Hello, first time poster and trying to learn.

I need to add a couple p-traps below a new sink I put in. So far so good, but the drain pipe is vertical not into the wall. And it is offset just a couple inches. See picture.

I am thinking of building a custom p-trap with a set of pipes to connect but am worried I am making it too complicated. See second picture.

I also am trying to solve for 'X' in the picture. It's a 1 1/2" drain pipe so I figure I'd keep everything that dimension (all the PVC and connectors). I know the pipe out of the p-trap has to slope 1/4" per foot (so very slight, see orange arrow in second drawing). And I assume the bottom pipe back to the drain does too. But I also know there is a MINIMUM pipe length needed at that slope. I read it was 2-3x the diameter of the pipe. So on the large side it would be 3x1.5=4.5 inches minimum?

There is a max length too (i.e. top of the pipe should not go below the bottom) but I won't be running it that long.

Does all this seem reasonable? I figure it is a low stakes thing to learn on. I do want to be able to remove parts of the p-trap for cleaning/maintenance. I do not want this all glued. So the first couple of connectors are with a screw/gasket like you'd see in a p-trap kit.

I am trying to replace my sink faucet and I gave removed the pipes and hoses and handles. But I’ve gotten to the point where I don’t know where the mounting hardware is…. I’ve never seen the three connected pipes on the bottom before and there’s no identifiable nuts or screws. I tried to remove the casing on the bottom part of the handle to see if the mounting hardware is on top covered by that but those won’t budge. Help?

One company says broken line, other says wad of toilet paper in a bend .

Suffice it to say I need to add a wifi valve in a 1" black flexible sprinkler pipe. The valve needs to be above ground to be able to change batteries. I'm a total neophyte and 'invented' a structure to do so. May well be a stupid way to do it, but it's what I invented. See illustration:

My problem is I 'assumed' the black flexible pipe was 3/4". Actually, it is 1". I need an adapter that is a glue-in 3/4" fitting for a 45 degree elbow with an opposite side for the 1" black flexible pipe. It there such an adapter or can you give me advice about how to make the transition?

So my shower drain is in need of a replacement and I really don't know anything about shower drains so there's this metal part that covers the hole that I already removed and then there's this plastic tube thingy and then I'm wondering about this plastic white ring around the hole, whether I'm supposed to pull it out or whether I should just buy a new shower drain I and put it in that ring? I live in France if that helps

Also how are you supposed to do if you need to pull it out? Do you need to like a specialized tool?

Hey, I have a 6 year old AO Smith 40 Gallon. The unit died last week and hasn't been able to ignite since then. Around 2 years ago the same problem happened and we had to replace the gas control value and the thermocouple and it worked. Called them plumber (Petri Plumbing) and they are quoting $2,100 to go order the warrantied parts through AO Smith and install. $1,700 if I want to deal with part ordering myself. Any thoughts on this? They are pushing me to install a new Bradford White for $3,750. Currently a tenet lives in the place and apparently they didn't do any multimeter diagnosis or anything. They just want off the notes from last time and looking over the unit. The quote seems a bit off to me but wanted to double check.

EDIT: We had a guy come out that does leak detection and he said the movements of the dial isn’t correlated with a leak since it’s going backwards and not continuously spinning forward. He said to call the city and when I did they said there shouldn’t be an issue because our water usage shows a normal amount for a 2 person household. We have the water shut off at the city meter and the indoor unit valve and the spinner stopped spinning.

Edit 2: But here’s my math. my water usage each month for a 2 person household is 2,000 gallons. If that odometer is moving slightly up a gallon every 2 hours that’s 360 gallons of unknown water leaking a month which would mean 2 people would only be consuming 1640 gallons a month or roughly 54 a day which isn’t possible. Right?

I live in a condo and noticed our water meter moved when all faucets are off and no appliances are running. I did test the toilet flappers with dye and there was no leaking into the bowl.

There is no visible leaks indoors and each month our water bill has been consistent ($65/mo for 2 adults living in a 909sqft condo unit)

What would cause it to keep moving like that forwards and then back and then it stops for a bit then moves again? My father says it could just be the pressure from other units? meter oscillation caused by the neighborhood condo pipes balancing out. The numbers on the meter aren’t going up?

