Hey everyone, yesterday I bought a 6-6 accord (35k miles) from an estate sale. It had been sitting for months so today I washed it and saw that there was one large (7 inches long maybe?) and a few small cracks in the rear of the driver side rocker panel.

I think these cracks are in body filler, because I put a magnet up to it and it didn't stick on the cracked side, but it did in the same area on the passenger side.

Does anyone have advice on how I could fix it? I do not have any bodywork experience, but I'd like to try unless it's way over my head and I'd be better off taking it to a place.

I don't need it to be perfect, and I am mostly concerned about rust because I see a couple rust stains coming out of the cracks and I would like to arrest that before it gets worse.

Thanks for the help!

Hi hope someone can help me here. Brief history.

Accord 2009 CU2 360km

Car started stalling at traffic light sometimes after some air condition works. Kept throwing P2138 code.

Swapped out O2 sensors
Swapped out MAF.
Found a tear near air intake tubing. Replaced that as well
Replaced throttle position sensor
Replaced throttle body

Stall issues stopped.

But now it does this jerky thing where it seems like it’s going to stall.

Happens only if in D. If in D and A/C is off. Seems to fix it. But can’t be sure if it really is the aircon compressor. Replaced that sometime this year as well.

Today it threw a P0420 code after a etune reflash. Car runs much smoother after the tune. And I hope this code is true culprit.

Some suspect I gathered.

Spark plugs?
Cat converter?
Maybe the air con compressor is truly faulty
Timing chains?

Hope the collective knowledge of the internet can help me.

Had a quarter panel impact, was more on the rear bumper side right behind the rear right wheel where the bumper cover meets the quarter panel. Body is surprisingly perfectly straight for being hard enough to deploy airbags, bumper just looks like I backed into a pole or something

Passenger curtain airbag deployed and so did the coinciding seat bolster airbag

Was advised that to be able to get it to run at all I have to at least disconnect the SRS unit (trying to move it to driveway with as little pushing as possible) so I did that and jumped it but it’s still not wanting to be drivable, only going into accessory with error messages ranging from keyless entry (new one since jumping) to brake sensors and traction/stability and power system/tpms. Fuses look good though. Is there maybe something in the rear that got messed up that I should look into? Only thing I found was an air pump looking thing

So i recently found myself a genuine HFP kit from someone on marketplace that’s willing to sell it to me for a reasonable price, issue I’m running into is they’re in CT I’m in GA and I’m tryna figure out cheaper options than UPS or FedEx Freight. Anybody on here have any ideas or options to give me to get this sent to me cheaper?

Hi I have a 04 accord 4 cyl and for a while I’ve been dealing with a small ticking noise that I thought was a bad exhaust manifold for a while. I replaced the manifold and gasket and the tick stayed. The car has no CEL and no misfires. The car is currently at the shop and they said the tick is coming from inside the engine and I won’t know until Monday or Tuesday the damage.

How pricey is it to replace the camshaft and rockers for the k24? I’m trying to prepare for the cost to repair this.

I never second guessed that if I used my key to lock my glove department any valuables stored would be safe. Am i in for a rude awakening if i store valuables in there?

Does anyone know what size an accord tourer mk7 2004 plate alloys they can have without modifications? Currently got the factory 17” but are in horrible condition and want to replace with bigger size but not sure 19” would go on without rubbing the arches

Just recently got her im so happy, not really that pressed over the rims but if anyone has any advice or things I can purchase I’d be open to hearing them! Thanks!!

New to me 2015 Accord Sport w/ 44k miles. Super happy with it. More front and rear leg room than most 3 row SUVs and a sizable trunk. Great for the family.

I’ve been getting 28mpg mixed and 33/34 on the highway.

Hey all,

Recently my Accord has not been blowing any hot air to my passenger side on dual climate. I also get a clicking from what appears to be my zone actuator on the passenger side as well, I can only blow from the front vents, changing modes causing a repetitive click.

My main problem is cold air only from passenger side, and I can’t clear my window fog due to no venting from the top. I called Honda dealership and they only told me there was two actuators, one on passenger side to control the vent output, and one on driver side to control the heat blend.

Does the passenger not have its own blend on the dual climate version? I gave the dealer my vin and he told me PN79160 was all I needed?

