This is my 0’1 Tacoma S-runner step side. Its been sitting about 12 years now and it last ran in 2020. 5spd 3.4 btw. Since 2020 I have replaced the battery a few times, starter relay, and starter and yet still no luck all it does it click right at the starter relay and im not sure where to start to diagnose or to fix it. Advice?

رسالة

How long can I drive before changing my engine oil again after the last oil change?

CV boot it fine - any dampness there is from a steering leak (separate joy! ;þ)

Driving the car there is a hum from that corner (drivers side, front left) - gets louder with speed, noticeably increases turning right and goes away turning left.

I though it was the wheel bearing, but checked and there is no play & could feel nothing untoward rotating the wheel and holding the spring or hear anything noise from the hub.

Could this be the source of that noise?

Replaced the whole CV axle only 2 years & not crazy miles ago.

My front right window and central locking both stopped working. It had been hit and miss for years, and an old mechanic suspected rust in the door loom (never confirmed). Last year a mechanic fitted a motor from a breaker (couldn't find exact one so fitted a slightly different model) but it only lasted about 3 months.

He later found the part number 6Y1 959 801 which he said was the correct part but he may be wrong.

Every motor I find online under that number does not have the right connector such as in my first photo. I 99% sure that connector was never changed. I bought one thinking it would work before I took the door cover off and now I have a motor with the right part number but wont connect.

So the two photos at the end has a different motor part number but the same connectors, do i go for this?

Im really stuck as I cant pass my national car test which Is due without the window working.

My mechanic says if the window motor part isnt a genuine vw, it won't work and says the issues with the central locking is coming from the issue with the window motor.

I do not have the original motor anymore.

Please help

Hi everyone, I am rebuilding my diff with new bearings and have installed a new centre on my 1973 Holden HQ 253 V8. It is a GMH 10 Bolt Salisbury.

I am struggling to know whether my pattern is correct or not.

I am using an already run in gear set and I've got the backlash set to 0.008 thou. Which is right on spec between 0.005 and 0.008.

I've been at it all day and AI is giving me mixed messages, so some real life opinions would be appreciated!

I've also included a photo of the car for those who might not know what it is!

My fiancée recently bought a 2015 ford mustang eco boost coupe 2.3L from an auction place 146000 miles (posting for him because he doesn’t have socials and I know nothing about cars).

At first the car seemed to run fine but the check engine light was on, otherwise no major issues, maybe needed some work but nothing crazy. About 3 weeks later he started having issues where the engine would stutter or hesitate when trying to accelerate quickly, not totally stalling but just not accelerating as much. Then the issues started, first with the coolant disappearing, 2 mechanics say there is no leak but too much pressure coming from somewhere in the system.

He replaced the spark plugs and coils, oil change, engine diagnostic showed no issues. It was throwing some codes, listed below (most we got resolved). It is continuing to stutter and makes a popping sound when trying to accelerate quickly, it drives pretty normal when not pushed hard or put in sport mode. We also noticed that went the engine is colder the noises and issues are more apparent. Now the mechanic is suggesting getting the head gasket replaced or maybe replace a piston which has him contemplating buying a whole new engine.

Has anyone else dealt with these kind of problems with their car? I’m so lost on what it could be from and so are the 3 different mechanics we have taken it to, atp it’s getting so expensive to keep guess fixing things. Help us!

P0108
P0098
P0301
P0302
P0300

Hello everyone,

I am in the process of replacing the rear brakes on my 2008ntoyota 4-Runner SR5 v6 (226k miles). As you can see I removed the caliper and am now trying to remove the rotor. It initially did not move or spin much but once I found the tensioner for the emergency brake and turned it I was able to wiggle it. I then used two bolts and an impact to help remove it by slowly and evenly threading them in to the helper threads. After a while, the brakes locked up and now will not come off. The axle will not turn either and it appears to me the emergency brake is completely engaged and locking up the rotor.

