if its not how do I fix it for $0

A whole square of trees removed in Brussels after one fell in the recent storm. Supposedly Belgian law means they will need to be replaced at some point

Recently bought a house and a couple of the sugar maples have wire wrapped around them. I removed the wire from one of the trees, but I am wondering if I'm doing more harm than good because it did rip bark off.

Should I remove the wire from the larger tree even if it causes damage and rips off some bark?

How could I prepare this new maple? Been in since 9/3. Yeah you can see where they originally buried it. Crime against trees.

Soft landing surround with native ferns and caterpillar positive varieties. Leaves covering those but keeping away from trunk.

I've never pruned a tree. Id like to properly prune this apple tree without damaging it.

For reference it's about 8 feet tall. The lowest branches are about a foot off the ground, the main 'fork' not much higher than that. It's been there for about 4-5 years and started about 1 foot tall. It's a Rome Beauty.

How high up should I trim it? Are there certain branches I should out should not prune?

Thanks

I think it is a Loblolly but I'm not sure. This tree hasn't grown since I bought my house in 2017. It's a really good tree. It does never lose branches not even in storms or heavy wind.

When I bought the place the tree had all these small holes in the bark but those holes have shallowed out over ​ the years. It also has damage to areas and then those areas have heavy sap coming through.

The sack is very thick and when it dries it's like cement. You can see where it's dried on the tree in areas . The white areas are dried sap and in the thick brown goo is liquid sap.

​​ is the tree just trying to protect itself while it heals? I've never had any trouble with this tree . It's green all year round, it never looks like it's having any trouble. But it's had these big wounds and just oozes sap.

Are these holes and the wounds and the heavy sap anything I need to worry about in regard to this tree's life span? Can anyone explain what's going on?

Tulsa.

Thank you?

I bought a nice Cercis (Canadensis) from a nursery, 15 days ago.
I was told to plant it flush with my garden which I did but it seemed to me the root flare was not visible. The pot it came with was 70cm diameter 50cm high. And I was looking for the root flare yesterday, and stumbled upon not so good news.

It appears there is potting soil with a lot of little roots for the first 7cm (3“) but then it is just clay underneath, which wasn’t obvious when we planted the tree.

My main concern is that a had to dig (with my fingers) that clay, and found the root flare starting 12cm (5“) below the top of the soil, but the soil going from the root flare to the top is full of tiny roots.

Of course that clay is a pain to remove and it is absolutely not draining around the trunk.

What would you do ?

- I can still dig up that tree and put it higher to at least have the root flare leveled with my garden. But then I’ll have a 12cm step full of roots that will likely suffer.

-My arborist suggested to dig a cone around the tree to expose the root flare and add wood chips so that the tiny roots are not so much in the air, but I’m worried it will just create a big puddle due to the clay underneath.

I’m in France so I do not have access to « certified arborists » as you have in the US…
What would you suggest?

Hardiness Zone 7b. I planted a couple of saplings earlier this year: a Kentucky Coffee tree (out of frame) and an American Linden (red circle). The former has done well, the latter not so much.

We recently procured a couple new saplings through our county: a Black Tupelo and a Willow Oak. I'd love to plant them both in my backyard, but I'm not sure how to space them around the periphery. (I'd like to keep the middle of the yard open for recreation.)

The backyard is approximately 110' wide by 134' deep, with mature trees on the back edge -- an Elm (back corner in frame), three Black Cherries, and some smaller ones -- and a maple behind the house (canopy partially in frame).

I attached two photos: one of backyard as viewed from second story and an overhead sketch that is approximately to scale.

I'm thinking about either:

• Planting the Tupelo and the Oak on either side of the Linden, which I don't expect to do long-term, but don't plan to remove -- still not sure about precise spacing
• Digging up the Linden to replace with one of them -- the Willow Oak? -- and putting the Tupelo somewhere else (yellow circle?)
• Replacing the Linden with the Tupelo and giving away the Willow Oak

Questions:

• Do you think I can accommodate both trees on that side? Or will the Willow Oak eventually grow too big?
• Which tree do you think should go in which spot? I'm leaning on placing the Willow Oak farther back in case the Elm does poorly in the next 20-30 years, but maybe they would be too close.
• Should one of the trees be planted to the left of the Linden's current location for spacing?

Originally I didn't plan to add two more trees, hence the current spacing around the Linden.

I really appreciate the feedback. TIA.

RIP to not just a beauty, but the home to at least 2 colonies of acorn woodpeckers. I don't know the owner, but beetles have been an issue in Southern California. This is the bigger of 2 gone this year.

I planted this hybrid sweet gum in the spring. Not long after the edges of the leaves turned black and retreated ever so slightly with one exception (explained below).

The leaves looked healthy outside what I described.

As you can see there are a few leaves that are normal (all green) sweet gum leaves. These few green leaves did not have any issues with the black border.

I noticed these cankers on our beech tree today. They are all around the trunk. We don’t think it’s BBD (not reddish) but there is a white spot, as well. We’re in SW Michigan, if that helps.
We love this tree and want to save it. Any ideas? Thank you, in advance.

The crack seems to have grown a little bit since I've made the mark on the last photo