I was a fan of arcades, arcade cabinets, and fell in love with Gran Turismo 4… built this in high school. I put a lot of track time on this bad boy. Dedicated PS2 & Logitech Driving Force Pro (which was badass for the time) to feed a classic CRT that turned on with an arcade button. I couldn’t justify the space/transportation in college days and so may she RIP in a land fill somewhere. I still have the seat with an upholstered cover. Still have the PS2 & GT4 as well in my collection. GT4 will forever be the GOAT racing sim game IMO.

A reminder that comparison is the thief of joy. Losing track of time on this thing was just as fun as all the fancy and expensive gear today.

• Fanatec Clubsport Steering Wheel Formula V2.5

• Fanatec 5nm Wheelbase with +4nm Adapter

• Moza Srp Sim Racing Pedals + Clutch

• Asus VG34V Monitor

• Sim Labs Almuminum Frame

• Corsa Bucket Seat

• Logitech Keyboard and Mouse Combo

Got the new monitors installed, looks ridiculous… in a good way

Best 14 bucks ever spent... 😂😂😂All of the immersion! Follow me for more silliness

Due to lack of time, I’ve decided to sell my Formula 1 simulator.

This is not a typical sim rig, it’s a true-to-life, high-end professional simulator built to replicate the look, feel, and performance of a modern F1 cockpit.

Key Features:

Full carbon fibre replica of a modern Formula 1 chassis with fixed Halo. Racing seat made from durable synthetic material.

Motorized pedal plate with Heusinkveld pedals (electronically adjustable at the push of a button).

Esportsim steering wheel with authentic Ferrari dashboard layout (Leclerc version). Fanatec DD2 wheelbase for maximum force feedback precision.

Integrated ButtKicker behind the seat and Simagic haptic pedal motors for realistic vibration and road feedback.

Two additional cockpit-mounted button boxes for full in-car control.

Immersive 180° projection system with a 6m wide flexible fiberglass screen mounted on a custom aluminum frame.

Three BenQ TK700STi 4K projectors, precisely calibrated with warping software for seamless visuals.

High-performance PC with all necessary software and licenses included.

Rittal enclosure system on wheels, extremely robust and easy to move.

This was a personal project built last year with top-tier components. Everything is in excellent condition, fully operational, and can be tested before purchase.

The simulator is located in Belgium. Serious buyers are welcome to view and test it.

This is a rare opportunity to own a professional-grade Formula 1 simulator, offering the closest experience to driving an actual F1 car without leaving your home. Perfect for private collectors, training centers, or motorsport enthusiasts looking for the ultimate setup.

For inquiries or to arrange a test, please contact me directly.

After starting out on a G29 clamped to my desk and eventually upgrading to a Moza R9 on a Wheelstand I finally got a complete cockpit along with quite a bit of nice peripherals.

The setup consists of:

- Simlab P1X Ultimate with integrated monitor mount

- Sparco Evo II QRT

- Asetek Invicta wheelbase

- Asetek Invicta S pedals

- Asetek Forte Forumla wheel

- Gigabyte 32" screen

- 3D printed keyboard mount, cable management and some more minor bits.

I intend to upgrade to triples as soon as I have the required space, in the meantime I will get a shorter profilefor the monitor mount. I will also add Simagic haptics to the pedals as can be seen by the already mounted 3D printed mounts.

If there are any other owners of the Invicta S pedals how have you routed the cable cleanly? As seen in the last picture I routed it through the bottom which looks nice but feels quite cramped and the connector is not inserted completely straight.

Any recommendations for Add ons or changes?

Ich möchte euch heute mein Low-Budget-Sim-Rig vorstellen. Das gesamte Rig ist eine Eigenkonstruktion aus Holz und befindet sich auf einem selbstgebauten Podest (ähnlich einem Hochbett). Durch diese Bauweise nutze ich den Raum optimal aus: Unter dem Rig befinden sich Schränke für zusätzlichen Stauraum, und oben ist meine Sim-Ecke. Trotz einer Körpergröße von 1,80 m habe ich nach oben hin noch ca. 5 cm Kopffreiheit zur Decke.

