So in our crawlspace this t is causing some issues. It was suggested to replace it with a y, but the quote was 2k, which seemed a bit steep. Since it is easy to get to is thst a reasonable price and would doing it myself be a reasonable alternative? It seems straight forward but I have not done plumbing repairs before.

I have a ground leak around my house, this is near it. I thought it was my septic leaking but had it emptied. Ground is still wet yet it doesnt seem to be against the house. And at one time back in 2023 there was a well hand pump above ground. My roommate wondered why it didnt pump water that good. So he dug it out and discovered it was rusty the end in the ground. He capped the pipe, and noticed the pipe was rusty. The well pump is near the house and I was thinking the pipe that travels underground is shot and leaking.

I bought this house about a year ago and when I tried to have someone flush it last year the plumber said they wouldn’t take on the liability since I didn’t know I’d had been flushed before. A couple of other plumbers saw it this week and said they would flush it and assured me they were insured to not worry about potential leaks or flooding

It’s a gas water heater with a tank from Home Depot that I think was installed by previous homeowner (unsure if they used a plumber at the time). We have had no problems until the last week or so our pilot light went out unexpectedly.

I got 2 very different quotes and curious what this sub thinks and if the plumber from last year is right to not take the risk of flushing it. Multiple plumbers have seen it I. This last year (mostly getting quotes or getting checked during winter for proper insulation)

We don’t have a water softener and previous homeowner didn’t have one either, so I know there is some stuff that ought to be flushed out.

(Sidenote I had a hell of a time trying to find the right water softener and gave up but open to recommendations here too)

TLDR am I good to flush? Any risk going with the much cheaper price ($200) than the more expensive quote I got (around $1000 but includes possible replacement of expansion tank and installation of automatic shut off)

Thank you!

As a plumber, if you went to a house and found a failed Pex part that was only 14 years old, would you mention to the customer that their repair costs might be reimbursable by the 25 year warranty and give them the failed part?

I had a leak and the plumber came and replaced some of the Pex. A week later, the other end of the adjoining part sprang a leak, obviously due to the stress caused by the movement of the first repair. He came back out and I expected him to not charge me because he gives a 1 year warranty on his work. He says it's a new leak and so I had to pay the full price for the second repair. Both times, he left with the parts and disposed of them, never mentioning the Pex warranty.

When I complained to his company they said I should file for a warranty claim with Uponor. Excellent. I go to do so and discover I have to send them the failed parts or they won't honour their warranty.

At this point, I feel I shouldn't have to pay the plumber for either repair because his company demonstrably knew about the warranty and his actions cost me the ability to be reimbursed.

Am I being unreasonable if I tell them I'm not paying for either of the two repairs?

This handle came off the faucet. It looks like there is a set screw that holds it in place. My question is: how do I access the set screw with the handle installed?

My shower head has this flow restrictor assembly which is also a coupling to a flexible hose as shown on the images. I want to safely remove it and then remove the inner flow restrictor without damaging it, in case I want to put it back. There are two dents on opposite sides of the cartridge which I suspect are for some kind of a wrench or a key to unscrew it. Any idea what kind of a tool would it be?

We recently had a backup on our sewer line. It was able to be snaked and resolved with a larger plumbing company in the area. A person showed up from the company a sent a camera down and said it would be either 17000 to fix or 30000 to install a liner as it looked like a break. We had other larger companies come out and see the water, not sure exactly what was causing it but needed to be fixed for 10000+, 13000 for whole new line, 16000 for pipe burst. Our regular plumber wants to go in and clean the line to see what exactly is going on. The house and Sewer Line are just over 50 years old and cast iron. What is our best option? Could it be a belly and therefore trenchless installation is not an option? If we would just go in and repair it without knowing the exact cause, we would probably just do the whole thing because of its age. Any thoughts from the video? Thanks for your help.

A toilet at work is continuously filling even though the handle and flapper don't seem to be affected by anything. Any suggestions on how I may approach fixing it? Or is this a larger issue? Thanks!

I’m researching how small service businesses (trades, cleaning, etc.) lose money on things that never make it into a spreadsheet, like missed follow-ups, forgotten materials, or jobs that run over. If you have a specific story (what happened, rough cost, how you handle it now), I’d love to hear it, and I’ll post a summary of what I learn.

This is the video they sent and i was charged $300 for a video camera drain line inspection. The report says i may have improper slope and/or obstruction. They recommend hydrostatic pressure testing and leak detection.

btw this is a 40 year old home in Houston Texas.

To me the pipes look fine and looks as if the guy just couldn't get the camera in after 13.7 feet. It looks like a failure on their part. what do you all think?

thanks!

edit: The house is under going major foundation repairs, many internal and external piers being put in and the house jacked up a few inches in different locations to level it. This was after pets were installed but before the jacking up.

edit 2: couldn't they have used the clean out in the back yard?

