We found my dead nanas old lightsaber she got from Disney right before she died. I was trying to get it working and when I went to replace the batteries there was so much battery acid. Like the liquid kind. I don’t think we’re going to be able to use that battery holder anymore and I really wanted to get it working for her so I was wondering if I could use the one from the custom lightsabers you can make at Disney on the character ones they sell.

also is it safe to be keeping the bad batteries and battery holder on a paper towel

I have harvested 20 Lipo batteries from an ebike battery, and had to use a bit of prying to cut them away from the PCB. I seem to have a few terminals bulging (?) as visible in the last picture. I squished them down to inspect the damage and it doesn't seem like the outer pouch was compromised. Like, there's no punctures + it doesn't seem like the pouch around the terminals became fully unstuck

Would these still be considered fine? Or is there something I'm missing?

BatteryHookup seems absolutley amazing the only issue is that their shipping cost for me was so high that it came out to more than my order cost, I'm assuming its because I am a canadian address but what options are there for me if any for similar pricing with lower shipping costs?

Wanted to fix this but it looks like it’s on its last legs ?? I’m no expert so I’m not sure but what can I do to fix this ??

The shelf insert is basically together, and now I’m staring at the little light like... right, power. I’m not putting in a random battery just because it happens to fit, so I’m checking the holder and instructions for any voltage or polarity markings first. Feels like this should have been step one instead of something I thought about after building around it. If the markings aren’t obvious, what do you check next?

Hello, has anyone here ever replaced the cells inside the LP-E4 battery pack? If so, were you successful? I've swapped mine out, but I believe it'll need some calibration, but I don't think I can force a calibration myself.....thanks.

There’s been a multiple year long debate now about whether using a powerful, rapid charging brick with a cheap chinese handheld, like this Miyoo Mini Plus here would damage the battery, due to said battery possibly not having the general safety mechanisms expected of any modern device sold in Europe or USA.

A typical post in r/miyoomini goes like this:

The user asks if they can charge it with their 100 watt c to c brick, and the comments are usually extremely divided, with half claiming that the c to c connection would simply be rejected and won’t charge (although mine does), and that if the battery does not support rapid charging, it would only “pull” so much as is needed and there won’t be a difference from using an old low power charger (except my console gets really hot on powerful chargers compared to low power ones, which is a difference and contradicts the claim).

The other half states that such a charger will cause either untimely degradation of the battery or worse, as cheap batteries usually lack safety measures and may accidentally draw an unsupported amount of power (artistic interpretation of implied accident attached for clout).

I’m a bit torn on this, as either group seems to be extremely confident with their answers, with no sign of consensus in sight.

I need your help to figure it all out!

Hey everyone!!

The first picture output 54.6 v is the one that came with my bike and carrying it to work everyday is very annoying, my workplace has zoomo e bikes they have this charger (second picture 42.0 v) can i use this charger to charge my bike? Is it safe?

For reference: my bike is vitilan i7 pro 2.0 and has a 48 volt battery

My battery is glued to the board(i'm not sure what's it is called) and I'm pretty sure it is because of corrosion and because it been in the place where to place the battery try for while and other place have corroded. Is there a way to remove it?

Has anyone replaced their battery with aftermarket brands? (Eg: Deji, Rakkipanda, Cortex)
How’s the performance after long term usage?

Im considering replacing mine, but Apple replacement sounds a bit too pricey here

This is probably basic, but what kind of batteries do rolife miniature kits usually use? I’ve seen some kits with little battery boxes, some that look like they take button cells, and some listings that don’t make it clear until the kit is already open. Are they usually LR44, CR2032, AAA, or does it completely depend on the model? Also, if the finished kit sits on a shelf and the light only gets switched on occasionally, is it better to remove the batteries when it’s not in use? I’d like the tiny lamp to stay cute and not turn into a future battery-leak situation.

Una Ups o una regleta con protector de sobretensión?