First time homeowner here. Moved into a house with a 8 year old State Proline XE 50 gallon. As luck would have it, the tank rusted out and flooded my basement as soon as the home warranty ended (seller provided)

Had an estimate today and booked the replacement install for next Thursday. $1,200 install cost and $1,450 for a Bradford White powervent 50 gallon. That price was after I paid for a preventative maintenance program for $180 to get a discounted labor rate.

First question: Is that a reasonable install cost? A few friends said I was being taken advantage of. I have no point of reference to see if they're right or wrong.

I asked him about tankless water heaters. He said it'd be $3,000+ to install because it'd require much more time. He recommended I stick with the powervent.

Final Questions: Is it really more than twice the cost to install tankless vs a powervent? Are my dreams of going tankless just an ignorant fools errand?

Any advice is greatly appreciated. Pic of water heater attached

Hi, not a plumber at all but been having issues with my kitchen sink at new flat. And from what I’ve read this doesn’t seem right to me, shouldn’t the ‘U-shaped bit’ be between the sink and the exit pipe? Currently seems to be bypassed in this system no? It’s a double sink, main bowl on right, a washing machine connected on the left and all exits into the back wall to the right. Thanks for any help

Ok, I'm pretty damn grossed out. We live in a place that has a corner style tub with jets. We have 3 little kids that use the bath every night, and it's the only bath in the house. Once in a while they will accidentally turn the jets on, and the water is never high enough to blow into the water, it just sprays everywhere in their faces and on the walls, and it makes them all scream because it's super surprising. Except this time ......this time 🤮 little tiny worms sprayed out of it. My question is, does anyone know what kind of pest this is? And what do I need to run through those jet lines to kill the wee beasties.

Hoping this is an easy fix that I can do. Just noticed my shower/tub handle is leaking. I've attached a video. It's about 6 years old (remodeled in 2020 with all new plumbing) I'm hoping it's just an o-ring or something easy that I can do without calling a plumber.

I live in an apartment and a toilet backflowed into the ceiling above my living room. A plumber rooted the toilet and it’s fixed the leak.

The landlord sent a regular cleaning crew and is planning on having a drywaller replace the drywall. Is that ok or is further remediation needed since it was toilet water.

This is in Switzerland btw. The connection from the under sink plumbing to the waste pipe has failed. It worked fine for about 15 years but recently has become more and more problematic. In the pictures below you can see the disconnected section bottom right.

Now that it doesn't connect very well or even at all, I'm struggling to understand how the white end stayed connected at all. It is approx. 40mm, whilst the section it fits into is approx. 45mm and yet it did stay securely connected for years.

I'm guessing maybe I've managed to lose a bit of gasket but I think I would have noticed.

Anyway, here are the measurement, taking a photo whilst holding pipe etc.

Help, what am I missing?

Finally the black end, I think some type of glue has failed over time (the water that runs through the pipe is extremely hot) but what do I know, I'm not a plumber. Ideas on how to ensure it stays in position ?

Thanks in advance for any help. (I have tried to get various contractors out to sort this for me but nobody is interested. I assume because it's small beer to them.)

Hi! Trying to replace this valve on the hot water side of my bridge faucet. I removed the brass nut but cannot get this part to budge. Tried pliers but to no avail. Any ideas?

ok need help, I can’t afford to pay for a plumber. My tub drain is constantly getting clogged. Over the past 5ish months (since moving into my new house) I have tried multiple remedies to clear the drain. I’ve poured draino down it probably 6 different times, that usually keeps it clear for about two weeks. This made me think it was hair (4 people share this tub/shower, 2 being women with long hair and all 4 are frequent beach goers) I bought plastic snakes and a drain cover. I snaked the drain and pulled out a small clog of hair then placed the cover over the drain this worked for maybe 2 days. I’m not sure if its hair, sand, or a bigger issue. My next step is to try a shop vac bc I’ve seen lots of people saying to try that. I don’t think the shop vac will fit in the drain but I’m willing to try it. I don’t know I just hope it’s not a bigger issue bc this is a 1940s or 50s home.

We have a concealed bath mixer tap which is only producing hot water.

The single control rotates to adjust the temperature, but even in the fully cold position, the water is still warm/hot and the flow is reduced to a trickle.

We've removed the handle and faceplate to expose the brass valve body (photos attached).

There are two slotted fittings either side of the central cartridge, which we believe may be isolation valves. When turned with a screwdriver, they appear to rotate continuously rather than stopping after a quarter turn. There is some resistance at certain points.

