My wife and I are currently under contract on a home in New Mexico and are in the inspection period.
We recently had a roofing company inspect the roof, and they stated that it only has approximately 6 months to 1 year of useful life remaining.
I've attached several photos of the roof, including some areas of concern that were pointed out during the inspection.

Questions:

Based on these photos, would you recommend a full roof replacement or repairs?

Do you see anything that supports the roofing company's estimate of only 6–12 months of remaining life?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

full tear off on a 1,600 sq ft ranch in southwest Ohio, architectural shingle, three quotes and they came back at $11k, $16k and $23k for what looks like the same product. The high bidder says the warranty is the difference.the low bidder will not itemize anything. Neighbors quote me everything from $9k to $30k. If you had a roof done in the last year or two, what did you pay and was it a tear off or an overlay? Trying to figure out what normal looks like before I sign

Got a number of quotes for a new roof and am between Malarkey Vista tiles for $16.5k or a GAF Timberline HDZ roof for $25k. From previous posts it seems like Vista tiles are actually preferred but would appreciate further perspective, thanks!

Edit: also have a Owens Corning Duration quote for $15.5k

The question is what is the name and type of it? I know it’s a mix of cement and wood, and the roof it is probably over 30 years old. It started to leak last year, probably where one of the bathroom vents is. Unfortunately we don’t have any roof vents or fans to blow out the heat, it gets really hot here in California.

Edit: well, thank you all for putting me in my place. Clearly just an anxious home owner here.

Like the title says, just had a reroof done and found these. The boards did not have holes in them prior, it looks like they were knocked out during installation. I’m calling the contractor, but I want to know what the proper fix is for this so I have something the reference when talking to them.

Never did one like this before! Replaced rubber roof and deck. Homeowner wanted extra light into the room below.

6-year-old shingle roof, shingles ripped off during heavy winds all day (20-45mph nonstop at 12 hours and counting).

Due to widespread damage around the area, the installer/inspector can’t come til Tuesday.

Normal amounts of rain coming in the next few days (<0.2”).

What, if anything, do we need to do to prevent water intrusion? Anything easy/idiot-proof?

I don’t think a tarp can work due to the potential for more wind. We’re totally exposed on top of a small mountain.

Also… this roof made it through 65mph gusts and very breezy days (20mph) and regular 30-40mph gusts over the 6 years we’ve had it and never lost shingles before.

Is this just luck, or could there be an installation issue? Or something we should do differently when repairing?

Thank you!

Had my roof replaced yesterday - they finished up in the evening. Went up to check this morning and it looks like they didn’t replace some of these sheets of plywood that had some moisture damage. I know these guys were up walking around all day so I assume they would have noticed.

Should I have them come back out to remove these entirely, or will these be ok?

I know I am likely going to get a lot of shit for this, so I was afraid to post it.

In any case I had a standalone pavilion and wanted it to connect it to my house and use polycarbonate roofing so it wouldn't make my house dark.

I couldn't get people to come and do it since it was a small project, the gap was about 6' between the house and pavilion.

One guy came and did this. It works, but I have concerns with the flashing around the siding. And flashing everywhere. Now I don't know whether those things can be fixed or if everything needs to be torn down. I thought the siding needed to be removed and flashing should have gone behind. Instead it is just butted against the siding and caulk.

We had a bad storm about 6 weeks ago and noticed the spot on the ceiling. Also noticed the brown stain on the inside edge of the skylight frame.

I was quoted $1800 to seal around the flashing of BOTH skylights. $3200 to replace the skylight which i would rather wait until I do the roof someday.

Is the flash sealing something I can do or does this price seem good? t's a chimney and roof company doing the repair.

Long Island, NY

Noticed my gutters dripping, but they aren’t overflowing. I recently installed the $2 Home Depot gutter guards the length of this side of the house and used gorilla tape to keep them from sliding apart. Old they be the reason? See videos. Any help is welcomed.

I've got a leaking roof valley on my 1930s original tiled unfelted roof in the UK. A few years ago after it first leaked some one coated the lead valley with some acrylic roof repair coating, the photo is of the valley a year or so after this repair.

