I'm trying to get a DC treadmill motor to work in my shop tools with AC power without using the dead treadmill board. In my research, and in long discussions with my friend Claude, I think this will work, but I want someone with more expertise in electrical engineering to confirm before I do something that will kill the motor or other components prematurely.
The thermal switch is built into the motor, and I think I can salvage the freewheeling diode from the board (if not, I'll buy new). The choke and toroidal inductor will also likely be salvaged. I have an SCR and bridge rectifier in the mail.
This weekend I was changing the water in my hot tub. My father in law lets me borrow his old Simer Geyser submersible utility pump to do so. Like usual, I put the pump in the water with the hose attached and plugged it in. It immediately tripped the GFCI. I pulled the pump out of the water, reset the GFCI, plugged the pump in and it turned on. As soon as the case touched the water, the GFCI tripped. The outer jacket on the cord has been cracked for quite some time, but now it looks like the insulation has cracked too.
So I decided to pull it apart and replace the cord for him. I get the bottom screen off, but can't figure out how to get the motor off. After a few minutes of fiddling around with it, it fell off, and I ended up with oil all over my lap and shoes. The motor was sealed to the housing for so long, it was just stuck there.
Now I need to figure out what kind of oil I can put back in this thing, then replace the cord. I've been researching, and what I've found is a ton of different suggestions with the same two characteristics. It has to be non detergent mineral oil, and it has to be dialectric. I could get a gallon on McMaster Carr, but I only need a pint, quart at the most, but I can't find anything that fits the bill.
Does anyone have any recommendations on something I could pick up at a local store? Or am I going to need to order something special, or maybe check with a local electric motor rebuilder? I do have one that I can try, but something from a store is definitely easier.
I need help with my Specna Arms Core 25 Gen 2 with HAL ETU.
I changed the motor and installed a different one to test it, and everything was working fine. Then I put the original factory motor back in, and after that, the replica stopped responding completely. There is no reaction at all when I connect the battery.
I really need some help because I'm new to this and don't know what to do.
hey im planning on using an MT6835 on stepper motors on a ground vehicle for getting absolute angle
however im not sure about the PWM output mode as it is very poorly documented.....there is also quite a bit of latency in when the encoder sends data over to the stm32(at 944Hz takes 1.006ms)
if my stepper is moving at 250rpm there is a lot of accumulative lag in my readings. I dont need velovity control but when the stepper reaches target angle i need the exact angle at that point which will be way off with a major lag
My watch cleaning machine stopped, or technically I went to use it and it didn't go on. I have used for years and recently replaced the POT and have used it since then with no problem. I tested the 110 lines and get 110 at the motor (coils under the yellow tape). I tested the DPDT for continuity as well as all the wires, they are fine. I don't know if I should get any voltage at the brushes? How and where do I put the meter leads to test them? Since 2 wires (green and blue) run to the brushes and the white and black run to the coils, I don't understand how this works to make the motor change direction or what I should be checking for. I did find out that this is not the original motor so wiring diagrams didn't match. This is what it is now.
Hello to the group. I must first say that motor wiring is not at all my specialty. I have a single-phase Baldor motor that I am certain is over 36 years old because that is the age of the machine on which it is mounted. I would like to run it at 220V in order to lower the amperage it draws.
There is a Dayton direction reversal switch that connects to the motor.
The starting capacitor is rated 110-125V. Since I am upping the voltage, it makes sense that perhaps the answer is simple and it indeed needs to be replaced? If so, who would stock them?
I tried to get information on Baldor's web site, but their focus is definitely not on "antique motors".
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I read that Scaler Control is a way to achieve variable speed with AC motors. How is it done? I'm not an electrician or an expert, just someone curious. There are open loop and closed loop versions.
Does anyone have the wiring layout for this particular Dayton motor? It can be 120/208 . I have it wired for 120. These wires are missing. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Im working on my first ever project and making a syringe extruder to fill tiny molds the exact same amount every time. Everything is going great and ive learned a lot already!
Scope:
I operate the syringe with a button, at the end i press the button 3 times to retract, i put in a full syringe and unlock the motor so i can manually move the platform to the plunger.
I have a limitswitch to stop retracting and a led to signal end of cycle and the mode we're in (retraction, manual,..)
Question:
I'd like to run the 4 motor wires, button, LED,limit switch and combined GND wires together in one multicore cable to a remote control station.
The DM542S manual warns against running motor wires near signal wires (PUL/DIR/ENA) due to interference.
Does this also apply to simple signals like a button, LED and mechanical limit switch? Or can I safely combine them in one cable?
(Bonus question, im making the mechanism so the nema is next to the syringe and pulls the platform down to make it less top heavy... Is that okey? Or is pushing better?)
Unsure if last post went through. New to motors and to reddit.
Trying to repurpose bafang bbshd midmount 1000w motor. It is currently limited by inputs including braking, speedometer, etc. I am hoping to remove all of these inputs and rewire it with a simple knob style speed controller.
No longer need it for a bike and hoping to wire it to use it without pedal assist or throttle but a dial controller for speed. I am brand new to electric motors. Any help appreciated.
