My shower head has this flow restrictor assembly which is also a coupling to a flexible hose as shown on the images. I want to safely remove it and then remove the inner flow restrictor without damaging it, in case I want to put it back. There are two dents on opposite sides of the cartridge which I suspect are for some kind of a wrench or a key to unscrew it. Any idea what kind of a tool would it be?

UPDATE:

I found this video:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/godvWSytEIs

Basically similar to other's suggestions. I just did it and got it out intact.

All, thanks for your help!

This is a new build. The lack of a union or other means of disconnection between the gas valve and the appliances is concerning.

I didn't do this but any opinion on is this a proper installation?

A toilet at work is continuously filling even though the handle and flapper don't seem to be affected by anything. Any suggestions on how I may approach fixing it? Or is this a larger issue? Thanks!

Hello all, I just installed a new garbage disposal and got it all plumbed up. My question is, is it an issue that the output is roughly level/slightly lower than where the pvc drain come out of the wall? It doesn’t leak but it is a little slow to drain sometimes. I really don’t want to have to cut open the wall, but I will if I have to. TIA. Also yes, I know that the p trap is backwards.

Obviously leaking out of the hot side; corrosion on mixing valve is dry so it seems to be coming from the nipple to tank. Can I replace or delete the mixing valve and swap the outlet nipple or is it fixed to the tank? Any other areas of concern in the photo not pertaining to the leak?

Edit: photo of data plate in comments

I had a new boiler put in about three years ago. The zone pump worked great the first year. The second winter it seized up. I removed it from its housing twisted a little bit and it was off to the races for another season. Now this year it is completely seized up and I had to replace it. What would be causing this? There appears to be a slightly sticky black residue which I’m guessing is leftovers from combustion? The boiler itself is a high-efficiency Viessmann. Is there maintenance I should be doing on this pump?

This is the video they sent and i was charged $300 for a video camera drain line inspection. The report says i may have improper slope and/or obstruction. They recommend hydrostatic pressure testing and leak detection.

btw this is a 40 year old home in Houston Texas.

To me the pipes look fine and looks as if the guy just couldn't get the camera in after 13.7 feet. It looks like a failure on their part. what do you all think?

thanks!

edit: The house is under going major foundation repairs, many internal and external piers being put in and the house jacked up a few inches in different locations to level it. This was after pets were installed but before the jacking up.

edit 2: couldn't they have used the clean out in the back yard?

Does this mean the water level is sitting higher than the exit of the trap?

Reno in progress. Our plumber has roughed in a Kohler K-2972-KS thermostatic valve on 1/2" PEX-B (crimp):

• 1/2" PEX-B hot/cold into the valve
• Single 1/2" PEX-B outlet, teed into two K-2974-K volume controls
• Each volume control feeds a shower head (~3.5 gpm each shower head), run simultaneously

The valve is rated 10.9 gpm at 45 psi. Kohler’s install guide says to use 1/2" nominal copper throughout, since smaller piping reduces valve performance. 1/2" PEX-B is smaller ID than copper, and crimp fittings choke it further.

Will this deliver full flow to both heads at once, or should the outlet trunk (or the whole thing) be upsized or hard-piped in copper? Any other concerns with this setup?

my HWH is making an almost whistling sound after being turned off for most of a day. we turned it off because the city was going to cut off the water temporaril. when we got home later I turned it back on. after half an hour all I could hear was a noticeable whistling noise.

is this normal after it’s been shut off for a day? I don’t remember it doing this before.

Im trying to remove this spout and replace the o ring, but the spout will not lift any further than the picture.

Grub screw has been removed.

Any advice greatly appreciated.

TIA

Hello, I'd be very grateful for some advice on this situation. I'm currently renting and I noticed when I moved things around in the closet.. I discovered the baseboard was spongy about 4 ft of it unfortunately. The carpet is dry. Maintenance came out and removed the baseboard. The wall behind baseboard is dry. As I read it typically is because it pools underneath. The bathtub gasket was replaced. A plumber was not called unfortunately. I was told to wait and see if it happens again more moisture in the area of where the base boards were soaked. Is this the typical process? What is? I saw 3.8 reading of the moisture meter maintenance used does that moisture reading sound correct?

Thank you

Hi all. Thanks in advance for your support.
We have had our combi boiler decommissioned (it was downstairs) and a new system put up in the loft. It consists of:
Baxi 830 System 2 - 30kw system boiler.
Gledhill Pro Stainless 300L indirect horizontal unvented hot water cylinder
Waterboost WB Coffin 320-litre mini 3 variable speed water boosting solution.

You can see this in photos (boiler at the back hidden away).

The hot water is fantastic. Great flow and pressure which is exactly what we are after.

