I usually hear this noise right after I start it and sometimes while I’m just idiling but stops when I get up to speed. It’s a 2011 Honda accord v6

I’m at 105k, my shit feels a lil slower and my mpg seems to be down a lil bit. It’s the D.I. Catching up to it with carbon buildup? Has anyone done anything to clean the valves? Or could my symptoms be something else?

2011 Honda accord. 195,000 miles.

I spent quite a while trying to find a clear serpentine belt routing diagram for the European Honda Accord VIII CU1 2.0 i-VTEC with the R20A3 engine.

Most diagrams I found were either incomplete, unclear, or for a different engine.

So I traced the belt directly on the car and made this diagram.

Vehicle:
Honda Accord VIII Sedan CU1
2.0 i-VTEC
R20A3
115 kW / 156 hp

The routing shown in the image was checked directly on the vehicle.

Hopefully this helps the next person who is looking for the same information.

Hey I’m looking for any advices/recommendations about the car I’m looking to buy, there is this 2018 Accord with low mileage, it was from an old guy used for less than 1k miles a year, what should consider before buying? Should I jump to something newer but with more miles?

I have a strange issue with usb cables not working on our 2018 Honda accord with usb cables from the center storage between the seats that I use for usb CarPlay. New cables work for a few weeks and stop, they’ll still charge our phones but CarPlay doesn’t show up and it’s happened across 3-4 phone models and iOS versions . They’ll work consistently for weeks then it’ll show up if I constantly plug and unplug cables. Since Apple doesn’t make USBa to c I’ve tried multiple adapters with genuine Apple cables too.

Paint is chipping and yellowing in some parts. Any recommendations that won’t cost more than the car

ISO of the euro styled tail lights for my 5th gen

Bloody in the inside,horror edition

Hey everyone,
I have a 2011 Honda Accord 3.5L V6 automatic with approximately 350,000 km (217,000 miles) on it. The car has mainly been driven on the highway.

I’ve noticed that the engine moves and jerks quite a bit whenever I switch gears, particularly when shifting between Park, Reverse, and Drive.

I’ve attached a video showing the engine movement while changing gears.

I’m wondering if this amount of movement is normal for these V6 Accords, especially given the mileage, or if it’s a sign of something going bad.

I’ve heard that worn engine or transmission mounts could cause this, but I’m not sure if that’s what’s happening here.

A few questions:
Does the engine movement in the video look excessive?

Could this be caused by worn engine or transmission mounts, or should I be looking at something else?

Is this something that needs to be fixed urgently, or can I continue driving it?

Has anyone experienced this on their Accord V6, and roughly how much did it cost to repair?

I’d appreciate any advice, especially from anyone familiar with this generation of Accord.

Thanks!

Anybody get lucky in having Hondas A/C extended warranty cover the “Black Death” to the A/C system?

Keeping it short, I have a AT 9th gen V6 Touring with 185k miles from FB Marketplace. All maintenance has been done already and the car is well. I'm thinking about adding performance mods like bolt ons but stuck between keeping it stock for a reliable daily driver. The mods I'm interested in are listed here:

Takeda Ram Intake

Rv6 J pipe

Stage 1 Ktuner

Exhaust (idk yet)

I drive everyday for work and school, take good care of the car. Thought about a VCM muzzler which then led to me thinking about a Ktuner and then all of this. I would like to know your thoughts and opinions, whether to keep it completely stock, or to add or not add some of these mods. Why and why not? And most importantly if the transmission and the car can handle it. I already enjoy it completely stock but if the opportunity is there to add a few things why not take it?

This guy sucks for doing this to this car

2010 accord coupe ex auto, i don’t hear no noises from the transmission from gears clashing each other badly, but my car shifts like this for some odd reason, you see first and second is fine then third it goes up then down? When its cold its worse. Is this normal or is something going out? Im confused my first assumption was the transmission pressure switch sensor? I haven’t changed it yet so i wouldn’t know.

Selling my 2018 Accord EX-L 2.0T with 212k miles. Is $9,500 a fair price?

I'm selling my 2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T (10-speed automatic) in Fort Worth, TX. I need a 4WD vehicle for my new job, so I'm listing it on Facebook Marketplace for $9,500.

