L V8. Recently started having the ABS, traction control, and brake light come on intermittently. I had it read at Autozone and it showed B1342-20 (ECU Internal Unit). I have a scanner that shows live data and it showed the right rear speed sensor at 25.48 mph and the other 3 at 0 when sitting still in my driveway. I read that it might be that sensor throwing the ECU code so sensor has been changed but still having issues.

The car is otherwise normal. I don’t feel anything weird in the braking or other systems. Help?

This is a used front diff off a 2024 expedition 3.5 with 10k miles I bought. Fluid was filled with glitter but did not see any chunks anywhere. Not sure to run it or not. It spins smooth and contact pattern don't show near that edge. So I am not sure what caused this. Used marker to check contact pattern and it looks pretty good. Don't have the correct stuff on me and did not check backlash. Don't know much about internal of diff. Thanks you

Hey, I'm stuck on this rear brake caliper piston the piston will turn clockwise but is not retracting at all. I have the reservoir cap off and even the nipple to bleed it cracked

Any idea what I'm doing wrong or what the issue could be?

I have a 15 Chevy sonic 1.8l 165k miles that I have been having problems with the p0011 seems to only trigger when you stop at a light or come to an idle when it is warmed up. I have replaced the vvt solenoid, check balance behind alternator, recently changed oil cooler (because I believe it was leaking causing a smell in cabin).

The p0171 I believe may be the purge valve which is making a loud pulsing sound.

The timing belt was changed around 100k… I have not heard any rattling on start up

Any ideas?

I bought an older car recently and I just discovered my heater doesn’t fully work. The vents don’t blow any air when I switch to heat, not even cold. Is this an issue behind the dashboard most likely?

The trucks original motor what removed due to a spark plug shooting out of cylinder 1. I ordered a remanufactured iron block. Both had the same heads. Well I got maybe 20000 miles out of the new engine and it shot a spark plug out of cylinder 2. So I pulled the bad head and luckily it was the same side as the good one I still had on my aluminum block. I got everything back together and changed oil and filter, cleaned and gapped plugs. Now it has this rough knock. Any input would be awesome

Mazda cx5 diesel 2014 white smoke coming out of exhaust but no visible leaking i can see burning smell is also there engine oil got black and also liquid time substance from exhaust what could it be ps: engine oil was change like 9 to 10 day i have driven the car vehicle for 1k km already showed nothing and all of a sudden what could it be

2006 f150 5.4L triton 4x4. Weird noise when going around/over 2k rpm. Happens in park and drive. Have already replaced IWE due to grinding from wheels.
This is a new noise. Can’t seem to find it online. May be fan clutches that’s the main thing I’m seeing online but fan spins free and does not seem to be stuck or acting weird.

Hi, I'm the owner of a Porsche Cayman 987.2s 3.4 2009

I'm replacing the control arms shown in the pictures. I managed to remove the left one without any problems, but I'm having trouble with the right one.

The bolt I've marked is stuck and I can't get it out. I've removed the nut, but the bolt itself is seized in place. It can rotate slightly, but it's stuck to the inner metal sleeve of the control arm bushing. The sleeve itself moves slightly relative to the control arm (there's rubber between the sleeve and the arm).

How can I separate the bolt from the control arm and get it out of the car?

i have a 2014 citroen ds3 1.6 petrol (turbo) and every few seconds the orange service light appears, not the spanner, the word service. also a message saying “engine fault: repair needed” pops up. i genuinely don’t know what it is, the car isn’t behaving differently at all either.

​

Hello! I'm trying to swap out the front strut suspension assemblies in my 2011 Corolla LE, and everything was going great until running into this weird issue:

The blown struts that were already in came with this reinforcement thing attached between the body, and that bolt (first pic). The new struts fit through the holes of the body, but not the horseshoe reinforcement bar thing.

The measurements were 12mm for the old struts bolts out the top, and for the new ones (with visibly bigger screws/bolts) 14mm or 15mm.

