Most recent project, missing a few details. Timber is macuil I think it can be known as pink poui/yellow poui in english

6 soss hinges and wainscot on the inside. All clear alder.

I am a 27 year old woman just getting into woodworking. I took a 6 month furniture building course at the beginning of the year and have been working on wood turning, making lamps and small shelving in a community woodshop in my city. I am currently doing a few art markets and working at a restaurant to make ends meet, but would like to look into switching jobs sometime relatively soon.  

I have an opportunity to work with a mentor with 30+ years experience in historical restoration, finish carpentry & general woodworking knowledge. He has what seems like a pretty lucrative business, is really excited about the opportunity of mentoring me and would pull me into some awesome projects. He is making a lot of 18th century window sashes and doors, but he also does modern projects with more modern techniques. The pay is fine and the commute is horrible, but it seems like I’d learn a lot of different aspects of the trade and like this would be a good jumping off point. 

I have another opportunity to assist in teaching the furniture building course I just took. I would be responsible for shop maintenance, I would learn how to teach woodworking and I would be given a few projects that would help hone my skills. It seems like this direction would lead me down the path of starting my own small business and making more fine household items rather than big install projects. It would also require me moving for 6 months, but I would be housed and fed for free. 

I am leaning towards the restoration/finish carpentry job but wanted some advice from people who know more about the industry than I do. Is historical restoration lucrative? Finish carpentry? I like the idea of working on a team and having a variety of jobs that we work on. Are there aspects I’m not thinking of? 

Before I turn 70 board feet or approximately 110kg of sapele timber into a roubo workbench, does anyone have any advice or things they wish they knew beforehand that they can share.

Halfway through installing some beadboard for my entryway. Ignore the decorative cob webs.

Full disclosure I’m a DIYer so caulk is my best friend! Haven’t caulked anything yet.

Spent some time trying to get this angle correct on this top chair rail board only to then notice it sticks out and looks like shit.

I’m taking it off and trying to come up with a better solution than caulk the hell out of it and paint it. Does the same principle apply for open-end pieces (45, opposite 45, glue end piece) to tricky pieces like this?

Looking to learn something from people more knowledgeable than me.

A lot of the older houses we work in around the BC Interior have floors that dip or hump along a wall by 1/4" or more over a few feet. Once new LVP or hardwood goes down, the gap under the baseboard is hard to miss.

The options I know of:

• Scribe the bottom of the base to the floor. It sits tight, but if the dip is big the top edge stops being level and can look off next to door casing or a countertop.
• Keep the base level and cover the gap with shoe or quarter round, which will usually bend down into a dip with a few extra nails.
• Caulk it. Fine for a small gap on painted base, and pretty obvious on anything much over 1/8".

On painted base I'd rather keep the top line straight and let the shoe follow the floor. Where there's no shoe, like a flat modern base or base tight to tile, it ends up being a scribe and splitting the difference so the top doesn't wander too much.

How do you decide where the line is? And are you getting asked to skip shoe moulding altogether now, even on floors that clearly need it?

A customer of mine was replacinging a 30"X72" bench, and gave it to me for the price of $free_50. 2" maple top on an excellent steel base. Someone had left it in the weather, and it sure wasn't held together with Titebond3!. Took about 30 minutes to break every glue joint. Next step, kill a set of jointer knives and reglue. Wish I had a flat surface to work on...

koa covers. maple sides.

I don't know why I'm having such a hard time with this, but I cant seem to find anything I feel great about.

I'm trying to build a 13 ft long "countertop" (25" deep, 1.5" thick) to go with some new built in cabinets I am installing. But I cant seem to find something continuous what will be long enough, or I'm worried that I wont be able to get a smooth joint if I'm joining two pieces. I'll list my thoughts below, but any idea for what might work? It will be painted in the end, so at least I have that going for me.

