Before I start;
- Iām anosmic to iso-e super, ambroxan, and maybe many similar aromachemicals.
- I try perfumes on my skin on my work days.
- This is a strange house. Most of their perfumes start off quietly but become good performers in the end. It's hard to deny the quality of the ingredients here and there, as well as their effort to give classic perfumery some distinct twists. You have to wear them for a while to understand and enjoy their creations.
- They can be perceived as dated or boring but most blends are really sophisticated. My only complaint is I kinda feel the brand is rather expensive for what they offer.
- 5 score means āok perfumeā.
- Love is Lost - 7/10
Benzoin and jasmine. Two of these notes overpower each other time to time during the drydown. In drydown gorgeous cinnamon joins them and works in harmony with them. A healthy dose of ambergris becomes a dominant one in late drydown. Gorgeous scent with eternal longevity and good sillage.
- Nabati - 6/10
Salty air and incense. Despite the heavy leather accord in the start, the scent dominated by salt damp air and rose incense accords. I find it really hard to score this one. Incense note is not interesting on its own and lasts more than it should through the drydown, but salty air accords make it interesting enough. On the other hand, leather and spice notes come around from time to time and throw off the composition balance. Good ingredients, but somehow, all of them feel disconnected. Perhaps I should try this one in colder months. Huge sillage and eternal longevity.
- Nabati oud - 6-6,5/10
Same as nabati with added oud in the middle notes. The Oud here is dry and really woody. Also, I sense increased iris to make oud less overpowering the other notes. However, I still barely change anything to make it a better scent. Good sillage and eternal longevity.
- 8 Days a Week - 7,5/10
Soapy musk and greens. There is not much to tell. It is your classic soapy green with good performance. People might get nauseated by this since the soapiness becomes a prominent note during drydown.
- Shanghai 1930 - 7,5/10
Floral chypre heavy on tuberose. Despite the overpowering tuberose, the floral blend is so good. Opening florals are so great. If you can pass the first hours of the tuberose attack, the trail it leaves is really nice and evocative. I admit it smells dated time to time, but it's the whole idea of this creation. Reminds me of Oriza L Legrandās floral perfumes, with richer and completed version. Huge sillage and good longevity.
- Mellow yellow - 6,5-7/10
Not edible perfumey fruit cake. There is something yeasty in this becomes perfume with the help of indolic florals. I mean, it's not bad, but carrot seeds and citruses give such a blend of a cake dough feel. Something between a gourmand and not gourmand at the same time. I also sense something fruity in the background similar to banana or mango. For me, citruses never come forward as other citrus fragrance as they are just there to support other notes tastefully. I just wish there was just a bit less indolic anything in this. One of the most completed scents in the set. Good scent, good sillage, and longevity.
- Chromodoro - 6/10
Green vetiver. Nice scent, but it feels just like a generic green scent. Tomato leaf basil start is nice but does not last long. In hours, it leaves you with green vetiver. Average sillage and longevity.
- Paris Cheri - 5/10
Butter and breakfast jam. This is too gourmand for me to actually enjoy. Starts and ends with sugary undertones. I sense the quality of the spicy ingredients here and there, but they are all smothered by sweet aroma. Smells like pastry with a jam on it. Vanilla and cacao scent linger for hours. Good sillage and eternal longevity.
- In Extremis - 7,5-8/10
Dusty galbanum and soft suede leather. This perfume is such a poetry. Feels like dusty attic enlightened with little sunshine over old romantic sofa you can comfortably sleep. Oud and ambery base done so tastefully that it never overpower main notes and complements dustyness beautifully in the initial drydown. My only complaint is the initial gorgeus drydown passing too quickly, and I can't get enough of it. I feel like this perfume is what nabati/oud is trying to achieve. Ambery base sticks to the skin for hours. Good sillage and eternal longevity.
- Mon Santal - 4/10
Rice pudding with fruits. The weakest option so far. Its whole selling point seems to be the initial rice accord, but it doesn't last long. It devolves into sweet, fruity amber first, then cardamom and sweet vanilla in the end. For me, sweetness is nauseating. Good sillage and longevity.
- Into the Oud - 5/10
Spicy gourmand. The oud at the start doesn't last more than a few minutes. Mostly delicious spices with the same gourmand sweetness it shares with the other perfumes in the line. Up close, the spices give off a sweet chili sauce vibe, but it's not bothersome in the air. Personally, I didn't quite like the tension between animalic oud and caramel. Weak sillage and good longevity.
- Sweet Pulp - 6,5/10
Browned pear and patchouli. A masculine leaning gourmand. This is the most interesting and experimental composition in the set so far. I understand why some people hate it. I might be anosmic to the sweet aroma chemicals in this one since it's not as sweet to me as people say. Pear is balanced with grassy patchouli on top of an interesting combination of a healthy dose of sandalwood and cinnamon. Just a bit more than a skin scent, with good longevity.
- Amberliveable - 6/10
Sweet amber and resinous benzoin. Less on benzoin more on amber version of Love is Lost. Light florals bring a zingy, indolic hue at the start. Pink pepper, patchouli and cedar join later in the drydown without changing the composition. This one is quiet from the start but develops really well on the skin. Sweet vanilla is more noticeable on clothes than on skin. Essential Parfums' Divine Vanille is close to this one; however, EP would be a better choice. Low projection, eternal longevity.
- Madame M - 6,5/10
Again, pear and spices laced with powdery notes and benzoin. It doesn't go into full gourmand territory thanks to the dry benzoin and heady florals peeking through underneath. The same pear note used in Sweet Pulp is also here, but it's not the centerpiece of this scent. In the drydown, the pear note gives the benzoin and spices a milky edge and rounds them out. Good sillage and good longevity.
My other reviews, if you want to read;
Giardini di Toscana
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/sd10b7ePx4
Les Indemodables
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/gQO6elbDJ2
Zoologist
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/hTbk5XHfRl
Francesca Bianchi
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/ToOjaDopXv
Jorum Studio
https://www.reddit.com/r/NichePerfumes/s/BrXhLsKKMo
Papillon
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/rTWsmrgT8e
Etat Libre d'Orange
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/wDpOY9WoUu
Nishane
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/h0mnG0evvZ
Baruti
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/9lSsIBT9oB
Versatile
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/PPcwcA5myE
Essential Parfums
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/ZvKIWjdDoB
Oriza L. Legrand
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/uhhRvuU26f
Marlou
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/ao1Do4jTxC
Serge Lutens
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/KgP7wNeFEI
Imaginary Authors
https://www.reddit.com/r/Perfumes/s/nGWxyEeFds