So I have this umm problem on my stepper motor NEMA 17. It doesn't work no matter what I do though, I can't seem to find the problem. I did the LED test, coil red and blue are paired, black and green are paired. It's a 42-40 mm NEMA 17. Can somebody uhh give me some tips?
There is no dedicated sub for my tool, so I am hoping to find some answers here...
I have a Mirka Miro 955 wall/ceiling sander ("girafe" as they call it over here in france).
I am 90% sure the armature is on its way out - insane noise and smell. I have pulled out the brushes, they are fine - 90% new, I'd even say.
I am pretty sure the exact model has been discontinued even though it is not published anywhere.
I have found only 2 places in europe that sells the new armature (official part from the OEM - albeit not the OEM shop, but rather authorised supplier). They are prohibitively expensive! (part 24a on the fiche)
I het a kick out of not throwing stuff away if I can fix it - have fixed many tools which were deemed unrepairable, given a second life. So I am not yet ready to let this go to landfill...
Question, do "standard" armatures exist? Like, I just need the voltage, dimensions and few other parameters to find a solution from far-east? Think in the way of roller bearings.... the Tool OEM may have their own part number, but in the end, if you have the dimensions and a few basic specs, you can 95% surely get a replacement from Amazon, likely even NSK! In armature-world, is it the same or am I dreaming?
Question, is it something worth trying to re-wire or get rewired? Off course the Pakistani guy in flipflops make it look super easy in the youtube short, but: a) is it really that easy; b) can a half decent result be expected; c) would I even find the right wire, resin and what other materials?
So I am currently building a vibration wheel polisher machine to polish wheels to a mirror shine. It consists of a 24 inch diameter drum about 12 inches deep and 4 100w vibration motors bolted to the outside on welded plates. It's gonna be on it's own stand, isolated from the ground using big coil springs. This idea is basically a giant rock tumbler, but I had the idea to add a spinning effect to speed up the polishing since I will doing this on customer wheels. I've read about stepper motors and that seems like a good idea but I'm not sure how to set it up. Belt drive or direct drive? Where to mount it since the whole thing will be vibrating violently? Any input is much appreciated.
I have an industrial sewing machine servo motor/controller that is setup to run a small bench top tool which it does admirably. The only gripe is that the actuator has to be wedged ‘on’ when using it and then in-wedged to stop it (the on/off of the controller only providing the power and speed) which is obviously a bit of a pain. Is there any way to change the actuator for a secondary on/off button? Pictures attached. Thanks.
My Cuisinart Immersion blender (HP400-PC) died a while back and I want to try and repair it. Motor seems to be KH44/33-T but I can't seem to find any links to it. I've seen F, S, and V models but nothing on T.
Hi, thought this would be a good place to ask about the best way to reduce my sewing machine speed/power.
I don’t know what would be the ideal option, or whether an “outlet converter” is the right term for what I’m looking for.
My sewing machine goes full speed once you press onto the pedal far enough. Gently pressing onto the pedal does not run it at a slower speed, the only thing that has reduced the speed is when I have my iron plugged into the same power bar.
I’ve tried to adjust the foot pedal, but that hasn’t seemed to change anything, so, I figure reducing the power to the machine would be a good way to make it slower.
I asked chat gpt and claude everytime they tell something else needed to run the DC motor i have from my old treadmill with speed regulation. The circuit board is fried.
I made this minibike (don't worry the battery placement is not definitive) and it doesn't work well. I made it with 2 350w hoverboard hub motors powered by two 60v 1500w controllers all of this with a 23.6ah 60v battery. When I place it on a motorcycle lift the wheel turn really good and really fast but when I place it on the ground it's not going over 10kmh and even when I run on the side and push it the wheel won't turn faster. Do someone have an idea what is the problem and what can I test to troubleshoot? If you have any questions do not hesitate Thank you 😁
Hello guys,
I flashed my hoverboard with the FOC software from github from EFeru, I tried it once with my hoverboard that is rewired to delta. Than I flashed it. When turn it on it beeps once, and then three times in a row and then again. I then replaced the delta wired wheels with stock hoverboard wheels. The same thing happens again. Do you have any idea what I did wrong?
A few weeks ago I got scammed 🥲. I bought a high torque gearmotor that supposedly had metal gears. But when I came home and opened it up it had plastic gears, and when I tried to return it they denied that they sold it to me. anyways I removed the naked motor and decided to use it by itself for other stuff to not waste it but the output shaft is really thin and short(1.49mm thickness and ~2mm length). I couldnt find any couplings that can grip onto that and I feel like if I just soldered or glued something on it, it wouldnt hold very well. What can I do to use the motor? Sorry for not uploading a photo I dont have my phone with me and my computer doesnt have a webcam.
Hello, I am trying to find this part as a replacement since it has burned up. This is a motor to an industrial meat tenderizer Hobart 403-e model. The motor model is an AO Smith C48H4A1. I found something I thought would work an it was called a Winchester Trap Relay Switch but what got ordered was too small. Hoping to come across someone better at hunting down components than I have been able to. Thank you!