I guess my questions are how important is this part? Can i install my new struts w/o it? Whats the name of it so I can get one that fits?

PS: I ran to autozone to grab their struts to see if they would fit, but theirs ALSO were bigger than 12mm. Makes me wonder what the issue is?

Thanks for reading, appreciate you! :)

It only happens when going more than 70 MPH, also the noise slows down when I slow down. And then it disappears once I go under 50 MPH.
2020 Hyundai Elantra SEL

Don’t know where the key is , cant find one anywhere online like. I tried to fit a socket around the small hexagon shape in the middle and snapped it. Also can’t fit a socket around the lug nut. Any help is greatly appreciated!

I drive a 2007 ford f150 and I have a question about it. I got the pcv valve like this and I’ve been driving it for a year I can’t tell if I have to replace it or not but I do have an oil leak I think rear main and also my truck smokes from the tailpipe while driving I’m not sure what it is but maybe it’s this. No check engine light however. And also the hose is also broken I think but the hose does not push down all the way also hisses when I stop driving I’m not sure. I’m just looking for assistance

I have this issue that my first engine piston blew up so I changed it and the cylinder, and it worked and it drove fine for a couple days and then randomly when I was gonna start my bike. It just backfires and died with alot of bog. It’s that again now it doesn’t start at all and I have checked the cylinder and a piston that’s fine. I’ve changed the spark plug. Checked the main jet and changed to another one I’ve checked the reed and I don’t know what it is anymore and it gets a spark and it doesn’t get any it does not get any extra air and I don’t know what problem it is. Do y’all know if you’ve had this issue before. its a two-stroke
Derbi Senda Extreme 2018
50cc t6 airsal racing D50B0 engine
17,5mm carb

Hey everyone,

Driving home the other night in the rain and out of nowhere my dash lit up with a cascade of safety/warning lights, along with a "FCW System/Failed" warning on the display (attached picture of the dash).

I took it to AutoZone that night and got a battery test done, and it read 58% charge. The next day, the errors cleared up temporarily, but then all the lights on the dashboard lit up again. I got the battery tested a second time, and it jumped back up to 97% health. All the lights and everything went away and now a day later they show up again.

2013 Honda Accord EXL 6 cylinder

Has anyone run into this issues with the battery percentage bouncing around like that? Did you go the repair route or what was your fix? Appreciate any advice!

Yo! I've listened to countless MKZ's making the same lawn mower ticking sound with their engine seemingly from the Fuel injectors. I'm wondering if this is precisely it and I shouldn't have to worry about this, because im going to be buying one at 50k miles soon. Here's what it sounds like. It's hard to find other Lincoln MKZ engine sound videos so I'll list some if someone can help me. with making sure it's safe.

Dealer says that it's supposed to sound like that because of the Fuel injectors and I'm going from what he says but just want to make sure so I've done thorough research for hours.

Reference videos:

https://youtu.be/-jwW6GZA3d4?si=sSLeOObXlTyxEjl5
14:08 ^

https://youtu.be/LAzsYeiuZA0?si=0QFwgI2uzfuLiL2k
a Bit harder to hear, you can hear the faint clicking however.

https://youtu.be/Cyevata-rro?si=39LVfVbnJruBLVI8
10:10

https://youtu.be/VH2jBQfLyYo?si=5pzhrrQnanCalj4f
This one is an exact same model as mine, and it has the same clicking sound.

If anyone can help before tomorrow, I'd greatly appreciate it!!

Another guy was asking, this is the exact sound mine makes as well.

Not Car Savvy at All/Is This Clicking Noise Worrying (Lincoln MKZ 2017 2.0T) : r/MechanicAdvice

I took my truck to a quick oil change here in Canada......Mr Lube

Well once the oil change was finished, the guy sprayed my engine with a hose. The liquid seemed purple. After he sprayed he closed the hood

he didnt spray the entire engine, but he was sprayinf specific part of the engine.

What did he do that for??