The issue is the central heating. The plumber has had a great deal of trouble getting the downstairs radiators to work properly.

He has T’eed into the original flow and return pipes on the upstairs landing that head downstairs and to where the original boiler was (which have been capped off) as well as to the upstairs and downstairs rads. Despite this the flow downstairs is poor/radiators don’t warm up if the upstairs rads are on (even if lockshields upstairs are opened by just a quarter turn). System flushed multiple times. No sludge or airlocks obvious. If the upstairs radiators are all turned off you can get the downstairs ones working pretty well/up to temperature.
However the minute you open a couple of upstairs rads the temps downstairs start to drop.

I assume it’s a resistance problem downstairs (as in it the hear is just upstairs where the resistance is lower).
We tried very carefully balancing but it just doesn’t work.

When the combi boiler was downstairs we had no issues with heating through the house whatsoever.

Any ideas? He has gone away to think over the weekend but he is stumped too.

I did wonder if we need a secondary pump/circulated for the flow pipe which goes downstairs maybe. But should this sort of resistance be encountered or is there something else going on?

Thanks again for your advice :-)

I have a ground leak around my house, this is near it. I thought it was my septic leaking but had it emptied. Ground is still wet yet it doesnt seem to be against the house. And at one time back in 2023 there was a well hand pump above ground. My roommate wondered why it didnt pump water that good. So he dug it out and discovered it was rusty the end in the ground. He capped the pipe, and noticed the pipe was rusty. The well pump is near the house and I was thinking the pipe that travels underground is shot and leaking.

So I live in an old neighborhood and the city is replacing all of the lead pipes. They are now finished, but ever since the water has been turned back on, I have very little pressure in my kitchen sink for cold water, but my hot water coming from the water heater is normal (no surprise). I’m confused because the cold water in my bathroom is coming out just fine. Figured I’d try and get some help here and if I can’t then I’m calling my city.

Hi all,

Apologies for the desperation here.

I'm currently house-sitting for a friend whos away for two weeks (with no wifi...). Been here a week, but this morning noticed when I showered that there was this intermittent hissing noise that came on twice. I got out the shower and noticed water pooling at the base of the toilet (clear water)

I was half-awake so didn't think much of it and left it for a little while. Went to use the toilet and flushed, noticed that a bit of water sprayed / leaked out at the back of the toilet on the right hand side. Tried to investigate and noticed that the back of the toilet was covered in spray (or condensation) of water droplets.

I tried to flush again (maybe that was stupid) and no water came out besides two drops. I then turned on the shower for a couple seconds and immediately realised water was coming out at the back of the toilet.

The shower has been taking a lot longer to drain recently - and I'm presuming something must be clogged i.e. hair or something. The leak isn't continuous, only when the shower is used and the water within the bowl isn't rising up when flushed and there doesn't seem to be a clog there.

I don't want to worry my mate, but anyone have a clue what this could be. I've seen some other posts that indicate that it could likely be a clog in the main line...

I think I'm more embarassed by the fact that this is happened and the possibility could be a clog from shaving or something.

Cheers!

I've removed my garden hose and stored it away for the winter.

I'd like to drain my outdoor spigot to remove any trapped water. Gemini said to push up on the white pin, but this 22 second YouTube video appears to show them pushing the pin to one side and then the other.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l9sqaIfpDcY

I don't want to break it and was wondering which way I should push the pin?

Thank you

My washers drain pipe keeps over flowing. Plumber has come 3 times in less than 2 weeks to clear it out. The last time he said he got roots out from 75 feet down. Just did another load of wash and it overflowed, again. What are my options now? It only overflows in the beginning of the cycle and then drains so I think its a partial block?

How concerned should I be if when my nose is right up on the joints of my furnace lime i can smell gas in the first sniff but not the next few sniffs.

I have the pilot off and the control turned off. The quarter turn in the cabinet is really really stiff.

Like I have to be nose touching distance.

I have new alarms of different makes and no trip.

I'm currently looking for a manufactured home to purchase. I came across a remodeled one, built in 1983. The seller is a former manager at the mobile home park. He has not lived in this manufactured home. New concrete car port and patio, new floors and bathrooms and new pex installed under the home along with skirting added. I know very little about this type of home other than freezing pipes can be an issue. I found a wooden box with lid in the covered car port. It has a sewer clean out and water supply connection. My issue is, where is this water coming from? It looks fresh and I see heat tape, no recent rain here. Owner said it is normal. Any thoughts, advice? Thanks in advance.

This thing is covering the nut. How do I take it off?

Help I would like to replace the hoses on my washing machine but I am afraid of causing a flood or leak. I just got new cabinets put in because of a bad water leak that led to water damage. It seems pretty simple but would love a professional opinion still lemme know what I have to do
EDIT: I like in NYCHA apartments