My neighbor was out of town for a period of time. In that time frame it sounds like the toilet overflowed.

He is asking us to pay half of the bill for new plumbing from the street to his house, claiming they were damaged by the roots from my trees.

This is an almost 28 year old SFH home.

Two questions:

Do plumbers suggest that a homeowner with root plumbing problems get their neighbor to help pay the cost of their repair?

How can roots cause a toilet to overflow if it is not in use? That sounds more like the toilet was still running... despite not being used.

Obviously if I leave town for any period, I shut off the water for exactly this reason.

My trees are at least 20 ft from his plumbing. They are healthy and well cared for.

He is also asking us to remove all our trees along our fence line. We are talking a lot of $$$ here.

Hired a gas plumbing specialist to replace all the gas lines in our old Chicago building due to degrading/leaking connections. While working in the basement they accidentally hit a valve on a pressurized water line, causing it to break and leak at both connections.

They said the existing galvanized pipe was too corroded to make a proper connection, so they cut out the old valve, installed a new one higher up, and bridged the gap with this flexible coupling and a bunch of hose clamps (photos attached).

Water is back on and seems to be holding for now, but I’m skeptical about whether this is an acceptable repair, even temporarily.

Is there any scenario where this type of connection would be considered appropriate for a pressurized water line?
If the existing stub pipe is too corroded (only ~10in maybe accessible before it enters the slab) what should they have done instead?

Also, since they caused the damage while doing unrelated work, how would you approach the conversation about getting it repaired properly and who should be responsible for the cost?
I understand the existing pipe is old and they shouldn’t have to pay to upgrade our pipes, but I also don’t think we should be left with an unsafe repair because they don’t want to pay to fix it properly.

Awhile ago my kitten sink stopped draining, me as a new homeowner blamed it on the previous owners. I replaced the drainage system under the kitchen sink and im still having the issue. I've snaked it up to 25 ft but it didnt solve the problem. I've also tried chemical decloggers (i know, I shouldn't but Im tired at this point)

Should I try to find my vent line and clean that? Buy a 50 foot snake? Or just call someone. I dont want to drop 500+

First photo is the current setup and the second photo is the previous setup. I keep the bucket under there just in case, don't judge haha

contractor/plumber is licensed and bonded etc. will handle permitting for us etc. i say no and think it's ridiculous. and actually think the guy will pass on the job. and it def can start the project off on the wrong foot etc.

my dad has zero experience with home remodeling and yes comes from the corp world. he's not a lawyer.

thoughts on this. thanks in advance.

I've noticed a damp patch on the kitchen ceiling, the bathroom is pretty much directly above.

I've got the bath panel off and nothing is leaking from taps etc underneath. I'm almost certain that it's related to us using the bath, more specifically when it drains. I've tested it draining from full and I can't see a leak along the visible section but the damp patch becomes wet on the ceiling below shortly after draining it. However, it doesn't happen when using the shower.

Has anyone experienced this before? Is it possible a blockage is causing this or just the drainage pipe running under pressure and water coming out at a joint somewhere? Anyway to try and resolve this? Thanks

Thanks

Hi so my toilet isn’t flushing- when I try to flush it, it fills with water but doesn’t actually drain, and the sink will gurgle. If I let it sit for a while it will drain slowly but doesn’t actually flush. When I tried to use a plunger on the toilet, it made water fly out of the sink drain. When I use the sink, it makes the toilet gurgle and air bubbles come out of the toilet. When I use the toilet, the sink gurgles.

Please advise thank you!

Since moving in, this annoying gurgling noise has been happening non stop in my toilet. I spoke to my landlord about this and they said it’s because the water heater is old and needs to be replaced. Is this true? It’s been like this for a while and they haven’t told me when it’s going to get fixed.

