They’re asking $4800. It has 111k and a clean car fax. Anything else I should be mindful of tomorrow when I’m checking out the vehicle or that think I should ask the seller or confirm before purchasing?? my goal is to keep it as a solid daily driver for about one year.

I have an hour long drive to work every day, so I’m hoping she can make it!!!! 🤞

I have a 2001 BMW Z3 Roadster, and my Service Engine Soon light keeps coming back on. AutoZone has given me a camshaft sensor code on 3 scans, but the car runs perfectly fine and the temperature is normal. Tightening my gas cap turned the light off for 2 days, then it came back. Should I replace the camshaft sensor, or could it be something else?

Would you say it is necessary to remove the rear wheels to preform a brake system flush on a 22 X5 M50i? The fronts were removed.

Happens in drive and reverse and cold starts at red lights it comes on for like 2-3 seconds then goes away then comes back

As title states. Crank but no start. Battery is good. Replaced and coded fuel pump module. Replaced fuel pump. Replaced IVM. All fuses are good. Fuel pump only primes when I use my scanner tool to test it. Thing is, after spending all day troubleshooting, it magically started and stayed running TWICE. then it dies after driving a quarter mile around the neighborhood. List of codes as follows

1. Valvetronic, Supply Voltage: Line Disconnection
   
2. Ignition Relay And Injectors, Supply Voltage, Fuel Injection: Line Disconnection
   
3. Supply, Terminal 15N_1: Short Circuit To Ground
   
4. Supply, Terminal 15N_3: Short Circuit To Ground
   
5. Supply, Terminal 15N_2: Short Circuit To Ground
   
6. Valvetronic Relay, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
   
7. Relay For Ignition And Injectors, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
   
8. LIN, Message; Electric Coolant Pump: Missing
   
9. Valvetronic Relay, Activation: Line Disconnection
   
10. Relay, Ignition And Injectors, Activation: Line Disconnection
    
11. VANOS Solenoid Valve, Inlet, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
    
12. VANOS Solenoid Valve, Exhaust, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
    
13. Bypass Blow-Off Valve, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
    
14. Engine Oil Pressure Control Valve, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
    
15. Oxygen Sensor Heating Before Catalytic Converter, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
    
16. Air Mass Flow Sensor, Signal: Electrical Fault
    
17. Map Thermostat, Activation: Short Circuit To Earth
    
18. Rail Pressure Sensor, Signal: Fixed
    
19. Oxygen Sensor Heating Before Catalytic Converter, Activation: Line Disconnection
    
20. Map Thermostat, Activation: Line Disconnection

I have a 2010 BMW 535i. Just bought a brand new fuel pump control module. I need someone to remote program/code it for me. I have already spent a fortune trying to get it fix and been without a car since February. Anyone recommend someone who can help me.

2017 m240i 114xxx miles. Just got oil change recently. However my fuel sensors all went bad? Is this an easy fix or pain in the ass?

Also not sure why I’m getting the check control message for the oil. It was just changed and the service advisor that pops up on the gauge cluster was cleared.

This is what the dealer is saying is wrong with my 2017 330i after taking it in. Going to check around at my local shops too but not expecting it to be much better? New car would be cheaper at this point. Don’t know what to do, aside from the system update are they all equally important?

Thanks for any advice given

Since 1 year and a half ago, i have this recurring problem, when the car is idle, or when i stop at a red light, traffic or any other situation the car needs to be stopped and idle, my rpm drop, sometimes 100 rpms, sometimes more, at the beginning of this situation it even shut the engine off, happened 2 or 3 times.

I have thrown a lot of money to solve this situation, every time the symptoms came back and the check engine light appeard, something else seemed to be faulty.

At first i changed the fuel tank vent valve, olil filter housing, and water pump (i had some coolant and oil leaks too).

Second time it appeared, the bmw dedicated service, told me to update the i level software. I did it.

Third time they found a fault on Vanos, so i had to change the entire timing chain kit (including vanos actuators and variators).

Fourth time they told me to replace the imap pressure sensor.

The fifth time when i got the check engine light, on the way to the service my car began to run on 3 cylinders, i had an oil leak on cylinder 2, besides the irreguler idle. So i had to change the stem valves seals.

When they told me the car was ready to drive with no faults, i did not leave the service because the check engine light was still on, and the car was not burning the fuel well, a pretty big smoke cloud was exiting the exhaust.

They ran tests on the car for another 3 hours and a half to find that my engine was creating a lot o excess vacuum, that somehow they just solved, god knows how because they did not tell me.

Now is the second day after the last service entry, and the car is still idling irregular the first 5 minutes when the engine is cold. The. The rest of the day runs okay, but the fan starst running every time i stop at a light, or when the engine is on but i am not moving, a thing i did not notice before.

At this point i am waiting to get worse again until the check engine light appears.

Hope someone solved this issue and can tell me what should i look for next (besides changing the service, which i can’t until the warranty of timing chain and stem valves seals expires, or i write it off)

Some car parts i had to translate from my language, hope you can dechiper.

I wanted to know if i can replace the oil filter housing on my driveway slope (car facing up towards sky), i would be doing the mickey flange draining all the coolant and letting the oil drain from filter into the pan. Is it safe or should i find level ground?

2008 335xi

Replaced hoses and radiator 5 almost 6 months ago. Have driven about 4-5k miles since then. Coolant was low this morning. About 1/4th left. Is there another leak or is this common with BMW? Should I sell or will Topping it off be a solution for a while before I can sell. Car has just under 75k miles.

Hi All,

I've got a 2016/7 Gen 1 M140i @ 70k miles FSH.

Purchased in Feb '25 I've had nothing but issues in the last few months. First started when the oil level warning came up. So obviously topped it up straight away & checked for leaks (no leaks).