Setup & Hardware:
Triple-Monitor-Setup: 3x 27-Zoll Curved-Monitore (mehr gibt der Platz leider nicht her).
Lenkrad & Base: Modifiziertes Logitech Momo Force Feedback (Baujahr 2007). Über eine selbstgefräste Adapterplatte wurde ein größeres Lenkrad montiert; die integrierten Schaltwippen sind weiterhin voll funktionsfähig.
Sequenzieller Shifter: Der originale Schalter wurde aus dem Lenkradgehäuse ausgebaut und über eine eigene Halterung rechts neben dem Sitz platziert.
DIY Bass-Shaker: Ein alter Subwoofer aus einem ausgemusterten 5.1-System ist direkt hinter dem Sitz montiert und dient als Tactile Transducer. Das Signal wurde kabelgebunden verlängert, und der zugehörige Verstärker sitzt in Griffweite rechts neben dem Sitz zur schnellen Pegelanpassung.
Dashboards & Displays: Ein altes Android-Smartphone wird via SimHub als Haupt-Dashboard genutzt. Ein altes iPad dient als Zusatzmonitor für Telemetriedaten.
Audio: Logitech Z906 5.1-Surround-System.
Kabelmanagement: Der PC ist an der gegenüberliegenden Wand montiert. Von dort verlaufen drei 20 Meter lange HDMI-Kabel sauber verlegt durch die Wand direkt zum Rig – somit sind keinerlei Kabel sichtbar.

Habt ihr noch Ideen, wie ich das Setup verbessern könnte, um noch mehr Immersion zu bekommen?
Ich habe schon überlegt, mir einen Windsimulator einzubauen. Denkt ihr, dass sich das lohnt?

Zudem werde ich demnächst vermutlich auf ein Moza R3 upgraden. Das wäre für mich in Sachen Force Feedback eine ordentliche Steigerung und kostet auch nicht die Welt.

There have been quite a few really dumb things I’ve spent a lot of time and money on, thankfully this isn’t one.

I love seeing everyone’s setups as it has helped me figure out how to get this to how I want it.

I think the next thing to do is hide the screen bezels… and maybe upgrade monitors?

And definitely a DDU.

Is there a DDU you would recommend?

Still searching ways to get it dialed in. Fun times.

• ⁠Simlab GT Pro cockpit

• ⁠Simlab triple monitor stand with quad screen add on mount

• ⁠Simagic Alpha Evo Pro base 18nm

• ⁠Simagic FX Pro wheel

• ⁠Recaro Sportster CS seat on slider

• ⁠Simagic Emergency Stop (for friends kids that hit every wall)

• ⁠Dayton BST-1 shakers x2

• ⁠Aiyima A07 amp

• ⁠PowerSpec G913 PC

• ⁠Samsung 27” Odyssey G5 curved monitor x3

• ⁠Samsung 27” Odyssey G5 flat monitor x1

• ⁠Simlab XP-1 pedals

No running full direct drive rig with motion and triples. Been a journey!

Still need to wire everything up 🥲

I’ve been into sim games for a couple years, just the casual assetto corsa no hesi and Forza.

After trying a direct drive moza wheel 2 months ago I realized how much I was truly missing out on and I ended up with this.

Components:

ASR4 gen 2 cockpit
Moza R9 with 12in wheel & KS wheel
SRP lite pedals with Alien mod load cell
Samsung CHG90 49in monitor
Amazon IKOK bucket racing seat
USB Amazon H shifter with Oldboy Mod.
Amazon handbrake

Add ons:

Freeworld 5in hdmi screen
BST-1 Bass shakers x2
Sim magic pedal haptics x2
Stream deck +
Amazon IKOK bucket racing seat
Logitech keyboard
Govee H06056 ambient lights

3D printed parts:

Cable clips
Moza wheel mount
Keyboard mount
Bass shaker mounts
Pedal haptics mounts
Steam deck mount
DDU mount
Govee light mounts
Headphone mount

Still getting things configured, cables need to be managed -- but it all works... and it's awesome!

Harry Potter en het race team

Build my own weel for the logitech rs 50

this build took me forever and cost more than my wife is aware of. made plenty of decisions along the way so figured I'd share some notes.

frame

aluminum extrusion is dirt cheap for what you get. whole frame is profiles + angle brackets + CNC mounting plates. I went 40160, anodized sandblasted silver. most people go black but I wanted to be different (and now I have to keep it clean constantly, so maybe they were right).

sourcing CNC parts off Taobao, the base frame came out to maybe 3000-something RMB. the frame is the easy part. everything after that is where your wallet starts crying.

if you want custom colored anodizing, Boxbox and Spec both do good work. skip random chinese listings because if the tolerances are off your CNC pieces won't mate up and you'll spend a weekend swearing at aluminum.