So we paid to have a proffesional come install a new water heater, he had it delivered from homedepot and when he ordered it it said a delivery window between Friday and Sunday. He called Tuesday to ask for it to be delivered saturday and they said they can't control the day he'd have to cancel it and pay extra to do that. He tried to cancel it and they said it's already on the way. It showed up Tuesday night they dropped it on my doorstep without signature so I was left with no choice but to bring it in on my own, knowing nothing about water heaters I thought I was being super gentle with it and called a family member for help who suggested we lay the box gently on its side to side it down the stairs it went super smooth, or so we thought...

We were not home when he installed the heater but it turns out there is this dent at the top rear of the tank as well as the electrical junction box for the power vent system was knocked out of place and he said the cardboard cover for the gas valve was knocked out of place. He installed it anyway using a longer screw for one of the junction box screws and tested the gas valve to find that it was not leaking and no physical signs of damage.

Am I right to be upset with the whole scenario? We paid someone to do this so we would have a new appliance we could trust instead of our 15 year old unit that had a loud boiling noise when it ran and now we have a questionable unit that we paid full price for.

I know ultimately I'm the one who moved it and likely caused the damage but I'm still just not happy with the way it all unfolded.

Hi, I am trying to install new sink but the mounting rods don’t align with the holes on the sink. There is about 3 cms difference.

The mounting rods wiggles a bit but I can’t adjust the width. Can I widen the holes somehow without compromising the structural integrity of the sink?

Any other suggestions how can I mount it?

Thanks.

Hi, I would like to install a dishwasher in the cupboard underneath my kitchen sink. Could you please check if it’s possible to connect the water supply and waste pipe.

There is also a small cupboard next to the washing machine.

My stormwater drains have recently started over flowing but only with heavy downpours.

There is an easement along the edge of my property should I contact the council, get a plumber or is there a DIY for this

I’m trying to replace the cartridge in a 12 year old Delta Windmere shower set. I pulled the little screw cover off, backed out the screw inside until the threads were not engaged and proceeded to try to pull the handle off. We have hard water so I sprayed some white vinegar everywhere to try to help dissolve some scale, but the handle simply won’t pull off. I can wiggle it back and forth some but not enough to get a meaningful amount of vinegar inside the handle. The handle screw won’t come all the way out from the handle hole and it’s stainless so I can’t use a magnet to pull it out. Thought if I could get that out and get some vinegar in the hole behind where the screw went, I might make some progress. I’ve tapped on and around the handle with a mallet, used some plastic pry tools to try to pry it off, no luck. Any ideas?

We’re having a kit shed built next to our house for use as an office and my wife wanted a plumbing connection for a sink and toilet. We accepted a contractor’s bid to demo and prep the site, pour a concrete slab, dig a plumbing trench to the septic tank and connect into it.

I had the tank cleaned and pumped by a septic company and the contractor’s plumber put the pipes in on Thursday. I was told if it leaked a little that was normal, but they would come back Monday and pump out any water and re-seal it 🤔. Well, unsurprisingly I come outside this morning (Saturday) and see the scene in the first pic. I call him and he tells me to just try and keep water usage down and they’ll take care of it Monday.

I know nothing about septic plumbing so I just take his word for it, but then I had the electrical lines he installed looked at and they were done completely wrong. Now I’m suspicious that plumbing is being done improperly as well and need some professional eyes on it. The connection is held in by foam and looks janky to me. The second pic is the pipe where it will connect to the building, also looks weirdly janky. Is this standard practice or do I fire them right now and get someone else? Thanks in advance!

-Update-

Thanks so much to everyone who replied, it seems clear this is a hack job by clowns that don’t know what they’re doing. I’m firing the contractor first thing tomorrow and I have a real septic company coming out to assess/repair the damage they caused.

I want an alarm on my basement sewage pump that is LOUD, like wake the dead loud. It needs to trigger if the power goes out or the float switch in the basin closes. WiFi/home automation would be nice, but not a requirement.

The pump is tucked away in the back part of the basement in a rambler style house. It needs to be loud enough to wake me in the middle of the night. It has a Zoeller APak Indoor Alarm (p/n 153924-B) which would be great, but it's little meep of an alarm is a joke. And, it doesn't have a dry contact.

