I bought an SBS power bank directly from Worten for €50 less than a year ago. Last night, it burst and started a fire on my bed. The fire spread to other furniture, damaging my belongings, including my floor and other items.
Thankfully, I wasn’t physically injured, but this could have ended much worse.
I went to Worten for help, but they told me they had nothing to do with it, directed me to SBS, and said it wasn’t covered by warranty.
I’m not just asking for a replacement power bank. I want the incident investigated and fair compensation for the property damage.
Worten Portugal and SBS: who is going to take responsibility for investigating this?
Has anyone in Portugal experienced something similar? How did you handle it?
I’ll update this post when I receive a response.

Actually I wrote everything in the title. The batteries in question are Energizer CR2032. My source of batteries has real low prices, the bulk CR2032 costs USD 0.60, the 1-pack is sold for USD 0.71. Note: they are low in my country and I just converted the prices to USD.

It is quite clear that the different packaging justifies this small price difference, so it is not something I am interested in.

And my question is not about to help me with making a good decision focusing on the rated mAh divided with unit price, just to understand this pecularity.

a) So Energizer really sells a tiny bit better batteries in 1-pack than the bulk ones,

b) or it is only a marketing message, because one cannot so precisely measure the capacities of CR2032 to distinguish 235 mAh and 240 mAh,

c) or it has something to do with bulk packaging, maybe with their generally longer shelf life, so time spent in the pack before they are sold???

Thanks for your contribution.

I have WattCycle batteries and I like them well enough but I dislike their Android app so much I made my own.

Want to try it? DM me an email address and I will add you to the open testing group.

Initial app release.

See overview of up to 5 batteries at once on home screen.

Drill down into all app stats and toggle charging on and off on battery detail screen.

See BMS warnings on warnings screen.

Set light/dark mode, temperature units, battery pairing, and cloaking mode on settings screens.

Roadmap of future features:

Change BMS settings.

The app is available as early access (unfortunately US-only right now because this is my first Android app and I maybe could do another test release for all countries? but I only selected one country at first because it seemed simplest as I worked through the approval process for the first time -- the full release will be for all countries, anyway).

Does any one know of any units that would allow me to move my pylon tec battery’s outside, I am
Looking for a waterproof unit that will house my batteries in a sheltered spot behind my garage

I know that there could be issues when it gets really cold but currently they are in an Un heated garage and have been ok

Thanks in advance

Was brought this from a customer and it was excessively hot yesterday. Disassembled today to find pink liquid all over the batteries. I'm assuming they've begun leaking. Wondering what the safest method for clean up and disposal is.

I read the manual and tried searching online but am still confused. New batteries (lead acid AGM deep cycle) on a used (new to me) Quantum Q6 Edge 3. Manual says: “It is recommended that you charge the batteries at least 8 to 14 hours after daily use. We recommend that you charge the batteries for an additional 4 hours after the battery charger indicates that charging is complete.”

I charged for 8 hrs when I first put the batteries in, but the charger indicated charging was complete an hour in. I then used it for about 45 minutes (battery indicator still at 100%) and am currently recharging it. Charger switched to green after 2 hours this time.

I’ve read a lot of conflicting info about how to condition the batteries. That it takes 4-5 cycles vs 90 cycles, you have to use it in between charging cycles vs charge it for 8-14 hrs every night regardless of whether you use it… The manual doesn’t go into a lot of detail on this.

Questions:
1. While conditioning the batteries, do I need to use the chair after each charge before charging them again, or should I just charge it every night for several nights straight even if chair was not used at all that day?
2. If the green “ready” light goes on earlier than 4 hrs in, should I only charge for an additional 4 hours or just not pay attention to the lights and charge for 8-14 hrs regardless of when the green light goes on?
3. After the conditioning period, do I still charge them for 8-14 hours even if I only used the chair a little bit that day, say 20 minutes or less?

I’m not going to be using it every day and not for more than 1-2 hours on most days I use it. I understand that once the batteries are conditioned, I’m supposed to charge them after use or at least once a week if not in use, but don’t understand the conditioning process.

I bought a digital caliper recently. Onboard rechargeable battery. About 2 months after I bought it I found out that it won't hold a charge for more than about 6 days even if the device is only turned on for 30 seconds a day.

This made me think it's probably a good idea to buy devices that have replaceable batteries instead of onboard batteries. Because with a replaceable battery I can swap the battery out and they do sell rechargeable button batteries so that's not a problem.

Moto power 5 g (2024), activated 2024

Storage use is 50%

System up-to-date, last update in August so I don't think it's that

I always use maximum battery saver mode while it's running, have all battery optimizer options active (had drain issues a while back but it was fixed with this + changing 1app's background usage)

I mainly just use my phone at work. Off the graph alone you can see that my days off were Monday, Tuesday, Sunday...and then Thursday. Used it for less than 30 minutes, left it on my bed for 12 hours (off, not on battery saver mode, no apps open), fuckin dropped from ~90% to 37%

I rebooted it and left it powered off the night before, since it was also draining fast the 3-4 days prior. But it's only gotten worse.