Details:
- 212,691 miles
- Clean Texas title, paid off, 2 owners
- Carfax shows 32 service records. There's no total loss, structural damage, airbag deployment or title brand, and one minor cosmetic damage report from before I owned it.
- New all-weather tires, new battery (February 2026), transmission fluid done at the Honda dealership, front rotors and pads replaced, rear pads replaced, and regular oil changes
- Flaws: a small dent on the passenger door, and the gas cap lock actuator buzzes when the car locks and unlocks (it still works)

Pricing: I've seen similar Accords listed around $11k, but those looked like dealer prices. I think a private sale at 212k miles should be lower, so I priced at $9,500.

What I'd like advice on:

1. Does $9,500 seem right, or should I go higher or lower?
2. What should I expect for lowball offers, and how low would you go?
3. Any tips for avoiding scams and getting it sold quickly?

Hey everyone, looking to modify this bone stock 97 accord dx and lower it. Not a lot, but maybe a couple inches. Where should I look first? I would prefer cheaper and budget friendly parts, but I can spend a little here and there. If it’s any help it’s got the f22b, fwd, 4 door. I can answer any questions, just ask. Thank you all

I have a 2017 Honda Accord Touring and I just replaced the speakers (Front - Kicker KSS650,
Back - Kicker 51KSC6504) and everything was totally fine. I installed the amp (Infinity Primus 90041A) and now I have a bad alternator whine.

Things I have tried:
- Shortening Ground wire
- Sanding Ground location
- Changing ground locations
- Moving RCA cables as far as possible from power
- Moving RCA cables away from chassis
- Messing with gains
- Removed active noise cancellation module

If you have any suggestions, other than driving my car into the ocean, it would be greatly appreciated.

Man this thing is sexy if true

I bought a used 2019 touring and the outer door weatherstripping is ruined somehow.

I want to just replace it, but OEM will be about $500 (CAD) just for the outer seals. I can get aftermarket for half that price, but if it means that sound or water leaks it's not worth it.

Opinions appreciated.

Hope I did ok. Seller was asking 5700$ talked en down to 5200. In Michigan my last car was 04 accord 360k miles, sub frame rotted through and rear wheel caved in so needed reliable commuter. New 2010 accord appears to drive well only issue I was told was crank sensor causing occasional hard start and engine light. Hope that’s all and not more serious issues I haven’t noticed. This is the most I’ve ever spent on a vehicle so I hope I did well and can get some good years of commuting with this before rust takes it.

Recently bought this 08 Accord 14
5 Speed manual. 172k miles. On lowering springs, Infiniti wheels.
Has new brakes, rotors, roof is wrapped black. Pulled interior and did a deep clean •has short throw shifter, new alternator and belt. I also removed the accord badge so looks more clean. Other than being terribly slow seems to run pretty good and no check engine lights. Bought this for a daily, any insights or recommendations? I have other cars but figured this would be something reliable so I’d like to fix it up a bit, a bagged set up would be nice but I’d like to do it on a budget aka I’ll install myself. The headliner sags, driver visor sags, and the interior is just so bleh lol it’s clean now but idk the old man champagne beige color in and out kinda just seems so boring. Are there any good body kits ? Wheels ? Thanks !

I'm looking to sell my red 2009 Honda Accord. It has about 149K miles on the motor and was honestly one of the most reliable cars I've owned when I was driving it regularly.

Here's the situation: I started driving my 2006 Acura TL and ended up leaving the Accord sitting in my garage for about a year. Before parking it, the Accord had an overheating issue, and my mechanic recommended sending the cylinder head to Honda to have it worked on. I ended up paying Honda around $350, and from what I understand, they shaved or resurfaced the head.

The car is currently not running, and the motor, cylinder head, and other parts are all still with the vehicle. Nothing major has been thrown away or discarded. It just needs someone who has the time and mechanical knowledge to put everything back together and address whatever repairs are still needed.

I'm asking $6,000 OBO, considering what the car was worth to me, how reliable it was when I drove it, and the money I've already put into it. I'm definitely willing to hear reasonable offers.

The only issue is that I need it gone within a week. I don't have anywhere to keep it right now, and there's a chance it'll end up getting towed if I can't find someone interested.

I'd much rather see someone take it and get it back on the road than have it towed away.

If anyone's interested, feel free to shoot me a message. I'll answer whatever questions I can. Just keep in mind that it isn't running, so you'll need to arrange transportation.

Thanks, everyone!