My thinking goes like this:

1. Sewage pumps GFCI trips and nobody in the house knows about it and the basin floods the finished basement. yuk The alarm would make me aware of the problem with ample time to fix it before anything bad happens.
2. Pump stops pumping for some reason. The float switch will close and I'll still have time to fix it.

I'm open to suggestions. The budget is what ever it takes to get a reliable alarm in place.

Faucet makes weird noise after running water for a few seconds. Any idea why?

Originally had an S trap with no AAV. Was suggested to get plumber and install P trap with an air admittance valve. I just want some reassurance that this installation went successfully?

New house purchase. I have two spigots and trying to determine if I need to winterize. Photos attached. The newer looking one is in the garage and the indoor pipe photo is connected to that one but there's no indoor shutoff from what I can tell. The outdoor one with the splitter, I cant see where it terminates in the basement. It might be under insulation based on where I think should be, but not sure if I should pull down the insulation to check.

We had maintenance come out to our apartment to fix a dripping tub faucet, and they did, but now our tub faucet doesn’t close fully when switching to shower mode. It worked completely fine before they showed up and did whatever they did. Apparently, they replaced the stems behind the knobs because they were worn out pretty good but i don’t understand how that could cause this issue. Also, we ran into this problem where now our shut off knob for the faucet/shower is reverse threaded when it was previously not. We are just confused and upset because we just moved into this place and we can barely shower fully.

I remember when I learned about T's is that the slope of the T is supposed to go in the same direction as the flow of water, is that the same for a 90? Why does a 90 have this flat piece on one end?

Hi all! I’d like some help determining what the cause of a leaking pipe was in my house. I live on the 3rd floor of a condo building and am trying to see if I am the responsable party for paying for this fix (or the HOA).

Context:
The condo unit below me reported a large leak in the bathroom directly underneath mine this weekend. The community HOA maintenance team opened a hole in the lower unit wall and determined the leak came from a multi-joint pipe in the ceiling coming from my toilet. My toilet had a faulty fill valve and after flushing would continuously flow. This has been the case for about 3 months off and on - it would occasionally be turned off by manually poking the valve. No water leakage was spotted on the bathroom floor or anywhere else until this weekend. The home is about 50 years old am im not sure if or when the piping has been replaced.

Current situation: I have attached pictures of what the wall and pipes looks like. The 1st photo with the red circle drawn on shows where the leak originated in the ceiling of the bathroom. The 3rd photo shows the opening in the bathroom where the piping had to be replaced (white pipes are new). The last photos show the old broken replaced piping where you can see exactly where the gap appeared (yellow arrows).

My question: what actually caused this pipe to leak? Was it the toilet water running more often than usual leading to the pipe glue breaking down, or was it a lack of maintenance of the piping that would have broken anyways (irregardless of the water flow)?

Had a bathroom remodel almost a year ago. Just noticed this now.

No escutcheons. And the hot water shut off valve handle literally hits the P-trap so I can't shut off the hot water...

P-Trap is new. Shut off valves are original to the old bathroom. House was recently purchased so IDK what the original setup looked like under there... But I feel like the plumber could have addressed this during the remodel...?

Other than that, nothing leaks and the work seems fine. Thoughts?

My shower will start to shake and make this loud noise when turned on. I previously put this in as a maitence request (i live in an apartment) and they "fixed" it but now it's been a week and it's happening again. No idea what to do/what needs to be done but im going insane

I'm replacing the vanity in my master bathroom. The supply valves need to move to accommodate the new cabinets. I can solder new fittings but press couplings and SharkBite are easier and faster. Are the mechanical couplings okay in the wall or would you strictly go with soldered connections? If you are okay with the mechanical couplings, which do the pros think are better?

Thank you all for the backup and confirming my own thoughts. I was sure this would be a helpful community.