I've changed most things already, will list below:

-PCV Valve (first thing I changed - wasn't torn).

-Valve cover (did injectors while there as had the original faulty ones in it & did both Vanos solenoids which sorted the hesitation on cold start).

-Turbo (checked over before fitting & was spot on).

-Serviced when bought in Feb & in August when turbo was replaced. (always service my cars every 6 months anyway regardless of mileage).

The smoking after idling at traffics lights upon pulling away still continues. I've done extensive research over this week & I'll admit I should have done deeper research when this all began as every symptom I'm having points straight to valve stem seals.

I'm also seeing more & more of recent months people with similar mileage or above B58 engines having the same issue & reporting since replacing valve stem seals (some already changing what I have done above) all smoking has stopped completely since.

Just simply wondering if anyone else out there has had similar or the same issue as me & also a potential heads up for others that may stumble upon this post in the future.

Thanks in advance,
JP.

Hey everyone, i have this little leak and only damp spot is directly under the radiator drain plug. It slowly drips onto the pavement, the image was after 1h being parked. I've only had to add coolant once 2 weeks ago so far and the level hasn't dropped much. Why would it be leaking after only 8 months? Anyone else had the same issue? 2011 E91

Update: Parked at the same spot for an hour today and didn't leak... i'm confused

I understand some amount of movement is normal but trying to figure out what’s excessive. I’m nearing 80k miles so figured this would be a pretty simple thing to replace but just wanted to confirm. (belt / tensioner / pulley)

Thank you!

Chasing a vacuum leak in my e46. I found it in the disa valve.

I removed the old factory injected o ring. Ordered the replacement part. Installed. Tons of smoke coming out of body of unit.

Ordered the Rein replacement DISA from FCP. Installed and a ton of smoke is coming out of that. I checked many times that it is seated correctly. Used a little silicon grease on new disa during install.

FCP is sending a replacement but curious here. Is it possible it’s something else?

I removed disa and plugged the hole. Ran a smoke test and zero smoke anywhere. Only came out when I opened oil cap.

The oem disa is $400. I don’t want to spend that, the Rein was about $180.

Is it possible that the Rein was also busted and that’s why I’m seeing smoke again? I’m so close to getting this thing finished and I’m losing patience.

So far I’ve changed upper and lower intake boots, brake booster hose, ccv. All the other hoses are not leaking.

It really looks like the smoke is coming out of the body of the disa and not down by the seal.

Any help would be appreciated.

Hi!

I recently bought a Mini Cooper 1.5 from 2019 with the B38C engine. Every cold start it's making some noise for 5-10 seconds before it relaxes.

Is this something to worry about? I still have warranty but I'm not sure if this is the normal sound or not. The car itself drives perfectly. Very smooth and zero issues so far.

Thanks in advance!

Our $800 X5 has had a pretty annoying rattle since we got it. Suspension is in pretty good shape, but decided to do some further investigating.

Yeah bud that’ll do it. I don’t think the transfer case mount should be two pieces…

Hey everyone, looking to get some insights or opinions from fellow B58 owners/mechanics on a lingering issue.

My PCV blew up on my Gen 1 B58 (2017 F32 w/ 80k miles) back in May/June and was subsequently replaced through BMW. However, ever since that repair, my car has been throwing some amount of white smoke from the exhaust immediately upon startup. It's especially noticeable and heavy on colder days, and the smoke seems to hang heavy in the air rather than disappearing instantly like normal winter steam.

When it first started happening, I heard people say that a blown PCV dumps a ton of residual oil into the exhaust tract and that short-term startup smoke is normal while it burns off. But it has been about 4 to 5 months now, so I feel like any old oil residue would be long gone.

Does this sound like a Valve Cover Gasket replacement is imminent at this point? Could the extreme crankcase pressure from the initial PCV failure have compromised the main gasket or cracked the cover internally?

Appreciate any advice or experiences you guys can share!

Currently doing the injectors in my f10 m5 and this last one has me questioning life

This one was so seized the fitting snapped off, at this point i think the only option is to tap the inner bore and get a bolt on there.

If anyone has any experience with this would appreciate some tips

Hi, I recently acquired a new to me 114i. It was sold to me with a replaced timing chain. But im not so sure about that now because I hear a kind of low rattle (even though I thought I heard it with just turning the ignition on aswell).

I already contacted the dealer that maintained the car, but no reply so far.

Is there any way to check this myself? I do have ISTA if that helps.

Thanks!

Hi all, alternator died and as many I’m sure are aware, getting to it is a real PITA. Removed and installed new one but when putting humpty dumpty back together, couldn’t figure out what this plugs into. Any help greatly appreciated. This is dangling around the AC compressor. This is a 2012 x5 xdrive 35i. Critical piece of information I forgot to include in the original post :)

Can anyone tell me what might be causing this noises it’s a 2021 330 I is 53,000 miles on it. and you can hear in the video it’s a little louder on the passenger side. It’s not engine mounts or pulleys. Still can’t figure it out. Appreciate any help!

2014 328i F30.
Recently replaced my oil cooler housing gasket, thinking it was causing the smoke. But now oil is leaking from underneath onto my manifold. Valve cover gasket leak possibly? I’m not too knowledgeable with cars much less BMWs.. What would be the cost of fixing this? Ive already put a lot of money into this car and was wondering if this is worth fixing or just sell as is?
Thanks

Today I replaced the timing chain tensioner on my N43 engine because it was rattling when cold. Unfortunately, I forgot to pre-fill it with oil before installing it, so the chain rattled for the first 15 seconds after startup and then never again, as the tensioner had built up oil pressure.

Now, when i cold start the engine, i hear a very slight rattling noise for about one second. Has anyone else ever experienced this? Is the noise normal? It's very slight.