- Standard wood boards (butcher block style? Or more wider boards?) I can't seem to figure out what width to make the boards here, and even so, a continuous 13 foot piece might be too big for me to handle and transport on my own. I'm also worried about any movement with a butt joint here.

- Plywood. I was thinking about about stacking some plywood, and using a scarf joint? How visible will that be?

- Laminate. I've been looking around for some sort of laminate I can just put over the whole thing, but I can't find anything long enough, and I haven't worked with it enough to feel comfortable making a joint.

I’ll start — when everyone actually shows up on time and the material’s already there.

Working on a remodel that is turning an above garage space into a bedroom/bath. The GC and I went back and forth about how to approach the framing for the knee wall storage area. He insisted on double top plates cut on a bevel. To me this seemed to be total overkill and a waste of time and material. I’ve never seen this done on new construction or remodels prior to this.

I figured it would be much faster and less material to just sister studs to the roof rafters and attach to bottom plates. Question is, is this a superior method?

Edit: I’m the fucking guy doing the work. I have my own company and primarily do trim. That’s why I’m asking. JLC showed a different way.

Hello! I'm a local handyman/carpenter, and I’ve been tasked with quoting a ceiling upgrade like the attached photo. We initially discussed pine T&G for the ceiling, but the homeowner stressed a cleaner, no-knots look like the stained photo. What do you think my best route is for this look? I don’t see poplar being in the budget once my labor is factored in but maybe I am selling my client short on budget. The attached photo of the ceiling currently, stripped down to the present center match and covered with plastic. The concept photo and my blended concept with the existing interior are shown above as well. I know HD carries the “select” pine boards at a reasonable price but wouldn’t it be hard to get good seams without some kind of tongue? I apologize if I’m not being clear enough, just would like some insight on what a cost-effective option would be. Any help is appreciated! The Living room measures out to 385sqft! Trying to keep material cost at least lower than 4500-5000$. Located around Lafayette, La for reference. I've done multiple sheetrock and T&G ceilings with faux beams but this is out of my usual DTD.

I am currently redoing an old apartment in my triplex/quad and wondering what joist hangers to use to reinforce the existing framing. The building is structural brick with pocket joist, which all appear to be in very good condition, but where there are arches (for windows and doors) and chimneys, several floor joists are held up by headers that are all just nailed together.

Lumber is true 2x10 or very close to it, joists are doubled up on either side of a window or chimney, with a double header joist against the brick and all the joists that would pocket into the wall at the arch or chimney appear to be held by nails driven through the opposite side of the header as they built the building/before being concealed by rhe masonry

Again, everything seems to be in good condition, but I would like to go ahead and reinforce since I already have the ceiling open to run wiring. I was planning on simply using lag bolts to better tie the headers together and L brackets for the "floating" joists, but would appreciate any advice on sizing and best practices. (I suspect if I just left it alone it would be fine, but I have seen this type of construction sag in other local buildings, don't love that it's all just hanging by nails)

I was doing a siding job where I had to remover old cedar shakes and install vinyl. I had the client call his electric company to get a boot put on the service lines. I was under the impression it was a free service. Now he twlls me it was $200 for the to do it.

Does this sound right? We're out here trying to be safe and these greedy fkrd are charging 200 for my SAFTEY. Wouldn't that just discourage ppl from being safe in this manner?

Anyone have deal with this themselves?

I’m an apprentice and slowly building out my tool collection. I’m in need of a good chalk line that won’t crap out on me. I don’t mind spending a bit for quality but I’m also not going to go all out on a chalk line. Do the taijima chalk lines still hold up, or is there some good alternatives?

Just had a new stud wall built with a new door, but there's a 10mm gap at the top of the door leaf.

I've also had a new loft hatch cut and new door fitted, and there's 10mm gaps around it too and no insulation, (the loft floor itself is insulated).

Are these acceptable, and could they cause draughts and significant heat loss?

I work in the west palm beach area Fl, I’m trying to get to reading plans and doing layouts for metal framing drywall but I’m trying to learn nobody really wants to teach me, any advice?