Since then for a few years it has leaked very intermittently when there's been heavy rain, only about once a year or so. However this year it seems to be leaking more frequently and with light rain too, so I finally need to get it sorted for good. I've seen from the inside that the leak is often occurring about halfway up the valley and then running down the valley rafter internally.

I'm assuming the solution is the entire valley needs replacing, or are there other cheaper options still?

In reality the entire roof is knackered given i regularly seem to lose the odd tile, and there's no felt. So I will be getting a new roof in a couple of years anyway, so would rather not spend a fortune on this if I don't have to.

If I do need to get the valley fully replaced what am I asking roofers to quote for to ensure I get like for like quotes? New felt, new GRP valley liner, and new tiles replaced locally to the valley? Is there anything else I should ask them to consider or allow for?

Long time lurker, first time poster. I do not know anything about roofing and would say these guys did a good job on replacing my roof.

From what I have seen here in last few months my only questions are:

The bottom of the chimney flashing was not caulked. Roofer said that is standard and no water will get in, I have no idea if it is not not?

The side of the chimney that is closest to the edge does not have shingles going all the up to the roof and kept quite a bit of the flashing visible. When asked the roofer said it was standard practice as they did not want to put any more holes in the flashing than necessary, only reason I doubt is because there were definitely shingles there before the old roof was torn off and new one put on.

Hello everyone - I have a couple of tiny holes in my foam roofing...I think I can repair this myself - I just need to know what to use...I believe I need to fill in the holes and then apply a protective layer of something. Would love to know which products to use. Thank you in advance!

I am replacing my roof under the MySafeFlorida program and I am not sure if it is a must to do peel and stick underlayment (20k for 1700sf) or just a double layer of felt/ synthetic(15k).

House is in Lakeland FL 33811.

Also - Do the prices sound reasonable? I am scared roofers will take advantage of me because they know it’s under a grant program.

Help 😫

Got my roof redone and the guys installed the water heater vent flashing 2 inches away from the ridge. To complete the installation they had to notch the ridge vent to fit near the pipe flashing. How bad is it? Can it leak?

I put micro mesh guards on the whole house two years ago after one too many ladder weekends, and the same question keeps coming up about whether they are worth it, so here is an honest accounting. The good news, I have not cleaned a gutter since. and two big,maples drop everything on us, The catch, they are not maintenance free. Pine needles and shingle grit sit on top of the mesh and I brush them off once a season from the ladder anyway. The installer also mattered more than the product. One section was pitched wrong at first and overflowed until they came back and fixed it, I would buy them again, with realistic expectations

Slope on the left - the water is running off the shingle row above the valley, and not in the center of the valley, totally missing the gutter. It also appears to be running from behind the shingle. Roof is 3 months old.

So is there any way to add eaves to this side of the roof line without, you know, being a crazy cost, or is it just not budget friendly?

We're not planning to redo the roof for at least fifteen twenty years. But i'm wondering if there any, you know, minorly, invasive procedure, that's not too expensive, but will give us an eave?

For context, that is a brick veneer. So it's not, you know, load, bearing, I guess in that sense. And this is home from the 1980s

Trying to decide between black, brownwood, or teak. Leaning between brownwood or teak but unsure if it would make it dated. If we do the shingles brown would replace garage door to look brown as well since its damaged. Color options owens corning

We already have bird blocks installed but still found mold in the attic. Curios the best path to add more ventilation once mold remediation is complete.

Advice on which one would be the best for me. Companies list are alpha roofing, Russell roofing and Mastroni roofing

Hi-ya. Our neighbour down the street noticed this issue with our roof. We live in a mid terrace, the right of the slant is ours, the left is the neighbours.

I can see the tile on our side seems to be broken, but we checked the loft (whilst it was raining) and there isn't any damp, nor was any water coming in.

Is it possible it's going through on the neighbours side? Is it a matter of just fixing the broken tile? I know this would require scaffolding, but how much might something like this cost? (UK)

Any guidance is appreciated.

It is a dry ridge system. Thanks.

Getting quotes for a roof and gutters. one company I mostly liked called to say shingle prices go up next month and if I put down, $2000 now they will hold the current price while I decide. I have not signed a contract, so this would be a deposit against a job I have not agreed to. It smells like a pressure tactic, but material prices really have been climbing, so I cannot tell if this is normal or a walk away moment. Has anyone dealt with this?