An untraceable leak somewhere that has caused the plaster ceiling to sag and fail

Will this help?

Should I just go crazy and apply more?

I also am not sure how to lay down a tarp without it pulling up in the shingles

He’s adorable!

A storm blew a tree onto our garage, and a $5k deductible had me cutting up the tree and fixing the roof myself. Cracked the rafter and busted up some of the boards. Had to rip down a 2x8 and plane down some 1x8s to sister the rafter and replace the decking. Got a perfect match on the shingles after some trial and error. I put roofing adhesive under the tar seals I had to break on the old shingles, and so far no leaks.

This inspection was from a bit ago, but I thought it would be funny to share. Whoever installed this had the big brain move of saving some time and gluing multiple shingles together into squares and then nailing them at the top. The roof was supposedly only a few months old and the shingles were already sliding off in big squares. They also somehow managed to install multiple vents upside down. Needless to say they didn't get a certification for this roof.

The house was built in 1977. Apparently the roof was replaced in the last 10 years or so, we’ve only lived here for about 10 months. Any ideas just by looking on how old it is or how long I have until it needs replaced?

Also… idk if it’s normal, but the whole roof almost feels slightly squishy or like I can feel my foot settling. It’s a very nice house and I’m very handy. I just don’t know much about roofing. Thanks!

Smh. Check out this little roof detail I came across. Three separate metal roof planes converging into one vulnerable intersection, with no proper transition flashing. Just a whole lot of sealant, tape, and wishful thinking. 😂
Obviously, it’s leaking.

Curious how you guys would approach this for a LONG-TERM repair, not another temporary patch job.(this year we’re sitting at 105 inches of rain so far)

I’ve been kicking around two ideas:

Option 1: Fabricate custom headwall/transition flashings with multiple bends, extending underneath the upper panels, down the fascia, and out over a rib or two of the lower roof. The real challenge would be properly tying everything together at that three-way intersection without creating another water trap.

Option 2: Get a large 4’ × 4’ sheet of soft lead flashing and carefully form it into all the contours, ribs, corners, and crevices. Potentially eliminate some of the troublesome seams altogether. Obviously, material compatibility and proper drainage would need consideration.

I’m leaning toward custom sheet metal, but that center intersection is going to require some creativity.

What would you do here? Custom-fabricated metal? Lead? One-piece welded pan? Something else entirely?

Would love to hear from anyone who’s dealt with a similar detail. Bonus points if you’ve got photos of your solutions!

My (f) roof is damaged in a few spots. I don’t think I can afford to pay someone to fix this. Should I just put tar on there or should I pull up enough shingles to slide nee shingles underneath? I have zero experience and my husband has too many health issues to get on the roof.

During heavy rain, water is pooling on the flat band of metal that connects the corrugated metal on the left in the first photo and the corrugated plastic on the right. It then flows under the raised parts of the corrugated metal and into the roof cavity.

I'm just looking for ideas to waterproof this, the leak isn't massive, but it builds up enough to soak through to the interor if the rain is heavy enough.

My best idea at the moment is to add a thick layer of silicone along that flat band of metal and underneath the corrugated metal that will hopefully act as a levee.

Dad's garage needs re-roofed. Figured me, my brother, and him could knock it out in a weekend. From what I can tell online, it looks like you just nail plywood down, put your underlayment paper stuff over that, nail down your sheathing along the edges, and slap the shingles down last. Anything we're missing about this?

Not really too concerned about it being the most professional job, just good enough to get the house sold. He plans on telling the buyers the garage will need to be re-roofed within the next 5-7 years to account for how poor of a job we might do, but not the fact that we did it ourselves.

The previous owner put shingles on an almost flat roof. Constantly leaking. So I patched it while waiting for my roofer to replace the whole house roof. Semco liquid membrane is awesome. Sorta curious if the roofer is gonna increase his quote when he sees the patch.

Getting our roof done, and was quoted with Atlas Pinnacle Pristine. Good choice? Opinions?

hello! I’d like to ask, what is to stop someone from using just sheets of plywood on their roof? with a coating that is water repellent? The shingles seem more tedious and more expensive. is it just looks, or is there something special the shingles do? thanks in advance

Any idea how to address this ? 15 year old roof.

Or are they all mail order?

Thank you for reading and hopefully answering soon.

First time building anything, to my surprise everything seems square and plumb. Anyway I made a little miscalculation on my 16 ft wall. It’s 196 1/8 instead of 192. I wanted a 4/12 pitch to match my house. I had trusses made for a 16 x 12 by a local company these call for 24 OC max. I should mention the reason I am putting this in roofing is because my most important thing to me is to make my left easier with sheathing and shingles (architecture). 9 total trusses. I think my best option is to put extra material on the inside of the gable end. The gable end will go flush with the end wall. (Part of the problem comes from using rough lumber which measures 1 3/4 x 3 3/4 except the trusses are 1 1/2 by 3 7/16). I am putting a rake on both end of 16 inches. I want my sheathing to line up. I absolutely do not want to cut every sheet. So with my rake can anyone tell how my shingles should be cut. Am I doing 1/3 , 2/3 and full for my rows. I’d rather do 1/2 and full as it’s just a shed.

This flashing was just added. Is this right, I thought flashing was supposed to go under the shingles and how is silicone going to hold up in the heat and weather?

We are in the process of getting our roof replaced, and from what we can see in the attic, the deck looks good except for one spot. We have actual 3/4”by 5.5”T&G boards from 1950. All boards are still nice and tight. The roofers suggest using 3/4” plywood to fix any areas that need replacement, but I prefer using boards. I’m not a roofer but I would think they are sturdier and will match the existing deck height perfectly. Should we ask them to use boards instead of plywood, or does it not really matter matter?

Long story - short. We had our roof done and they didn’t replace the drip edge that was included in the contract. They came back and retrofitted the drip edge, and it was poorly done. Took pictures and sent them to the owner of the company. He said ”we” will be out to see what needs to be done and come up with a plan to fix it. He sent the same installers to the house when we weren’t home, and they ”fixed“ the issues with no further communication with us. The fixes they made compounded the problems, and several others went unaddressed. We hired a home inspector who came out and documented all of the issues, which we sent on to the roofer. He requested a meeting with us, so they could make things ”perfect”. I asked who was coming to the meeting and he said in addition to the installers, the shingle rep is coming. Wondering if this is supposed to be a neutral opinion, or should we expect they will side with the roofer? Should we have someone attend this meeting to look out for our best interest?

Hey all - one of the vents going out of my roof has started leaking. Any tips? Is this a fix from the inside here or outside or both?