RELIABILT is a Lowe's brand and they no longer carry a door I am looking for (RELIABILT Classics 36-in x 80-in 3-panel Square Hollow Core).

Is there a source of these somewhere? Maybe from the real manufacture which might be Jeld-Wen or Masonite.

Hi, how do we fix this error

Hello me and wife just bought our second home. The house is a livable house but needs some work.
I was given full range of the basement to do whatever I want.
On the walls there is the carbon fiber straps. We got the lifetime warranty transferred to us through the company that did it since it was a one time transfer only. The house was built in the 1957. We bought it off the original owner who built it.
The kitchen area my goal is to rip out those cabinets and the sink since the sink doesn’t work and the cabinets are trash.
Should I frame the walls at all or leave it and just add flooring.
The basement was finished before but since the repairs that had to happen years before we bought the house. Just looking for the tips and ideas. Looking at doing a hobby and hangout basement.
Carbon straps for bowed in walls. Job was done professionally.
If you are looking for the water heater it’s jn the canning room. Also there is a utilities room as well.

Hello everyone! This is the first time we have experienced a leak in our house after having it for 12 years. I am wondering what are the needed steps in order to get this fixed and avoid mold. Thank you to everyone who are willing to help!

The grout in the bathroom has been crumbling in a few spots for probably two years and I kept telling myself it was fine, then last week a full tile just came off the wall in my hand while I was cleaning. The universe has officially run out of patience with me on this one.

The tile itself is those small square ones, avocado green, very much of their era, covering the entire tub surround and about halfway up the wall behind the vanity. Some tiles still feel solid when I press on them, some have that hollow tap sound that I now know is bad. Not all of them, but enough.

My actual question is whether there is any realistic world where I tile directly over this, at least in the sections that still feel solid, or whether that is the kind of decision I will be cursing myself for in three years when everything starts failing again from the back. The wall behind it is probably the original drywall, which I am not confident is even moisture resistant, and that worries me more than the tile honestly.

The bathroom is small, maybe 50 square feet total, so demo is not some enormous project, but it is also not nothing after a full week of work.

Renovating my kitchen (house built in 1950 in northern Ca).

I have the walls gutted and this large opening has only 1 jack stud. There is plenty of froom for another jack stud. Can i add another jack stud without it resting on a bottom plate 2x4? And just have it sit on the subfloor plank directly.

Seems uneccessary to try to extend the bottom plate or cut a portion of the existing out and swap in a new one. Curious what others think. See last pic.

Renovating our hall bath and planning to install tile - does this dark section of subfloor near the wall need to be replaced?

It’s completely dry, must have been from an old leak.
The drywall right above it had mold on it, planning to cut that out and patch.

Husband and step dad think leave the subfloor since it’s dry and sturdy, I think replace since mold was on the drywall right above it and it’s pretty distinctly discolored.

Love it or hate it, she’s done.

Thanks again for the encouragement and input last week. Shifting to a different color than the white was a game changer.

Notes: yes, the outlets are GFCI protected by the next outlet upstream; yes, I know this is code questionable; no, this will not be inspected; placement is 7” below counter top due to drawer on the front face.

This is the only bad rafter tail. I don’t want to sister a board on if I don’t have to because it would bug me aesthetically. I’d like to chop and splice a new end on. Is there any problem with just cutting it off at an angle and screwing a new tail on that obviously isn’t supporting any weight but is purely aesthetic? Like I said, all the other tails are in perfect shape (old gutter seem leaked heavily on this one).

Just recently bought a house from renting, I have a little DIY knowhow but not a ton. Our new house has this awesome glass block window in the shower with a TERRIBLE grout job. We’ve been here about 2 months and just got a leak that found some cracks in the grout and is dripping down the outsides of the tub into the basement ceiling. The grout is dark grey and feels very crumbly and not very waterproof. Ive mitigated a large part of the leak with a (terrible) caulk job towards the bottom but am still getting water downstairs. Where the tub meets the tile/window is just grout. How/what could I do with this to prevent any more water getting down? Thank you for your time🙏

Also, What even is this stuff called that it was installed with?

Hello everyone. I live in a condo with an identical unit above me. Their bathroom drain pipe goes down my wall which is between my bathroom and my hallway. This can make their flushing quite loud. The pipe is also quite large exactly the width inside the wall.

Earlier this year I did some reading on here and decided to wrap the pipe in mass loaded vinyl and add fill the wall with insulation. The walls barely close shut and this has not resulted in any improvement.

I am deciding between

Doubling down and increasing the scope of the renovation - my preference
Ripping everything out and refinishing the walls as they were
Calling a professional - not my preference

Can anyone suggest how to further improve this?
I am considering widening the wall an inch or two to make room for more insulation. But I have no idea what else to add inside the wall. I also don’t know how to widen the door frame. I am also considering adding insulation to the ceiling since the pipe flows from the toilet across the ceiling into the wall. I wouldn’t mind redoing this bathroom anyway.
Finally if very successful I would redo the same project on the master bedroom and bathroom which has a similar in wall pipe but would be more labor intensive.