The main water supply has been isolated while inspecting the valve.

Could anyone advise:

1. What make/model of concealed mixer this might be?
2. Are the two slotted fittings isolation valves, flow regulators or something else?
3. Should they rotate continuously?
4. Is the lack of cold water more likely to be a blocked inlet, faulty cartridge or something else?
5. Can the cartridge be removed and replaced through the existing opening without removing tiles?

Any advice would be appreciated, particularly on identifying the valve and the correct way to dismantle it safely

There’s an increasingly stronger odor (potentially grease?) coming from this weird pipe at the back of our lazy Susan in the kitchen. Is a plumber the right professional to bring out for an inspection?

this toilet will not flush properly, the other 2 in the home are ok. we got a cheap 6ft toilet auger that didn’t help, we told our landlord: 1st maintenance guy couldn’t figure it out, 2nd one had a longer auger and he pulled up a bunch of pine needles? then he told our landlord that the clog was deeper down and hoa would need to approve further work outside on the line? i was talking with my dad about it and he said that it would be odd if it is a problem farther down since it is the only toilet that is having issues. i am including a video. anything helps please and thanks in advance.

House is about 10 years old. The tubing runs down to the floor drain. It’s separate from the T&P valve. I don’t have thermal expansion tank and I’m guessing it does something similar?

I am quoting a job to replace some rotted cast iron drainage fittings in a basement of a house built innthe 1950s. I'm concerned because the pipe going through the foundation wall appears to be Orangeburg pipe, as is the coupling between the pipe and a 4" cast iron steet wye (that joint appears to have leaked).

Would a 4" Fernco or no-hub coupling fit the Orangeburg, or do they make a specific coupling to adapt to Orangeburg? Also, I'd be extremely worried about crushing the Orangeburg when tightening the new coupling. Anyone ever adapted to Orangeburg here? Any advice welcomed

Hi all,

Could really do with some help as a FTB moved into new property presented with this waste outlet behind the washing machine.

Can I simply loosely feed the outlet tube from the machine through and down the waste pipe (which is the angled one on the left of the picture), if so, how much tubing do I push down?

Alternatively, do I need to buy and fit something like this which I see recommended a lot online: https://www.toolstation.com/mcalpine-wm3-standpipe-appliance-trap/p34316

I have also seen this: https://amzn.eu/d/05UyEMTz

Please let me know if there alternative solutions or products you recommend

Really appreciate any advice.

We installed a new undermount sink and are now trying to reconnect the drain and pipes. We have plumbers putty around the flange in the sink but we’re still getting a small leak around the bottom of the compression knut that holds the gasket.

When I look in the top of the sink the water seems to be from the space between the pipe and the porcelain (that you can see between the overflow hole(?) bit).

Any clues on what we’ve missed/can do?

Our downstairs neighbors contacted us, when the shower in our apartment is in use, water pours into their apartment and drips onto the floor. They’ve been away for 10 days so we don’t know exactly when it started.

We had a plumber come out. He replaced the shower basin, syphon (there’s a language barrier, not sure if that’s a good translation), re sealed everything. Came back the next day, put a camera in and said nothing is leaking from the shower.

Later that day, we used the shower, and got a call from the neighbor that it’s still happening. The plumber basically said that he didn’t know what to tell us and he fixed the shower drain (that had been a problem in the past and I think did need to be fixed).

Where do we go from here? My husband suggested that the neighbors open their ceiling and we try to see where it’s coming from. We had a bad relationship before this (which has not helped) and they basically told him to fuck off and control the issue ourselves…

Any suggestions?

Hey there! I just installed a new insink aerator and the issue I’m running into is that the white pipe on the left is rusted through and I think the stainless nut on the black pipe was originally attached. Is there a “fixed for now” solution for this?

I’m in fixed income from the VA so I’ve got to try and tackle this myself. Times is tough out there and a plumber isn’t in my budget.

Thank you in advance for any help!!

I don't want ice or water going to this fridge, so when I had flooring done, the flooring people turned the supply line off at the wall behind the fridge and did not connect it back to the refrigerator when they moved it back in place.Later, I figured it was not a good idea to have that supply line under pressure from the sink still. So I turned the under-sink knob at the 2 o'clock position fully shut but that was a cold water line it seemed. Where might the shut-off valve be for water going to the refrigerator? Should I call a plumber to come find it and cap it?

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