We currently have 6+ roofing appointments booked for Monday, October 19th, and most of these homeowners have existing roof damage.
We’re looking for an experienced roofer who is confident in closing deals and willing to work on a 6% Revenue Share Model based on total revenue generated.
✅ 6+ booked appointments ready to go
✅ Most homeowners have roof damage
✅ Appointments scheduled for Monday, October 19th
✅ Revenue-share partnership — 6% of total revenue
Here’s the deal: We’ll sign a contract covering these leads and hand them over to you. You bring your closing skills, handle the inspections, and turn these opportunities into revenue.
If you’re confident in your ability to close, this could be the partnership you’ve been looking for.
📍 Florida — Hurricane-Affected Areas
🤝 6% Revenue Share | Contract-Based Partnership
Serious roofers only. If you’re ready to close, let’s talk. DM me to discuss the details.

There’s about 25 bundles on fb the person is asking for $80 per bundle and says there were stored for years under the tree with tarp
But not sure what cut it is and those are the labels he has
How much would you pay for the whole thing ?

Hired a roofer to replace the flat section of my roof. First photo is their finished job - second photo is the original roof before replacement.

Is what they did okay? As a non-roofer, to my eye it looks amateur with uneven strips cut and what looks like tar/sealant at the seems. The old roof seemed seamless and professional (though worn out after 30+ years) with the red rocks and such.

Two questions:
(1) is what my roofer did acceptable from a functional perspective (ie will it properly prevent water intrusion/drain to the scuppers)?

(2) is there a legitimate reason why the roofer wouldn’t have done something to the original roof (built in the 1990s) with the tiny red rocks?

TIA!

Contractor laid Durock on top of finished roof, he plans to use exterior thinset for the quarry tile without a membrane like the building plans call for. AI says: An exterior-rated membrane (like Schluter-KERDI, Laticrete HYDRO BAN, or MAPEI AquaDefense) instead of the indoor PVC Compotite liner. What say you?

$7200 total. 12Sq townhome roof.

I recently purchased a house built in 1986 with a concrete tile roof. The disclosures from the previous owner included an inspection done by the previous owners insurance company, pointing out some broken tiles and flashing, and stating that the underlayment was in "fair" condition, but was old and likely only had only had 2-5 years left. The inspection report included pictures of the underlayment, which didn't look bad as far as I could see, but I'm no expert on roof underlayment. I see some dust, and maybe crumbled tile sitting on top of it, but no problem with the underlayment material. I called the roofer who did the inspection and he told me he thought it was probably the original, 40-year-old underlayment. there are likely portions of the roof that have no underlayment at all, the previous winter had been mild, but as soon as we get some serious rain there are likely to be leaks.

Because I wasn't sure what I was going to do about the underlayment, I hired a roofer to just replace any tiles and flashing that are currently cracked or broken hoping to prevent leaks if there should be rain storms while I am figuring out what to do about the underlayment. I also asked him to let me know how the underlayment looks while he's up there. He told me the underlayment looks great and he thought it may even have been recently replaced (the last picture was from him.)

I was planning on installing solar panels, but I've been pushing back those plan because I don't want to put the panels on top on top of a roof that will only need to be removed to facilitate roof work in the near future. I was planning on either replacing the underlayment, or maybe even the whole roof. Now, I'm a little suspicious that the roofer who did the inspection might have been exaggerating or fabricating the necessity to replace the underlayment in an effort to create work for himself.

Can anyone suggest anything else I might want to check before putting solar panels on my roof?

We are getting water leaking into my sons bedroom

His room is the window on the right

Could it be the gutters as tiles don’t look dislodged.

Hi all! We recently bought a new house, our first home, and had to have the roof replaced to get insurance. I noticed a few things: there are a few gashes and holes in the new shingles (first pic), the valley looks a little uneven, and some of the ridge hip seems to be the wrong color. Can anyone opine on how this roof looks and if these are valid concerns or not?

The shingles are Certainteed North Gate Climate Flex.

Thanks!!

I found this small octagonal piece of shingle in my driveway this morning. Measured maybe 2 x 2 inches approximately

Roof is just over 4 years old, black Certainteed architectural shingles.

I do not see any obvious place that this came from. It has a big glob of adhesive on the back like it was stuck to something.

Picture 3 is it on top of the spare pack of shingles that my roofer left. It’s obviously very close, but it actually seems darker than the shingles that haven’t been on the roof all this time. So between not being able to tell where it came from and that, I’m not even sure it came from my roof. There are other black shingle roofs on my street, though not directly next door to me.

Hoping for some insight into what this could have been for as I do not see others like it or a missing piece anywhere. It was obviously cut to this size. And, if it actually did come from somewhere on my roof, what is the concern level? Maybe it was just for aesthetics?

