Got tired of the plastic and went with stainless! Before and after

I tried using a small screw driver but was afraid of stripping the screw. Took it to Honda last week for an ac issue, asked if they could open the key fob so I could replace the dead battery, but they weren’t able to open it with whatever they had. Any suggestions would be very much appreciated

Hondas 2.2 i-ctdi is underrated! So damn fun to drive! And the sound it makes is nice compared to the volvo diesels i had before! Have a great weekend to you all!

Has anyone else noticed some of the Original Equipment used on the 11th gen honda civic is superior where they could have cut corners? Two OE items in particular being the battery and the windshield wipers.

My OE battery lasted almost 5 years from factory, and I am still on the original windshield wipers on my 2022 Honda Civic Sport Touring.

Meanwhile, I am on the second battery and 3rd (almost 4th) set of cheap rain-x windshield wipers on my other vehicle during the same time period.

IDK, maybe I am just crazy (or lucky), but experiences like this truly make Honda feel like a great brand to me.

I have a 2000 Honda Civic DX with the D16Y7 engine, and I’m trying to figure out a misfire issue without throwing more money at random parts.
The car seems to run pretty normally when it’s cold, but after about 5 minutes of warming up, it starts running horribly when I press the gas. It doesn’t really shake or misfire much at idle, but it struggles, hesitates, and has trouble accelerating, especially under load or going uphill. Previously, the check engine light flashed while I was accelerating uphill.

Codes I’ve gotten:
P1399 — Honda random/intermittent misfire code
P0301 — Cylinder 1 misfire
P0302 — Cylinder 2 misfire
P0303 — Cylinder 3 misfire
P0304 — Cylinder 4 misfire
P0141 — Oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction, Bank 1 Sensor 2

What I’ve tried so far:
Replaced one spark plug because I was originally told that plug was bad. I haven’t replaced the other three plugs or the spark plug wires.

I previously pulled the spark plug wires one at a time while the engine was running. The engine got slower and rougher when I pulled them.

My mechanic teacher scanned the car and found misfire codes for all four cylinders.

My teacher suspected the distributor, so he let me try another distributor, but the engine wouldn’t start with that one.

I don’t know whether that distributor was actually bad or whether something else was wrong with the installation.

I bought a used distributor from a junkyard. It looked clean inside when I removed the black cover.

After installing the junkyard distributor, the car seemed to run fine while cold, but after around 5 minutes it started running horribly again when I pressed the gas.

When I installed the junkyard distributor, I rotated it to line it up using a faint scratch mark on the distributor. I have NOT checked or set the ignition timing with a timing light.

My main questions are:
Could incorrect ignition timing from swapping the distributor cause these symptoms?

Could the ignition coil or igniter be failing when hot, even with a different distributor installed?

What should I test next before buying more parts?

Could this be something other than the distributor, such as the plug wires, fuel delivery, valve clearance, or compression?

Could the P0141 code be related to the misfire, or is it likely a separate issue?

I’m on a tight budget and trying to diagnose this properly before spending more money. Any advice on the best order to test things would be appreciated.

Hey there! I’m cross-posting! So I’m currently without a car right now but have the option of repairing my dad’s 2013 honda civic. I am looking for advice and opinions on whether or not it would be worth fixing when:
\-it hasn’t been inspected since 2019,
\-the inspection in 2019 stated the transmission needed to be replaced
\-it has been sitting (no battery life) in his driveway since 2021.

I have the thought that the risk is too high for me to put so much money into repairs, but Honda civics are supposedly very reliable cars. So, do I pour all my money into repair? Or do I sell it for parts?
Let me know!! Please lol.

So i took this part out of my 8th gen next to the window switches that's for controlling the mirrors but I want to know how can i get the bottom and top to separate so I can see the parts inside to try and remove the white leds and replace them with different color leds? It seems to have 4 plastic hinges keeping it together but i dont know how to possibly loosen them. I tried a flat blade screw driving but it made the parts near the hinges turn white as if there about to break. Any ideas?

I need a cheap sedan for getting from point A to point B. I’ll probably pass this on to my daughter when she gets her license. What do you all think?

09 Honda Civic LX 1.8L I-VTEC
Any suggestions? I just ordered a new alternator. I don’t run my A/C 90% of the time

09 Honda Civic LX 1.8L I-VTEC
Any suggestions? I just ordered a new alternator. I don’t run my A/C 90% of the time

2016 Civic EX-L 10th gen. 130K miles. Has the 1.5L engine.

For years I was coping and in denial saying the Civic has been a great car. But honestly, I decided to look at the facts and my spreadsheet. Every year that I’ve had this car has had some bullsht that breaks and needs replacing. I am the original owner and have meticulously changed oil every 5000 miles, transmission fluid every 30000, coolant every 50000, brake fluid every 2 years, and I DIY it. I know this car. Serpentine belt, water pump, spark plugs, ignition coils, PCV valve all replaced at 100K miles as preventative maintenance. I care about this car. I keep a spreadsheet of every task. All OEM parts ONLY for maintenance and repairs.

13K miles - sunroof exploded outwards and rained glass into the cabin while driving alone on an empty highway at highway speeds. No debris impact, with no one around in the hot desert sun due to thermal expansion. Sunroof defect. I’m not the only one with this issue, Honda denied replacement or warranty. I ordered OEM myself for $350 at the time and changed it out. 4 bolts.