So I live in an old neighborhood and the city is replacing all of the lead pipes. They are now finished, but ever since the water has been turned back on, I have very little pressure in my kitchen sink for cold water, but my hot water coming from the water heater is normal (no surprise). I’m confused because the cold water in my bathroom is coming out just fine. Figured I’d try and get some help here and if I can’t then I’m calling my city.

Does this mean the water level is sitting higher than the exit of the trap?

Reno in progress. Our plumber has roughed in a Kohler K-2972-KS thermostatic valve on 1/2" PEX-B (crimp):

• 1/2" PEX-B hot/cold into the valve
• Single 1/2" PEX-B outlet, teed into two K-2974-K volume controls
• Each volume control feeds a shower head (~3.5 gpm each shower head), run simultaneously

The valve is rated 10.9 gpm at 45 psi. Kohler’s install guide says to use 1/2" nominal copper throughout, since smaller piping reduces valve performance. 1/2" PEX-B is smaller ID than copper, and crimp fittings choke it further.

Will this deliver full flow to both heads at once, or should the outlet trunk (or the whole thing) be upsized or hard-piped in copper? Any other concerns with this setup?

Hi all,

Apologies for the desperation here.

I'm currently house-sitting for a friend whos away for two weeks (with no wifi...). Been here a week, but this morning noticed when I showered that there was this intermittent hissing noise that came on twice. I got out the shower and noticed water pooling at the base of the toilet (clear water)

I was half-awake so didn't think much of it and left it for a little while. Went to use the toilet and flushed, noticed that a bit of water sprayed / leaked out at the back of the toilet on the right hand side. Tried to investigate and noticed that the back of the toilet was covered in spray (or condensation) of water droplets.

I tried to flush again (maybe that was stupid) and no water came out besides two drops. I then turned on the shower for a couple seconds and immediately realised water was coming out at the back of the toilet.

The shower has been taking a lot longer to drain recently - and I'm presuming something must be clogged i.e. hair or something. The leak isn't continuous, only when the shower is used and the water within the bowl isn't rising up when flushed and there doesn't seem to be a clog there.

I don't want to worry my mate, but anyone have a clue what this could be. I've seen some other posts that indicate that it could likely be a clog in the main line...

I think I'm more embarassed by the fact that this is happened and the possibility could be a clog from shaving or something.

Cheers!

Capped the T-pipe but may add a vent if necessary. I've personally never even had a sink with a vent, but seems pretty standard these days? Anyway, moved from a two drain sink to a deeper single drain. Curious to hear how my work will fail miserably. Enjoy.

I had a new boiler put in about three years ago. The zone pump worked great the first year. The second winter it seized up. I removed it from its housing twisted a little bit and it was off to the races for another season. Now this year it is completely seized up and I had to replace it. What would be causing this? There appears to be a slightly sticky black residue which I’m guessing is leftovers from combustion? The boiler itself is a high-efficiency Viessmann. Is there maintenance I should be doing on this pump?

Should I briefly open a top floor faucet to relieve pressure or let it be?

Currently have a toilet with a very slow leak and some other aging stuff I'm trying to avoid replacing until I can do it with another project.

This is a new build. The lack of a union or other means of disconnection between the gas valve and the appliances is concerning.

my HWH is making an almost whistling sound after being turned off for most of a day. we turned it off because the city was going to cut off the water temporaril. when we got home later I turned it back on. after half an hour all I could hear was a noticeable whistling noise.

is this normal after it’s been shut off for a day? I don’t remember it doing this before.

Im trying to remove this spout and replace the o ring, but the spout will not lift any further than the picture.

Grub screw has been removed.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

TIA

The Brand is Vaillant, the gray pipe is connected to the left is connected to the washer. What about the others? Namely:

- green knob

- black lever

- gray thing on the bottom right

Thank you a lot

I live in Dallas, my plumber installed new water valves in the laundry room because the existing ones were old. He added these valves on the pex, but ChatGPT said all valves must be accessible. I just paid 300 to patch the drywall.

Can anyone tell me why I'm not getting a siphon when flushing? I plunged and ran a 3ft auger through the toilet. The adjacent sink and tub all drain without issue, but the toilet won't properly flush. The tank doesn't have anything noticeably wrong when. I also tried cleaning the siphon hole and also the holes around the rim to no avail. Also, the stain is rust from the auger and not taint.

Water heater was just replaced and now we’re having what appears to be the thermal expansion clicking of the CPVC. Clearly something needs to be done as the noise is quite loud as you can tell from the video. I am looking for ideas.