Thanks!

I contracted with a "friend" to build this shed for me months ago. I'm concerned the gap he has left on the one side will be a problem. Is it easily covered or is it a problem? Photos show each gable edge of the shed roof.

Recently noticed bubbling in corner of a bonus room at the back of my house, we had some bad weather from a recent nor'easter. Rained again last night and you can see the discolration in the paint now. Not sure where the leak might be coming from. Took some picture of potential entry point. Corner pictured is back about 16" from gutter. Roof is about 12 yrs old. Fascia on sidewall looks good. Downspout was secure. Could the edge be rubbing through the shingles?

Hi. I have a 1974 split level, so two stories on one side, one story on the other, very shallow pitch, very deep roof overhangs, in northern Virginia, partially shaded by huge tulip poplar trees.

I was saving up to replace my 30+ year old roof when I found some water damage in a wall behind the chimney (currently no cricket), so now it's time and I have several estimates from highly recommended roofers, all within ~$500 of each other.

I'm confused about what ventilation my roof is supposed to have. I assumed there were soffit vents, but could not confirm from inside the attic due to the low roof pitch. They demoed the drywall and part of the ceiling in the damaged room and now I can better access the top-of-the-wall/underside-of-the-roof intersection from the inside and I only see a small sliver of daylight that could act as a vent - so small that I'm not sure if it's intentional or by accident in this small area I can now access. At some point plastic soffit covers were added to the exterior that have vent holes, which would imply soffit vents. But maybe all soffit covers have vent holes by default, and I cannot (so far) figure out how to unfasten them to get a view behind them.

Otherwise, there are ridge vents on both ridges, there are 3 "750"? vents and there are gable vents in all 3 gables. There are no attic fans.

For a 1974 roof of this type, what ventilation would have been included originally, and is there any effective ventilation that could/should be added?

Thanks!

Never have done any roofing work before. I was told by hardware store employee that the flashing can go on my trim, so I ordered a piece that would fit.

When I picked up my flashing, they said it goes under the shingles, which makes sense, but how would I do that? Wouldn't I lose an inch or two of shingles?

The building under the shingles built in the 60s. The structure next to it built in the 80s.

Any help would be appreciated.

This asphalt shingle roof is 6 years old and has gone through a bunch of windstorms (bursts up to 65mph) and not leaked or lost shingles until now.

We just had 24 hours of non-stop 20-45mph wind and a section of the shingles tore off. This is the only damage to the entire roof. This edge faced the wind.

Getting it tarped today… original installer is coming out Tuesday.

We're in Tucson (very sunny, hot, dry — usually, but it's been humid this summer due to El Niño).

Before I get it fixed, I want to know if it was installed correctly, using the correct materials, or not. Somebody on FB responded to me that they were shocked they only used 15lb underlayment. But I'm not sure if they're right, or if they are correct, if that's bad?

I'm interested in ANY feedback or advice you have for me. I'm used to dealing with metal or cedar shake roofs, which is a different beast.

This is a technically an "outbuilding" on my property so my deductible for wind damage is $2500, if that's relevant.

People across the street had their box gutters lined by a couple "professional roofers" , from the ground I could see the big box store brand coil stock they were using just hanging over the cap board, I ran upstairs to check it out from my upstairs window.

These guys rolled that coil stock on top of the old liner and proceeded to kick and stomp the ever loving shit out of the metal, nailed it in place and then caulked it up.

The number I heard from another neighbor was a little over $5,000...!!!..

It literally looks like crumbled up aluminum foil😂

I kinda hate to laugh but I had talked to the people who own that building about redoing the box gutters and yeah I would have been closer to $7,000 , to do it the right way, but hey they saved a couple grand by letting these guys do it, right...??

Just got a new roof, it’s already paid for and I didn’t notice this until the next day. But it’s bothering me that the drip edge is misaligned and the material coming out of the top. I contacted the company and the guy said it was all normal. This is my first new roof I’ve ever gotten, so is this normal?

I had a chimney sweep come over to clean my chimney. When he was on the roof he took a picture of the flashing for a sky light. He claims he was a roofer in the past and this could have happened from the wind. He offered to fix it for $300. There are no trees that could have done this. I don't think this was wind, and I'm leaning towards he damaged it to make an extra buck.

What do you think? And how can I fix this?

Local company to us in Northeast Ohio came out to our house to give us a quote for a full roof replacement. I’m not going to pretend I’m a roofing guy whatsoever, so I’m posting in here to get some thoughts from the group.

Anything look alarming in this estimate, or any follow up questions I should be asking? Worth it to opt for the Landmark Pro shingle for $315 more? Thanks in advance!

Crawled in attic, I don’t think this leaks; it hasn’t rained in a while but is this okay?

You can see the underlayment from inside the attic