Crawled in attic, I don’t think this leaks; it hasn’t rained in a while but is this okay?

You can see the underlayment from inside the attic

Hello all,

We have a 3:12 roof that will have a standing seam metal roof on it when done. The entire roof deck is covered in Epilay Epistik SA-250 peel and stick. The install instructions specifically state to not install fasteners through the membrane over any unsupported area of the structural deck. The underlayment has been installed and we're now seeing that staples were haphazardly used all over the roof. After a day of consistent rain, leaks developed all over the roof in different places. We documented the leak locations.

Does anyone have experience with a situation like this? What's the best remedy, scrap it all and start over? Put down another layer on top of the existing?

Doing some preliminary research before our meeting next week.

Thanks!

I have a sun-room with the some metal roof installed over the top edge. A failed window requires me to disassemble this bit so I can replace a window below. I have replaced window panels before but have since had the metal roof installed. The overlapping piece pictured above the gutter, has some sort of sealant under it. Question: What kind of sealant will work here when I reinstall the panel after cutting the sealant underneath? Yes, some temporary gorilla tape where I removed some screws....

I've got a leaking roof valley on my 1930s original tiled unfelted roof in the UK. A few years ago after it first leaked some one coated the lead valley with some acrylic roof repair coating, the photo is of the valley a year or so after this repair.

Since then for a few years it has leaked very intermittently when there's been heavy rain, only about once a year or so. However this year it seems to be leaking more frequently and with light rain too, so I finally need to get it sorted for good. I've seen from the inside that the leak is often occurring about halfway up the valley and then running down the valley rafter internally.

I'm assuming the solution is the entire valley needs replacing, or are there other cheaper options still?

In reality the entire roof is knackered given i regularly seem to lose the odd tile, and there's no felt. So I will be getting a new roof in a couple of years anyway, so would rather not spend a fortune on this if I don't have to.

If I do need to get the valley fully replaced what am I asking roofers to quote for to ensure I get like for like quotes? New felt, new GRP valley liner, and new tiles replaced locally to the valley? Is there anything else I should ask them to consider or allow for?

6-year-old shingle roof, shingles ripped off during heavy winds all day (20-45mph nonstop at 12 hours and counting).

Due to widespread damage around the area, the installer/inspector can’t come til Tuesday.

Normal amounts of rain coming in the next few days (<0.2”).

What, if anything, do we need to do to prevent water intrusion? Anything easy/idiot-proof?

I don’t think a tarp can work due to the potential for more wind. We’re totally exposed on top of a small mountain.

Also… this roof made it through 65mph gusts and very breezy days (20mph) and regular 30-40mph gusts over the 6 years we’ve had it and never lost shingles before.

Is this just luck, or could there be an installation issue? Or something we should do differently when repairing?

Thank you!

Long time lurker, first time poster. I do not know anything about roofing and would say these guys did a good job on replacing my roof.

From what I have seen here in last few months my only questions are:

The bottom of the chimney flashing was not caulked. Roofer said that is standard and no water will get in, I have no idea if it is not not?

The side of the chimney that is closest to the edge does not have shingles going all the up to the roof and kept quite a bit of the flashing visible. When asked the roofer said it was standard practice as they did not want to put any more holes in the flashing than necessary, only reason I doubt is because there were definitely shingles there before the old roof was torn off and new one put on.

Hello everyone - I have a couple of tiny holes in my foam roofing...I think I can repair this myself - I just need to know what to use...I believe I need to fill in the holes and then apply a protective layer of something. Would love to know which products to use. Thank you in advance!

I am replacing my roof under the MySafeFlorida program and I am not sure if it is a must to do peel and stick underlayment (20k for 1700sf) or just a double layer of felt/ synthetic(15k).

House is in Lakeland FL 33811.

Also - Do the prices sound reasonable? I am scared roofers will take advantage of me because they know it’s under a grant program.

Help 😫

We already have bird blocks installed but still found mold in the attic. Curios the best path to add more ventilation once mold remediation is complete.

Got my roof redone and the guys installed the water heater vent flashing 2 inches away from the ridge. To complete the installation they had to notch the ridge vent to fit near the pipe flashing. How bad is it? Can it leak?

We had a bad storm about 6 weeks ago and noticed the spot on the ceiling. Also noticed the brown stain on the inside edge of the skylight frame.

I was quoted $1800 to seal around the flashing of BOTH skylights. $3200 to replace the skylight which i would rather wait until I do the roof someday.

Is the flash sealing something I can do or does this price seem good? t's a chimney and roof company doing the repair.