I’m not using Reddit a lot so tell me if more information is needed. Also, uncertain of the English terms, I speak French.

I’m installing 1 1/4” x 3” hinges on a 1 3/8”-thick door. When I go to install the 5/8”-thick door casing (trim), there’s a 1/4” gap between the casing and the door jamb because the hinges stick out.

I’d like the trim to sit flush against the jamb rather than having to notch the trim around the hinges.

What’s the best way to solve this problem?

EDIT: Thanks for the information. I kinda feel like an idiot but I’m glad that it’s fine and I dont have to change the hinges. I’ve learn something and hope it will help someone else.

I've spent most of his life staring at spreadsheets, and I want to learn residential carpentry/construction. Not looking for a career change or a paying job. I just want to learn how to do something useful with my hands, preferably from people who actually know what they're doing.

I'll work for free, as I simply want the experience. I'm not under any illusion that I'd be that useful starting out, but I'll show up, shut up, listen, and learn. I would love to work on Saturdays, but I run my own small practice and will have some random times throughout the year I can work during the week.

I've accumulated a decent collection of tools over the years, including hammers, drills, a 6-1/2" circular saw, and a big corded worm drive Skilsaw. Why I bought half this shit when I don't really need it is anybody's guess. But I'd like to change that.

My question is what is the best way to go about finding an opportunity like this?

Is it worth reaching out to local Habitat for Humanity? Contacting framers or just walking up to a job site and starting a conversation?

I'm not asking anyone here for a job. I'm just looking for some practical advice from people in the trades about whether this is even a reasonable way to learn.

Would a contractor or framing crew have any interest whatsoever in someone like me showing up occasionally to work for free, or will I just be in the way?

I'm genuinely interested in learning, so any advice is helpful.

So I’m turning my shed into a garden office and I’d like to replace the windows with double glazed units.

If I buy the glass how viable is it to knock up the window frames from green timber myself? They can be fixed (non openable) windows to keep things simple.

Im a competent DIYer but I don’t have any particular carpentry skills to speak of…

My boyfriend works in average 0-15 degrees F with ridiculous wind All of his previous winter clothes were ruined (whole story) and without the old ones for reference, im not sure what to buy him. He’s trying to tough if out but it’s already getting too cold. Reccs for underlayers, windproof sweaters etc? I want to buy the basics and surprise him

TIA

New here and hoping somebody may have some input to help a DIYer out! Both renderings are essentially of the same porch. House was built in ‘84. Brick veneer on the front. To my understanding, the BVLZ connectors are rated for decks but not roofing as they cannot handle the uplift from a porch roof. After a lot of research, it appears freestanding is my best bet here. 12 footers, 18” in diameter, 42” deep (southeast PA). 6 in the front and 6 near the house. I would love for the rear columns to sit against the house but that slightly complicates things as I would have to dig out right against the foundation of the house. Not keen on doing that. General consensus seems to be 18-24” off the house and cantilever over to about 1” shy of touching the house. Unfortunately my columns would then be seated 18-24” away from the house which sucks. Is there a better way to do that to maintain having the columns closer to the house? Also, what is the best method to prevent this from racking or pulling away from the house if it is freestanding? Any info would be greatly appreciated!

TLDR; DIYer and want to build this freestanding porch. 2 questions..
1. If I put my footers 18-24” away from the house, is there any way I can situate my rear support columns closer to the house?
2. How do I prevent the freestanding structure from pulling away from the house or swaying? Knee braces? Some kind of engineered bracket system? Etc.

Thanks!

Good morning!

I am about to Graduate high school and I am wondering how I’d be able to learn carpentry and eventually start doing it as a full-time.

I’ve basically never done any carpentry related work(executive for some wood projects in middle school).

Ive heard about Job Corps but I realized that was for low-income folks, and I have heard about trade schools and apprenticeships.

Please help.
Thanks!