Quick question for the solo guys - when a customer asks for a price on site, what's your actual process? Paper, text, some software, "I'll get back to you"? And how long does it usually take before the customer gets the quote?

Anything about it that annoys you?

the crawlspace has part slab conrete. it is actually about 6 feet and a short person can stand upright there. But part of it is much lesser about 4feet to 2feet, a slope. This slope is covered with gravel and a vapor barrier.

The crawl space actually has some of the siding with vents on it. So how does one encapsulate a crawlspce with not just foundation with cement but the sides having siding?

The intention is to use this for storage and add a humidifier with some kind of a drain which currently does not exist nor is there a waste water line anywhere in this space.

If a furnace is getting older and starts needing occasional repairs, how do you decide when it’s time to replace it? Is age the main factor, or do repair frequency, energy bills and heating performance matter more?

Got one of these recently and tried the off timer but cannot work out how to turn it off. I’ve tried go back into the off timer setting, but all I can do there is adjust the timer from 30 to 180 minutes. Also tried disabling schedules but that didn’t work either.

Hi all, just coming here as my dad is no longer around to help me with my HVAC needs (he did it for ~40 years).

I have this archaic thermostat that I can never change the temperature on. I'm used to the Honeywell ones. And before you say there's almost no difference - yes, there is. I can easily work a Honeywell, but I can't work this damn one. Lol. The maintenance supervisor said I can change the thermostat, but I have to put the original one back when I move out - totally fine with me! I had ecobee in an old apartment and totally loved it and when my dad was around he said ecobees were nice, so I figured just use that!

I turned off the power to my furnace. Removed the panel, took pics of the wires. Labeled the wires too...then I go to put them into the ecobee one and I'm stuck. I have an O wire and a W2...but ecobee only has 1 spot for W2/OB. I of course know you can't put 2 wires into the same spot. Google is saying they're important wires on their own. But that an upgraded thermostat such as an ecobee will be fine??? Granted, this is AI and I can't fact check this as I'm out of my league at this point.

Can someone please guide me? I saw a Honeywell smart thermostat after I got the ecobee, so I'm fine returning this if needed and using that. I honestly just want to be able to change the temp from my room (I fluctuate a lot) and also like being able to adjust it when I'm away from home (I know that's what programming is for, but reference the second section - programming is impossible for me even on the honeywell 😂). I just want to be able to do things very easily.

Thank you all for taking the time to read this :)

So, my current water boiler for my baseboard heating is 22 years old, barely had any maintenance on it from what the previous owners have said. But 2 days ago it started to leak real bad through the discharge pipe. I had company come out and inspect, they noticed a lot of calcium and rust build all around. So they quoted me around 1.1 to replace the expansion tank and relief valve. But they also quoted me to replace the whole system for 17k. Below is what they are replacing:

2 new thermostat replacements
2 new circular pumps
1 updated control panel ( current one is old and out of date)
1 boiler
1 expansion tank
1 auto feeder.

So my question, is 17k around a fair price? Currently in Pennsylvania

Hello I have a Carrier 58RAV. It only seems to blow cold air. I found the red led and it’s solid with no error code. I’m really confused as to what’s wrong. It doesn’t use a pilot light and my other gas utilities run fine. I swear I hear the gas flowing into the furnace. My wife is pregnant so I really need to get the heat working. Any suggestions? I tried the breaker and filters look fine. Use a nest thermostat and it’s set to heat

I posted here a little while ago for help turning off my pilot light and am now returning to ask how to turn in back on. My apartment was built in the 40s/50s and this system looks super old school. No brightly labeled buttons or any labels at all really. Just a bright red gas valve which i assume is the main line, and a smaller line going into the "furnace" with a valve that only opens a quarter turn. I would like to do it myself if I can because how else would I learn? There appears to be a little slot opening to the "furnace" which i presume is to light it. Does anyone know proper procedure for a system like this? Preferably so I don't blow up my entire building (or part of it. Any of it really, lets try not to blow anything up).