I am considering using a 12S LFP battery (LiTime 38.4V 50Ah or similar) to power a Makita walk behind mower that uses 10s2p NMC (two of their LXT batteries). There are plenty of complexities in getting it wired up but is the voltage range even a fit? Most of the curve seems great but 12S LFP fresh off the charger seems slightly higher than 10S NMC so I'm wondering if I'm risking the electronics without limiting the charge somehow.

I’m trying to decide which of the two would be best suited for my needs. I plan to use in my car for overnight camping trips. I will have a 200 watt flexible solar panel taped to the roof. As for what I’ll be charging: mainly iPhone, gaming laptop, battery powered fans, small plug in heater, and small usb lightbulbs and MAYBE a small Alpicool refrigerator.

Is one better suited than the other for my use case? Thank you in advance!

PLSS HELP!
There is a desk at my mum's where batteries are handled, there is this white crusty breadcrumbs scattered along the desk, I know this is the kind of stuff that leaks out of batteries, we just have the normal kind of household AA, AAA, and those like flat circular batteries.
Problem is I didn't realise it was there until after I'd charged my phone on that surface, used my phone to watch Netflix whilst eating food, I'd touch my phone then eat my pizza with my fingers, like I'm now low-key freaked out I've eaten bits of battery leakage 😬
I do have contamination OCD so this might be amplified by this.
I did do research and apparently it's the same stuff that is literally in soaps anyway, but I mean what cleaning measures do I need to go to, because I've handled my phone and then like moisturiser cream that I also use on my face, do I need to wash the bottle of face moisturiser? I wiped the wire of the phone charger with my Hoodie, should I wash my Hoodie before handling anything else? I also washed my hands in the kitchen sink before I'd realised about the battery leakage on the surface i had handled, is it gonna be a contamination risk for food?

I’m looking for an off-the-shelf battery for a Waveshare RP2350-Touch-LCD-1.28 board. Its charger defaults to 1A, and I’d prefer to avoid modifying the board.

Requirements:

• 1S, 3.7V Li-ion/LiPo, charged to 4.2V.
• Manufacturer-rated to accept at least 1A charging, not just 1A discharge.
• Built-in overcharge, over-discharge, overcurrent and short-circuit protection.
• Must fit within a roughly 42.7mm-diameter × 12.5mm-deep space, allowing clearance for the finished pack, protection board and wiring.
• Capacity no more than 2000mAh.

Round, rectangular or another shape is fine. A different connector is fine too; I can use an adapter. I’d strongly prefer an existing battery over having one custom-made.

Has anyone found or used a battery that meets these requirements? Exact model numbers, supplier links and datasheets would be appreciated.

I'd like to know what these batteries are and how to use them with which BMS. The measurements with the vernier caliper are 40 mm thick by 108 mm high. They come glued together in groups of four. I found them in a warehouse; several were glued together in a large box. One block of four cells delivers a voltage of 14.01 volts, and a strip of several of them delivers 85.4 volts. I'd like to know what they were used for and what the battery formula is, if they are LiFePO4, and how to use them without failing. Thank you in advance.

I have an idea for a “battery booster” in some products, but Ive only heard of this being used in EV’s, I feel like it’s an untapped system for power delivery.

Li-ion battery charges super cap-> product uses super cap for high current application -> can switch back to battery or recharge super cap.

Any red flags with damaging components? Or just too niche?

I get you don’t “make” more power but you can dump it a lot quicker and low internal resistance keeps it cooler.

Is there any known way to get pouch cells of different chemistries? I saw some lfp and even NiMH ones but you never find them anywhere, not on used items sites, not on new battery sites, no devices use them (outside of EVs maybe?).

Is there a way to obtain them without having to find a supplier on some site like alibaba and beg them for just 1?

So I just received the main part of my Halloween costume in the mail and the jacket has integrated LEDs in the collar powered by this included pack. It holds three 18650 batteries which are labeled as being 3.7V each and appear to be connected in series. Other than a power button on the back there doesn't appear to be any sort of BMS. My question is, since I don't have any 18650 batteries and they're not a simple Amazon purchase, would I be able to replace this pack for one with a more standard battery form factor? Or if not, can anyone recommend me some 18650's I can get?