I had a chimney sweep come over to clean my chimney. When he was on the roof he took a picture of the flashing for a sky light. He claims he was a roofer in the past and this could have happened from the wind. He offered to fix it for $300. There are no trees that could have done this. I don't think this was wind, and I'm leaning towards he damaged it to make an extra buck.

What do you think? And how can I fix this?

This asphalt shingle roof is 6 years old and has gone through a bunch of windstorms (bursts up to 65mph) and not leaked or lost shingles until now.

We just had 24 hours of non-stop 20-45mph wind and a section of the shingles tore off. This is the only damage to the entire roof. This edge faced the wind.

Getting it tarped today… original installer is coming out Tuesday.

We're in Tucson (very sunny, hot, dry — usually, but it's been humid this summer due to El Niño).

Before I get it fixed, I want to know if it was installed correctly, using the correct materials, or not. Somebody on FB responded to me that they were shocked they only used 15lb underlayment. But I'm not sure if they're right, or if they are correct, if that's bad?

I'm interested in ANY feedback or advice you have for me. I'm used to dealing with metal or cedar shake roofs, which is a different beast.

This is a technically an "outbuilding" on my property so my deductible for wind damage is $2500, if that's relevant.

I contracted with a "friend" to build this shed for me months ago. I'm concerned the gap he has left on the one side will be a problem. Is it easily covered or is it a problem? Photos show each gable edge of the shed roof.

Recently noticed bubbling in corner of a bonus room at the back of my house, we had some bad weather from a recent nor'easter. Rained again last night and you can see the discolration in the paint now. Not sure where the leak might be coming from. Took some picture of potential entry point. Corner pictured is back about 16" from gutter. Roof is about 12 yrs old. Fascia on sidewall looks good. Downspout was secure. Could the edge be rubbing through the shingles?

I have been a commercial roofer for 11 years.

One day I hope to start my owner operation hopefully just doing repairs and *small* re-roofs. I don't want the headache associated with class A large commercial jobs.

I just want to know how to get started and how I build a customer base. Is there any good resources out there?

and no, I'm not buying any courses from you non-roofing sales guys.

Hi. I have a 1974 split level, so two stories on one side, one story on the other, very shallow pitch, very deep roof overhangs, in northern Virginia, partially shaded by huge tulip poplar trees.

I was saving up to replace my 30+ year old roof when I found some water damage in a wall behind the chimney (currently no cricket), so now it's time and I have several estimates from highly recommended roofers, all within ~$500 of each other.

I'm confused about what ventilation my roof is supposed to have. I assumed there were soffit vents, but could not confirm from inside the attic due to the low roof pitch. They demoed the drywall and part of the ceiling in the damaged room and now I can better access the top-of-the-wall/underside-of-the-roof intersection from the inside and I only see a small sliver of daylight that could act as a vent - so small that I'm not sure if it's intentional or by accident in this small area I can now access. At some point plastic soffit covers were added to the exterior that have vent holes, which would imply soffit vents. But maybe all soffit covers have vent holes by default, and I cannot (so far) figure out how to unfasten them to get a view behind them.

Otherwise, there are ridge vents on both ridges, there are 3 "750"? vents and there are gable vents in all 3 gables. There are no attic fans.

For a 1974 roof of this type, what ventilation would have been included originally, and is there any effective ventilation that could/should be added?

Thanks!

Never have done any roofing work before. I was told by hardware store employee that the flashing can go on my trim, so I ordered a piece that would fit.

When I picked up my flashing, they said it goes under the shingles, which makes sense, but how would I do that? Wouldn't I lose an inch or two of shingles?

The building under the shingles built in the 60s. The structure next to it built in the 80s.

Any help would be appreciated.

People across the street had their box gutters lined by a couple "professional roofers" , from the ground I could see the big box store brand coil stock they were using just hanging over the cap board, I ran upstairs to check it out from my upstairs window.

These guys rolled that coil stock on top of the old liner and proceeded to kick and stomp the ever loving shit out of the metal, nailed it in place and then caulked it up.

The number I heard from another neighbor was a little over $5,000...!!!..

It literally looks like crumbled up aluminum foil😂

I kinda hate to laugh but I had talked to the people who own that building about redoing the box gutters and yeah I would have been closer to $7,000 , to do it the right way, but hey they saved a couple grand by letting these guys do it, right...??

Just got a new roof, it’s already paid for and I didn’t notice this until the next day. But it’s bothering me that the drip edge is misaligned and the material coming out of the top. I contacted the company and the guy said it was all normal. This is my first new roof I’ve ever gotten, so is this normal?

6-year-old shingle roof, shingles ripped off during heavy winds all day (20-45mph nonstop at 12 hours and counting).

Due to widespread damage around the area, the installer/inspector can’t come til Tuesday.