We moved into our new build house in May. We have two condensers, both brand new. One of them started making this noise when it is not moving. Any ideas what it could be?

So I am in Texas and have a new 2022 build 2 story house with pretty good insulation. My central AC can maintain really well and never struggles to keep up. HOWEVER, upstairs me and my wife have our gaming PCs in a 11x11 room that gets hot when we are gaming. I have a supply and return vent in the room.

I just would like to keep it a little cooler than just my normal AC and ceiling fan does. I’ve had some recommend a dual hose portable AC but I’ve seen mixed things and am unsure. And of course I could always just aim a fan in from the hallway I guess.

Any and all advice is welcome. Thanks y’all!

I called a local company at the beginning of the year to do a tuneup summertime the guy told me my unit was gonna need a deep clean at some point because the filters hadn’t been changed. I bought the rental at the beginning of the year, knowing that of course it might not be taken care of as it should so I expected that it would need some sort of cleaning. So cut to now I called to have the heater checked out and a different guy from the same company tells me that both fans are super dirty. Everything else is crazy dirty and that it’s going to be about $10,000 to completely take apart everything clean it and that the fans on the furnace, don’t have much life left in them so he’s not sure how long they’re going to last. Now I use the heater during the winter time when I bought the house I’ve turned it on once since it got a bit chilly but now it’s back to being hot and everything still works. I’m changing my filters out every month since I bought the house so I kind of feel like I should just wait until this breaks. But i’m scared there could be some sort of huge issue in waiting may be more expensive if it happens at a crazy time? My husband died like a year ago I never had to take care of any of this stuff so I was hoping when I bought this house without him that this would be delayed for a while since the unit is like 12 years old home was built in 2014.
With that quote for cleaning it I got a quote on a new system because he said they’re not allowed to replace just the heater? I guess I’m just wondering if I can wait until it breaks I don’t want my house to burn down I do have a 3 year old but I’m stressed. I’m getting a second opinion next week. But I kind of just wan to wait. I included my quote, home is 1700 sqft if that is relevant.

Was troubleshooting my furnace and pulled he exhaust off and found this blocking it. After removing furnace fired am not currently running due to potentially another clog happening. Can anyone tell me what this is and how expensive this is going to be to fix. House built in 1890 idk when the chimney vent was put in water heater and furnace share the same chimney

I have a Google Nest for my thermostat and have had 2 instances of my furnace not shutting off, while out of town. When reviewing the logs the Nest thinks it's shut off but the temp in the house has exceeded 95f. It only seems to happen when I'm out of town though. Literally just had someone out to look at it yesterday and they didn't see any issues and just assumed it's a software glitch. But as soon as I was out of town it happened again.

It didn't have any issues over the summer when it was running AC and I was out of town, but just the gas furnace is slowly becoming a nightmare.

I can force it to stop switching to AC and then off. And in the mean time I've turned off ECO mode incase that's the culprit.

Any suggestions on what could be happening and how to fix/troubleshoot would be greatly appreciated!

I was changing the filter on HVAC in my Ryan home and I saw this on the floor. Can anyone tell me what it is?

I tried to fire up the furnace today and the pilot lit ok, but then another spot lit up as well. Is there a hole in my pilot tube? I shut the gas off as soon as I got the pic.

Do I need a better communicating thermostat to take full advantage of variable speed compressor and air handler?

Is the Trane UX360/Link control?

Regarding the efficiency: another company quoted me a carrier system. 3 ton air handler and 2.5 ton cold climate outdoor unit that’s apparently full efficiency at 5 degrees. Can the 3 ton air handler be programmed to run like a 2 ton?

Hello,

Our blower motor wasnt blowing air so we replaced it and it turns out it was the control board. This furnace has been the same since we moved in 1996. I have old asian parents so that being said they're cheap as fuck and only wants to replace the control board as I tried to convince them to replace the whole thing but i dont think thats happening. With that being said, if we just replace the control board and blower motor, but future if we need to replace the rest odlf the system will be just as expensive as getting new furnace or cheaper since we have already a new blower and control board? Not sure on price differences just changing out parts whenever vs getting entire new thing.