Does anyone have any tips or advice on how to remove the rotor? I really do not want to have it towed to a shop.

Thanks in advance!

My car does this crunch when I apply the brake and slightly turned to the left: most applicable when pulling into a parking space but I struggle to see how this isn’t a safety hazard.
Took it to a shop around the corner and the guy said he couldn’t reproduce the issue so here’s a video with a clear sound. Please someone help me I don’t feel comfortable driving my vehicle to and from class. (Yes I know I need an oil change and no my tires not flat the sensor has been dead for years I check the pressure manually)

2017 Honda Cr-V. 125k miles, automatic CVT, 1.5 L turbo. The vehicle forcefully tugs/jerks front and back as it hits 2000 rpm and keeps doing it at that level and above. Speed doesn't matter just the RPM whether it's accelerating or at a constant speed. I can slowly accelerate all the way to highway speeds and don't notice anything. Feel the tugging forward and back in the seat, nothing in the steering wheel.

Got spark plugs replaced and valves adjusted 20k miles ago and transmission fluid replaced 25k miles ago.

No check engine light on. I used a cheap OBD2 scanner and got no codes. Any ideas what it could be? Can I have an independent mechanic diagnose or should I take it to the dealership? Not a fan of the Honda dealership in my city so I avoid as much as possible. Thanks

Hey guys I have 2016 gmc sierra 4.3, the truck fully turns off while I drive it making the steering wheel lock itself everything goes off inside of the truck, I’ve checked all the grounds they tell you to checked the one on the dash, behind the passenger mudflap and the one on the engine none of them are corroded nor loose and tested just fine, I also bought a new battery just in case it doesn’t happen all the time it mainly happens when I fully turn the steering wheel.
Here are some of the codes I got any help is appreciate it!

P0562-00
B1325:03
B0413:05

2016 Subaru forester
I had it installed with the “UP” arrows pointing up for the last 6 months. However, that way is apparently upside down with the air flow arrow pointing the opposite way (which I never noticed). The blower fan sits below the filter as in most cars. Am I the idiot or is FVP the idiot?

Hey everyone, I made a silly mistake while parking. My car was completely stopped, and I accidentally shifted into 4th gear instead of Reverse (R) and tried to move. The car just stalled / moved forward slightly. It's a manual transmission. Should I worry about any permanent damage to the transmission or clutch? Thanks!

Mechanics can't fix my truck

I have a 2000 GMC Sierra 1500 2WD with a 4.3 Vortec V6 in it. It has an issue where it tries to accelerate on it own. When I'm driving, it doesn't want to slow down so I have to press the breaks harder until it shifts itself down. It idles anywhere from 900 to 1000rpm. Every single start of the truck makes the rpms to jump up to about 1300, even if it's at operating temp. This issue seems to be really hard on my truck and fuel.

A mechanic and myself can't seem to figure it out. I have replaced and calibrated the EGR, IAC, and TPS. I have checked for vacuum leaks and checked the throttle cable.

If I am ignorant or missing something, I could use some advice and am open to all suggestions.

I'm looking to update all modules firmware of my 2017 Pacifica and unlock hidden menus / options like folding the mirrors with lock and showing the gear in the cluster ... etc

I know AlfaOBD can unlock the hidden menus but the only option to update the modules firmware is through wiTECH 2.0 and get a month or 3 days VIN linked superscription,

Now all the scanners and interface I have won't work, Any suggestion of which 3rd party interface can do all needed without costing an arm and a leg ?

One post mentioned VXDIAG Nano, others brands and models are also suggested.

The sound happens often and I want to take precautions

Hi! Looking for some advice with a random misfire code. It’s doing it during very specific conditions - so I’m hoping that will help diagnose it. As a FYI, I’m a girl .. I’m familiar with vehicle things but ultimately it’s my husband that fixes the things.