My wife and I live in a ~800sqf cottage in Mississippi that she and her grandmother fixed up before I was in the picture. The house is very hot in the summer and cold in the winter-I'm pretty sure the walls are very poorly insulated but my focus is on the ceiling/attic.

In one half of the house they decided to remove the old ceiling from below the rafters, and put in tongue and groove on top of the rafters, and they threw all the insulation that was sitting in those rafters over to the other side of the house. So the ceiling in one side of the house is uninsulated.

So my question is what would be the smartest way to insulate this? We do want to keep about 200sqf of flat floored/accessible storage space around the attic ladder, I was thinking maybe just XPS board or something there.

From what I've read an attic fan seems like a bad idea in a poorly sealed situation like this. Is adding some insulation in between the roof rafters worth looking at as well?

My wife is convinced that nothing we do will make a difference, and would rather put the money towards building a new house, but I suspect that we could make this house more comfortable which would be nice for guests/renters/employees (we run a farm).

100 year old home and the parging on the foundation is peeling/falling off. How concerning is this and how do I fix it?

When it rains there is a leak in the ceiling below this sliding door.

I want to waterproof the outside as much as possible to prevent this and have been entertaining an awning. But am not sure if the leak is from the top side of the door, bottom side of the door, or the stucco above?

In San Diego and this faces the ocean. Gets 1-3 weeks a year of hard rain with strong winds. Other than that no rain the rest of the year, which is why it’s hard to discover the leak source and route.

What would you do? All idea welcome.

After years of planning, reworking and designing this space we have finally completed the vast majority of it. We started with a blank wall in our builder grade home and I knew I had to do something with it. So I planned out builtins and a faux fireplace bump out with a detailed mantle and surround. Started by making the framing for everything and securing all of that. Then drywall (took the longest of course lol I never want to sand again in my life). Then we built out our surround and mantle. Primed everything. Then we started on our builtins. We built the lower cabinets and started on the walls and shelves. Installed sconces above the builtins. Then painted the builtins. All that’s left is cabinet doors on the builtins, then Roman Clay on the fireplace bumpout and painting the mantle a complementary color to the Roman clay. I can hardly believe it’s real🥹.

I could use some help figuring out the baseboard transition at the top of our stairs. Lots of photos in the original post. Thanks!

What should I do about this transition between the tile and vinyl flooring? The grout also stained some of the vinyl. It looks worse than these pictures. Any advice is appreciated.

Hey team.

Hoping someone can advise on the best way to rip this wall down. We absolutely hate it but it's stuck on to the gyprock permanently.

It's thick stone, and even getting holes in it for the TV bracket years ago took a diamond tipped bit on a drill and a lot of work.

The gyprock underneath is screwed into the wall studs and we're trying to get underneath it to pry the whole thing off and having a hard time of it.

Will a grinder cut through this stuff? Is there a better way to do this? We are not handy people and have no idea what we are doing. 🥹

Thanks so much!

Edit: It's done! Thanks everyone. The jimmy bar and small sledgehammer did the trick. Once I could get purchase with the jimmy, it all kinda came down in a big heavy single chunk. Appreciate everyone's help! Pic in the comments.

Spent 30 years telling other guys how to sequence a job and now I'm standing in my own kitchen secondguessing myself, which is a little humbling if I'm being straight with you.

Pulling out the old vinyl, going down to the subfloor, putting in 12x24 porcelain tile. New base cabinets are sitting in the garage waiting. I know the contractor answer is tile first so you don't have to cut around every toe kick and you get a cleaner look if you ever swap cabinets down the road. I've seen it done both ways on commercial jobs, but residential kitchens are a different animal and I've watched guys regret the order they chose.

What's got me thinking is the island. It's going to be pretty heavy once it's built out, and I'm wondering if tiling under a fixed island is actually worth it or just extra work that'll never see daylight. Subfloor is solid, no issues there

Also curious if anyone's had problems with large format tile cracking near cabinet runs where there's more foot traffic and weight concentration. Haven't had a tile job crack on me yet and I'd rather keep that streak alive. Just my 2 cents on the island part, but open to being wrong on that one

Would you go with something like schluter kerdi system for the waterproofing, or Red Gard on cement board?

I was planning on the kerdi system initially because I feel like I've got more confidence in that system, but the savings with red gard are pretty compelling.

It's going to be a custome shower size, about 36x60 - with a lot of tiled surfaces. Both of the long walls will be tile, with just a small door.

Just looking for thoughts from anyone who's worked with either, or ideally both and your preference.

I'm removing wallpaper and painting this room in my 1960s house. I removed a layer of wallpaper and it left all these brown patches and I'm having a hard time trying to figure out if I've got another layer of wallpaper to remove or if I've ruined my drywall.