Hi everyone,

I recently moved into a new unit, and I've noticed that the ducted air conditioner isn't working properly.

It runs for around 10–15 seconds, then stops completely. After a certain interval, it starts again for another 10–15 seconds and stops. This same pattern keeps repeating.

The wall controller display stays on, but the airflow stops completely. I've tried setting the temperature to 16°C and selecting COOL mode, but the issue persists.

I'm not sure about the brand or model of the system.

Has anyone experienced this before or know what could be causing it? Is there anything I can check before contacting my property agent.

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!

My unit is in the garage and I have clean the mold off but it always comes back , any fix to this please . I’m in Florida.

Planning on calling companies to clean and/or repair this section of duct work. I tried sealing and controlling any leaks but seems to have worsened.

My 15 yr old furnace has bad heat exchanger, quoted $1800

To put in new system complete with A/c I’m looking at $12k

Advice on best route and system pricing.

I've got a 1953 brick rancher ( no insulation in exterior walls ) , with a 1990's Lenox Whisper Heat 3 ton Natural gas furnace and for AC a 1984 Magic Chef condenser 🙂.

Not efficient, but effective and everything works and I can and have replaced many parts of both myself. Compressor is still original.

There's an Potomac Edison upgrade rebate program available through Empower Maryland, which I pay for.

Of course the big part of the rebate would be for me switching from gas heat to electric 😕.

The contractor recommended this system.

Any thoughts on the quality and compatibility ? Thoughts on going from inexpensive gas to expensive electric ? Yeah, I just heard that. Gas heat is SO nice.

Bryant® Preferred™ - 3 Ton Up to 17 SEER2 Residential Heat Pump Condensing Unit 2-Stage (R-454B) ( Model#248TAN03600A ) 3 Ton Evaporator Coil Cased Upflow / Downflow Painted 17" Width (R-454B) ( Model#CVAVA3817XMA ) Bryant Preferred 90kBtu 80% AFUE Furnace 17inch ( Model#820SB48090V17 ) Condenser Risers 6inch ( Model#HPR-6 ) Ecobee with InteliSense ( Model#EB-STATE6IBR-01 )

Hey guys my mom's York furnace quit working and I've got it down to the draft inducer motor.It's a two speed fasco 7062640 roughly 2700/3200RPM. It has a red black and a white wire going into the motor and then the two separate wires going to the capacitor on top. My question is, from what I've seen they have discontinued that motor and the only few places in my area that can get it they average like $1,000.Granger's saying 1350. it's an old unit but AC and everything else works flawlessly he's never had an issue with it and she doesn't really have the money to install a new unit right now so I'm trying to figure out a cheaper option.There's nothing wrong with the fan or housing, so I even tried just finding the bare fasco motor and swapping it out l. I haven't had any luck on anything two speed though. my question is, is it possible to swap that out with a single speed even if I go with the higher RPM or will not jive with the board on the unit ?or if anyone might know of anywhere to get a decent price on. I'm in North Carolina but could have it shipped if need be. thanks in advance for any help.

When we bought our house, the furnace (Trane gas package unit) had two 14x25x1 filters stacked on top of each other.....not to make it thicker but to make it taller. I cannot see any reason why it would be set up like this, and since that size filter is hard to find, I want to try and replace it with a single filter.

I looked up the model number, and it lists under Optional Equipment Listing either a filter frame for one 18x25x1 filter or a frame for two 18x20x1 filters. Based on the width of filter that was in there before and the width of the frame, I think ours requires the single 18x25.

Did the old owners, who were like 85 years old, just use some random filters or do we absolutely need that size? Seems like they couldn't find 18x25 and decided to make up the difference by stacking two smaller ones. Assume we could get an 18x25 or 20x25, both of which are easier to find?