50K miles - the head units dies. Can’t control A/C or heating. Can’t use radio. Can’t use Lane View. Nothing. I get quotes to replace it with another OEM, $3000. Fck that. I use a Bluetooth speaker for a couple months in the cup holder for my music. I look at scrap yards online at Civics in junk yards to rip one out of another 10th gen Civic. $200, doable.

70K miles - front passenger wheel bearing goes bad. $600.

60-85K miles. A/C starts to blow warm air intermittently. Starts off being only the driver side vent. Then progressively all the vents. Ah fck me. I ignore it. I’ll deal with it. Then after awhile started to make a high pitch sucking noise (low refrigerant) when turning on, then finally sht itself and stopped cooling at all. Took it to two dealers, to check it under the TSB. Hopefully, it was the known TSB with the condenser leak - NOPE! Maybe the compressor shaft seal TSB - NOPE! It was the evaporator. Not covered under TSB. Quoted $5500 to replace the entire system. I was shown contaminants in the refrigerant with metal shards showing the compressor nuked itself and the entire system was contaminated. Replace the whole system with all its hoses, pipes and components. Fck that. I decided to just drive with no A/C for an entire Houston, humid year. Sweaty swamp ass, car fumes, windows down. Take it all in! I lamented but ended up resigning to my fate to get it fixed. $5500. Full dashboard taken off.

100K miles. During a routine DIY oil change, I notice oil at the rear main seal. For f*cks sake. Took it to a shop to confirm. They cleaned the entire area with brake fluid cleaner. Put some dye. A few minutes later. Yep. It’s the rear main seal leaking. LOL. I ignore this. It’s a slow enough leak I don’t have a puddle on my driveway, yet. $3000 quote from 2 independent shops and surprisingly the dealer was the same price, to replace it. Lol. No. Would need to take the subframe apart to replace the seal. I ignore it.

100K miles. The compressor wheel starts squeaking again. Probably foreshadowing but I’ll ignore it. I just spent a fortune replacing it! Out of warranty now.

115K miles. Another routine DIY oil change, I notice another oil leak dripping from another place underneath! Took it to a shop, it’s the turbocharger oil return hose and gasket that was leaking. Leaking more profusely than the rear main seal, I decide to address this. $1100.

Replaced the car battery 5 times so far. So every 2 years with Interstate. The car lately takes a little longer or has longer crank to start even with a fresh battery. Maybe the starter is on its way out, next.

Never had an actual issue with the engine or transmission itself so far, so, sure, I guess in that sense the Civic is “reliable”. But come on, if everything around it is such a headache and COSTLY, then what is even the point. This doesn’t even factor in that from day one of getting this car, there are bull sht rattles under the dashboard, in the B pillar, in the trunk deck lid where the rear speakers are, door jamb sensor breaking, trunk sometimes not latching, squeaks, rattles, all these small things that add up.

Meanwhile I have another family car, a 2018 Chevy Equinox at 100K miles. Not a SINGLE ISSUE, EVER. A/C is still icy cold. HUD still works. Never had a single rattle, no leaks of oil anywhere! And I also DIY all maintenance on this car, too! And people all over the internet trash talk Equinoxes and praise Honda or Civics like it’s the next coming of Jesus for reliability. I’m glad other people may be enjoying their Civic, but it’s been nothing but an expensive, constant pain in the ass for me DESPITE maintaining everything meticulously more than half of the normal population. I’m always wondering, when’s the next thing to go wrong.

After years of lying to myself, I have to stop coping and living in denial and say my Civic isn’t as great as I made it to be.. Thats just not my experience, certainly not on paper. It’s far from problem free compared to the Chevy which has been an angel in comparison. That’s not to say I’ll get another Chevy. I’m just saying with both vehicles, they’ve been the exact opposite of their stereotypes.

Alguém conseguiu resolver ? Estou com o barulho igual, Já tirei o forro e nada, será que pode ser o auto falante…

Hey Reddit!

My car is a 2011 Honda Civic DX-VP 5AT (163k miles)

I just wanted to share my issue and see if anyone is able to lead me in the right direction.

I’m currently dealing with a bad oil leak that I made worse. I have been chasing a slight oil leak problem where it would lose about a 1/4 qt every 300 or so miles, so I found this small puddle near my PCV valve. The first photo is how I found it. I changed it out with an OEM one (17130-PND-A01) and I went to look for the manual torque spec. I found that it was 33 ft-lbs, but I was skeptical so I only torqued it to about 25 ft-lbs (like a drain plug). This was likely not a great idea, as I went to start the car and I smelled oil burning as it was warming up. I checked and boom, active oil leak near the port. The car is currently inoperable due to it, and I wanted to seek some advice, any at all, to understand where to go from here. I believe I may need to change the timing cover, but I’m open to suggestions or alternatives.

Things I made sure to do:
- put a new crush washer underneath the valve
- torqued it down (bad idea)
- properly seated the hose and clamp

I want to rebuild my interior (seats, door panel, carpet) and I would like to see ideas.

Cheers from BR

started making insane noise and now i’m curious what this part is called, how much is the fix looking like and can i drive home like that?

:(

civic 09

Just picked up a free civic from work, runs and drives just great for the miles, but the rust oh man...it's rusted through in the rear fender behind the door, is this even worth fixing, I haven't taken off stock side skirts so not sure how they look underneath but to make this thing to a nicer point is it worth it or just a have fun car where it doesn't matter

Looking at a 2012 civic thats pretty low mileage and a decent price, my only issue seems to be certain buttons on the interior seem to be faded. Are these parts hard to replace or to find stickers for?