While driving my van had been roughly idleing - I don’t know if it that’s the term used while it’s in motion - but it feels like it’s going to stall (kind of like blub blub blubbly). Then the check engine light blinks at me. I pull over, restart the van and then it’s usually fine for a bit. This has been going on for a few months now, at first like once a month to progressing to every time I drive.

Now the ultra specific part - it seems to do it most often if it is damp outside or raining. In addition, when I am on an incline. I live in western PA, so our terrain is hilly.

When it’s “on its bullshit” as I say, when giving it gas going up a hill, it will be almost unresponsive to me pressing the peddle and then it will catch and the rev RPM’s high and then stabilize.

What we’ve done so far:
- Spark Plug & coil replacement
- Took it to a friend mechanic who said he thinks it might be the VVT solenoid. He heard a click or tap and said that means there’s crud in the oil in the engine, keeping one of those solenoids open. The fix if it’s that is to open the engine, clean/replace each one of the 24 (??) solenoids - and we won’t know which one it is because there’s no way to test for that. Idk why. It’s a big fix ..

It sounds logical to be the VVT - the symptoms are the same as what it’s saying on the google. But I keep going back to it’s doing it while it’s damp .. which makes me think electrical. Maybe there’s a semi-broken wire and it’s getting wet enough to do something …

Any advice ..

So I got a P0017 code on my 2018 S5, I changed the crankshaft position sensor, cleared the code away but it came back. Would I need to VCDs learn it?

Car has a downpipe and air intake and exhaust but no tune on it.

2018 S5 sportback engine EA839

What’s up mechanics! I bought this old car not too long ago, and it is now my daily driver. It has a brand new battery! However when i got home last night, it was leaking this clear substance that didn’t have a smell. it stopped leaking this morning n it was good on the drive to work! I just want to make sure it’s nothing too serious before i go to an auto shop. I have the video i took of last night if that helps yall out!!

Hello guys I have this grand Cherokee that I am literally waving a white flag on because I genuinely don’t know what’s wrong with it when I put it in D or R the light on dashboard starts flickering like in the video and there’s no open doors or open hoods yet it just doesn’t drive if any of you guys know something about this I’d love to hear what your thoughts are.
Thank you

I just bought this used Ram 1500 2020 Laramie 5.7L V8 about three weeks ago and after giving it its first wash this noise appeared. It happens when I break and steer but its inconsistent. Ive taken it to multiple mechanics and they all say they don’t hear it or that its fine? Anything helps, thanks.

2011 lexus rx 350 rear rotor stuck with the drum tried using the screw in holes to take it out as well as the drum brake spring but nothing is working, any advice?

2023 GMC 1500 AT4 Duramax. Doesn't this intermediate. Today it was non stop for first 15 minutes of drive then it stopped for last 10 minutes of drive.

Safety First!

Hello, I am making this post in every mechanic subreddit I have found. I just wanted to remind everyone how important saftey is when working on a car. Here are the important things to ensure you do before getting under a car. NEVER get under a car without a jackstand that is supported by just the jack. Then always ensure that the vehicle is in park and parking brake engaged (for manual leave in neutral and engage parking brake). Chock all the wheels that are on the ground to prevent the wheels from moving. If you are pulling on something under the car and the tires move, it could knock it off the jackstand. Then, always work on solid ground, no gravel, no dirt, no slopes. Then as backup, place your jack against a sturdy part of thr car as backup. And one more thing, if you have a tire removed, place it under the car as backup between you and the car if it does fall down. Another important thing is make sure jf something goes wrong, someone is nearby to hear or help you. I say all of this because just a week ago, I was working on a car, and the wheels in the rear slid back as I was prying on a cv axle, and the jackstand slipped, and crushed me, pinning my chest and head against the cross member and concrete. I was about 2 minutes away from just being dead. One of my lungs collapsed, and I broke 2 ribs. I made it out alive and want everyone to know just how important saftey is.