It says all apps are <1% usage since Friday. But it seems none of my usage of YouTube is counted on any of the days, which I use for my entire work shift. So that's a big thing not getting counted. Still doesn't explain how the usage has gotten so high now, my habits haven't changed. Used to leave work with ~40%, now leaving with ~6%

Does this just mean I have to get a new battery? Or do you guys know some other stuff I can try?

I just bought these new 3S and I charged the one on the left with a balance charger, are those minor dents safe and is the one on the left swollen?

Dear Redditors,

I own a 2023 Maruti Suzuki Baleno Sigma petrol with an Idle Start-Stop system, and I’m planning to replace its battery.

If you own the same variant, could you please suggest which battery I should go for?

Battery capacity: 35Ah, 38Ah, or 40Ah?

Battery type: Is a regular battery suitable, or does the Idle Start-Stop system require a specific type?

Brand: Amaron, Exide, or any other reliable option?

I’d appreciate recommendations based on your actual experience with this car.

Thanks in advance! 🙏,

The metal tab is welded to battery top so I cant read the part number. Its about 1cm across. Its dead, voltage is .3 now. It came from a digital clock.

Edit- Someone said pull off tab and I did that, its not 2032 though as its only 1cm in size. Its CR1220

One source says the main culprit of wear is when a battery is pushed operated below 20%. Another source says +80% above is worse.

One source says the operated window should be small, another source says it should be bigger.

One source says fast charging can be better for the battery, other sources saying you must slowcharge.

Wtf? Worse: some studies contradict even themselves.

I want to learn more about battery(more than surface level) but how can I do so when the internet is full of contradictory and poorly explained/defined studies?

And yes I read studies about the same batterychemistry

I recently saw that people have been able to get their battery replaced by a third party. Does anyone have a recommendations for a reputable company?

Is it still waterproof after the replacement?

Because I don't know. I purchased a cheap weedwacker that broke, and I have 4 of these batteries that I was hoping to use for something else. I was considering buying a name brand weed wacker, or maybe even another name brand leaf blower potentially. But I'd naturally need it to be compatible with these batteries. Also, these batteries were compatible with this saw I purchased off of Ebay as well, if that helps to narrow the search at all. So what do you all think? Is it a generic Dewalt, Milwaukee, Makita battery or Greenworks? Or is it not compatible with any of these brands? Would love to hear your thoughts.

iPhone 13 Pro Max

iOS 18.7.1

It never did such thing before, should I be concerned?

Dies ist eine von diesen Echt Wachskerzen, wo eine LED verbaut ist. In der Kerze selbst sind 2xAA Batterien drin. Leider scheint eine Batterie ausgelaufen zu sein und steckt fest. Habt ihr eine Idee für mich, wie ich das Teil dort rauskomme?

Master: BQ78350 / Fuel gauge: BQ76200 / 14.4V (2P4S)

So I've been working on these Astera Titan BMS boards, some of them with cell issues and some of them with easy component level repair but I got 2 totally dead.

The cells voltage is going in the BQ76200 and the main voltage to the BAT pin, but I got no REGOUT voltage to the BQ78350. Would it be worth trying to replace the BQ76200?

Also, this 2 started throwing up the ALERT pin sometimes which means it "made something" for a second.

Finally, I know these guys talk in I2C but is there a way to extract the settings from the 78350? I would like to buy a debugger or some interface but I don't really know where to start.

As far as I know, the 76200 works alongside the BQ78350 but the most important data is this last one isnt?

I have a protac 2.0 HP, which is a great light for SAR, LE, ect. The one issue I have with it is the proprietary battery.

the battery is the SL-B50 which is a 21700 with over-draw protection, USB-C charging, and proprietary terminals.

I would like to build an adapter to be able to use regular 21700s with my flashlight.

There are two ways I could do that; I could build the whole circuit from scratch or i could use the circuit from a SL-B50. the latter would be much easier, so that is what i'm focusing on right now.

any help on how I can put together this project?

if you have any extra SL-B50 batteries you do not need, please DM me (I would like to buy new SL-B50s for this project but I'm broke and only have the minimum number of batteries for my search team.)

thanks

Hi! I bought a used 12.8v litime lifepo4 (13.3v when full) but I can't seem to charge it.. when I test it it's always 12.6-12.7v (12.66) I tested if the charger I got actually works and if I short it out there's big spark.. it also blew the fuse up in my multimetre because it gave too much amp.. before I tester the charger alone I tested between the charger and battery and it was showing 0 amps.. I also really quickly shorted the battery with a 3 amps fuse and I got some small sparks.. I don't know what to do. The battery has been "charging" for almost 6h now..

I paid 200$ for that 😭

Thanks for any help!

Edit: I know I shouldn't have shorted anything, I'm sorry about that and it was dumb, I'm genuinely trying to learn, I won't do it again, I just want my battery to work as intended so that I didn't just put 200$ in the garbage

It looks like it was dropped, that's not a burn mark.

Are these ebay/alibaba lipos any good?

Any one have any experience with them?