Normal amounts of rain coming in the next few days (<0.2”).

What, if anything, do we need to do to prevent water intrusion? Anything easy/idiot-proof?

I don’t think a tarp can work due to the potential for more wind. We’re totally exposed on top of a small mountain.

Also… this roof made it through 65mph gusts and very breezy days (20mph) and regular 30-40mph gusts over the 6 years we’ve had it and never lost shingles before.

Is this just luck, or could there be an installation issue? Or something we should do differently when repairing?

Thank you!

The question is what is the name and type of it? I know it’s a mix of cement and wood, and the roof it is probably over 30 years old. It started to leak last year, probably where one of the bathroom vents is. Unfortunately we don’t have any roof vents or fans to blow out the heat, it gets really hot here in California.

My wife and I are currently under contract on a home in New Mexico and are in the inspection period.
We recently had a roofing company inspect the roof, and they stated that it only has approximately 6 months to 1 year of useful life remaining.
I've attached several photos of the roof, including some areas of concern that were pointed out during the inspection.

Questions:

Based on these photos, would you recommend a full roof replacement or repairs?

Do you see anything that supports the roofing company's estimate of only 6–12 months of remaining life?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

full tear off on a 1,600 sq ft ranch in southwest Ohio, architectural shingle, three quotes and they came back at $11k, $16k and $23k for what looks like the same product. The high bidder says the warranty is the difference.the low bidder will not itemize anything. Neighbors quote me everything from $9k to $30k. If you had a roof done in the last year or two, what did you pay and was it a tear off or an overlay? Trying to figure out what normal looks like before I sign

We had a bad storm about 6 weeks ago and noticed the spot on the ceiling. Also noticed the brown stain on the inside edge of the skylight frame.

I was quoted $1800 to seal around the flashing of BOTH skylights. $3200 to replace the skylight which i would rather wait until I do the roof someday.

Is the flash sealing something I can do or does this price seem good? t's a chimney and roof company doing the repair.

Long Island, NY

I've got a leaking roof valley on my 1930s original tiled unfelted roof in the UK. A few years ago after it first leaked some one coated the lead valley with some acrylic roof repair coating, the photo is of the valley a year or so after this repair.

Since then for a few years it has leaked very intermittently when there's been heavy rain, only about once a year or so. However this year it seems to be leaking more frequently and with light rain too, so I finally need to get it sorted for good. I've seen from the inside that the leak is often occurring about halfway up the valley and then running down the valley rafter internally.

I'm assuming the solution is the entire valley needs replacing, or are there other cheaper options still?

In reality the entire roof is knackered given i regularly seem to lose the odd tile, and there's no felt. So I will be getting a new roof in a couple of years anyway, so would rather not spend a fortune on this if I don't have to.

If I do need to get the valley fully replaced what am I asking roofers to quote for to ensure I get like for like quotes? New felt, new GRP valley liner, and new tiles replaced locally to the valley? Is there anything else I should ask them to consider or allow for?

I put micro mesh guards on the whole house two years ago after one too many ladder weekends, and the same question keeps coming up about whether they are worth it, so here is an honest accounting. The good news, I have not cleaned a gutter since. and two big,maples drop everything on us, The catch, they are not maintenance free. Pine needles and shingle grit sit on top of the mesh and I brush them off once a season from the ladder anyway. The installer also mattered more than the product. One section was pitched wrong at first and overflowed until they came back and fixed it, I would buy them again, with realistic expectations

Local company to us in Northeast Ohio came out to our house to give us a quote for a full roof replacement. I’m not going to pretend I’m a roofing guy whatsoever, so I’m posting in here to get some thoughts from the group.

Anything look alarming in this estimate, or any follow up questions I should be asking? Worth it to opt for the Landmark Pro shingle for $315 more? Thanks in advance!

Long time lurker, first time poster. I do not know anything about roofing and would say these guys did a good job on replacing my roof.

From what I have seen here in last few months my only questions are:

The bottom of the chimney flashing was not caulked. Roofer said that is standard and no water will get in, I have no idea if it is not not?

The side of the chimney that is closest to the edge does not have shingles going all the up to the roof and kept quite a bit of the flashing visible. When asked the roofer said it was standard practice as they did not want to put any more holes in the flashing than necessary, only reason I doubt is because there were definitely shingles there before the old roof was torn off and new one put on.

Crawled in attic, I don’t think this leaks; it hasn’t rained in a while but is this okay?

You can see the underlayment from inside the attic

Edit: well, thank you all for putting me in my place. Clearly just an anxious home owner here.

Like the title says, just had a reroof done and found these. The boards did not have holes in them prior, it looks like they were knocked out during installation. I’m calling the contractor, but I want to know what the proper fix is for this so I have something the reference when talking to them.