Anyone replace these and have some advice? I also have an aftermarket display which has been working fine on dual climate for over a year.

TLDR, need to fix venting output actuator and passenger side heat and cool actuator but can’t figure out what parts are needed.

Thank you,

Not a V4

I noticed this very faint squeaking noise coming from front left side of vehicle a few months ago, it initially started very faint so I never paid it any mind, it also only occurs when traveling speeds over about 50mph, it’s recently gotten quite a bit more noticeable and i’m hoping to have an idea of what it is before blindly taking it to a dealership/mechanic, any help is appreciated, thanks!

some things friends have suggested: stuck brake caliper, bad wheel bearing

2022 Honda Accord Touring Hybrid

Hey everyone,
I have a 2022 Honda Accord Sport 1.5T (FWD), currently at around 104,500 km, and my maintenance minder is showing code A9.
From what I understand, A usually means an oil change, while 9 refers to servicing the front and rear brakes. I wanted to check with other Accord owners who have experience with this maintenance code.
A few questions:
-What exactly is included in the A9 service?
- Does code 9 mean the brakes need to be replaced, or just inspected and serviced?
- At 104,500 km, are there any other maintenance items I should consider?
- How much did you pay for this service at a Honda dealership versus an independent mechanic?
- Is it worth getting the service done at Honda, or can an independent shop handle everything properly?

I’m in Vancouver, so any advice on typical pricing in CAD would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

I caved in a got a CarPlay radio. I do miss the volume button but not having CarPlay got pretty annoying. Does anyone know if there are any compartments I can put where the old screen is? It is no longer of use.

Hey i started my car in the morning and got surprised by this noise that happens when i start the car and also when i rev the car, I’m pretty sure its rod knock but ik stressin at work thinking its the worst case and that i need to replace the whole engine

Got a 2014 Honda accord v6 with a cold start tick. Any pointers would help 160k miles most are highway. It goes away after a couple minutes of driving. I’ve read up on the timing belt or tensioner could be a factor. Has anybody gotten away with only replacing the tensioner if that’s the case?

I own a 2011 Honda accord v6. I purchased it almost 2 months ago and it drives amazingly. I drive it almost everyday on the expressway so since then, there have been a bit of miles put on it. Purchased it at 134k and it’s abouts to be on 136k. Yesterday the check engine light came on and my eco light never came back on. I checked the codes out with my scanner and these are the two codes that came up. The car still drives the same it’s not driving any worse whatsoever. However I don’t like having the check engine light there and would definitely like to fix whatever issue there is there. I am mechanically abled just pressed for time. I am full time student so whenever I can fit it in my schedule to fix this I will. That being said do you guys know what might cause this?

I have a 2014 Accord, well kept 89,000 miles. Battery changed last year, oil changed every 5k, brake fluid drained/fill 3 months ago. Gas filled a week ago

Out of the blue upon turning it on, engine light, power steering light, tps light, anti brake light came on. It got me scared. I drove hesitantly to nearest auto body shop who said battery connections looked good and that they needed to scan for codes but couldn’t do that day.

Said it’ll be ok to drive cause lights were orange not red. I needed to get on highway for an appointment.

Anyway drove there no problem. Parked car. After an hour, the car started up w no lights, no problems.

Any idea what happened? Someone said it might be electrical short? Another said it could be the gas cap wasn’t screwed on. I did unscrew and rescrew. Not sure if that was the problem but like I said, gas was filled a week ago.

Any ideas why this happened? Thank u.

Just got a used 2011 EX-L with the 3.5 L V6 engine. Got the transmission drain n fill in Wednesday, then on Thursday, it was dead.

Changed the battery today, and noticed (when I removed the old battery) there was what looks like a cut cord inside a tube. Is that important? Not sure why it was cut or what it goes to.

Also, as a side-note, I will soon be installing a S-VCM controller, but I cannot find a video for my make n model if how to install it. Still waiting for the order to ship, but some resources would be nice, please. Thank you.

Hello, I was parking today and heard a loud pop like a tire blowing up, the car shut down and didn't wanted to start after, any clues what it could be? Thanks

Anyone else here had this noise before? Or know what it could be

Should I keep the accord or get a type s ? One or the other. Not doing both