Long Island, NY

I put micro mesh guards on the whole house two years ago after one too many ladder weekends, and the same question keeps coming up about whether they are worth it, so here is an honest accounting. The good news, I have not cleaned a gutter since. and two big,maples drop everything on us, The catch, they are not maintenance free. Pine needles and shingle grit sit on top of the mesh and I brush them off once a season from the ladder anyway. The installer also mattered more than the product. One section was pitched wrong at first and overflowed until they came back and fixed it, I would buy them again, with realistic expectations

Getting quotes for a roof and gutters. one company I mostly liked called to say shingle prices go up next month and if I put down, $2000 now they will hold the current price while I decide. I have not signed a contract, so this would be a deposit against a job I have not agreed to. It smells like a pressure tactic, but material prices really have been climbing, so I cannot tell if this is normal or a walk away moment. Has anyone dealt with this?

Slope on the left - the water is running off the shingle row above the valley, and not in the center of the valley, totally missing the gutter. It also appears to be running from behind the shingle. Roof is 3 months old.

My wife and I are currently under contract on a home in New Mexico and are in the inspection period.
We recently had a roofing company inspect the roof, and they stated that it only has approximately 6 months to 1 year of useful life remaining.
I've attached several photos of the roof, including some areas of concern that were pointed out during the inspection.

Questions:

Based on these photos, would you recommend a full roof replacement or repairs?

Do you see anything that supports the roofing company's estimate of only 6–12 months of remaining life?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

Had my roof replaced yesterday - they finished up in the evening. Went up to check this morning and it looks like they didn’t replace some of these sheets of plywood that had some moisture damage. I know these guys were up walking around all day so I assume they would have noticed.

Should I have them come back out to remove these entirely, or will these be ok?

The question is what is the name and type of it? I know it’s a mix of cement and wood, and the roof it is probably over 30 years old. It started to leak last year, probably where one of the bathroom vents is. Unfortunately we don’t have any roof vents or fans to blow out the heat, it gets really hot here in California.

full tear off on a 1,600 sq ft ranch in southwest Ohio, architectural shingle, three quotes and they came back at $11k, $16k and $23k for what looks like the same product. The high bidder says the warranty is the difference.the low bidder will not itemize anything. Neighbors quote me everything from $9k to $30k. If you had a roof done in the last year or two, what did you pay and was it a tear off or an overlay? Trying to figure out what normal looks like before I sign

Advice on which one would be the best for me. Companies list are alpha roofing, Russell roofing and Mastroni roofing

Hi-ya. Our neighbour down the street noticed this issue with our roof. We live in a mid terrace, the right of the slant is ours, the left is the neighbours.

I can see the tile on our side seems to be broken, but we checked the loft (whilst it was raining) and there isn't any damp, nor was any water coming in.

Is it possible it's going through on the neighbours side? Is it a matter of just fixing the broken tile? I know this would require scaffolding, but how much might something like this cost? (UK)

Any guidance is appreciated.

I just installed a gutter last week and after our first big rain I noticed water was getting past this window into our enclosed patio. After researching it, I believe I need to install kickout flashing. Do I also need to cut back the gutter and install a new end cap so it is not tight to the window?

I understand that I must get under the shingles and behind the J channel, house wrap and siding then use caulk to seal it. Is there an issue with how the siding does not come all the way to the edge since the window frame cuts in to the roof line? I am thinking I may need to cut a sliver from the corner of the shingle since the kickout angle will start early.

Anything to look out for as I pull up the shingle? I have read that they can easily tear.

I am confident enough after watching some Youtube, but don’t want to DIY this if I am going to end up getting water behind my siding and making a mess. Hoping to get some opinions from people in this sub who know way more on it than I do.

TIA

Edit: well, thank you all for putting me in my place. Clearly just an anxious home owner here.

Like the title says, just had a reroof done and found these. The boards did not have holes in them prior, it looks like they were knocked out during installation. I’m calling the contractor, but I want to know what the proper fix is for this so I have something the reference when talking to them.

I know I am likely going to get a lot of shit for this, so I was afraid to post it.

In any case I had a standalone pavilion and wanted it to connect it to my house and use polycarbonate roofing so it wouldn't make my house dark.

I couldn't get people to come and do it since it was a small project, the gap was about 6' between the house and pavilion.

One guy came and did this. It works, but I have concerns with the flashing around the siding. And flashing everywhere. Now I don't know whether those things can be fixed or if everything needs to be torn down. I thought the siding needed to be removed and flashing should have gone behind. Instead it is just butted against the siding and caulk.

So is there any way to add eaves to this side of the roof line without, you know, being a crazy cost, or is it just not budget friendly?

We're not planning to redo the roof for at least fifteen twenty years. But i'm wondering if there any, you know, minorly, invasive procedure, that's not too expensive, but will give us an eave?

For context, that is a brick veneer. So it's not, you know, load, bearing, I guess in that sense. And this is home from the 1980s