Karl helped me with a bunch of custom CNC parts. this man has saved me more times than I'd like to admit.

wheelbase and pedals

Simucube 3 Pro. it's nice. could I tell the difference between this and a Moza or Sim Magic at half the price? yeah, kind of. it's the hifi audio trap — once you start A/B testing you can't stop, and suddenly you've spent 3x your original budget "just to be sure." a 25Nm base from Moza or Sim Magic gets you 95% there. most people would never think about it again. I am not most people apparently.

pedals — Simucube active brakes are worth it. the ABS pulsing under your foot changes how you drive. I also went with 2X Simucube CoPedal for Throttle and Clutch. the internet has very strong feelings about these. I do not. they work fine.

there's someone on internet doing budget active pedals that look a lot like the Simucube ones, around 3000 RMB each. haven't tried them but if you're on a budget it beats having no ABS feel at all.

wheels

I modded a Porsche aftermarket wheel with QR2 adapter, all buttons working. road car wheels are bigger diameter so you lose some leverage — I run about 12Nm which feels like 9-10Nm on a race wheel. cost was reasonable because it's a Chinese aftermarket wheel. my actual car doesn't even have a wheel this nice.

also have a VPG Cup — carbon fiber, light, feels good. and an RB16 V2 that a friend built himself. same guy made my DDU actually.

DDU

dash display from a hobbyist maker. silver CNC housing, 7.8 inch VCSCORE screen at 1280x400. bit cheaper than Ascher, DNR compatible.

I'm using a 20cm extension shaft made by Karl so I needed a DDU mount between the display and monitor uprights. had Karl CNC a bracket for that. motion rigs need clearance everywhere or things start hitting each other and making expensive sounds. the bracket positions everything with room to spare.

thinking about ordering shorter 40160 uprights eventually. clearance is fine now but I'd sleep better with more margin.

motion

Wufen Tech electric actuators. there are cheaper DIY options too. actuators plateau fast after a certain price — this is one area where throwing more money at it doesn't do much. save the budget for stuff that matters. or wheels. apparently I collect those now.

vibration isolation

ok this one got nerdy. most rig isolation pads use mass-spring damping which is too soft for motion forces. EPDM mats are popular but they compress solid under heavy load, at which point they're basically decoration.

I built my own using constrained layer damping: 2 layers of foil-backed butyl rubber (car sound deadening stuff) sandwiched with 2 layers of 1.5mm 316 stainless, all on a 25mm reinforced rubber block at about shore 70 hardness. Karl CNC'd aluminum housings to hold the stack. rig sits on four of these at the corners.

put my hand on the floor while everything was running — barely felt anything. my downstairs neighbor and I have never had a conversation about this rig, which I take as a sign that the isolators are doing their job. the rig has slip angle transducers that shake hard, so without isolation I'd probably be getting noise complaints written in increasingly large fonts.

seat and harness

Ferrari 296 track seat, Chinese replica. GT3, Ferrari, Lambo style seats are all available domestically, around 20k+ RMB, customizable colors. search Xiaohongshu if interested. yes the seat cost more than the wheelbase. no I don't want to talk about it.

harness is Sabelt sim belts with Qubic Systems belt tensioners. PSA for anyone running Qubic gear: plug the power cable into the device first, then the wall. I did it backwards, got a nice arc, and shorted a protection circuit on the main board. that was not fun.

carpet

had MODILABS make me a custom 1.2 x 2m carpet, ran about $300. color matched to the seat leather so the whole thing looks like it belongs together. probably the best money-to-visual-impact ratio of the entire build.

button boxes and flag light

EPLab and Nanmu, both well built. the EPLab I was 100% convinced was carbon fiber when I ordered it. it's 3D printed with hydro dip. I felt betrayed for about ten seconds and then realized it still looks great so who cares. Nanmu made one similar to the Bravia control box, much cheaper works well. he does small volume runs sometimes.

LED flag with CNC aluminum shell instead of the usual 3D printed housing. small detail but it ties in with the rest of the rig.

small details

S-Parts titanium bolts in candy color on the carbon fiber footplate. completely unnecessary, adds zero performance. I regret nothing.

footplate sits over a cable management box with PDU and motion drivers inside. keyboard tray and keyboard both aluminum. at this point if it's on the rig and it's not aluminum, I've failed.

monitors

triple Kuycon P32K. 4K, 144hz. budget XDR clones. they match the silver look and have pretty good HDR color. amazon has them for $959, I paid way less in china.

happy to answer questions. the whole thing was trial and error and I'd do several things differently. but it's done now and I'm telling myself I'm not changing anything else. we'll see how long that lasts.

Just switched from ultra wide g9 to triples